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Getting Twisted: Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

May 14, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Twisted Sisters in Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride — Throughout our nine-day, four-state, 4,200-mile journey, Eric always had a smile on his face (although it was sometimes hidden behind a balaclava). (Photos by the author)

Months before the Great North American Eclipse of 2024, which would follow a 124-mile-wide “path of totality” from Texas to Maine on April 8, my friend Eric Birns found the perfect place to experience several minutes of darkness within the path: Ingram, Texas, the closest location to our home in Ventura, California.

Not only would Ingram be in the path of totality, it’s also located in the heart of Texas Hill Country. Riding the renown Twisted Sisters – Ranch-to-Market Roads 335, 336, and 337 – has been on my moto bucket list for years, so we hatched a plan.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

First, we’d borrow a couple of Grand American Touring bikes from Harley-Davidson. Second, we’d load them up and spend two long days riding 1,400 miles from Ventura to San Antonio (hotels within the path of totality were expensive and booked far in advance). Third, we’d position ourselves in Ingram on the morning of Monday, April 8, allowing us plenty of time to settle in before the eclipse was predicted to begin at 12:14 p.m. (totality would start around 1:34 and last 4 minutes, 27 seconds). And fourth, after the eclipse, we’d spend the rest of the week enjoying some scenic riding (“The Great Wide Open,” our report about riding through the Big Bend area of Texas, was published in the March issue).

Getting There | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

If you must log back-to-back 700-mile days on major highways, Harley’s Road Glide and Street Glide are good choices. They are comfortable, offer good wind protection, deliver generous torque from their throbbing V-Twins, hold plenty of gear (boosted with optional Tour Paks), and have top-notch infotainment systems.

Many motorcyclists hate interstates, but they can’t be beat for efficiency. We spent most of the first day crossing the deserts of California and Arizona on Interstate 10. For a little variety, east of Phoenix we hopped on U.S. Route 60, winding our way through Devil’s Canyon in the Superstition Mountains and passing through the mining towns of Superior and Globe.

We crossed into New Mexico at sunset and crashed hard in a cheap motel in Lordsburg. After waking up dark and early to find frost on our seats, we put on our warmest layers and wind-blocking rainsuits to fight the 10-degree wind chill as we continued east on I-10. We were cold and numb when the sun finally began to rise above the horizon in front of us, blindingly bright but not yet warm. After two hours of freezing our tails off, we thawed out in a Cracker Barrel while filling our bellies with hot coffee and a gravy-slathered breakfast.

The rest of the day was an uneventful “eastbound and down” cruise to San Antonio, where we checked into a Motel 6 and walked to the nearest bar for a celebratory beer.

Elusive Eclipse | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

On Monday morning, we rode an hour north on I-10, passing several brightly lit DOT signs that warned “NO STOPPING ON HIGHWAY TO VIEW ECLIPSE.” Soon after exiting at Kerrville, we started seeing homemade signs posted in yards and driveways offering parking spaces for $20 and up. We followed Main Street through town to neighboring Ingram. There was an eclipse festival near the high school, but parking cost $60.

We pulled into a small shopping plaza called The Dam Center, so named because it’s across the street from Ingram Dam, a low, wide concrete barrier on the Guadalupe River. We paid $10 each to park, which gave us access to a bathroom at Domino’s Pizza and food at the Que-Zeen BBQ trailer. Alas, the PowerHour Church and Dam Tattoo were closed, so redemption and indelible souvenirs would have to wait.

As the eclipse approached, the parking lot filled and a crowd gathered atop Ingram Dam. There was a party atmosphere, with families grilling, kids playing, and teenagers riding innertubes down the dam’s short spillway.

Cloudy conditions meant that we got only peekaboo views of the sun using disposable eclipse glasses like what you wear for a 3D movie. As the partial eclipse progressed, the sky grew progressively darker, as if a storm was brewing.

When the eclipse became total – when the moon blocked out the sun’s direct light and only its corona was visible around the moon’s perimeter – it was as if the Spirit in the Sky immediately turned down a dimmer switch. It wasn’t totally dark, more like a spooky twilight, but dark enough for streetlights to come on.

The clouds robbed us of an unobstructed view of the eclipse, but it was a surreal experience nonetheless. Birds stopped chirping, and the sky took on a strange appearance, what one website described as a “360-degree sunset.”

All too quickly, the totality ended, like someone flipping on the lights at a party. Everyone was bummed it was over, and after the long lead up, the comedown was hard and fast. As folks packed up and headed home, we geared up and hit the road.

Twisted Sisters | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

We rode west on State Route 39, a rolling ride among shade trees alongside the Guadalupe River and then its South Fork. The farther we rode, the more rural the area became, family homes giving way to sprawling ranches. After 25 miles, we turned south on Ranch-to-Market (RM) 187, a gently curving road that goes past the Lost Maples State Natural Area, which offers camping, hiking, and fishing.

At the Lost Maples Country Store in Vanderpool, we turned west on RM 337, our introduction to one of the famous Twisted Sisters. RM 337, which stretches across Bandera and Real counties, is the longest of the three sisters at 56 miles, from Medina in the east to Camp Wood in the west.

The Hill Country gets its name from lumpy terrain made of limestone and granite. Much of the topography includes exposed rock, narrow clefts, and features such as springs, caves, and sinkholes where water has eroded soluble rock. Most of the land is privately owned, and it is the Ranch-to-Market roads carved into the craggy landscape that make the area such a popular destination for motorcyclists.

Riding west on RM 337, Eric and I rumbled up and over a ridgeline and wound through several tight, narrow canyons, crossing into Real County, known as the “Swiss Alps of Texas.” With unforgiving rock walls on one side and guard rails on the other, riders need to be on top of their game.

See all of Rider‘s Texas touring stories here.

We soon descended into the Frio River valley, where the land flattens out. We pulled into Leakey, a small town of 315 residents that’s the county seat. Motorcyclists are welcomed with open arms in Leakey, which has gas, food, and lodging. Just west of town on RM 337 is the Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop and Bent Rim Grill, a gathering place that claims to be the “Official Headquarters for the Three Twisted Sisters” and sells a wide variety of Twisted Sisters merchandise.

We topped off our tanks in Leakey and rode north on U.S. Route 83 a short way before veering left on RM 336. Just past a self-storage place is The Hog Pen on 336 BBQ, another motorcycle-friendly spot. We continued north along the West Frio River, and soon the road ascended and followed several narrow ridgelines. Looking at a topographical map of this area (or more likely, Terrain view on Google Maps), the land has a wrinkled appearance, like the folds and contours of the human brain. Weaving into and out of those crevasses and crannies is RM 336, making it ideal for motorcyclists who love curves.

After about 12 miles, RM 336 flattens out on a broad plateau and the curves open up, giving riders a reprieve. A few miles later, the road ends at State Route 41. We turned west and cruised for 14 mostly straight miles to the northern terminus of RM 335, the third Twisted Sister.

See all of Rider‘s South touring stories.

We were ready for more curves, and soon enough we dropped into the brain terrain like we’d enjoyed on RM 336. The tight bends don’t last, though, as RM 335 soon begins to follow the gradually curving course of Hackberry Creek. There were still plenty of ups and downs to keep us entertained, and we enjoyed having the road to ourselves while admiring the rugged scenery on a bluebird spring day.

After nearly 30 miles, RM 335 ends at the town of Barksdale. We rode a few miles south to Camp Wood and then turned east on RM 337, which we rode for its entire length to Medina. On its western end, RM 337 is characterized by wide, graceful curves and a roller coaster of hillcrests.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

East of Leakey, we repeated part of RM 337 in reverse, back to the Lost Maples Country Store. From there, we rode south on RM 187 for a mile and then continued east for the final leg of RM 337, a fast and fun romp through big sweepers and over several rocky ridges to Medina. After turning south on State Route 16, we soon arrived in Bandera, a cool little town known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World.”

Riding the Twisted Sisters route in a clockwise manner, from Medina to Camp Wood, up to State Route 41, and back down to Leakey, is about 140 miles and can be done in a few hours. But that just scratches the surface of what’s on tap in Texas Hill Country, which covers 31,000 square miles in 18 counties.

Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride Resources

Texas Tourism
Kerrville/Kerr County, TX
Frio Canyon, TX (Leakey, Concan, and Rio Frio)
Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop & Bent Rim Grill (Leakey)
Real County, TX (Leakey and Camp Wood)
Bandera, TX

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Iron Range Ramble: Northern Minnesota Motorcycle Ride

April 28, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

For motorcycle enthusiasts, northern Minnesota offers some of the best riding in the Midwest, combining scenic beauty with rich history and small-town charm. My son, Chad, and I took a fall northern Minnesota motorcycle ride. Each stop along the way delivered something unique, making this a great late-season trip that included interesting history, friendly local businesses, and fall colors.

Sauk Centre to Grand Rapids | Northern Minnesota Motorcycle Ride

Our first stop was Sauk Centre, the birthplace of Sinclair Lewis. This author helped put the town on the map. He published 24 novels and 70 short stories, even winning the Nobel Prize in Literature, and I made a mental note to read some of his works. Before leaving Sauk Centre, we checked out his boyhood home, imagining what life must have been like growing up in the late 1800s. Main Street’s relaxed, small-town pace set the tone for the rest of our journey.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

After riding north through Long Prairie on U.S. Route 71 and east on State Highway 27, we arrived in Little Falls, a town nestled along the Mississippi River and the Great River Road. Little Falls is rich in history and was the childhood home of famed aviator Charles Lindbergh. His home rests on a choice piece of real estate right on the river. A visit to the Charles A. Lindbergh State Park or the Charles Lindbergh House and Museum is worth the stop. The historic downtown and riverfront offer a perfect place to gas up.

Continuing northwest, Brainerd was next on the itinerary. Known for its lakes and outdoor activities, Brainerd offers a quintessential northern Minnesota experience and is a popular vacation spot for residents of the Twin Cities area. While it’s famous as a fishing destination, Brainerd also has miles of scenic highways that cut through dense forests and rise over rolling hills.

The town has a rich motorhead history and is home to Brainerd International Raceway. Built in 1968, this road course has hosted many stars of NASCAR fame, such as Ken Schrader and Jimmy Spencer, as well as Indy 500 names like Al Unser and Tom Sneva. Actor Paul Newman won his first professional race at BIR. The track started hosting motorcycle competitions in 1982 and continues with MotoAmerica superbike racing. With the season over and the facility deserted at the time of our trip, I was able to wind my Harley-Davidson Pan America through several spectator areas and onto the hallowed track. It felt surreal to place my “Dirt Glide” on the finish line for a photo.

As clouds moved in, we pulled into Rafferty’s Pizza in the neighboring resort town of Nisswa near Gull Lake. The pizza was good, and the town was alive with Octoberfest celebrations and live music.

Leaving the busy streets of Brainerd and Nisswa, we rode east into Remer, a small town with a big claim to fame – it’s often referred to as Minnesota’s “Home of Bigfoot.” Our gas stop was full of Bigfoot references. The cashier had never seen the beast but had heard stories from people claiming to have spotted the elusive creature. She said Remer hosts Bigfoot Days every July, and the Minnesota Bigfoot Conference was being held up the road at our next stop in Grand Rapids. We fired down the tree-lined State Highway 6, leaving the Bigfoot mystery unsolved.

Grand Rapids marked the midpoint of our trip and was our overnight stop. We chose the Hotel Rapids, a charming boutique hotel with a bar and bistro. Its history is illustrated on the walls of the bistro and in the rooms, and the facility even includes a standalone yurt available to rent for special events. The staff was friendly and full of recommendations about what to see and do in town. We took one of the recommendations and headed out on foot to the Rapids Brewing Company, which features craft brews, wood-fired pizza, live music, and a fun atmosphere.

Strolling around town, we were struck by the combination of old-town history with modern businesses. Many of the buildings had been repurposed as retail outlets, community centers, and art studios, such as the Old Central School and the Pokegama Hotel. Murals decorated many building walls, like the nonprofit MacRostie Art Center. Towering over town is the Blandin Paper Mill, whose former owner, Charles Blandin, established the Blandin Foundation with a goal of revitalizing rural and small-town communities. I’d say those efforts are paying off. After a long walk among the city blocks, we returned to the Hotel Rapids to check out their fantastic desert crepes.

See all of Rider‘s Minnesota motorcycle rides here.

Edge of the Wilderness to Hibbing | Northern Minnesota Motorcycle Ride

The next day, we were greeted with cloudy gray skies and temperatures in the mid-40s. It seemed like a good time to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of crepes and cereal at the hotel. Before leaving, we stopped by the Judy Garland Museum, celebrating the actress famous for her role in The Wizard of Oz. It was closed, so we’ll have to visit another time. We had heard about a great motorcycle road and were eager to find it, so we fueled up and moved on.

Heading north out of town, we picked up State Highway 38, the Edge of the Wilderness National Scenic Byway, a highlight of the trip. This 47-mile stretch of road winds through the Chippewa National Forest with breathtaking views of dense foliage, pristine lakes, and wildlife. The road’s curves and elevation changes make it a motorcyclist’s dream, while the serene natural beauty offers plenty of opportunities for photo stops and enjoying the quiet of the Northwoods.

Along the way, we noticed signs indicating that this area is part of the Laurentian Divide, which marks the division where water rolls either north to the Hudson Bay and the Arctic Ocean or south into the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. The quiet scenery was soon shattered as we rumbled up the road with occasional stops to see local businesses, such as the Big Timber Resort, the Pine Cone Soup & Sandwich Cafe, and Timberwolf Inn, all located along the byway near the town of Marcell.

Knowing we were at the northernmost point of our ride, we gassed up in Effie and headed east to the town of Virginia and Minnesota’s Iron Range. Temperatures stayed in the mid-40s, which was okay for me with my Aerostich heated vest and heated grips, but Chad started looking skyward for any sign of the sun breaking through to provide some warmth.

As we rode southeast to Virginia, we left the forests and entered rolling hills and farmland into the heart of the Iron Range. Virginia offers a glimpse into the state’s mining history, with several points of interest, including the Minnesota Discovery Center. The roads here are more open, offering sweeping views of the Iron Range’s rugged beauty and tailing hills. While the road required us to slow down for 90-degree turns, the ride was a cold one, and I was guessing Chad was ready to thaw out. With some light precipitation beginning to fall, we decided to warm up at the local McDonalds. You know it’s cold when even hot apple pies don’t warm you up.

See all of Rider‘s Midwest U.S. touring stories here.

Continuing our journey, we rolled into Hibbing, a town with a storied past. Known for its role in Minnesota’s iron mining industry, the Hull Rust Mine View is the best place to witness one of the largest open-pit iron mines in the world. The mine stretches more than 3 miles long, 2 miles wide, and 535 feet deep. Since iron ore shipments began in 1895, more than 800 million tons of ore have been removed from the 2,000-acre site. The visitor center is worth a stop.

Hibbing is known as “the town that moved” because the town had to shift 2 miles south as mining operations expanded. Nearly 200 homes and buildings were relocated using horses, tractors, and specially constructed wooden rails, logs, and steel cables.

With the clouds finally parting and sun poking through, we began to warm up as we rolled into the Greyhound Bus Museum, whose buses started service in 1914 and became an iconic American transportation brand. Hibbing is also notable as the town where musician Bob Dylan grew up.

From the literary roots of Sauk Centre to the mining heritage of Hibbing, this motorcycle ride through northern Minnesota delivers a great blend of history, scenic beauty, and fun stops. For anyone looking to ride in northern Minnesota, this route provides everything you need for an unforgettable experience on two wheels.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

SIDEBAR: Hotel Rapids

Located a short walk from downtown Grand Rapids, the boutique Hotel Rapids blends historic charm with modern luxury. The beautifully restored building showcases vintage photos that honor the hotel’s rich heritage. Guests can unwind at the cozy bar and bistro, which specializes in crepes and craft cocktails. Rooms feature high-speed wi-fi, flat-panel TVs, refrigerators, coffee makers, and microwaves. Visit the Hotel Rapids website for rates and reservations.

Northern Minnesota Motorcycle Ride Resources

Minnesota Tourism
Brainerd
Effie/Edge of the Wilderness Scenic Byway
Grand Rapids
Hotel Rapids
Iron Range Tourism
Little Falls
Nisswa
Remer
Sauk Centre

Chuck Cochran had his first taste of two-wheeled freedom at age 11 when he rode his friend’s minibike through a neighbor’s fence. He has owned more than a dozen motorcycles, and he tours regularly on his Harley-Davidson Pan America. He lives in Minnesota.

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EAGLERIDER Adds Harley-Davidson CVO Models to Rental Fleet

April 25, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

EAGLERIDER Offers Harley-Davidson CVO Road Glide and Street Glide — Try out a Harley-Davidson CVO motorcycle without the hassles of ownership by renting one for a day through EAGLERIDER, now offering CVO Road Glide and Street Glide models year-round.

EAGLERIDER has doubled its Harley-Davidson CVO fleet for 2025 and extended it to be available all year, giving more riders the chance to rent and try out one of these premium models. The motorcycle rental and tour company says this move is in response to the overwhelming demand of CVO rental bikes during 2024.

The Harley-Davidson CVO Road Glide and CVO Street Glide were significantly updated for 2023. They’re powered by a Milwaukee-Eight 121ci V-Twin with variable valve timing and include high-end features like Skyline OS infotainment system with 12.3-inch TFT, Rockford Fosgate audio, advanced suspension, and 25th anniversary paint and finishes. In our review of the CVO models, we said “These Glides are easily the best ones yet. Their motors have more power at all points on the tach, and their instrumentation is now among the best in the business.”

“We make it our mission to truly hear what our customers want, and their message came through crystal clear: more CVOs, more locations, and more opportunity to ride,” said EAGLERIDER CEO Sebastian Schoepe. “We’re proud to bring back the CVO experience with greater access and exciting new color options based directly on rider feedback.”

CVO rentals start at $259 per day, and Club EAGLERIDER members can cash in five credits per day for a CVO rental. These models will be available in Los Angeles, Las Vegas, San Francisco, Denver, Chicago, Orlando, and Seattle.

Visit the EAGLERIDER website to book a rental or tour and to learn more.

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Roamin’ in Wyoming Motorcycle Ride

April 25, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Fort Laramie is the oldest town in Wyoming, having first been settled as Fort Williams in the 1830s and “bought” by the U.S. government in 1849. It was the perfect place to start my 1,500-mile Wyoming motorcycle ride around the Cowboy State. Just 3 miles away is the Fort Laramie National Historic Site, which in the 1800s was the fort that anchored all the small outposts along the Oregon Trail and was a stop for the wagon trains headed west. Abandoned in 1890, it became part of the National Park Service in 1938 and has been restored and preserved. It’s a great place to explore and learn about the Old West.

From Fort Laramie, my roughly clockwise route around Wyoming took me on U.S. Route 26 west to I-25 and then south on State Route 34 to Laramie. SR-34 is a remote and relaxing ride through rolling country with just enough curves to keep it interesting. After visiting the Laramie Historic Railroad Depot Museum, I headed southwest on Snowy Range Road (SR-130) to the Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site. Built in 1872, the prison housed some notorious outlaws, the most famous of which was Robert LeRoy Parker, better known as Butch Cassidy. Butch spent two years at the prison and was never jailed again. Remember in the movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid when Butch and Sundance tried to blow the safe on the railroad car and accidentally blew up the whole car? That safe is housed at the prison, which is well worth a stop.

Scan the QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

Continuing west on SR-130, I rode over the Snowy Range Mountains, topping out at Snowy Range Pass (10,847 feet). This part of eastern Carbon County is one of the most scenic rides in Wyoming, with snow-covered granite peaks, alpine forests, and deep-blue clear lakes. The road has steep grades and curves, but its surface is well-maintained and there are plenty of pull-offs where you can stop and enjoy the scenery. The road is closed in winter and had only been open for two weeks prior to my ride, so there was plenty of snow at the pass.

SR-130 took me deeper into Carbon County to State Route 230 south to Encampment and then west again on State Route 70, which goes through Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest and over Battle Pass (9,995 feet). This is a very remote road that’s open only in summer. After descending Battle Pass and encountering a herd of elk on the highway, I arrived in Savery, population 25, where I visited the Little Snake River Museum. Some of the buildings in town date back to 1873, and the museum has many artifacts from Wyoming’s early days.

Farther west I passed through the small towns of Dixon and Baggs, and then I rode north to I-80 and headed east to U.S. Route 287, which took me north to Lander for my first overnight. The next morning, I rode 12 miles on Sinks Canyon Road with the river cascading beside the road to Popo Agie Falls. Since the road past the parking area is gravel, I turned around and rode back to Lander.

From Lander, I took State Route 28 through the Red Canyon scenic area. Just a few miles down the road is the turnoff for South Pass City and Atlantic City, both of which are ghost towns from the mining days. The road is hard-pack gravel, but it’s well maintained. I stopped in Atlantic City to have a coffee at the Miner’s Grubstake & Dredge Saloon (which also has a general store) and discovered the owners also ride motorcycles. The restaurant is the only business in town, and there were a few campers there when I stopped.

A few miles up the road is South Pass City, which has been preserved by the state of Wyoming and is exactly the way it was 100 years ago. Most of the buildings are open for visitors to explore. Overlooking the town is the Carissa Mine. Like many old mining towns, South Pass City went from boom to bust to boom to bust as mines were discovered and eventually played out.

After touring these ghost towns, I continued west on State Route 28 to Farson, and Farson Highway (U.S. Route 191) south took me to Dutch John, Utah, for a ride around Flaming Gorge Reservoir. U.S. 191 intersects with Utah Route 44 south to Wyoming Route 530 at the state line. The ride north offers beautiful views of the reservoir and the Green River Valley along with some nice sweepers and switchbacks. Then I headed north to Pinedale, Wyoming, to visit an old friend.

Pinedale is one of those drive-through towns on the way to Yellowstone on U.S. 191, but I consider it and the surrounding area a hidden gem. At the north end of town is Fremont Lake Road, which is 15 miles long and ends at the Wind River Range trailhead. The ride offers great views of the lake and the upper Green River Valley, and there is a pull-off at the trailhead that offers one of the most scenic views of the mountains.

Early mountain men held their rendezvous at Fremont Lake, named after famed explorer John Fremont. While in Pinedale, I recommend visiting the Museum of the Mountain Man. And if you’re looking for something to eat, try the Wind River Brewing Company, which offers great food and tasty microbrews.

I spent two nights in Pinedale before heading north. After a relaxing, scenic ride through Grand Teton National Park, it was on to Yellowstone National Park, which had the usual traffic jams, or should I say buffalo/elk/bear jams, but then who cares when you are in such beautiful country? I recommend taking the Fire Hole River turnoff between Madison Junction and Old Faithful. The one-way road is only a 2-mile detour, but it’s well worth your time.

I spent the night in Cooke City, Montana, just outside Yellowstone’s northeast park gate. Most businesses here cater to riders. I left Cooke City with a plan to ride the Beartooth Highway (U.S. Route 212) across the pass to Red Lodge and then turn around, ride back over the top, and turn east toward Cody. On this day, the weather gods smiled on me with clear and sunny skies. Riding the Beartooth is a must any time you are in this part of Wyoming.

See all of Rider’s West U.S. Motorcycle Rides here.

I have been asked which direction is best to ride the Beartooth Highway, and my answer is always the same: both directions. The Beartooth is designated as an All-American Road and for good reason. I had only ridden a few miles when I spotted two grizzlies alongside the road. These were young cubs, if you can call 250-lb bears cubs. They had been turned loose by mama this spring and would soon separate and go their own ways.

After enjoying the ride in both directions, I turned onto Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (SR-296), which took me from mountains to canyons and back to mountains. The scenery is epic, and the road has everything from open expanses to switchbacks and steep grades. After that, I passed through Cody, where I recommend you spend at least one day to visit the Buffalo Bill Center of the West and take in the rodeo in the evening.

After spending the night in Powell, I headed east on U.S. Route 14A to ride over the Bighorn Mountains, where you can easily spend a day exploring the great roads. On the way out of the town of Lovell, there is a large sign along the highway cautioning riders about steep grades and sharp turns 20 miles ahead, and the fun begins after crossing Bighorn Lake. U.S. 14A is a rider’s road for sure. After the climb to the summit, the road sweeps across the top of the Bighorns with a vista of green forests and mountain peaks.

U.S. 14A ends at Burgess Junction where it intersects with U.S. Route 14. If you turn left, the road will descend out of the mountains and take you to Sheridan, but I chose to turn right for more twists and turns in the Bighorns, taking me over Granite Pass and through Shell Canyon to Greybull.

I rode south on U.S. Route 20 to Manderson and then cruised along SR-31 to Ten Sleep, a popular stop for riders, then continued east into Johnson County. The ride goes through the southern part of Bighorn National Forest, and I topped out at Powder River Pass, the highest point on U.S. 16 at 9,666 feet, which includes plenty of curves and views of high cliffs, pine trees, and rivers.

U.S. 16 took me to Buffalo, the seat of Johnson County. I recommend stopping at the historic Occidental Hotel – known as “The Ox” – to take in the history. Originally built of logs in 1880, it was a stop on the Bozeman Trail. A few years later, it was built into a grand hotel. The Occidental has had many famous guests, including President Teddy Roosevelt, President Herbert Hoover, Calamity Jane, and outlaws such as Butch Cassidy and Killer Tom Horn. If you go into the saloon and belly up to the bar, you will be standing in the footprints of these famous figures. While at the bar, look up at the bullet holes in the ceiling. Go ahead and have a cold one.

To close the loop of my grand tour of Wyoming, I rode south on State Route 196 to Kaycee, famous for the Hole in the Wall hideout where Butch Cassidy and other notorious outlaws hid from the law under red sandstone cliffs. From Kaycee, I continued south on I-25 to Casper for more Wild West history.

Casper is home to 12 museums, including the Tate Geological Museum, which houses a woolly mammoth, and the Fort Caspar Museum and Historic Site, complete with reconstructed buildings and artifacts from Casper’s first 100 years. After exploring the museums, there are many restaurants, craft breweries, bakeries, and lodging options for a meal or an overnight stay.

From scenic views and excellent motorcycle roads to historic sites and great food, this Wyoming motorcycle ride in the Cowboy State offers plenty to explore for a multi-day moto tour.

See all of Rider’s touring stories here

Wyoming Motorcycle Ride Resources

Wyoming Tourism
Fort Laramie National Historic Site
Laramie, WY Tourism
Carbon County, WY Tourism
Wyoming Territorial Prison
Little Snake River Museum
Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area
Museum of the Mountain Man
Grand Teton National Park
Yellowstone National Park
Red Lodge, MT Tourism
Cody, WY Tourism
Buffalo/Johnson County, WY Tourism
Casper, WY Tourism

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Utah Motorcycle Ride to Great Basin National Park | Favorite Ride

April 23, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Great Basin in Utah Motorcycle Ride — This is the aptly named Parowan Gap, which is located about 20 miles from my hometown of Cedar City. (Photos by the author)

Ten years ago, doctors removed my left kidney – and the golfball-sized tumor attached to it. To mark a decade of being cancer-free, I rode my Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail on a Utah motorcycle ride across the West Desert to Great Basin National Park in Nevada.

Had the procedure not been successful, I would’ve only had a 10-15% chance of survival. After my first follow-up appointment, when the surgeon told me I wasn’t going to die, I gained a new appreciation for living in the moment. Riding is the ultimate practice in mindfulness, staying focused on the immediate and appreciating what is around you.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

I left early on a cool September morning, taking Utah Route 130 and catching the sunrise at one of my favorite places. Parowan Gap, located just off SR-130 about 20 miles north of Cedar City, has an amazing collection of petroglyphs dating back at least 1,000 years. I highly recommend stopping to read – and feel – the history.

Back on SR-130, I continued north to Minersville, a “sneeze and you’ll miss it” town. Over the next 20 miles, I only saw maybe three vehicles. Smoke from California wildfires obscured the mountains in the distance, painting them in layered shades of blue and purple.

State Route 21 took me northwest towards Milford, a small town with deep roots in mining, agriculture, and the railroad. It once served as the terminus for a Union Pacific-controlled company that served southern Utah, southern Nevada, and northern Arizona.

Past Milford, the next 80 miles are mostly long straights across desert valleys, interrupted by occasional sweepers as you traverse a few mountain passes. This is basin-and-range country, and it’s cool to ride over a pass and see the ribbon of highway stretching for miles through an empty valley before rising to the mountains in the distance.

This is also open-range BLM land, which means no fences but occasional cattle and deer. You might also see antelope, and a couple road signs warn of wild horses. With all this potential livestock and wildlife, long sightlines are appreciated, but riding at night is risky. I saw evidence of this: long skid marks followed by a maroon smear on the highway.

See all of Rider‘s Utah Motorcycle Rides here.

I only passed a few homesteads. Most were a good distance off the highway, and I might’ve missed them except for the clumps of trees in an otherwise barren landscape.

Life in the desert follows water, and there isn’t much out here. About 10 miles from the Utah-Nevada border, I noticed a trail of green vegetation not far off the road that told me there was a creek out there.

In Nevada, SR-21 becomes Nevada Route 487, and 6 miles later in Baker, a left on Lehman Caves Road (SR-488) took me to Great Basin National Park. The two highlights of the national park – which doesn’t require an entrance fee – are the caves and Wheeler Peak.

Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive climbs 4,000 feet in just 12 miles, topping out at 10,000 feet. Here’s where you’ll finally get to lean your bike over a little. The speed limit is 35 mph with no passing. Traffic was light, so I could push my speed a little. But honestly, it’s a ride I didn’t mind taking slow considering how much there was to see over such a short span, with the muted grays and greens of desert sagebrush at the bottom giving way to the autumn reds and yellows of an alpine forest at the top.

The scenic drive is a seasonal road past mile marker 3, so check before you go. Parking is sparse at the top, but from there you can hike up another 3,000 feet to the summit of Wheeler Peak or hike among the Bristlecone pines, which are some of the oldest living things on earth.

I stretched my legs hiking for about 30 minutes before winding my way back down the scenic drive to the visitor center to make my Lehman Caves tour reservation (something else to plan in advance). The ride down offered great opportunities to take in the amazing view for miles across the Great Basin Desert.

See all of Rider‘s West U.S. Motorcycle Rides here.

The cave tour was a pleasantly cool reprieve from the warmer temps on the bike. If you’re claustrophobic, you’ll probably want to skip this one, as there are several passages where you must hunch over to walk through. The caves are worth a visit, but they’re not particularly dramatic.

As I made my way home, the smoke had mostly cleared, and as the sun started to dip, I could see farther into the distance. When I set out that morning with 10 years in my mirrors, I thought I would have some great revelation along the way about life and what it means to have come so close to death, but the truth is, I ended up doing exactly what I should’ve been doing – not thinking about much at all and just enjoying the ride.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here

Utah Motorcycle Ride Resources

Paul Dail, who was on Rider’s editorial staff from 2022 to 2024, was born again into riding when his brother held up his end of a deal, dropping off a Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail at his doorstep. Since then, he has enjoyed riding it around southern Utah and beyond.

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Clarksville Cruise – Tennessee Motorcycle Loop

April 18, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Clarksville, also known as Queen City, sits along the Cumberland River in Tennessee about 50 miles northwest of Nashville. Lifelong residents mingle with newcomers from the university and Army post, resulting in a mix of backgrounds that continues to breathe new life into this historic tobacco-trading town. It’s that combination of old and new, charm and creativity, that makes it unique.

Click here to view the route on REVER

This Tennessee motorcycle loop starts and ends at Clarksville’s Liberty Park, a great place to watch boats go into the marina or warm up on the walking trails. From the park, I headed east out of the city on State Route 76. For those needing some gear, two motorcycle dealerships are located on this road.

Related: 2025 CFMOTO 450CL-C Preview

Taking a left on Old Clarksville Springfield Road, my first stop was Port Royal State Historic Park. The ride to this site had little traffic, and the park is small and walkable, consisting of the historic downtown area of Port Royal, a town established in 1797 along the Red River. The old general store serves as the visitor center.

Just north of Port Royal is Adams, home of the Bell Witch cabin and cave. Tours of the cabin and cave begin in May, so I missed my chance on this mid-April ride. Maybe that was fortunate, since I’ve heard stories of bad luck following those who enter the cave. Those brave enough to enter will surely enjoy the stories of John Bell’s neighbor, Kate Batts, whose spirit is said to reside on the property.

From Adams, I headed north into Kentucky on U.S. Route 41, passing through quiet farmland on a gentle ride and giving myself time to enjoy the sunshine. I then took Kentucky State Route 1453 south and stopped in at the MB Roland Distillery. If you like whiskey, consider taking the tour of the distillery, and don’t forget to grab a bottle on your way out.

Heading south back into Tennessee from Kentucky State Route 115 consists of more farmland until the residential areas around the Fort Campbell Army post come into view. Riding into Clarksville’s downtown area, you’ll be greeted with many great eating spots to choose from for a lunch break. On this ride, I picked an old favorite: Blackhorse Pub & Brewery. This spot serves up comforting meals and made-in-house brews, and it’s been a focal point of downtown Clarksville for decades. From Blackhorse, the downtown area is very walkable and includes a park, the Customs House Museum, a meadery, a used bookstore, the Roxy Regional Theatre, and plenty more to explore.

After lunch, I cruised through Austin Peay State University, my alma mater. I remembered walking with my now-husband to class as we chatted about our plans for the future, completely unaware that my education in English and creative writing would lead to a career of riding and writing about motorcycles. The campus is especially beautiful in spring when the dogwoods and other flowering trees are in full bloom.

See all of Rider’s Tennessee touring stories here

About 3 miles northeast of APSU is Dunbar Cave State Park. Parking beside the visitor center, it’s a short 0.15-mile walk down a wooded path to reach the mouth of the cave. Entering the cave requires booking a guided tour, but the floor in front of the cave’s mouth is open for visitors to shake a leg on. That’s right: The concrete platform in front of the cave was used as a dance-floor before the invention of air conditioning, with consistent 56-degree air blowing out of the cave to cool dancers and performers.

The second loop of this ride heads west from Clarksville and is curvier than the first loop. Heading west on U.S. Route 79 and then south on State Route 233, riders are treated to winding pavement through low-traffic, heavily wooded country, with the road hopping from hill to hollow to hill and snaking along creeks. From Needmore, head south on Lylewood Road to drop down next to the river and ride to the Lylewood Inn.

Offering reprieve in an area with no other store or business for miles, Lylewood Inn is a large brick house set on a hilltop overlooking the river. The Mercantile store beside the inn offers jams, jellies, pickled goods, homemade gifts, and quilting supplies. Originally built in the early 1800s, this house has an interesting history involving arson and the Civil War, and it’s worth a stop.

After popping into the Mercantile at Lylewood Inn, continue on Lylewood Road, which turns into Wildcat Creek Road. At the end of the road, turn left on State Route 46 and ride about 3 miles to the Cumberland City ferry. Ferry fees for out-of-county motorcycles are only $1, but be aware that the ferry only accepts cash and no bills larger than $5. From here, you can connect to my Small Town Tennessee Loop (find this Favorite Ride in the February 2024 issue) to extend your trip.

Sticking to my planned route for the day, I entered Cumberland City and headed northeast on State Route 149 for a leisurely cruise on the opposite side of the Cumberland River to enter Clarksville, arriving back at Liberty Park. This route is passable year-round, but a spring or fall trip is best for colorful trees and pleasant temperatures. Finishing this Tennessee motorcycle loop, you’ll find more to explore in Clarksville, like the river walk in McGregor Park or the Fort Defiance Civil War Park & Interpretive Center.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Tennessee Motorcycle Loop Resources

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Best Motorcycle Roads in Marin County, California

April 16, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

California is known for excellent motorcycle roads. But even in such a target-rich environment, there are special areas that offer a mind-boggling blend of scenery, curves, and variety. The best motorcycle roads in Marin County, California, which occupies a large peninsula north of San Francisco, are some of the best in the state.

See all of Rider‘s California motorcycle tour features

This 140-mile paved route begins at the southern tip of the Marin County peninsula, which is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Near the northern end of the Golden Gate Bridge is the Moore Road Pier, a perfect location to capture a selfie or a photo of your motorcycle with the iconic red suspension bridge and San Francisco in the background – though both may be hidden by fog, especially during summer months.

From the pier, Bunker Road climbs up to the Baker-Berry Tunnel, passes under U.S. Route 101, and descends into a valley as it enters the Marin Headlands area of the GGNRA. Turn left on McCullough Road to begin a curving ascent to a roundabout, then turn left on Conzelman Road for a scenic ride high above the Pacific Ocean (the road becomes one-way).

This area was fortified during World War II, and stops along the way include Hawk Hill (which once housed the radar and launch control center for the nearby nuclear-missile Nike Site SF 87L), Battery 129, Battery Rathbone-McIndoe, and Battery Wallace. At the end of Conzelman Road, there is a parking area for a hiking trail to Point Bonita Lighthouse.

Field Road takes you past the Nike nuclear-missile site and down to Rodeo Lagoon, ending at Bunker Road. A left turn takes you to Fort Cronkhite, a former World War II military post. Turn right and return to McCullough Road, make a right turn, and ride up to the roundabout again. A left turn on Conzelman Road continues the high scenic drive in the opposite direction (the road is one-way) toward Battery Spencer, a popular overlook that puts you at eye level with the Golden Gate Bridge.

Conzelman Road ends at U.S. 101 (known as the Redwood Highway for 350 miles up to Crescent City), and going north climbs up a ridge, through the Robin Williams Tunnel, and past the iconic bayside town of Sausalito. Take the exit for State Route 1 (445B), cross Coyote Creek, and take a left at the next traffic light (there’s a gas station on the corner). SR-1, also known as Shoreline Highway, winds tightly through a residential area as it climbs up to Bolinas Ridge. Near the top, you’ll see signs for Muir Woods National Monument, a nature preserve that protects old-growth redwoods.

Continue on SR-1 for a wonderfully twisty descent down to Muir Beach. Stay on SR-1, and just before Stinson Beach, turn right on Panoramic Highway, which climbs up through towering stands of coast redwoods along Webb Creek. At Pantoll Campground (a good place for a restroom break), turn left on Pantoll Road for a winding ride along the grasslands of Bolinas Ridge.

Pantoll Road ends at Ridgecrest Boulevard. A right turn begins yet another winding, scenic ridgeline ride, this one to the East Peak of Mount Tamalpais. There’s a parking area, a visitor center, restrooms, and a trail around the peak that offers 360-degree views from nearly 2,600 feet above sea level. On a clear day, the skyline of San Francisco will be visible to the south.

The parking lot at East Peak is a dead-end, so backtracking on Ridgecrest Boulevard is the only way out, but it’s a great ride so no one will complain. When you reach the junction with Pantoll Road, continue on Ridgecrest Boulevard as it bobs and weaves over grassy hills and exposed rock along Bolinas Ridge. This stretch of road has been the setting for numerous car ads and commercials. There are pull-outs along the road, and it’s worth stopping at several to take in the bird’s eye view of the Pacific Coast, particularly Bolinas Bay.

Related: BMW K 1600 GTL Review

After a few rollicking miles, you’ll enter a tunnel of trees as the grasslands give way to a dark redwood forest and Ridgecrest Boulevard soon ends at Fairfax-Bolinas Road. Turning around and riding Ridgecrest again is perfectly okay; in fact, we recommend it! When you get back to the junction with Fairfax-Bolinas Road, turn left and enjoy a tight, twisty, steep descent back to SR-1.

Turn right (north) on SR-1 and take a breather as you cruise alongside Olema Creek. After passing through the small village of Olema, turn left onto Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, which runs along the shore of Tomales Bay before turning inland and climbing up Inverness Ridge.

After cresting the ridge (you’ll see a sign for Point Reyes National Seashore), stay left on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. The next 13 miles are a scenic, rolling ride through farmland and protected parkland. The road ends at a parking area for the Point Reyes Lighthouse, and nearby is an overlook for a sea lion area. On this road we’ve seen deer and coyotes, so stay frosty.

The lighthouse parking area is another dead end, so backtrack to the junction with Pierce Point Road. We recommend turning right, but turning left is a nice add-on spur (18 miles roundtrip) that goes through Tomales Bay State Park and out to the Tomales Point Trailhead near Pierce Point Ranch. The hike out to the point is scenic, and you’ll likely see the herd of tule elk that live out there.

Return to SR-1, turn left, and cross the small bridge into the town of Point Reyes Station, an ideal place to stop for lunch and gas up. Continue north on SR-1 and ride along the northern shore of Tomales Bay, which is known for its briny oysters. At times the road runs right along the edge of the water, and the curves are often delightfully tight.

As soon as the road veers inland, turn right on Marshall-Petaluma Road, a gracefully winding country road. Turn right on Hicks Valley Road, right on Point Reyes-Petaluma Road, and finally left on Nicasio Valley Road near the reservoir. After passing through Nicasio, veer left on Lucas Valley Road, another winding, rural road that will delight you with curve after curve. As you approach the community of Lucas Valley, you enter a residential area and soon arrive at U.S. 101 again.

While these are the best motorcycle roads in Marin County, there are more to explore. Just pull up the area on REVER or Google Maps and look for the squiggly lines.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Marin County, California, Resources

Marin County, CA
Golden Gate National Recreation Area
Muir Woods National Monument
Mount Tamalpais State Park
Point Reyes National Seashore

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Western Connecticut Motorcycle Ride | Favorite Ride

March 18, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

It had been years since I last explored the winding, scenic roadways of western Connecticut, but I fondly recalled the joy of cruising alongside rivers, through covered bridges and forests, and among farms and waterfalls. It was time for a return trip, and this 113-mile loop route certainly qualifies as a favorite ride.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

I met two friends, Pathfinder Rich and Yamaha Joe, at the Putnam Diner in Patterson, New York, a few miles from the Connecticut border. Rich was riding his BMW K 1600 GTL, Joe was on his customized Yamaha Stryker 1300, and I rode my trusty Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT.

We crossed into Connecticut on a brilliant sunny day and began heading north on State Route 37 through forests and farms. We stopped at Great Hollow Nature Preserve, which encompasses 825 acres of wetlands, woods, and hiking trails, as well as a restored 18th century farmhouse used for environmental workshops.

Back on the road, we enjoyed the clean, clear air and the soothing warmth of the sun. At Sherman, we continued north on State Route 39, passing by more farms and country estates. We made a stop at Greener Pastures, a farmstand that sells vegetables and pasture-raised meat produced on-site at the idyllic, 100-year-old Happy Acres Farm.

Continuing our northward path, we turned east on State Route 55 for a few miles to Gaylordsville, then turned north on U.S. Route 7 and crossed the Housatonic River. We cruised alongside the river to Bulls Bridge Road, where we took a brief detour to ride through Bull’s Bridge, which was built in 1842 and is one of three historic covered bridges in Connecticut.

We cruised through the small riverside town of Kent, which has quaint shops, galleries, restaurants, and the authentic feel of 19th century New England.

Next, we stopped to stretch our legs and to admire the view at Kent Falls State Park, where the Kent Falls Brook cascades 250 feet as the cool, clear waters make their way to the Housatonic. Rather than climb the trail to the top of the falls, we turned our attention to two trikes in the parking lot: a silver Gold Wing and a bright orange Rewaco – one of the wildest machines we’d ever seen.

We continued our cruise up U.S. 7 along the Housatonic, crossing the river at the town of Cornwall Bridge. On the other side, I spotted a beautiful white clapboard country church. The St. Bridget Church, built in 1883, is typical of churches in rural western Connecticut. Its serene setting next to the river tempted us to stay longer, but we had to answer the call of the road.

A few miles farther north, we crossed the Housatonic again via State Route 128, riding through the 172-foot-long West Cornwall Bridge, another historic covered bridge that was built in 1864.

After riding back across the bridge, we followed U.S. 7 north again to North Canaan, where we had lunch. For our return route south, we made a counterclockwise loop via U.S. Route 44 and State Routes 41 and 4 back to the town of Cornwall Bridge. We enjoyed cruising through the quilted land of farms, lakes, forests, and villages, where there was something new to see around every corner and bend.

See all of Rider’s Northeast U.S. motorcycle rides here.

South of Cornwall Bridge, we took State Route 45 to Lake Waramaug, which is surrounded by low-lying mountains and picturesque country homes. We circumnavigated the lake on a winding route that included North Shore Road, Lake Waramaug Road, and West Shore Road before returning to SR-45. Two state parks adjacent to the 656-acre lake offer plenty of recreation opportunities.

Since the day was growing late, we left the beautiful lake behind and started our journey home. Heading south on U.S. Route 202, we crossed the Housatonic again near New Milford and backtracked on U.S. 7 to SR-37 and New York.

Riding along the weaving roads, the cool, late afternoon air was invigorating. As the sun washed the landscape with color, I was glad I had made it to western Connecticut again. Its many beautiful sights and pleasant backroads make for an enjoyable and interesting ride.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Western Connecticut Motorcycle Ride Resources

Kenneth W. Dahse is a writer and photographer from northern New Jersey and a regular contributor to Rider. Ken has been riding since he was a teenager, and his favorite rides are relaxed multiday excursions.

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Keweenaw Peninsula, Michigan Motorcycle Ride

March 17, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, which sits above Wisconsin and separates Lake Superior from Lake Michigan, is an often-overlooked haven. Its combination of rugged mountains, lush forests, coastal scenery, and rich history make it one of my favorite places to explore. There are hundreds of miles of winding roads – both paved and unpaved – that make the U.P. ideal for motorcycling.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

The Keweenaw, a smaller peninsula extending from the U.P.’s northern shore, is quintessential and fully embodies the character of the region. From its mining heritage to its natural beauty, Keweenaw has much for visitors to explore and enjoy. This is especially true when on two wheels.

The Keweenaw Peninsula is a beloved place for me. It’s where I lived for a few years while finishing my undergraduate degree. It’s also where I took some unforgettable camping trips and where I met and later married my wife. I’m not the only one who holds an affinity for the region; it seems that everyone who experiences the Keweenaw comes away with fond memories.

If you find yourself looking for a weekend getaway, the Keweenaw is a great candidate destination. It’s also a must-visit area during longer explorations of the U.P. For those considering a trip, I recommend reading David Mac Frimodig’s book Keweenaw Character: The Foundation of Michigan’s Copper Country, which offers an interesting history of the region.

Mining is one of the most defining historical influences on the region, literally running right through the landscape. There was a time in the early 20th century when the region, nicknamed “Copper Country,” was the largest copper producer in the world. There are many tours, historical sites, museums, and mines that teach visitors about the technical, cultural, and environmental impacts of this era. The stamp-sand beaches near the town of Gay are collisions of nature and history, where mine tailings remain from the high-volume production.

The sister cities of Houghton and Hancock, which sit on opposite sides of the Keweenaw Waterway in the middle of the peninsula and are connected by the Portage Lake Lift Bridge, are the perfect home base for any U.P. trip. The history and charm of the area are always on display. Hotel options range from basic to fancy, and there are unique bars, restaurants, and shops. Tours of the Quincy Mine, Michigan Tech hockey games at the MacInnes Student Ice Arena, and pizza at the Ambassador Restaurant are just a few of my favorite activities.

From Houghton/Hancock, circling the Keweenaw by hugging the shoreline as closely as possible on paved roads is a 200-mile journey. The entire route is scenic, but the stretches on Gay Lac La Belle Road, M-26 out of Copper Harbor, and M-203 along the Portage Canal are especially enjoyable. Traffic is usually minimal, and road surfaces are predictable.

Starting on the Keweenaw’s western flank in Ontonagon, M-38 takes you east to M-26, a state highway that runs the length of the peninsula. For 37 miles, M-26 winds its way through rolling hills and the Baraga State Forest Area and passes the twin lakes of Roland and Gerald before reaching Houghton. After crossing the Keweenaw Waterway, turning west on M-203 hugs the waterway’s shore as it turns north toward Lake Superior and passes through FJ McLain State Park.

M-203 then turns east to Calumet, a small village that was once the center of Michigan’s copper industry and is another option for overnight stays on the peninsula. For lodging, Rider contributor Chuck Cochran recommends the AmericInn, which has clean, reasonably priced rooms and is within walking distance of restaurants, shops, and the Keweenaw National Historic Park, which highlights the area’s 7,000-year history of copper mining.

Continuing north on U.S. Route 41 for a few miles to Ahmeek, turning west on Wright Street and right on Bollman Street puts you on 5 Mile Point Road, which runs north for a few miles before hugging the northwest shore of the peninsula and joining M-26 near Eagle River, a former mining community with a lighthouse that operated from 1854 to 1908. The impressive Eagle River Falls are visible from the M-26.

From Eagle River, M-26 follows the shore of Lake Superior, and it’s only a few miles to Jacob’s Falls, another scenic waterfall on the peninsula. Be sure to stop at the Jampot (open seasonally), where monks from Poorrock Abbey sell a variety of all-natural products made from locally sourced ingredients. They were even featured on an episode of Gordon Ramsay’s Uncharted TV show!

Ride a few more miles to George Hite Dunes and Marshes Preserve and then the town of Eagle Harbor. As the Keweenaw Peninsula bends to the east – its overall shape looks like a dolphin’s dorsal fin or a cresting wave – the M-26 runs due east to Copper Harbor, another great destination town near the peninsula’s tip.

See all of Rider’s Michigan motorcycle rides here.

Although home to only 136 residents, Copper Harbor is an all-season tourist and adventure town that caters not only to motorcyclists but also to hikers, mountain bikers, boaters, anglers, snowmobilers, skiers, birdwatchers, and rockhounds. It’s also a launch point for boat trips to Isle Royale National Park. The village has shops, restaurants, a microbrewery, and a general store. The Mariner North is a full-service resort in Copper Harbor with a lodge, motel, cabins, restaurant, and game room.

Near Copper Harbor is Brockway Mountain Drive, a favorite road that gives an accessible window onto the unique landscape of the U.P. Claimed to be the highest above-sea-level drive between the Rockies and the Alleghenies, this nine-mile road along the ridge of Brockway Mountain climbs to 1,320 feet above sea level, which is 720 feet above the surface of Lake Superior. Popular among sightseers and birdwatchers, the road was built in the early 1930s as one of President Roosevelt’s public works projects to provide employment at a time when the local mining industry was in decline and the Great Depression had the economy firmly in its grip. The Michigan Civilian Conservation Corps adopted the project, and the results are still enjoyed today.

See all of Rider’s Midwest U.S. motorcycle rides here.

To complete the shoreline loop, from Copper Harbor take U.S. 41 south to Guy Lac La Belle Road, which goes south to Mount Bohemia, a 1,465-foot peak that’s a popular place to snow ski, and Haven Falls, a small waterfall that’s surrounded by picnic tables, making it the perfect place to stop for lunch. The road hugs the shore of Lac La Belle and passes through the Bete Grise Wetlands Preserve on its way to the southern shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula. At Traverse Bay, Rice Lake Road takes you to Torch Lake and then M-26 at Lake Linden for the last few miles back to Hancock.

Crossing the Portage Lake Lift Bridge again, U.S. 41 follows the southern shore of the Keweenaw Waterway, which includes Portage Lake. It then runs along the edge of Keweenaw Bay to L’Anse.

A tour of the entire Upper Peninsula takes several days or longer. There are many more miles of riding along the shores of Lake Superior and Lake Michigan, extensive state and national forest areas, unique destinations such as the Pictured Rocks National Seashore and Tahquamenon Falls State Park, and vibrant cities such as Marquette, Sault Ste. Marie, and Escanaba.

The Keweenaw is a special place to me. Its geographic location lends itself to striking scenery and landscape. Getting there in a few hours is possible from larger Midwest cities like Minneapolis, Green Bay, Madison, Milwaukee, Duluth, and Grand Rapids. Its history gives it character, a culture entirely unique that still emanates from its communities. The memories I’ve been fortunate enough to make there are some of my most cherished. It’s no wonder why it’s such a great place to be on a motorcycle. I hope you can experience it from behind your handlebar. Maybe you’ll fall in love with the Keweenaw too.

See all of Rider’s motorcycle rides here.

Michigan Motorcycle Ride Resources

A Midwest-based motorcycle enthusiast and freelance author, Joel Komurka combines a passion for classic bikes with storytelling. Specializing in writing about motorcycle culture, travel, and history, he brings a unique perspective to the world of vintage motorcycles through his engaging articles and personal experiences.

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Touring the 9 Lakes Region of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride

March 17, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride 9 Lakes Region — The historic Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, one of many historic stops along this East Tennessee motorcycle ride, is surrounded by steep mountainous terrain and thick vegetation. It’s beautiful to look at but inconvenient for prisoners with hopes to escape. (Photos by the author and Jake Williams)

As my husband, Jake, and I packed our saddlebags for a three-day East Tennessee motorcycle ride in the 9 Lakes Region, I realized it would be our first multiday motorcycle journey together. A Saturday cruise on local roads is common for us, but this was new territory.

Day 1: To the Gap

As we exited at Harriman, the tree tunnel of I-40 was shed for the characterful scene of an East Tennessee small town. Mom-and-pop shops and restaurants lined the road, and buildings were brightly painted with murals displaying the town’s history and culture.

Harriman’s streets were soon replaced with riverside riding along the Emory and Clinch rivers. We followed the rivers toward Norris Lake, where we stopped at Hickory Star Marina in search of some grub.

We’d picked an oppressively hot weekend for our trip. Luckily, ice-cold sweet tea flows here like the area’s many rivers, and we had a glass in our hands on the marina’s dockside patio in no time, followed by sandwiches. Norris Lake gleams with a vibrant turquoise resulting from the lake’s depth and purity.

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1, Day 2, or Day 3 to view routes on REVER

We continued north, where the road often rose onto a ridge to reveal views of tree-covered mountainsides before dipping down into refreshing shade alongside cool creeks.

We reached Cumberland Gap with time to explore the town before supper. Our lodging for the night was the Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast, built in the late 1800s along a burbling stream that runs through the town.

Cumberland Gap is the kind of place an artist would use as a retreat to find inspiration and tranquility. We strolled the town, which is surrounded on all sides by Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, and hiked up to Tri-State Peak, where Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky meet. Although the hike was short, it was steep enough to renew our appreciation for our favorite mode of transportation, and we gained respect for the people who used this path to traverse the Appalachians long before the invention of motorized travel.

We slept well that night and woke up to a delicious and filling breakfast served at the long dining table on the inn’s main floor. After pleasant chats with other visitors over coffee, we were on the road again, this time heading south.

Day 2: Carving a Trail

The road toward Tazewell offered gorgeous morning views across the mountains, which its gentle curves and good visibility allow riders to take full advantage of.

We continued through Bean Station and White Pine before taking an exploratory journey in search of the Rankin coaling tower. A remnant of the time when trains were powered by steam, this tower is one of few remaining.

We climbed the steep one-lane Rankin Hill Road and then dropped down toward Douglas Lake. We followed the lake north until the road turned to rough gravel, on which I didn’t feel confident testing my nonexistent off-road skills on the Honda Rebel 1100T DCT cruiser. Jake was happy to continue on his Can-Am Ryker Rally for a mile or so while I guzzled water beside the railroad tracks. I was content to take a break for the first five minutes. After 10, I started missing the breeze through my mesh jacket. After 15, I became worried.

Apparently knowing the exact amount of time I’m willing to wait before embarking on a search-and-rescue attempt, Jake finally rode back into view. He’d found some locals fishing by the lake who told him where to see the tower in the distance, but he would’ve had to wade through shallow water to get near it.

Back on track, we continued to Norris Dam State Park, where we parked in front of Clinch River Brewery beside other motorcycles to have lunch. Just down the road from the brewery and across the dam, an overlook provided a scenic spot to digest our food.

On Old Tennessee 63 heading north, we enjoyed a pleasant and shaded ride alongside Cove Creek and railroad tracks before heading west through Huntsville and on to our destination for the evening, Rugby.

As the speed limit decreased on the way into Rugby, we saw a sign warning us to use caution and slow down for Irish road bowling. I wondered if Jake was as perplexed as I was. My guess was some sort of construction project.

Among the town’s historic Victorian buildings, residents of all ages crowded the main street, some with large balls in hand, some with tall poles, and many waving at us as we rode by. As we approached the action to investigate, a man named Tony welcomed us.

Tony explained that Irish road bowling is a game in which teams attempt to roll heavy cannon balls from one point in the road to another point farther away, then back to the original point. The team to make it back to the original point in the least number of rolls wins the game. As he talked, the townsfolk cheered and rooted for their teams. Tony displayed what we came to recognize as a common trait among the people here: a welcoming attitude that makes strangers feel like friends and family.

See all of Rider’s Tennessee touring stories here

When the game was over, we continued about a mile to Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast, where owner Linda Brooks Jones greeted us. Supper was ready, so we quickly washed the road off and headed down to the dining room.

Over a delicious meal of zucchini soup, homemade bread, salad, boneless pork chops with carrots and broccoli, and bananas foster, all washed down with iced almond tea, we enjoyed conversation with the other guests gathered around the table. While we had dessert, Linda joined us and told us more about the town, which was founded as a place for the second sons of the English gentry – those who would not inherit the bulk of their family’s fortune – to live in tranquility. I can see why this place was selected for a life of peace and leisure.

Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws

The next day would be the most historic of our trip, including places of somber importance as well as locations of vibrant culture. Our first stop was just down the road at the R.M. Brooks store.

After a delicious breakfast, we followed Linda to her family’s store. Now run by Linda’s daughter, R.M. Brooks was built in 1930 and is a prominent meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. Linda was happy to play tour guide, pointing out the attached house where her grandparents had lived and telling us more of the store’s rich history.

Tennessee 9 Lakes Region — The R.M. Brooks store has been a gathering place for residents and visitors alike for generations.

After promising Linda that we’d be back in time for supper, we continued south through Wartburg and on to Harriman. We learned that Harriman, known as “The Town that Temperance Built,” was founded in 1891 as an ideal industrial city built on foundational values of sobriety, exalted character, and learning. Although its founding core tenants sound somewhat restrictive, the town is lively and vibrant.

Looking for something cool to drink, we stopped in at The Sweet Spot and were greeted by a man named Blake, who pointed out historical photos on his shop’s walls as he answered our questions about the town. We bought a couple RC Colas and a small loaf of banana nut bread to enjoy as we strolled by the historic places Blake had recommended, like the grand Temperance Building and the historic Cornstalk Heights district.

When we finished our snack and walk, we saddled up again. Remembering our promise to Linda, we didn’t spend too long at the next three historic stops on our trip, which included the 18th-century Fort Southwest Point, the Wheat Community African Burial Ground, and the town of Oak Ridge, famous for its role in the Manhattan Project.

About 27 miles north of Oak Ridge, we found ourselves at Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a historic prison nestled among mountains covered in thick growth, making escape nearly impossible, which James Earl Ray, who assassinated Martin Luther King Jr., discovered in 1977.

Next up was the best road of the trip, State Route 116, one part of the popular Devil’s Triangle loop. We rode the curviest section, which rivals the Tail of the Dragon with challenging corners and exciting twists. It was also less populated than the Dragon tends to be, allowing us to enjoy it at our own pace.

See all of Rider’s South touring stories.

When the road came to an end at an intersection by a creek, our preplanned route told us to go left, which would take us along a gravel road. From what I could see, the road looked smooth enough, so we continued on, hoping it would turn back to pavement soon.

It did turn to pavement…in about 10 miles. By the end, we were covered in a layer of white dust and had lost time. After brushing off the dust as best as we could, we continued to our last historic stop of the day, the Scott County Jail in Huntsville, where we arrived a few minutes after closing.

We were disappointed to miss this tour, since we’d heard the owners of the jail are two women motorcyclists, and we’d hoped to chat with them. If a plan to return to the area had been only a vague thought at the start of the trip, it was now a certainty.

We kept our promise to Linda and made it back to Grey Gables in time for another delicious meal and friendly conversation around the dining table. At the end of the evening, Linda gave us a hug and a copy of her cookbook, The Table at Grey Gables. As a thunderstorm washed the dust off our bikes, we settled in for a good rest.

A Journey Home

The next morning, we had another fantastic breakfast before packing our saddlebags for a final time. We said our goodbyes and rolled out. As the mountains depressed into gentle rolling hills, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t disappointed to be headed home. Instead, I was excited to recall the many conversations and memories Jake and I would share about our first weekend-long motorcycle trip together, and I was happy that I’d be able to write this story to look back on many years from now.

See all of Rider’s touring stories here

9 Lakes of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride Resources

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Touring the 9 Lakes Region of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride

Day 1: To the Gap

Day 2: Carving a Trail

Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws

A Journey Home

9 Lakes of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride Resources

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