Is there any more iconic Harley-Davidson motorcycle than the hot rod Fat Boy?
From Hollywood stardom to being immortalised as a Lego toy, the Softail Fat Boy is the “most copied motorcycle of all time” according to Harley spokesman Kevin Hintz.
It was introduced in 1989 as a 1990 model and designed by legendary Harley stylists Willie G. Davidson and Louie Netz as a modernised version of the 1949 Hydra-Glide.
The next year, it was ridden to instant stardom by Arnold Schwarzenegger in Terminator 2: Judgement Day.
The movie featured a chase scene in which the bike performed a spectacular jump in the LA sewers. Next to The Great Escape jump, it’s probably the most famous motorcycle stunt in cinematic history.
The 3m jump is impressive as stunt double Peter Kent is riding a 300+kg Fat Boy beast, not a relatively nimble little Triumph dirt bike like in The Great Escape.
However, Hollywood trickery did assist as the Fat Boy was supported by 3cm cables. So when bike and ride hit the ground, they weighed only about 80kg. The cables were later digitally erased.
The Fat Boy also played an integral role in the marketing of the film with posters depicting Arnold in leather jacket and pants straddling the bike and carrying his lever-action Winchester shotgun. It’s an image for all time that has bestowed the Fat Boy model with intrinsic and monetary value.
In 2017, Harley made major changes to its Softail range with lighter weight, improved suspension, bigger Milwaukee Eight 107 and 114 engines and two new and very stiff frames.
The wider frame accommodates the massively wide 240mm-section rear tyre of the Breakout and Fat Boy, up from 200mm.
For 2021, the Fat Boy gets minor styling updates and drops the 107 engine, only coming with the 114 plant.
The styling changes would only be noticeable to a Fat Boy tragic.
They include some cosmetic changes, a wet weather “sock” on the hi-flow air filter and a digital fuel gauge in the main instruments, replacing the analogue dial in the “dummy” left fuel cap on the tank. Traditionalists may not like that, but the old gauge was difficult to read.
Sadly, they have also dropped the cruise control that was on the previous S variant.
The remaining styling elements are very similar to those of Arnie’s Fat Boy: Solid Lakester wheels, fat forks, heavily chromed headlight nacelle and wide handlebars.
It’s a style that divides opinion, but there is no doubting it has many steadfast fans and even a legion of young fans.
I’ve ridden every Fat Boy model for the past couple of decades and have always noticed the admiring glances it gets from riders and non riders alike.
But is it a case of form over function?
Certainly the major chassis and powertrain changes of 2017 have improved its function … to a degree.
Yes it has better suspension with an external preload adjuster and dual-bending valve telescopic cartridge forks, smoother transmission and 161Nm of grunt yet even better fuel economy!
But that 240mm, low-profile rear tyre is never going to work well.
The low profile results in a harsh ride, despite the improved rear shock.
It also means you need Arnie’s biceps to counter steer the bike and hold your line in corners as the flat profile tyre tries to stand the bike upright.
We’ve all heard it said that Harleys won’t go around corners. That’s rubbish. Many modern Harleys handle quite well, albeit with limited cruiser-style clearance issues. After two weeks with a Fat Boy test bike, the wide floorboards are copping a hammering.
But the Fat Boy also has issues riding in a straight line on anything less than perfect road surfaces.
If there is a camber in the road, the rear tyre will follow it downhill.
If you hit a bump, the rear tyre will push away from it.
And if you ride over any longitudinal crack, the rear tyre will follow it.
This all makes riding the Fat Boy a tiring experience; a bit like an arms session in the gym.
But isn’t that what really appeals about this bike, anyway? Its need for some muscle behind the bars is intrinsic to its macho appeal.
Talk to any biker over a few beers at the end of the day, the same old question comes up. ‘When did you first start riding?’ For myself and many, many other Aussies, the answer is quite different to those that you’d get in Europe, the USA or Asia. For these other countries, the answer will often be ‘motorcross’ or even ‘bombing around a quiet car park on Sundays.’ But for many an Aussie, the answer will almost inevitably be, ‘as a kid on a farm.’
In Farm’s Way
Farming is to Australia as cars are to the US; it’s the industry at the heart of the country and as such, it unavoidably burrows its way into many aspects of the country’s culture and being. So even a Sydney boy like me, born and bred 30 minutes from the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, spent many a school holiday fanging around on a bike in the dusty far western plains of New South Wales.
And while this ‘farm first’ approach to motorcycling does often feed young riders into the typical moto-cross, enduro and even track racing categories, this birth as an off-road rider from nothing but an empty paddock, an ‘ag bike’ and a whole day to waste in the dirt is uniquely Australian. With very little for learners to hit apart from wire fences and the barking Cattle Dog doing fervent loops around you, this approach affords many riders a broad foundation of basic skills that aren’t limited to the requirements of a single racing genre.
Old and Dirty
But I’m getting a little ahead of myself. The official birth of the Australian off-road scene took place on a warm night at the Maitland showground on the 15th of December, 1923. And while many international pundits from the US and the UK dispute this, it’s widely acknowledged that on this night, the first-ever speedway race in the world took place under the arena’s newly installed electric lights.
And it won’t surprise you to learn that – you guessed it – the local farmers were the ones on the bikes. Johnny Hoskins, the local who organised the yearly Agricultural show was looking for other events to broaden the event’s appeal. He noticed the local farmers on their bikes and speeds at which they were able to get across their paddocks, and the rest is history.
Horses for Courses
By the early 1970s, a full 25% of the 55,000 bikes purchased in Australia weren’t classed or registered as road-going vehicles, which really brings home just how large a part of the market the off-road sector was. Horses had been slowly replaced by farm bikes since the technology had come of age in the 1950s, meaning that it was easier and cheaper to maintain a bike than to pay for a horse’s feed and vet bills.
These ‘Ag’ bikes from the likes of BSA and other overseas firms were specially geared to allow riders to meander along while checking fences, rounding up sheep and to move cross country at the same speed as those on foot.
A ’70s Explosion
Following the global trend captured in Bruce Brown’s now famous ‘On Any Sunday’ starring Steve McQueen, the popularity of off-road riding in Australia exploded around this time, meaning that by the early 1970s, those suitably flush could partake in trail riding, enduro, sporting trials, moto-cross, minibikes and a whole raft of on-road moto pursuits, too.
And as supremely 70s as it may seem now, there was a growing interest in off-road trikes like the American-made ‘Dunecycle.’ Driven through a torque converter and made of lurid fibreglass, their ability to tackle most terrain with even the most basic of riders on board didn’t stop them from disappearing before the end of the decade.
Sand and Deliver
It’s also interesting to note that Sydney and her northern neighbor city, Newcastle, both had large, moto-friendly sand dunes nearby. With Kurnell to Sydney’s south and the Stockton Dunes to Newcastle’s north, the local inhabitants had free and easy access to sand riding right throughout the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s.
This included a dune buggy contingent that saw a ‘Baja Bug’ scene to rival the best that California or Mexico had to offer. After all, with a plethora of old VW Beetles available for chump change and the aftermarket parts scene booming, who in their right mind wouldn’t consider a little weekend sand sled to attract the opposite sex in their swimmers?
Scrambling for Meaning
But what about scrambling, you ask? Here’s the thing; scramblers weren’t always scramblers. ‘Scramble’ races were a popular event in the UK since the ’20s and ’30s, but in Australia – before the genre was really formalised – it was effectively split into two more discrete sports: trials riding and moto-cross. Australian publications from the ’70s seem to turn up very few, if any, mentions of the word.
Or maybe more to the point, the distinction between the various sports wasn’t completely clear, even to those taking part in them. I found this quote from a 1974 motorcycling publication, stating that ‘It is difficult to make clear distinctions between such events as ‘trials’, ‘sporting trials’, ‘scrambles’, ‘enduros’, ‘moto-cross and ‘cross country racing’ because there are shades of meanings, varying from State to State and even club to club.’
Of course, the last five years have seen a real renaissance of scramblers after the 21st Century cafe racing boom has had its run. This has also seen a crystallisation of the concept where previously there was much assumption, legends and endless photos of a very dusty-looking Steve McQueen. But if you’re anything like me, that’s got to be a good thing. Let’s face it; once you’ve been bitten by the dirt bug, too many moto off-roading options are barely enough.
Motorcycle jackets are one of those pieces of safety gear that it just makes sense to own. No matter if you live in a hot, humid, cold, or dry area, all roads possess the ability to be rather harsh to your skin should you ever go down. There are jackets designed for all four of those previously mentioned environmental conditions, and some of the best jackets possess the ability to handle more than one.
Since there really is no “one size fits all” type of motorcycle jacket, this list will not be ranked competitively. What we mean by this is that instead of counting down from 10 to 1, we’ll instead be showing the ten overall best motorcycle jackets for men, flat out. Simply choose the one that best suits your environment, and you’ll have many fun riding days ahead!
Alpinestars is a name that has been in motorcycle racing for a long time, and it shows with their gear. The Missile Air jacket is designed to be used for the street, yet it is made from race-grade 1.3mm cowhide leather, meaning that it offers the same level of abrasion protection that MotoGP and World SBK riders have. It is also fully perforated on the front and back, and meant to move a lot of air over the rider while carrying away heat and sweat.
In short, this jacket is meant for those who go fast, but also want to be comfortable doing so. Added protection comes in the form of CE-certified hard shell sliders on the elbows and shoulders, backed by dual-density foam over CE-certified armor on the innermost layer.
One of the best aspects about the Missile Air is that it is designed from the factory to be used with the Alpinestars TechAir Race airbag vest, which is worn under the jacket. The inner lining has attachment points so that the vest offers the best impact protection without the jacket riding up or moving around, and the jacket features a small LED panel on the left sleeve that gives riders status updates at a glance.
The only downside to the jacket is that while it does have a padded aerodynamic hump and a lower backslider, it does not include a back protector, even at this price. This is mostly because the TechAir Race has a CE level 2 back protector built-in, but if you do not use the vest with the airbag, you will need to source a separate one.
The Rev’It Cayenne Pro is one hell of an adventure jacket. ADV and dual-sport jackets have probably the crowd to please in all of motorcycling, as they have to be both extremely comfortable while providing protection against on-road and off-road hazards. On top of that, they are expected to also be three-season viable without being too complicated to switch between a summer jacket flowing a lot of air to a rainy day jacket that is waterproof.
Rev’It has designed the Cayenne Pro to check off all those boxes, and a few more that you probably aren’t thinking of. The biggest part is that the entire chassis of the jacket is 750D polyamide coated with Teflon coating. This textile, Rev’It’s own in-house design, feels like Cordura but contains 87% polyamide, 7% leather, and 6% polyester, giving it superb abrasion resistance while also making it reasonably penetration resistant as well.
The Cayenne Pro is 100% waterproof when all airflow vents are closed, and there are a few of them. This allows you to tailor the amount of air you want through the jacket, from none on a particularly chilly day to almost being a mesh jacket on super hot days. And throughout it all, this jacket carries Rev’it’s CE level 2 rated SeeFlex shoulder and elbow protectors, and a SeeSoft CE level 2 back protector.
For those that are serious about spending days, if not weeks, on a motorcycle, adventuring across the Australian outback, or touching all the big landmarks in South Africa, Klim has the jacket for you. The Adventure Rally Jacket is not for those looking to ride for a day, no. This is about as hardcore as you can get.
Using all the latest in material and protective technologies, the Adventure Rally is waterproof, windproof, stain-resistant, and shucks off salt, water, and biologicals that might get tossed into the air if you’re riding along a coastline near the sea. GoreTex interwoven with Armacor textile provides three layers of abrasion resistance and waterproofing, so even if you do take a spill and tear the outer layer, two more layers will still keep the integrity of the jacket.
The Adventure Rally also comes with a full complement of armor, all of it D3O CE level 2 or better, in the chest, shoulders, elbows, forearms, and full back. It has an internal kidney belt that helps the shoulders bear the weight of the jacket on the tops of the hips while also armoring the kidneys. A built-in, 3-liter hydration pack in the back is easily refillable, and contamination-proof when closed, with the drink tube able to be routed either internally or externally, depending on your preference.
Ten waterproof external pockets mean you can carry all the gear you need that’s too small to fit in your saddlebags or pannier lockers. Ventilation is also highly customizable with no less than 6 vent options, all closed and sealed by YKK zippers and waterproof GoreTex membranes behind the zips.
Yes, this jacket costs as much as a decent used dirt bike, but it is meant, as stated, to survive weeks, if not months, on an adventure. And for that, there is no better jacket.
The history of cafe racing personal protective gear is a bit of an interesting one, as cafe racers in the UK were the first riders to fully and truly wear head-to-toe protective gear, usually made of high-grade cowhide leather. It’s a good thing, then, that Merlin decided to not fix what’s not broken.
The Chase Cafe jacket is made of high quality, double- and triple-stitched cowhide, in varying thicknesses of 1.2 to 1.3 mm. The main chassis is backed by a smooth satin black fabric, with a removable thermal liner vest that weighs only 100g.
Keeping with the style and feel of the rock and roll racing era, the two-tone leather hides an impressive set of CE level 2 armor in the shoulders and elbows, with a back pocket in the liner designed to handle any of the top quality back protector inserts on the market, from D3O all the way to Nucleon and SeeSoft.
Also in keeping with the cafe history, all zips are high-quality YKK, with Merlin snap closures including a storm flap closure just under the collar if you want a little more airflow, or a full neck snap if it’s getting a little chilly. Other jackets made of the same materials, with the same level of protection, will cost you over $100 more, which makes the Merlin Chase Cafe jacket one of the best value-for-money options out there in today’s cafe jacket market.
“Wait,” we can hear you say. “That’s a jacket?” Indeed it is, although it is branded as a “riding shirt.” It may look like a slightly bulky cotton button-up, but that is underselling the serious protection that this jacket hides.
Looking like an average construction site work shirt, the exterior is made of 67% cotton and 33% polyester, although it is not on-brand Cordura. Instead, it is branded out as 12oz coated denim, which has about 300D ripstop equivalent. While that is not overly impressive, the 140GSM aramid knit backing to that denim is. Much like riding jeans, the aramid takes the brunt of the abrasion, with a ripstop rating of 1000D.
This is backed up with full Sas-Tec CE Level 2 armor, certified to EN 1621-1 performance, in the elbows and shoulder areas, held in by aramid and polyester lining. There is a pocket for a back protector at the rear of the shirt and will fit all major armor types in that pocket.
Hiding behind the front buttons, in case there was worry that the shirt might rip open during a slide, is a fully double-sewn YKK zipper. The collar has hidden snap-downs to prevent it from flapping in the wind, and there are belt loops hidden in the hem to keep the shirt from riding up during a slide as well.
All in all, if you want to look casual, but ride protected, REAX has a relatively inexpensive but amazingly protective riding shirt for you.
As easily seen in the top form of motorcycle racing, MotoGP, there really are only two houses of racing suits across the entire competitive field. One is Alpinestars, the other is Dainese. If there ever was a war for sportbike and supersport gear dominance, it is between these two companies. So it’s only fitting that while one of our top recommended sports jackets is Alpinestars, the other is one of Dainese’s best.
Instead of relying purely on cowhide for abrasion resistance, Dainese has invested a lot of research and development money into what is known as S1 Bielastic Fabric, developed in partnership with Cordura. While high-quality leather does make up a large part of the chassis, especially abrasion areas, it is backed by S1, and S1 is also used to form the stretch panels between leather panels. As well, the S1 in and of itself is equivalent to 600D ripstop and contains polyamides, polyester, and aramid fibers for the strongest, but most flexible, protection possible.
This allows for the jacket, which is relaxed just under a full race fit, to stretch and conform to the rider’s body without needing to be fully tailored to the rider. On top of that, the jacket features composite armor in the shoulders and elbows, with replaceable aluminum external slide points. The entire jacket is also CE Cat 2 certified, meaning it is a viable track jacket and passes all requirements to be worn for track days if you do not have a full suit.
Sometimes, riders want to have gear that serves as both protection while riding, and outerwear when they park up somewhere. While most jackets can feel a bit stuffy or even downright heavy when air is not flowing through them, Rev’It has balanced the Stealth 2 Hoody right on that razor’s edge.
In terms of protection, the Stealth 2 is made of triple-layer stretch Cordura, backed by a HydraTex pro waterproofing membrane. The elbows are reinforced with polyamide fabric to help with abrasion resistance and sliding. The shoulders and elbows are protected with Rev’It Seesmart armor, with a back protector pocket in the liner of the hoody.
In terms of outerwear, the Stealth 2 also comes with a detachable thermal liner that brings the jacket to a full three-season level of warmth and wearability. Being stretch Cordura, the hoody is also highly breathable, allowing sweat and moisture to wick away from the body. This means that when you arrive at your destination, you can wear the hoody as normal outerwear without having to lug around a heavy jacket.
The Scorpion EXO 1909 is a jacket that has both an interesting story and a specific design behind it. A cross between a sports jacket and a cruiser jacket, the 1909 in the name symbolizes the incorporation and opening of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, where throughout the years motorsports of both the two and four-wheeled varieties have taken place.
Made of distressed leather for a soft feel, it nonetheless offers over 1.1mm of cowhide abrasion protection. Sas-Tec CE level 2 armor is discreetly hidden in the shoulders and elbows, with a pocket in the rear for a Sas-Tec CE level 2 back protector. On the elbows specifically, extra leather overlays have been sewn in so that there is added protection on one of the most common slide points.
Zippered rear vents work in conjunction with discreetly hidden perforated underarm and flank panels. A removable thermal liner allows for both warm and cold weather riding. All of the zippers on the jacket are genuine YKK but in a special process antiquated brass look. The wrists are zipper closures with accordion stretch panels to create a good air seal for cruiser riding, and a good glove seal for sport riding.
The biggest thing with the EXO 1909 is not that it features a hell of a lot of protection, but that it does so while recreating the look and feel of an early 20th-century leather jacket.
Before anyone asks, yes, that is the actual retail name of this jacket. Roland Sands is a premium gear maker, and the [email protected]#k Luck definitely deserves the premium tag. Each jacket is handmade, and the entire jacket chassis is 1.1 to 1.3 mm thick premium cowhide, which is hand-finished in vegetable dye.
It comes with Knox CE level 2 armor at the shoulders and elbows, with a pocket for a back protector. All zips, as are common on high-quality jackets, are YKK. There are four mostly hidden vents, closed by zips, at the shoulders and middle of the back.
The jacket is water-resistant, with a waterproof internal device pocket. It is also articulated so that if you ride a supersport, a sportbike, an ADV, or even a cruiser, the jacket can move and adapt to each riding position without stretching or straining against your body. That alone makes it one of the best, and the fact that it technically qualifies as a track-wearable protective jacket is just the icing on the cake.
A lot of motorcycles live in places where it can get uncomfortably warm in many other types of jackets. This is why mesh jackets first started getting made back in the early 2000s. Evolutionary materials and engineering have brought what used to be bits of nylon stretched between leather panels into fully armored, abrasion-resistant, yet exceptionally comfortable modern mesh textile jackets.
Of these, Rev’It has the Ignition 3, possibly one of the finest examples of protection with maximum airflow. The third iteration, the base chassis is made of Monaco Performance cowhide leather, some of the best protective leather you can get in the world. Between the cowhide sections is tightly woven Dynax mesh, which is heat-resistant and deflects off as much heat as it allows air through, and also will not melt during a slide.
Backing up the Dynax is PWR I shell 500D stretch fabric in the arms and 600D waxed polyester in the torso. All of this is then backed with Lorica fabric. It may sound like a lot of layers, and it frankly is, but the fact is that you can hold this jacket up to a light with it fully closed and zipped up, and still see the light through it.
Because it’s Rev’It, and they over-engineer almost all their gear (which is a good thing!), there are two detachable liners, a full Hydratex 3L waterproof one, and a thermite liner in case it gets chilly. Protection comes in the form of full CE level 2 Seeflex armor on the elbows and shoulders, and there is a pocket in the back of the jacket for a Seesoft CE 2 back protector, which will fit D3O, Nucleon, and other armor types without issue.
If you need the best protection with the best airflow, Rev’It have you covered!
With promises of releasing as many as seven new models in India by August of this year, Chinese-owned Italian brand Benelli has been busy – and they’re about to drop a little treat for us rubberists.
According to RushLane, A new motorcycle with ties to both QJ Motors and Benelli has just been spotted in China via a spy shot – and it is expected that Qianjiang Motor will be releasing the new sportbike under the Benelli brand name.
As seen in the spy photo, the bike features a split seat setup, rear-set footpegs, and a clip-on handlebar, with a raised tail and compact upswept exhaust reminiscent of their 250cc superbike design.
Expected specs include a compact exhaust, USD forks at the front of the bike, a rear mono-shock, and a potential 500cc twin-cylinder motor – the same as the motor in Bellini’s Leoncino 500. It’s this last detail that has sparked rumors that the bike could sport ‘502R’ in the model name, rendering it the start of a new series.
Should the 502R harbor Leoncino’s motor, we would be looking at an engine with a hefty 46.8 bhp at 8500 rpm and 46 Nm of peak torque at 6000 rpm. That, coincidentally, would put the competition right up the alley of the Kawasaki Ninja 400 – and if it makes it across the seas, it will bring some throttle-twisting competition to today’s mid-range moto market.
Stay tuned for updates, and head over to WebBikeWorld for a peek at other comparable motors by Benelli.
“Well I mean first of all, we haven’t been here last year, a big step in bike development from the year before to last year we could not see on this track so it was very interesting for our boys to be here this weekend with a new generation of bikes,” began Beirer. “In general, everybody has respect for this track, the riders love it, a super high-speed place here and all in all a difficult track, but so far so good, we have had a good practice, we had a good first practice this morning – we had a plan with the rear tyre, we used a fresh one, we have a good pace so far.
Triumph has just partnered up with Beeline, a company that caters to two-wheeled navigation systems, to deliver an upgraded, industrial-strength navigation system with a minimalist design and laser-etched Triumph features, compatible with any motorcycle.
According to a report from AutoEvolution, the new navigation system hit the UK’s store shelves this past weekend and is anticipated to be a big hit – especially since this model is based on the trendy Beeline Moto device introduced back in 2019.
The system features an IP67 waterproof and shockproof case that sports the iconic ‘triumph-branded packaging’ and is said to fit any motorcycle handle – specifically, Triumph models (take your pick of models from this list curated on WebBikeWorld). Simply install the elasticated snap-mount onto your bike of choice, and the system locks in with an easy push and twist.
Should you decide that you can’t wait for the Triumph Beeline to make its way across the Atlantic, Beeline’s website currently has the original, non-Triumph “Beeline Moto” available for purchase – and if you really love the concept of the Triumph Beeline, the navigation company also carries modified systems outfitted for bicycles.
…Not that we’re especially keen to drop our motors and go for a pedal, but the option is there.
According to AutoEvolution, the system will be compatible with motorcycles in the UK, Europe, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and Japan.
Looking forward to when the Triumph Beeline makes its way to the Western Hemisphere – until then, long live Triumph!
After a one-day test with us after the 2019 Austria GP, Jason’s first official appearance was in January 2020 at the Hockey Open Air in Dynamo Dresden’s stadium, and in front of a crowd of almost 32,000. With two brilliant show runs, made possible by ADAC Sachsen, Jason Dupasquier brought a true, warming MotoGP™ atmosphere into the stadium with his Moto3™-KTM in freezing cold conditions. It was a first taste of German Grand Prix, our home GP at the Sachsenring.
The Chicamocha Canyon road meanders along the river before climbing atop the ridgeline of one of the world’s largest canyons. (Janelle Kaz/)
Growling, idling, waiting. Motorcycles continue to accumulate at the front, skirting double yellow lines to pass the long queue of larger vehicles, arriving at the nearest point to the boundary which separates the red from the green, the pause from the passage. With our animation suspended, a heightened sense of awareness falls over me, throwing every detail into stark relief. The breeze moving through the massive mango tree overhead, with its budding mangoes developing in grapelike clusters, the impatient air horn from a semitruck far behind me, and the reflective tape sewn into the pants worn by the single individual we all collectively stare at: a construction worker holding the red “Pare” (stop) sign. He stood ahead of us, apathetically holding our near future in his dust-covered hands. With throttles ready, we glared intently, watching for even the most subtle change in body language—any movement to indicate he’d be flipping the sign around to green “Siga.” We were like dogs before a race, panting in the heat and raring to chase down the ever-alluring reward of the open road.
This isn’t just any open road either, this is the gateway to the Chicamocha Canyon, a paved road draped across one of the planet’s largest and deepest canyons, located in the stunning eastern mountain range of the Colombian Andes.
After riding more than 10,000 miles through Colombia, I can say the Chicamocha Canyon road has made its way to the top of my “best paved roads” list. (Janelle Kaz/)
The paradoxical bright side of this construction bottleneck is that motorcycles all get to move to the front, allowing for the opportunity to peel away from the typical cargo-laden congestion of this arterial highway, accelerating along each bend of the river at your heart’s content.
Orange canyon walls contrast the deep blue skies of the desert ecosystem located in northeastern Colombia. (Janelle Kaz/)
The orange cliffs tower above the road as palm trees seem to morph into cacti before your eyes, the landscape shifting with every switchback as you descend into the desert valley below. Goats amble down the sheer rock face, as agile flycatcher birds swoop across the lane—right in front of your face. It’s as if this road was made for motorcyclists, laid upon the undulating earth like the tail of a resting anaconda.
Between the contrasts in elevation, vegetation, temperature, and the wildness of the canyon itself with the conservative colonial towns of Barichara and San Gil, there is no question this is one of the most scenic rides in Colombia. With so many beautiful rides to choose from in one of the most diverse nations on the planet, naming this as the “best paved road” is a heavily weighted statement. Taking notes from the “Sagan standard,” Carl Sagan’s aphorism that “extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence,” we’re uncovering just how deserving this phenomenal canyon ride is of that title. Far from the jungle, where true anacondas thrive, this is the tale of a mythic canyon motorcycle ride of a lifetime.
First, Acclimate
To start this journey, don’t be surprised if you find yourself emerging from the round hobbit-hole door of your accommodations, high upon a plateau. The patron saint of motorists awaits at the round table, which is likely to entail a substantial burger which—popular to the burger-crazed locals—may also contain a filet of chicken, bacon, and a side of pineapple marmalade. With nightly bonfires and artisanal, heirloom fermented beverages from a centuries-old guarapo recipe, “La Mesa Redonda” is a great place to start.
You’ll find hobbit-style houses, luxury “glamping” tents, and nightly bonfires at La Mesa Redonda on the plateau of La Mesa de Los Santos. (Janelle Kaz/)
The Ride
The adventure begins on the plateau, Mesa de Los Santos (Table of the Saints), at 5,600 feet (1,700 meters), before descending along a narrow, mountainside road partly built up on a stone retaining wall, tunneled by lush foliage draping overhead with golden views of the canyon below and Santander’s capital city, Bucaramanga. The road plunges down the plateau towards the Chicamocha river basin at roughly 1,900 feet (580 meters). The path follows that of the river, with sweeping, glorious curves carrying you through the canyon’s basin, edged by walls of vibrant orange rock dotted with hearty, desert-worn greenery. The past 100 million years or so are made evident by the surrounding cliffs towering above, the passive and persistent manifestation of a river steadily carving its way deeper. Once you pass the peaje (“toll booth;” which delightfully, motorcyclists don’t have to pay) and the bridge over the Umpala River, a steep climb carries you upwards through a series of hairpin turns. Ascending switchbacks take you towards the clouds, as cacti and herds of goats stubbornly stand their ground upon the steep slope of the twisting tarmac.
Above the canyon, the landscape drops off on both sides as you make your way along a ridgeline at 6,000 feet (1800 meters), with no shortage of stunning views and fast curves. The route begins to descend once again at the small town of Aratoca, leaving behind the succulents and opening up to mixed agricultural lands and forest laden-hillsides. Passing through the nation’s adventure sports capital, San Gil, the road banks along the southerly edge of the canyon, spilling out into the countryside, near the heritage town of Barichara. The pavement gives way to historic streets made from large cobblestones, lined by white-washed colonial homes with traditional terracotta roofs in what is known as “the most beautiful town in Colombia”. Continue westward across the conservative town until you reach the edge of Barichara, a perfect place to watch the sunset as it sets on the rugged and wild Yariguies Mountains and tiny village of Galan.
So What Makes This Colombia’s Best?
Let’s get to it. Here are more than a dozen pieces of evidence to back up this claim.
Good weather—As stated, the Chicamocha canyon is a desert environment. Therefore you have a higher likelihood of sunny, clear days throughout the year, which you simply can’t say about other top notch roads in the country. You’ve got a strong breeze at the base of the canyon, snaking along the Chicamocha River, and with high walls on both sides, this is the land of the noon-day sun. Higher up, warm, sunny days with cool, crisp nights are the norm. Sometimes there’s a bit of fog in the morning or at dusk, just in time for dramatic skies as the sun transitions above and below the horizon.
Nothing like a quick stop for a tropical juice at this epic viewpoint, Rincón de Chicamocha. (Janelle Kaz/)
Good pavement—It’s easy to take quality pavement for granted in more “developed” nations, but scenic lengths of smooth, winding asphalt away from the Panamerican Highway are hard to come by in Colombia (in reality, even the Panamerican has its fair share of rough sections). Sure, you’ll find perfectly level, pothole-free stretches of pavement on some of the newly built arterial roads (like the Ruta de Sol), but as I’m sure you know– the real joy is riding the outskirts, such as throttling the twisties of country roads rather than interstates. The road surface between Barichara and Mesa de Los Santos is by no means perfect, but it is of good quality. There are some spots on wide switchbacks between the river and the eastern rim of the Chicamocha Canyon that seem to have been rippled by heavy trucks or shifting topography (or both), but only in a few sections.
No shortage of fast corners and steep switchbacks on the beloved Chicamocha Canyon highway. (Janelle Kaz/)
Extraordinary views—It’s hard to beat the scenic views of this canyon, especially from the ridgeline where the landscape drops away on both sides. Consider yourself warned that the views may even choke you up a little; riding out to the overlook literally took my breath away. If you have a little time to spare at the top, by spending an evening at the Cabanas Campestres and/or taking flight on a paraglider, you’ll witness the kaleidoscope of light on the canyon walls, as the shadows and colors change dramatically throughout the day. Upon awakening in my cabana, I jumped up at first light just to see what the canyon looked like at that moment (and I’m not even a “morning person”) and was rewarded with a lightshow on the canyon’s western walls, illuminating the Mesa de los Santos plateau, where the journey began. It’s hard to beat how rejuvenating staying atop the canyon is; the fresh air, starry night sky and daytime colors are enrapturing.
Stopping for a quick tinto, a local coffee at the quaint little cafes run by sweet abuelas. (Janelle Kaz /)
Colonial towns—Ending the ride in Barichara is really the cherry on top, as this heritage town is known as the most beautiful town in all of Colombia. With views of Guane and the Yariguas mountains to the west, cobblestone streets and a romantic main plaza, adorned with an 18th century sandstone cathedral and lined with fragrant ylang ylang trees which bloom at night, this town is a national treasure. It’s no wonder why many Spanish-language movies and soap operas have been filmed here. I highly recommend taking a detour through Villanueva, which is famed by locals for their bizarre and delicious ice cream flavors. I went for the ice cream and scenic ride, but I ended up having two portions and making a pile of new friends, with the joyful people who were there for the same reason.
Barichara is a cultural heritage, a traditional colonial town that has changed very little over the last 300 years. (Janelle Kaz/)
Plenty of Curves—From Los Santos to Piedecuesta, the road twists along a narrow path from the high plateau down to the river. From there, you can really get some speed on a mix of straight lines and fast corners as you follow the path of the river, even before passing the toll booth and the bridge crossing the Umpala river. It is then that you begin a series of switchbacks that lead towards the ridgeline, the eastern rim of the Chicamocha canyon and its stunning vistas, followed by sweeping curves all the way down to San Gil and Barichara.
The Heladeria Nevado is very popular among locals for its unique and sometimes a little too bizarre ice cream flavors. (Janelle Kaz/)
The famed Helados El Nevado of Villanueva. I did not elect to try the Viagra or Levanta Muertos (dead-raiser) flavors. Prices are in Colombian Pesos, so at time of writing, the most expensive ones are less than 50 cents USD. (Janelle Kaz/)
Great Rest Stops—I love stopping at the small, roadside restaurant, Rincón de Chicamocha, for a “jugo de lulo,” a strangely acidic yet creamy juice made from a local fruit in the nightshade family. They have a large patio at the precipice of the canyon, with gusty winds and gorgeous views from your table, overlooking the mountains opposite the canyon. This is especially a great stop if you plan to spend the night in the canyon (highly recommended), because the turn towards the Cabanas Campestres is very sharp, so it’s best to come at the turn from the south. It’s really the perfect little stop to have a drink with some local food, and then head to your nighttime canyon abode for the sunset. There are plenty of little stops for coffee breaks and snacks along the way as well, especially as you get nearer to San Gil and Barichara, where cafes also double as sculpture gardens.
Colorful canyon views at the Cabanas Campestres lodging near the Chicamocha National Park entrance. (Janelle Kaz/)
Good Food—There is no shortage of fantastic food on the Mesa de Los Santos and Barichara. Santander in general has incredible gastronomy, with lovely street-food style snacks, such as the Colombian staples of empanadas, arepas, and a delicious banana leaf steamed cake, called “esponja,” in addition to a pile of gourmet dining options. I really loved the Piedra de Barichara, as I ate there three times, because it is such a lovely outdoor setting and the food is so simple and satisfying. They bring preferred protein out on a hot volcanic rock so that it continues to cook while you eat it. With sounds of exotic birds and a waterfall cascading into a pond, dappled light flickering through the trees and draping vines, this is really a lovely place to have a lunch or early dinner. Santanderenos are proud of their cultural heritage, and love telling all about what makes their province unique in Colombia, which ranges from eating strange things, like large-butt ants (hormigas culonas), to sweet, sundried oreada meat, which is more reminiscent of beef jerky than something you’d eat with a knife and a fork, making it the perfect snack to take on the road. If you’re staying in Bucaramanga before or after your journey, be sure to stop in at Penelope restaurant for some amazing Santandereano fusion dishes proudly made with local ingredients.
Just outside of the canyon are lush mountains, shielding the desert from rain. Many waterfalls cascade just off of the route, such as the Juan Curi waterfall located south of San Gil. (Janelle Kaz/)
Good Drinks—Colombia has a plethora of ancestral fermented drinks, such as chicha, guarapo, masato, and kumis, which is more of a yogurt, all tasty adventures within themselves. Chicha is traditionally made from corn, but you can also find it made from nearly every fruit. While in Mesa de Los Santos, I tried chica from the fruit of a palm tree, named corozo. I had actually seen a sign advertising “Chica de Corozo” in Barichara, but hadn’t taken the opportunity to try it, so I was elated to see it offered on the plateau as well. It was delicious, but not as drinkable as the guarapo, made from fermented fruits with the addition of cinnamon and cloves, according to a 100 year old heirloom family recipe. These drinks, along with delicious artisanal beer brewed by Medieval Brewing company (Belgian style), are available at La Mesa Redonda.
Plenty of Dirt Tributaries
There are numerous options for dirt road excursions along this route. Taking the roads towards the small towns of Cepita, Curiti, and the back way from Barichara to Zapatoca, are all perfect options for expanding this adventure into some dirt tracks.
You don’t have to stray far from the main route to find wonderful dirt roads to explore, such as this one near the ridgeline and Chicamocha National Park entrance. (Janelle Kaz/)
Great Lodging—There are many wonderful options, here are some recommendations:
La Mesa Redonda, with hobbit houses, glamping, and regional Colombian themed cabins, this is a fantastic spot for accommodations. They have a popular restaurant along with a myriad of activities, including a nightly bonfire under the stars.
Refugio de las Rocas: epic views of the canyon from your bed, and nearest to the epic rock climbing location of La Mojarra.
Cabanas Campestres: You can’t miss staying the night here up on the ridge of the canyon at these rustic yet cozy cabanas. Sunsets and sunrises are best here, and it is the perfect midway spot between barichara and the Mesa.
Cabanas alfarero: I adored staying at this family hacienda. It is outside of the town of Barichara, in a rural area whose family makes a living from making roof tiles the traditional way. They work the bulls to stomp on the clay and mix it with water, getting it to the perfect consistency before baking it in a huge underground kiln. The mother of the family kindly sewed my ripped pants for me. It was like being with family.
Casa de la Piedra: The guesthouse of a local sculptor, Javier Pinto Gomez, is unforgettable. His studio is an outdoor space behind the house, where he creates mind-blowingly beautiful sculptures. The view from his place is so romantic, the sun setting over the Yariguies mountains with rolling hills in the foreground. Once again, this spot is just a little ways outside of the colonial town of Barichara, a perfect five minute ride away from the town’s plaza.
Wonderful small towns along this route make for excellent tourism opportunities, such as the main cathedral in San Gil shown here. (Janelle Kaz/)
Friendly Locals—Colombians in general are some of the most friendly people on the planet. Santanderenos, in particular, are very easy going and welcoming. If you haven’t gathered how charming people from this province are from my first-hand accounts of having the matriarch of the family hand-sew my tattered pants, to making friends while enjoying strange flavors of ice cream, then you’re just going to have to experience their warm generosity and kindness for yourself.
Adventure Awaits—Santander is known as the adventure capital of Colombia, with an abundance of opportunity to steep your body in endogenous adrenaline. There’s white water rafting in the canyon’s river, rappelling down the nearly 600 foot waterfall of Juan Curi, spelunking, ziplining, paragliding, rock climbing, mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, and of course, motorcycling. The paragliding can be arranged at Cabanas Campestres, with the take off location a short walk from the cabanas. It’s the highest take off point in South America, so you are able to get an incredible view of the area by soaring among the birds at high elevation on rising thermals.
History and Culture—This canyon itself and the surrounding area is filled with fossils and ancient relics of past civilizations. The ride carries you through not just through this geologic feature, but also the ancient lands of the Guane, a tribe of skilled artisans who left behind a great deal of pottery, petroglyphs, and carved stones. Barichara has remained frozen in time for over 300 years, with locals dedicated to preserving the town’s heritage. People from Santander love their province and for good reason, there is a lot to behold here. In the late 1700s, farmers fought against unfair rulers in what is known as the Peasant Revolt. They are strong willed, joyful people, who enjoy sharing their culture and traditions with visitors.
Colombia is notorious for its construction stops along its roads, which can sometimes leave you waiting for far longer than is reasonable. (Janelle Kaz/)
So What’s the Catch?
The pitfall of this road stands firmly in it’s connection between Colombia’s capital city, Bogotá, and the growing city of Bucaramanga. This road is therefore notorious for heavy traffic, much of which are large trucks transporting cargo. It can be a real pain to overtake them along this road, and I find that once I’ve passed a whole string of them, I’m less likely to stop to enjoy the view or snap a photo because I don’t want to have to overtake all those trucks again. Colombia also has this annoying practice of “para-sigas”, stop and go’s, where they often keep people backed up waiting for much longer than is reasonable. However, there is a silver lining to this nuisance. When traffic is stopped for construction, motorcycles are able to pass all of the vehicles waiting in line, skipping ahead to the front. When the starting line is too packed with motorcycles, I’ve even stopped on the other side of the line to wait for the “go ahead.” That means that when they finally switch that baby around to green, you get the first shot at being ahead of everyone else, with a completely open and empty road ahead of you. The para-siga leaves you with an advantage, gracing you with the entire road to yourself, which really makes it an ideal situation; a blessing in disguise.
Is It Safe?
Ravaged by a violent past, no family escaped the tragic effects of a civil war which lasted more than 50 years. The country has since opened up for not only its citizens who are exploring their own nation for the first time, including internal refugees who were forced into the cities and now are traveling back to their rural lands, but to outsiders as well. A foreigner on a motorcycle would have been an extraordinarily rare sight 20 years ago, if not completely unfathomable—even after Escobar’s death.
Interestingly, the area around the Chichamocha canyon didn’t see the type of violence that existed elsewhere in the country. Because this is a desert ecosystem without trees for cover, guerrillas and paramilitary units didn’t dare conduct their clandestine business there.
It’s hard to explain to someone who doesn’t already know the magic of Colombia, from its diversity in landscapes to the friendliness of the people, because it’s something you have to experience to believe. Colombia has and continues to endure so much struggle as a country that is enriched with vast amounts of natural resources and impoverished by corruption.
As for my own two cents, after riding more than 10,000 miles around Colombia solo on a motorcycle—my love for this country and its people only grows. Colombia, and it’s “best paved road” are not perfect, but there are certainly many flawless moments to be had in truly living life to the fullest while exploring parts of the earth on two wheels, especially within the Chicamocha Canyon.
2021 Red Bull MotoGP Rookies Cup Round 3 – Mugello, Italy
Race 1
Japanese 15-year-old Taiyo Furusato only rode a KTM for the first time on Friday and had never seen Mugello before, however he took an incredible debut Red Bull MotoGP Rookies Cup victory regardless. He came out best from a 17 rider battle that started in spitting rain and ended with a cavalry charge to the line where he narrowly clung on to win.
Diogo Moreira crossed the line second ahead of David Muñoz but had exceeded track limits on the final circuit so was demoted one position. 15-year-old Spaniard Muñoz claimed the second step on the podium ahead of the 17-year-old Brazilian as a result.
That battle wasn’t follow-the-leader, it was major position changes throughout the race. Noah Dettwiler, the 16-year-old Swiss, climbed from the back of the pack to lead a Rookies race for the first time.
Pole man Marcos Uriarte meanwhile dropped to the back of the pack and the 16-year-old Spaniard ended up finishing 12th. Collin Veijer was brilliant at the front in the tricky early laps but the the 16-year-old Dutchman was 11th at the flag.
It was amazing battles all the way but Furusato’s victory stood out. The fact that he took the lead on lap four was sensation enough, riding the RC 250 R for the first time, but he didn’t look on the edge either. He smoothly held the advantage for a few laps before the slipstreaming pack demoted him.
It was as though he took time to reassess because when he hit the front again in the final laps he was even more certain and composed, he eked out enough of an advantage so that he could not be passed on the slipstream run to the line.
After winning the first four Asia Talent Cup races of the season he has now added a sensational Rookies Cup debut win.
New Zealand’s Cormac Buchanan finished 23rd.
Taiyo Furusato
“I’m so so happy, as you say, first race, first victory, first time at Mugello and on the KTM, all first, but I could win the race. In the race I could improve and everything felt perfect for me. Yesterday was the first time I had ridden a KTM but I found it’s positive points and the negative points, Today I could use the positive points and work with those.”
David Muñoz
“The race was very very good because yesterday was difficult for me. The feeling with the bike was not so good. Today it’s much better the feeling with the bike is good and I’m very happy with it. The track was OK, even with a little rain I had good feeling. Now we can focus on tomorrow and another good race.”
Moreira
“The race was very good. In the last laps I tried to push very hard because in the first laps I felt the rain and I was careful. Then I tried lap by lap to fight back, tried to get positions each lap. Finally, on the last lap, I got to second and tried to win the race but I touched the green, that’s the race. But I’m happy for the race and tomorrow we have a second one and let’s see. I think the weather will be better, and I will try to win the race.”
Daniel Holgado
“Today was an incredible race but more difficult than I expected. I did a good job through the race and the result is not bad but I am glad that we have another opportunity tomorrow. Tomorrow I will give more and get a better result. I have to say sorry to my fellow Rookie Mario Aji for the last corner.”
Race 2
David Muñoz snatched both the race win and the Red Bull MotoGP Rookies Cup points lead with a slipstream lunge in the final metres at Mugello in the second and final Red Bull Rookies Cup race of the weekend.
Previous points leader and fellow Spaniard Daniel Holgado had a handy advantage out of the last corner but the 16-year-old was swamped right before the line and crossed it fourth
Six KTM 250 Rs seemed to occupy just a couple of square metres as they flashed across the line. Colombian 15-year-old David Alonso was second ahead of Spanish 16-year-old Iván Ortolá.
Pole man Marcos Uriarte was chased by Matteo Bertelle – who had looked a likely winner as he led on the penultimate lap, however they finished fifth and sixth respectively.
The results show that just 0.173 seconds covered the top six. It had been a 17 KTM pack at the front until Race 1 winner Taiyo Furusato had a big moment half way round the last lap and split the group.
He recovered to finish 14th and it was Dutch 16-year-old Collin Veijer who led that group home in seventh, small consolation for having been a strong front runner again as he was in Race 1.
Improving in Race 2, Cormac Buchanan finished 18th.
Long on talent but very short on words, 15-year-old David Muñoz as usual almost looked a touch surprised to be interviewed as the victor in the winners enclosure.
David Muñoz
“It’s been an incredible weekend for me, 2nd position yesterday and victory today, so amazing, I have no words. It’s good to be leading the championship but I must just focus on the next races and think about that, it’s the only way to do it.”
David Alonso
“It was a positive weekend because it is a new track for me and little by little I got the confidence and found the good lines to do a good performance. This was a crazy race so I think that 2nd position is really good also because in the last races I wasn’t on the podium. So now we are back here again and this is so great for my confidence. I enjoyed this race a lot and now I am looking forward to Germany, another new track to enjoy.”
Ivan Ortolá
“It was a very hard weekend, in the first practice on Friday it was very difficult because it was my first time at this track and it’s a difficult track. But finally in the Qualifying I found a good feeling with the bike and I could take second position on the grid. The first race was very difficult because of the weather conditions, I made only the 10th position but it was a very very strong, very hard race. This race was very hard psychologically because you can be in the first position coming into the straight but at the end of the straight 10th or 11th. So I’m very happy because we made this podium, it is very important for the championship and I want to dedicate this race to Jason.”
Daniel Holgado now holds the standings lead on 71-points from David Alonso on 67, with Diogo Moreira third overall on 64-points. David Munoz is fourth on 58, while Alex Milan completed the top five.
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