My traveling companions Rich (left) and Joe (right) stop to admire one of the many farms we passed on this ride. (Photos by the author)
It had been years since I last explored the winding, scenic roadways of western Connecticut, but I fondly recalled the joy of cruising alongside rivers, through covered bridges and forests, and among farms and waterfalls. It was time for a return trip, and this 113-mile loop route certainly qualifies as a favorite ride.
I met two friends, Pathfinder Rich and Yamaha Joe, at the Putnam Diner in Patterson, New York, a few miles from the Connecticut border. Rich was riding his BMW K 1600 GTL, Joe was on his customized Yamaha Stryker 1300, and I rode my trusty Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT.
We crossed into Connecticut on a brilliant sunny day and began heading north on State Route 37 through forests and farms. We stopped at Great Hollow Nature Preserve, which encompasses 825 acres of wetlands, woods, and hiking trails, as well as a restored 18th century farmhouse used for environmental workshops.
It’s hard to beat a leisurely scenic ride with a couple of friends.
Back on the road, we enjoyed the clean, clear air and the soothing warmth of the sun. At Sherman, we continued north on State Route 39, passing by more farms and country estates. We made a stop at Greener Pastures, a farmstand that sells vegetables and pasture-raised meat produced on-site at the idyllic, 100-year-old Happy Acres Farm.
Continuing our northward path, we turned east on State Route 55 for a few miles to Gaylordsville, then turned north on U.S. Route 7 and crossed the Housatonic River. We cruised alongside the river to Bulls Bridge Road, where we took a brief detour to ride through Bull’s Bridge, which was built in 1842 and is one of three historic covered bridges in Connecticut.
Originally built in 1760, the extant Bull’s Bridge was built in 1842. It’s one of the few historic covered bridges remaining in Connecticut.
We cruised through the small riverside town of Kent, which has quaint shops, galleries, restaurants, and the authentic feel of 19th century New England.
Next, we stopped to stretch our legs and to admire the view at Kent Falls State Park, where the Kent Falls Brook cascades 250 feet as the cool, clear waters make their way to the Housatonic. Rather than climb the trail to the top of the falls, we turned our attention to two trikes in the parking lot: a silver Gold Wing and a bright orange Rewaco – one of the wildest machines we’d ever seen.
Kent Falls State Park showcases a dramatic 250-foot waterfall that tumbles down a series of cascades.
We continued our cruise up U.S. 7 along the Housatonic, crossing the river at the town of Cornwall Bridge. On the other side, I spotted a beautiful white clapboard country church. The St. Bridget Church, built in 1883, is typical of churches in rural western Connecticut. Its serene setting next to the river tempted us to stay longer, but we had to answer the call of the road.
Built in the late 1800s and beautifully preserved, St. Bridget Church is part of Saint Kateri Tekakwitha Parish.
A few miles farther north, we crossed the Housatonic again via State Route 128, riding through the 172-foot-long West Cornwall Bridge, another historic covered bridge that was built in 1864.
As far as covered bridges go, the historic West Cornwall Bridge is a long one at 172 feet.
After riding back across the bridge, we followed U.S. 7 north again to North Canaan, where we had lunch. For our return route south, we made a counterclockwise loop via U.S. Route 44 and State Routes 41 and 4 back to the town of Cornwall Bridge. We enjoyed cruising through the quilted land of farms, lakes, forests, and villages, where there was something new to see around every corner and bend.
South of Cornwall Bridge, we took State Route 45 to Lake Waramaug, which is surrounded by low-lying mountains and picturesque country homes. We circumnavigated the lake on a winding route that included North Shore Road, Lake Waramaug Road, and West Shore Road before returning to SR-45. Two state parks adjacent to the 656-acre lake offer plenty of recreation opportunities.
The bright orange color and unique design of the Rewaco trike caught our eyes.
Since the day was growing late, we left the beautiful lake behind and started our journey home. Heading south on U.S. Route 202, we crossed the Housatonic again near New Milford and backtracked on U.S. 7 to SR-37 and New York.
Riding along the weaving roads, the cool, late afternoon air was invigorating. As the sun washed the landscape with color, I was glad I had made it to western Connecticut again. Its many beautiful sights and pleasant backroads make for an enjoyable and interesting ride.
Kenneth W. Dahse is a writer and photographer from northern New Jersey and a regular contributor to Rider. Ken has been riding since he was a teenager, and his favorite rides are relaxed multiday excursions.
Copper Harbor is an adventure gateway town located at the northern tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula. (Photo courtesy Adobe stock)
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, which sits above Wisconsin and separates Lake Superior from Lake Michigan, is an often-overlooked haven. Its combination of rugged mountains, lush forests, coastal scenery, and rich history make it one of my favorite places to explore. There are hundreds of miles of winding roads – both paved and unpaved – that make the U.P. ideal for motorcycling.
The Keweenaw, a smaller peninsula extending from the U.P.’s northern shore, is quintessential and fully embodies the character of the region. From its mining heritage to its natural beauty, Keweenaw has much for visitors to explore and enjoy. This is especially true when on two wheels.
The Keweenaw Peninsula is a beloved place for me. It’s where I lived for a few years while finishing my undergraduate degree. It’s also where I took some unforgettable camping trips and where I met and later married my wife. I’m not the only one who holds an affinity for the region; it seems that everyone who experiences the Keweenaw comes away with fond memories.
The Portage Lake Bridge connects the sister cities of Hancock and Houghton. (Photos by the author)
If you find yourself looking for a weekend getaway, the Keweenaw is a great candidate destination. It’s also a must-visit area during longer explorations of the U.P. For those considering a trip, I recommend reading David Mac Frimodig’s book Keweenaw Character: The Foundation of Michigan’s Copper Country, which offers an interesting history of the region.
Evidence of the Keweenaw Peninsula’s copper mining history is found in many places, like the former smelting facilities near Hancock and Houghton. (Photo courtesy Adobe Stock)
Mining is one of the most defining historical influences on the region, literally running right through the landscape. There was a time in the early 20th century when the region, nicknamed “Copper Country,” was the largest copper producer in the world. There are many tours, historical sites, museums, and mines that teach visitors about the technical, cultural, and environmental impacts of this era. The stamp-sand beaches near the town of Gay are collisions of nature and history, where mine tailings remain from the high-volume production.
(Photo courtesy Adobe Stock)
The sister cities of Houghton and Hancock, which sit on opposite sides of the Keweenaw Waterway in the middle of the peninsula and are connected by the Portage Lake Lift Bridge, are the perfect home base for any U.P. trip. The history and charm of the area are always on display. Hotel options range from basic to fancy, and there are unique bars, restaurants, and shops. Tours of the Quincy Mine, Michigan Tech hockey games at the MacInnes Student Ice Arena, and pizza at the Ambassador Restaurant are just a few of my favorite activities.
From Houghton/Hancock, circling the Keweenaw by hugging the shoreline as closely as possible on paved roads is a 200-mile journey. The entire route is scenic, but the stretches on Gay Lac La Belle Road, M-26 out of Copper Harbor, and M-203 along the Portage Canal are especially enjoyable. Traffic is usually minimal, and road surfaces are predictable.
Keweenaw National Historic Park in Calumet tells the story of mining in the region. (Photo courtesy Adobe stock)
Starting on the Keweenaw’s western flank in Ontonagon, M-38 takes you east to M-26, a state highway that runs the length of the peninsula. For 37 miles, M-26 winds its way through rolling hills and the Baraga State Forest Area and passes the twin lakes of Roland and Gerald before reaching Houghton. After crossing the Keweenaw Waterway, turning west on M-203 hugs the waterway’s shore as it turns north toward Lake Superior and passes through FJ McLain State Park.
M-203 then turns east to Calumet, a small village that was once the center of Michigan’s copper industry and is another option for overnight stays on the peninsula. For lodging, Rider contributor Chuck Cochran recommends the AmericInn, which has clean, reasonably priced rooms and is within walking distance of restaurants, shops, and the Keweenaw National Historic Park, which highlights the area’s 7,000-year history of copper mining.
Eagle River flows into Lake Superior on the northern coast of the Keweenaw Peninsula. There’s a dramatic waterfall near the mouth of the river, as well as a historic lighthouse that is now a private residence (it’s available for vacation rentals via Vrbo).
Continuing north on U.S. Route 41 for a few miles to Ahmeek, turning west on Wright Street and right on Bollman Street puts you on 5 Mile Point Road, which runs north for a few miles before hugging the northwest shore of the peninsula and joining M-26 near Eagle River, a former mining community with a lighthouse that operated from 1854 to 1908. The impressive Eagle River Falls are visible from the M-26.
From Eagle River, M-26 follows the shore of Lake Superior, and it’s only a few miles to Jacob’s Falls, another scenic waterfall on the peninsula. Be sure to stop at the Jampot (open seasonally), where monks from Poorrock Abbey sell a variety of all-natural products made from locally sourced ingredients. They were even featured on an episode of Gordon Ramsay’s Uncharted TV show!
Stamp‑sand beaches near Gay are made of mine tailings.
Ride a few more miles to George Hite Dunes and Marshes Preserve and then the town of Eagle Harbor. As the Keweenaw Peninsula bends to the east – its overall shape looks like a dolphin’s dorsal fin or a cresting wave – the M-26 runs due east to Copper Harbor, another great destination town near the peninsula’s tip.
Although home to only 136 residents, Copper Harbor is an all-season tourist and adventure town that caters not only to motorcyclists but also to hikers, mountain bikers, boaters, anglers, snowmobilers, skiers, birdwatchers, and rockhounds. It’s also a launch point for boat trips to Isle Royale National Park. The village has shops, restaurants, a microbrewery, and a general store. The Mariner North is a full-service resort in Copper Harbor with a lodge, motel, cabins, restaurant, and game room.
Haven Falls is located near Mount Bohemia and Lac La Belle.
Near Copper Harbor is Brockway Mountain Drive, a favorite road that gives an accessible window onto the unique landscape of the U.P. Claimed to be the highest above-sea-level drive between the Rockies and the Alleghenies, this nine-mile road along the ridge of Brockway Mountain climbs to 1,320 feet above sea level, which is 720 feet above the surface of Lake Superior. Popular among sightseers and birdwatchers, the road was built in the early 1930s as one of President Roosevelt’s public works projects to provide employment at a time when the local mining industry was in decline and the Great Depression had the economy firmly in its grip. The Michigan Civilian Conservation Corps adopted the project, and the results are still enjoyed today.
To complete the shoreline loop, from Copper Harbor take U.S. 41 south to Guy Lac La Belle Road, which goes south to Mount Bohemia, a 1,465-foot peak that’s a popular place to snow ski, and Haven Falls, a small waterfall that’s surrounded by picnic tables, making it the perfect place to stop for lunch. The road hugs the shore of Lac La Belle and passes through the Bete Grise Wetlands Preserve on its way to the southern shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula. At Traverse Bay, Rice Lake Road takes you to Torch Lake and then M-26 at Lake Linden for the last few miles back to Hancock.
The summit of Brockway Mountain Drive provides sweeping views of the northern tip of the peninsula.
Crossing the Portage Lake Lift Bridge again, U.S. 41 follows the southern shore of the Keweenaw Waterway, which includes Portage Lake. It then runs along the edge of Keweenaw Bay to L’Anse.
A tour of the entire Upper Peninsula takes several days or longer. There are many more miles of riding along the shores of Lake Superior and Lake Michigan, extensive state and national forest areas, unique destinations such as the Pictured Rocks National Seashore and Tahquamenon Falls State Park, and vibrant cities such as Marquette, Sault Ste. Marie, and Escanaba.
U.S. Route 41 runs for nearly 2,000 miles from Copper Harbor, Michigan, to Miami, Florida. (Photo courtesy Adobe Stock)
The Keweenaw is a special place to me. Its geographic location lends itself to striking scenery and landscape. Getting there in a few hours is possible from larger Midwest cities like Minneapolis, Green Bay, Madison, Milwaukee, Duluth, and Grand Rapids. Its history gives it character, a culture entirely unique that still emanates from its communities. The memories I’ve been fortunate enough to make there are some of my most cherished. It’s no wonder why it’s such a great place to be on a motorcycle. I hope you can experience it from behind your handlebar. Maybe you’ll fall in love with the Keweenaw too.
A Midwest-based motorcycle enthusiast and freelance author, Joel Komurka combines a passion for classic bikes with storytelling. Specializing in writing about motorcycle culture, travel, and history, he brings a unique perspective to the world of vintage motorcycles through his engaging articles and personal experiences.
The historic Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, one of many historic stops along this East Tennessee motorcycle ride, is surrounded by steep mountainous terrain and thick vegetation. It’s beautiful to look at but inconvenient for prisoners with hopes to escape. (Photos by the author and Jake Williams)
As my husband, Jake, and I packed our saddlebags for a three-day East Tennessee motorcycle ride in the 9 Lakes Region, I realized it would be our first multiday motorcycle journey together. A Saturday cruise on local roads is common for us, but this was new territory.
Day 1: To the Gap
As we exited at Harriman, the tree tunnel of I-40 was shed for the characterful scene of an East Tennessee small town. Mom-and-pop shops and restaurants lined the road, and buildings were brightly painted with murals displaying the town’s history and culture.
Norris Dam was the first major project of the Tennessee Valley Authority.
Harriman’s streets were soon replaced with riverside riding along the Emory and Clinch rivers. We followed the rivers toward Norris Lake, where we stopped at Hickory Star Marina in search of some grub.
We’d picked an oppressively hot weekend for our trip. Luckily, ice-cold sweet tea flows here like the area’s many rivers, and we had a glass in our hands on the marina’s dockside patio in no time, followed by sandwiches. Norris Lake gleams with a vibrant turquoise resulting from the lake’s depth and purity.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1, Day 2, or Day 3 to view routes on REVER
We continued north, where the road often rose onto a ridge to reveal views of tree-covered mountainsides before dipping down into refreshing shade alongside cool creeks.
We reached Cumberland Gap with time to explore the town before supper. Our lodging for the night was the Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast, built in the late 1800s along a burbling stream that runs through the town.
The Olde Mill Inn in Cumberland Gap was built in the late 1800s and offers a unique step back in time.
Cumberland Gap is the kind of place an artist would use as a retreat to find inspiration and tranquility. We strolled the town, which is surrounded on all sides by Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, and hiked up to Tri-State Peak, where Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky meet. Although the hike was short, it was steep enough to renew our appreciation for our favorite mode of transportation, and we gained respect for the people who used this path to traverse the Appalachians long before the invention of motorized travel.
The Olde Mill Inn is built alongside the stream that runs through Cumberland Gap
We slept well that night and woke up to a delicious and filling breakfast served at the long dining table on the inn’s main floor. After pleasant chats with other visitors over coffee, we were on the road again, this time heading south.
A short hike from Cumberland Gap took us to the Tri‑State Peak, where Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia meet.
Day 2: Carving a Trail
The road toward Tazewell offered gorgeous morning views across the mountains, which its gentle curves and good visibility allow riders to take full advantage of.
We continued through Bean Station and White Pine before taking an exploratory journey in search of the Rankin coaling tower. A remnant of the time when trains were powered by steam, this tower is one of few remaining.
En route to find the Rankin coaling tower, Jake’s Ryker Rally got to play in some gravel along the railroad tracks.
We climbed the steep one-lane Rankin Hill Road and then dropped down toward Douglas Lake. We followed the lake north until the road turned to rough gravel, on which I didn’t feel confident testing my nonexistent off-road skills on the Honda Rebel 1100T DCT cruiser. Jake was happy to continue on his Can-Am Ryker Rally for a mile or so while I guzzled water beside the railroad tracks. I was content to take a break for the first five minutes. After 10, I started missing the breeze through my mesh jacket. After 15, I became worried.
This was as close as Jake could get to the tower.
Apparently knowing the exact amount of time I’m willing to wait before embarking on a search-and-rescue attempt, Jake finally rode back into view. He’d found some locals fishing by the lake who told him where to see the tower in the distance, but he would’ve had to wade through shallow water to get near it.
Back on track, we continued to Norris Dam State Park, where we parked in front of Clinch River Brewery beside other motorcycles to have lunch. Just down the road from the brewery and across the dam, an overlook provided a scenic spot to digest our food.
Jake and I enjoy the view from an overlook above Norris Dam.
On Old Tennessee 63 heading north, we enjoyed a pleasant and shaded ride alongside Cove Creek and railroad tracks before heading west through Huntsville and on to our destination for the evening, Rugby.
As the speed limit decreased on the way into Rugby, we saw a sign warning us to use caution and slow down for Irish road bowling. I wondered if Jake was as perplexed as I was. My guess was some sort of construction project.
The whole town of Rugby comes out to enjoy Irish road bowling.
Among the town’s historic Victorian buildings, residents of all ages crowded the main street, some with large balls in hand, some with tall poles, and many waving at us as we rode by. As we approached the action to investigate, a man named Tony welcomed us.
The buildings in Rugby preserve their Victorian-era architectural style, including the old schoolhouse seen here.
Tony explained that Irish road bowling is a game in which teams attempt to roll heavy cannon balls from one point in the road to another point farther away, then back to the original point. The team to make it back to the original point in the least number of rolls wins the game. As he talked, the townsfolk cheered and rooted for their teams. Tony displayed what we came to recognize as a common trait among the people here: a welcoming attitude that makes strangers feel like friends and family.
When the game was over, we continued about a mile to Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast, where owner Linda Brooks Jones greeted us. Supper was ready, so we quickly washed the road off and headed down to the dining room.
An overnight stay at Grey Gables is a special experience.
Over a delicious meal of zucchini soup, homemade bread, salad, boneless pork chops with carrots and broccoli, and bananas foster, all washed down with iced almond tea, we enjoyed conversation with the other guests gathered around the table. While we had dessert, Linda joined us and told us more about the town, which was founded as a place for the second sons of the English gentry – those who would not inherit the bulk of their family’s fortune – to live in tranquility. I can see why this place was selected for a life of peace and leisure.
At Grey Gables, we slept in the same room that Jimmy and Rosalynn Carter had once stayed in. The whole house was clean and inviting, including the spacious porches and common areas.
Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws
The next day would be the most historic of our trip, including places of somber importance as well as locations of vibrant culture. Our first stop was just down the road at the R.M. Brooks store.
After a delicious breakfast, we followed Linda to her family’s store. Now run by Linda’s daughter, R.M. Brooks was built in 1930 and is a prominent meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. Linda was happy to play tour guide, pointing out the attached house where her grandparents had lived and telling us more of the store’s rich history.
The R.M. Brooks store has been a gathering place for residents and visitors alike for generations.
After promising Linda that we’d be back in time for supper, we continued south through Wartburg and on to Harriman. We learned that Harriman, known as “The Town that Temperance Built,” was founded in 1891 as an ideal industrial city built on foundational values of sobriety, exalted character, and learning. Although its founding core tenants sound somewhat restrictive, the town is lively and vibrant.
Looking for something cool to drink, we stopped in at The Sweet Spot and were greeted by a man named Blake, who pointed out historical photos on his shop’s walls as he answered our questions about the town. We bought a couple RC Colas and a small loaf of banana nut bread to enjoy as we strolled by the historic places Blake had recommended, like the grand Temperance Building and the historic Cornstalk Heights district.
At the R.M. Brooks store, Linda slices us some hoop cheese, a tasty Southern staple.
When we finished our snack and walk, we saddled up again. Remembering our promise to Linda, we didn’t spend too long at the next three historic stops on our trip, which included the 18th-century Fort Southwest Point, the Wheat Community African Burial Ground, and the town of Oak Ridge, famous for its role in the Manhattan Project.
About 27 miles north of Oak Ridge, we found ourselves at Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a historic prison nestled among mountains covered in thick growth, making escape nearly impossible, which James Earl Ray, who assassinated Martin Luther King Jr., discovered in 1977.
The structures in Fort Southwest Point are being reconstructed on the foundations of the original buildings.
Next up was the best road of the trip, State Route 116, one part of the popular Devil’s Triangle loop. We rode the curviest section, which rivals the Tail of the Dragon with challenging corners and exciting twists. It was also less populated than the Dragon tends to be, allowing us to enjoy it at our own pace.
When the road came to an end at an intersection by a creek, our preplanned route told us to go left, which would take us along a gravel road. From what I could see, the road looked smooth enough, so we continued on, hoping it would turn back to pavement soon.
It did turn to pavement…in about 10 miles. By the end, we were covered in a layer of white dust and had lost time. After brushing off the dust as best as we could, we continued to our last historic stop of the day, the Scott County Jail in Huntsville, where we arrived a few minutes after closing.
Our bikes and ourselves needed a thorough bath after an unexpected gravel adventure during this East Tennessee motorcycle ride.
We were disappointed to miss this tour, since we’d heard the owners of the jail are two women motorcyclists, and we’d hoped to chat with them. If a plan to return to the area had been only a vague thought at the start of the trip, it was now a certainty.
We kept our promise to Linda and made it back to Grey Gables in time for another delicious meal and friendly conversation around the dining table. At the end of the evening, Linda gave us a hug and a copy of her cookbook, The Table at Grey Gables. As a thunderstorm washed the dust off our bikes, we settled in for a good rest.
We were sad to miss the chance to tour the historic Scott County Jail. We’ll get to it next time!
A Journey Home
The next morning, we had another fantastic breakfast before packing our saddlebags for a final time. We said our goodbyes and rolled out. As the mountains depressed into gentle rolling hills, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t disappointed to be headed home. Instead, I was excited to recall the many conversations and memories Jake and I would share about our first weekend-long motorcycle trip together, and I was happy that I’d be able to write this story to look back on many years from now.
Riders on Kudzu Curve on Back of the Dragon (SR-16). (Photos by the author)
While many Southern towns have struggled with the disappearance of anchor industries, some have bounced back on a rising tide of renewal and resurgence. One such town is Tazewell (pronounced TAZZ-well), located in the heart of southwestern Virginia’s slice of the Appalachian Mountains and my destination for this Virginia motorcycle ride.
Founded in 1799, Tazewell was a thriving coal-mining town for nearly a century. When the coal industry declined, so did the town’s fortunes. But the downturn was short-lived. A shared love of twisty roads has been breathing new life into Tazewell, which has become a destination for motorcycle and car enthusiasts alike.
For those who love curves, the primary draw is Back of the Dragon, the 32-mile section of State Route 16 that claims 438 curves and 3,500 feet of elevation change as it winds south from Tazewell to Marion. I took a long solo ride from my home in Kentucky to ride the Back of the Dragon and to enjoy the third annual Old Town Revival, a weekend-long rally held in June.
Motorcycles lined up in Tazewell for the Old Town Revival.
After a loosely curvy ride via state highways on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300, I pulled up to my home away from home, the Farmhouse Suite (see sidebar below). This deluxe hotel suite is in the bottom level of the Haus of Taylor art gallery, which displays fine art and curated goods.
The author at Back of the Dragon Brewery.
Famished after my long motorcycle ride, I took advantage of the suite’s central location and walked downtown. Several restaurants are nearby, including Bee Noodle’d, with bright, bee-themed decor and a friendly staff.
Back of the Dragon Brewery.
The restaurant is known for their local ingredients, particularly honey, so I ordered one of their specialties, the Bee Mac: homemade white-cheddar mac ’n cheese topped with crispy honey-teriyaki chicken. A perfect blend of sweet, creamy, and tangy, it was comfort food at its finest, washed down with a refreshing Bailee’s Famous Lemon Bee honey-infused lavender lemonade.
After eating, I continued strolling down Main Street through Tazewell’s charming downtown to the Back of the Dragon Brewery. Festivities for the Old Town Revival rally, a motorcycle and car enthusiast gathering, were already underway. Cruise-ins, stunt shows, live music, derby races, Harley-Davidson giveaways, dyno testing, tattoo artists, vendors, and much more were available for anyone to enjoy.
Kudzu Curve, one of the many named curves and corners on the 32-mile Back of the Dragon, comes by its name honestly, with hillsides covered in the creeping vine that has all but taken over parts of the South.
The purpose of the OTR is to draw folks to Tazewell by giving them a venue to engage with and enjoy their favorite pastimes with fellow enthusiasts. The event’s slogan is “Ride ’Em or Drive ’Em,” and all brands and types of vehicles are welcome. Motorcycles lined the streets as live music played from a stage. Vendor booths dotted the strip leading up to the BOTD Brewery, where a huge dragon sculpture is ready for photos to prove you rode (or drove) the famous route.
Inside the brewery is a wide array of merchandise and memorabilia. I hadn’t ridden the Back of the Dragon yet, so I skipped the merch until I earned my bona fides. After enjoying the sights and sounds of the rally, I walked back to the Farmhouse Suite and lounged amongst the stylish and tasteful decor, enjoyed a decadent soak in the rainfall shower, and fell asleep in the king-size bed. This suite was going to spoil me!
Back of the Dragon climbs over three mountain ranges.
Early the next morning, I rode my Versys to the start of the BOTD route. The REVER app said it should take 56 minutes to complete the 32-mile section of SR-16, which is an average of 34 mph even though the posted speed limit is 55 mph. That was my first clue I was in for a challenge.
The BOTD route works its way up and over three mountain ranges, and it is full of exhilarating, winding curves of all shapes, sizes, and types. Of the 438 curves, some have names like Kudzu Curve, Cliff Hanger, Zero Gravity Curve, First (and Second) Dragon Slalom, Lazy Dragon, and a series of them named after a dragon’s head, elbow, wing, and knee.
Burke’s Garden is a rural historic district in Virginia’s highest valley, nicknamed God’s Thumbprint.
Some of the large, sweeping curves can be ridden at 55 mph, but be prepared to get on the brakes as many others are blind or tighten up and are signposted at 15 or 25 mph. After enjoying the back-and-forth slaloms, tight switchbacks, and fast sweepers, I arrived in Marion, where SR-16 ends at U.S. Route 11.
Taking the BOTD back north provides an entirely new ride. I found myself weaving through turns on one mountain, then riding straight through rolling farmland with beautiful views as I prepared for my ascent onto the next mountain.
Part of Burke’s Garden Road is a narrow gravel byway that zigzags over a mountain ridgeline and intersects the Appalachian Trail.
The weather on my trip was perfect, and with SR-16 being nearly flawless in terms of pavement quality, I could focus on the turns without worrying about bumps and potholes.
After my first two passes on the BOTD route, I returned to BOTD Brewery for lunch. The OTR rally was in full swing. Motorcycles lined Main Street far off into the distance, and people were meandering around, checking out custom motorcycles and chatting with other bikers. Battling the dragon worked up an appetite, so I got into line to get a slice of wood-fired pizza. Others poured ice-cold beers from the self-service taps.
This is the vista from the Million Dollar View section of Back of the Dragon.
Walking around the brewery grounds, I checked out the Harley-Davidson motorcycles that were being offered for giveaways and competitions. Vendors sold T-shirts and leather items, and one would even repair your leather vest or jacket with an onsite sewing shop. Samples of energy drinks were handed out, and live music set a vibrant tone for the event.
Finishing my pizza, I went inside the brewery to purchase my hard-earned BOTD merch. The brewery started to clear out as rally participants went on to the fairgrounds to watch the stunt shows and derby car events. I opted to ride the BOTD route a few more times instead.
After the challenging ride over the ridgeline on the gravel road full of switchbacks, I was rewarded with a pastoral view of Burke’s Garden.
For my next few BOTD passes, I decided to stop at all the overlooks. The first was Kudzu Curve, a long sweeper surrounded by the climbing kudzu vine found throughout the South. A bit farther sits the Million Dollar View overlook, with a wide-open vista across the mountains and surrounding countryside.
My next stop was Hungry Mother State Park, where I checked out the beautiful lake scenery and wooden cabins. A highlight of this state park is the lake’s beach, so I walked over to the sandy promenade and admired the blue sky reflected on the placid surface. Without a swimsuit – and guessing that Kevlar-lined motorcycle gear wouldn’t be the best beach attire – I headed back, glancing back green-eyed at the cool water.
A few miles north of Marion, Back of the Dragon passes through Hungry Mother State Park, which has a lovely swimming lake with a sandy beach.
After another night of sleeping in luxury, I woke up with a long ride in my future. Bounding through the peaceful Virginia countryside lined with residences, antique barns, and farming equipment, I passed through Saltville before crossing over BOTD again. My route would follow a road that appeared on the map to be extremely twisty before ending in Burke’s Garden, a valley known for its views and Amish heritage.
My route to Burke’s Garden via State Route 623 included a single-lane gravel road. While I had ridden on gravel before, I’m not an experienced off-road rider. I pressed on, and it wasn’t until I got to that first 180-degree uphill hairpin that I realized this was the curvy section of road that I had seen on the map.
During the Old Town Revival motorcycle and hot rod rally, hundreds of bikes cruise and park on the streets of downtown Tazewell.
As I rode through hairpin after hairpin on gravel, dirt, and rock, I focused on my training. I breathed and loosened my death-grip on the handlebar. I turned my head to look through the sharp turns and positioned my body to ensure I didn’t turn wide and drop off the steep edge. When one hairpin turned downhill, causing me to gain too much speed for comfort, I remembered to gently press the back brake instead of the common tendency to forcibly grab the front. Then – suddenly – I was on pavement again! I let out an exclamation of joy.
A few miles later, I was in the “bowl” of Burke’s Garden, sitting on the stoop of the Amish General Store enjoying the mountains surrounding me. Resting and snacking, I was grateful for the gravel road experience and the beautiful views, even if it was nerve-wracking. I was also grateful that I would be heading back to Tazewell a different way!
The next OTR, which will include live music, stunt shows, parades, vendors, and more, will be held June 5-8, 2025. Full details are available at BackOfTheDragon.com.
Riding a fun, paved twisty out of Burke’s Garden, I arrived at BOTD Brewery and looked forward to the prospect of more pizza. This time, I ordered the specialty Kudzu Pie, a white pizza with caramelized onion, arugula, and a phenomenal balsamic drizzle. While enjoying the crust, with that chewy bite and rustic, smoky flavor of true wood-fired pizza, I learned the history from the director of BOTD Brewery, Beth Takach, and her father, the man behind it all, Larry Davidson.
Larry, a long-time motorcyclist and even longer resident of Tazewell, had always known how special SR-16 was. He believed it could be a destination for motorcycle lovers around the world. Armed with a dozen T-shirts, he approached other motorcyclists over a decade ago, gauging their interest in the area’s riding. When he sold out that day, he knew that others loved this special road just as much as he did and that this could be a true asset to the small town.
Larry helped get SR-16 designated as the official Back of the Dragon motorcycle route in 2010. He opened the BOTD Brewery, which greets riders at the end of their ride with hot pizza, a cold beverage, and memorable merchandise in a lively, motorcycle-friendly environment. Thousands of riders come from far and wide to Tazewell every year to ride the legendary Back of the Dragon. I am proud to say that I am one of them.
Located at 113 Fincastle Turnpike in the Historic District of Tazewell, the Farmhouse Suite is a distinctive place to stay. The decor blends antique style with modern elements and luxury conveniences. Eco-conscious yet elegant, the suite offers a waterfall shower, sumptuous robes and towels, and delicious snacks and drinks in the pantry and mini fridge. This suite is a comfortable place to sleep and a relaxing place to recharge between rides. Find more info on Vrbo.
Carly Becker lives to ride. If she’s not on her bike she can be found at her desk, writing about her motorcycle tours and moto camping trips. She lives in northern Kentucky with her husband, her dog, and her Kawasaki Versys-X 300.
The Bicentennial Highway in southern Utah serves as a beautiful warm-up for this spectacular bucket-list ride. (Photos by the author)
Some roads are famous for the scenery through which they traverse, and some are famous for the unique nature of the roads themselves. There is a 100-mile southeastern Utah motorcycle ride that embodies both. This ride has been on my bucket list for a long time, and it’s 80% pavement and 20% dirt.
My night’s sleep at the quaint and spotless Stone Lizard Lodge in Blanding was deep and comfortable. A ride from Blanding to Mexican Hat is normally an easy 50-minute trip due south on pavement. However, this alternate route is a circuitous adventure ride that takes half a day or more.
Just south of Blanding, I turned west on State Route 95, a designated scenic byway also known as the Bicentennial Highway. The terrain was alive with a beautiful mix of piñon pine and juniper trees as I wound through sweeping corners, with portions of the road cutting through colorful sandstone.
Natural Bridges National Monument is a side loop well worth a few extra miles. (Photo via Adobe Stock)
When I passed a sign for Mule Canyon Ruin, I made an unplanned stop at the Anasazi Indian structure, which dates to A.D. 750 and is an easy exploration even in motorcycle boots. Mule Canyon was preserved and protected when SR-95 was constructed in the 1970s, and archaeologists later excavated and restored the site.
Next, I visited Natural Bridges National Monument (entry fee required), where I followed the nine-mile, one-way loop that connects the three natural bridges, which are named Kachina, Owachomo, and Sipapu in honor of the Ancestral Puebloans. The overlooks provide good views of the bridges, and each one is spectacular.
One can’t help but imagine the daily lives of the ancient Anasazi when exploring the Mule Canyon Ruin.
The ride so far had been fantastic, but I was heading out on the leg that had intrigued me for years: State Route 261, a beautiful, mostly paved 31-mile portion of the Trail of the Ancients. The Moki Dugway – three miles of unpaved switchbacks that descend at an 11% grade – had me buzzing with anticipation.
After miles of undulating pavement, a sign warned of the steep descent to come. When I approached the crest of the dugway, the view from atop Cedar Mesa was stunning, a full panorama of the hues and textures of the Southwestern desert.
Built in the 1950s by the Texas Zinc mining company and now part of SR-261, the Moki Dugway offers up a thrilling ride as it carves its way down from the top of Cedar Mesa.
The dugway must be ridden with focus, patience, and care. The road clings to the cliff face through a series of hairpins. Traversing the serpentine descent, I was impressed by the engineering and construction prowess that created this pass. When ridden with due respect, it is a safe yet thrilling ride.
Thankfully, the fun was not over. In no time, I arrived at Valley of the Gods Road (San Juan County Road 242), a 17-mile dirt loop that leads to the feet of sandstone gods.
While it may look small, Mexican Hat is a massive 60-foot-wide boulder balancing on a sandstone pedestal.
The dirt road started off well-graded as I passed a little bed-and-breakfast at the beginning of the loop, but soon it began to cut through sand washes. After a few miles, red rock spires began to emerge on the landscape. These smaller gods were a warm-up to the massive deities that were to come.
As I rolled to the northeast, the monoliths became more massive and imposing. The gods were holding court in impressive fashion at the midpoint of the loop. I made frequent stops to take in the grandiosity of the scene.
With the loop all to myself, I got lulled into a faster pace than I realized. Soon I hit a long, deep sand wash, and I wallowed and flailed in snake-like fashion until I made it to the other side unscathed, albeit humbled and more wary.
Valley of the Gods lives up to its name as red rock deities preside majestically over the desert landscape. It’s impressive and humbling to ride in their shadows.
I finished the loop and returned to pavement on U.S. Route 163. Within a few miles, I stopped at Mexican Hat, a 60-foot-wide sandstone boulder that sits precariously as a testament to the erosive powers of water and wind, before continuing to the town of the same name.
I ended my day in the rustic, clean, and friendly San Juan Inn on the banks of the San Juan River. Sitting at the inn’s Olde Bridge Grille while admiring the arched bridge spanning the river, I reflected on the off-the-beaten-path ride that proved to be all that I had hoped. The next day, I’d ride through Monument Valley, one of the West’s most iconic places, on my way home to Arizona.
Tim Kessel’s passion for motorcycles started with his first ride on a homemade minibike as a young boy. That same childlike excitement still drives his passion to ride and to write about the unbridled joy and the adventures that motorcycling brings.
As part of EAGLERIDER’s brand evolution, the company has added Harley-Davidson CVO Street Glides to its rental fleet, among other new experiences.
EAGLERIDER, the motorcycle rental and tour company with more than 150 locations across six continents, has introduced a brand evolution that brings a new logo, an expanded fleet of test bikes, and new experiences.
In addition to on-road rentals and tours, EAGLERIDER also offers off-road adventures.
The company has been offering rentals and tours since 1992. Building on those 33 years of experience, EAGLERIDER’s brand evolution offers more for riders to enjoy. This change is represented by a new logo with a clean and modern design using Asphalt Black and Highway Yellow colors.
The new EAGLERIDER logo.
The fleet of rental bikes is expanded to include a doubled Harley-Davidson CVO fleet, including the addition of the CVO Street Glide, an ideal mount for touring comfort. The company is also planning a Route 66 Centennial Celebration Tour for 2026, with more details to be announced.
In addition to its regular motorcycle rentals and paved tours, EAGLERIDER also offers adventure experiences, like the Yamaha Mojave Desert Adventure, a three-day journey that culminates with a UTV ride through desert landmarks like Devils Hole, Death Valley, and the Area 51 Alien Center. This adventure returns with expanded dates in 2025. For families, friends, and groups, the Conquer the Mojave tour offers desert exploration aboard Polaris and Yamaha UTVs without requiring a motorcycle license.
Enjoy desert exploration in a Yamaha UTV.
“This brand evolution represents both a visual refinement and a strategic enhancement of our entire identity,” said Sebastian Schoepe, CEO of EAGLERIDER. “While embracing our new aesthetic, we remain committed to crafting premium adventures that go far beyond typical tourism offers. We’re excited to introduce numerous EAGLERIDER exclusive experiences this year that will elevate the riding journey like never before.”
To learn more about Schoepe’s vision for EAGLERIDER, check out Episode 75 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast, in which we ask Schoepe about EAGLERIDER’s winter getaway tours, new off-road tours in Las Vegas, and more.
Riding through the Chisos Mountains in Big Bend National Park. (Photos by the author)
You’ve probably heard the saying “Everything’s bigger in Texas.” At 268,596 square miles, it’s by far the largest state in the Lower 48, outsizing California by more than 100,000 square miles. The 14 smallest states would fit comfortably within the borders of Texas with enough room left over for half of Tennessee.
Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER
When my buddy Eric Birns and I rode from Ventura, California, to San Antonio to see the solar eclipse last April, we got there in the most efficient way possible: 1,400 miles on Interstate 10 in two days. Efficient, yes, but not much fun, so we vowed that our return trip would be more scenic.
Due west of San Antonio is Big Bend National Park, a place that has long held fascination for me because its remote location limits the number of visitors. It’s also known to have good motorcycling roads.
One of Greg and Eric’s many smiling selfies during their fun, exploratory ride through Texas.
Big Bend is tucked into an area where the southerly course of the Rio Grande, which forms the park’s southern and eastern boundary as well as the border with Mexico, turns sharply to the north before cutting a wide arc to the east and then southeast on its way to the Gulf of Mexico.
The high-desert town of Alpine, Texas, is a great basecamp when visiting the Big Bend area.
From San Antonio, we rode west on U.S. Route 90, part of which runs close to the border through a parched, barren landscape. Following U.S. 90’s northward arc around Mexico, we gradually gained elevation until we reached Alpine, a small town that sits at 4,462 feet above sea level. As its name suggests, it often gets snow in the winter.
By the time we reached Alpine, Eric and I had traveled more than 2,300 miles over five days. We were traveling in style and comfort on Harley-Davidson’s latest touring bikes, Eric on a sharknosed Road Glide and me on a batwinged Street Glide. Both got modernized styling for 2024, and they’re equipped with a massive 12.3-inch TFT instrument panel paired with a state-of-the-art infotainment system (see sidebar). Our gear was packed into the Harleys’ saddlebags, chopped Tour-Paks, and Nelson-Rigg Traveler Tour/Lite Trunk Bags. We were the voices in each other’s heads thanks to a set of Cardo Packtalk Edge communicators.
A mural in downtown Alpine.
As we rode through Alpine, we passed the campus of Sul Ross State University, named after former Texas governor Lawrence Sullivan Ross. A colorful “Greetings from Alpine, Texas” mural downtown informed us that actor Dan Blocker, best known for his role as Hoss on the TV show Bonanza, is a Sul Ross alum. The university also has a leading collegiate rodeo program that has earned nine national championships.
After staying in a somewhat depressing Motel 6 in San Antonio (due to the popularity of the eclipse, affordable lodging near the path of totality was hard to come by), we were spoiled by the Hotel Parker at Quarter Circle 7, located on the west side of Alpine. It has clean, modern rooms with cloud-like beds, tasteful Western decor, and complimentary breakfast.
Alpine’s Hotel Parker at Quarter Circle 7 offers comfortable, well-appointed lodging and good food, drinks, and atmosphere at the Spicewood Bar and Restaurant.
During our weeklong road trip, Eric and I made it a tradition to end each day with a celebratory dinner. After getting cleaned up, we’d walk to a local restaurant, order a couple of frosty beers, and toast to our shared accomplishment and satisfaction of having explored new places and ridden unfamiliar roads. We’d send a selfie of us smiling and celebrating to our wives back home.
Next door to the Hotel Parker is the Spicewood Bar and Restaurant, which has a full bar and serves hearty West Texas fare in a lively atmosphere. We had the pleasure of dining with Eleazar Cano and Jayme Valles, two locals who run a motorcycle tour company called The Ride of Passage. They know the Big Bend area intimately, and they provided helpful routing suggestions. Jayme also runs a motorcycle repair shop called Alpine Motorsports, and he offered us roadside assistance should we need it.
Alpine locals Eleazar Cano and Jayme Valles are experts on the Big Bend area. They guide motorcycle tours, and Jayme’s motorcycle shop provides repair and towing services.
Big Bend could very well be called the Big Empty, and that’s a good thing. Brewster County, which encompasses Big Bend National Park and towns such as Alpine, Marathon, and Study Butte/Terlingua, covers 6,193 square miles but has less than 9,400 residents. If you want to avoid crowds, this is your place.
Wide-open spaces are what make the Big Bend area so appealing and unique. The Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve spans over 15,000 square miles in Texas and Mexico and is the largest Dark Sky Certified place in the world. Of course, as motorcyclists, we’re drawn to the roads that cut through those wide-open spaces. It’s an 80-mile ride through high desert from Alpine to the entrance to Big Bend National Park, and there’s very little civilization along the way (hence Jayme’s offer to help if we needed it).
Terlingua is a ghost town just outside of Big Bend National Park.
Before entering the park, we rode through Study Butte/Terlingua, a former mining town that’s now an eclectic mix of adventure outfitters (rafting, hiking, horseback riding, Jeep tours, etc.), unique lodging options, and a ghost town. There are bars, restaurants, and shops with a frontier vibe, as well as a world-famous chili cookoff every year.
We entered Big Bend National Park near Maverick Junction. There are several well-maintained paved roads that allow visitors to explore the park, but there are also extensive unpaved roads that provide access to backcountry campsites and other remote areas. We stuck to the tarmac and pointed our big Harleys east toward Chisos Basin.
Alpine, it’s an 80-mile ride on State Route 118 to reach the western entrance of Big Bend National Park near Maverick Junction.
In addition to its vastness, part of what makes Big Bend so special is its mix of landscapes – river, desert, and mountain environments comingle and create a canvas of rich colors and textures. Dominating the heart of the national park are the rugged Chisos Mountains, reaching a height of 7,825 feet at Emory Peak.
We rode into the mountains on Chisos Basin Road, a steep, winding two-lane road that goes through a rugged canyon and summits a small pass before plunging into a high-elevation basin that’s surrounded by brown volcanic cliffs and peaks on three sides. The road ends at the floor of the 5,400-foot basin, where there is a visitor center, lodge, campground, trailheads, and other amenities.
The Rio Grande, the southern boundary of Big Bend National Park as well as the U.S./Mexico border, creates a corridor of green in the desert landscape.
After buying a few souvenirs, we climbed out of the basin and returned to the main road. We turned east and soon passed Panther Junction, where the park headquarters and a gas station are located. For the next 20 miles, we cruised under an endless blue sky on a long, gradual descent toward the Rio Grande.
At Boquillas Canyon Overlook, we got our first view of the river. It flowed lazily and was surrounded by a corridor of vegetation that looked like a winding green carpet laid upon the arid desert landscape, with the rugged Sierra del Carmen escarpment forming a high brown wall on the Mexico side.
Riding on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive near Santa Elena Canyon, where limestone cliffs rise above the Rio Grande on the Mexico side.
None of the paved national park roads create a loop, so we backtracked on the main road until we reached Santa Elena Junction and turned south on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The road lives up to its name as it follows the western foothills of the Chisos Mountains with several fantastic overlooks, such as Sotol Vista and Mule Ears. Elevation drops as the road descends toward the Rio Grande and passes through Tuff Canyon. The pavement ends near an overlook where the river cuts through the high walls of Santa Elena Canyon.
We had enjoyed every curve and vista in Big Bend National Park, but what eluded us – what I pictured in my mind’s eye when I imagined a park named after a famous river feature – was the experience of riding along with the river at our side. We found it next door.
Chisos Basin Road cuts through a scenic canyon as it winds through the Chisos Mountains. At the end of the road is a visitor center, motel, and campground.
Located west of Terlingua on Farm to Market 170, Big Bend Ranch State Park covers 311,000 acres (about one-third the size of the national park), and its southern boundary is the Rio Grande. Beyond Lajitas, FM 170 hugs the river closely, weaving and climbing and descending as it maneuvers around the rugged contours of the canyon. For pure riding enjoyment, the 50 roller-coaster miles from Lajitas to Presidio were a highlight of our entire 4,200-mile, nine-day trip.
FM 170 follows the Rio Grande through Big Bend Ranch State Park.
After gassing up in the sprawling border town of Presidio, we hightailed it north on U.S. Route 67 to Marfa and then east on U.S. 90 to Alpine. Another celebratory dinner at Spicewood was our reward for covering nearly 400 miles in one long day. While that pace suited us just fine, I recommend spreading a visit to the Big Bend area over a couple of days or longer so you can see more and include some excursions off the bike.
Near Rio Grande Village, this tunnel cuts through massive limestone beds.
The next day, we bid farewell to Alpine and rode north on State Route 118, which passes through the Chihuahuan Desert to Fort Davis, a small town that was once a frontier military post. The fort is a National Historic Landmark, and many of the old buildings have been restored.
We continued riding north into the Davis Mountains, with the bright white buildings of the McDonald Observatory visible from in the distance. Perched at 6,800 feet, the University of Texas observatory takes advantage of the region’s dark skies to peer into the far reaches of the universe.
Santa Elena Canyon cuts through limestone cliffs.
After a pleasant ride through mountains, canyons, and high-desert vistas, SR-118 ended at Interstate 10, bringing our Big Bend journey to a close.
North of Alpine, SR-118 goes through the Davis Mountains and past the McDonald Observatory.
Getting to Big Bend isn’t easy. It requires commitment and, most likely, a long ride from somewhere distant. But it’s well worth the effort. It’s hard to believe such an enormous area can be hiding in plain sight, but things really are bigger in Texas.
The Road Glide and Street Glide are Harley-Davidson’s most popular baggers. They’re essentially the same motorcycle except for their fairings: The RG has a frame-mounted sharknose fairing and the SG has a handlebar-mounted batwing fairing.
Updates for 2024 included modernized styling, lower weights, and a larger engine (117ci, up from 107) that makes more power and torque. The Glides are also some of the most high-tech Harleys ever. On the performance side, they have ride modes (Road, Sport, Rain, and Custom) and the Rider Safety Enhancements electronics suite, which includes linked brakes, cornering ABS, Drag Torque Slip Control, and Vehicle Hold Control. In the cockpit, they have a vibrant 12.3-inch touchscreen TFT display, an infotainment system managed by H-D’s Skyline OS, and a 200-watt audio system.
For our 1,400-mile superslab slog from California to Texas, the Glides provided good wind protection and a comfortable ride, aided in part by 43% more rear suspension travel (3 inches, up from 2.1). On curvy roads, such as the Twisted Sisters in the Texas Hill Country and roads throughout the Big Bend area, the Glides handled with confidence, stability, and grace. Their center of gravity is low, allowing them to bend through even the tightest curves with relative ease – and these are heavy machines (811 lb for the SG, 838 lb for the RG).
Harley-Davidson’s big Glides are better than ever. They produce plenty of grunt, they’re comfortable for long miles (we rode them 4,200 miles in nine days), and they strike a good balance between modern sophistication and classic style. You can read our full review here.
This twisty road carves through the Iferten Gorge in Morocco’s Rif Mountains. “Adventure” may be in the name of this tour, but all roads are paved. (Photos by Greg Drevenstedt)
Living in Madrid in my 20s, my Spanish friends raved about Morocco – the food, the architecture, the people, the scenery – but I never made it across the Strait of Gibraltar. When my brother, EIC Greg Drevenstedt, asked me to join him on the IMTBike Morocco Adventure Motorcycle Tour, I was anxious to see what all the fuss was about. We’d cover more than 1,400 miles in nine days, getting a full sampling of the country – the coast, rolling countryside, the Atlas Mountains, the Sahara Desert, and cities and villages.
The medina at Djemaa el-Fna square in Marrakech.
Greg and I were joined by our friend Eric Birns, and the three of us flew into Malaga, Spain, where the tour begins and ends, a few days early to shake off the jetlag and eat our weight in tapas. On the eve of the tour, we met our guides and fellow riders for a safety briefing at the hotel.
Our tour was led by Spaniards Chano Lorenzo and Marc Puncernau. Chano was once a member of the motorcycle-mounted Spanish Royal Guard, and he was the first guide hired by IMTBike when the company started in 1997. When not leading moto tours, Marc tests motorcycle tires on- and off-road. Chano and Marc were as amiable as they were knowledgeable.
Our group consisted of 10 Americans, two Guatemalans, and Marco Zepeda from Guadalajara, Mexico, a world heavyweight champion extrovert who charmed everyone we encountered on the tour, including the Moroccan police officers who stopped Marco and me for speeding and would have fined us on the spot if not for Marco’s good humor. After the safety briefing, we all walked to a traditional Spanish restaurant in Malaga and got to know one another over a good meal, a ritual repeated throughout the tour.
We woke before dawn to catch an early ferry. A light rain was falling. I chose the R 1250 GS from a wide selection of new BMWs to ride. It took a few miles to get the hang of riding an unfamiliar bike in a large group. I was also getting reacquainted with riding in the rain and in the dark, two things I typically avoid, but by the time we arrived at the port in Algeciras, I had my sea legs.
Rain is rare in Morocco, but it was a wet autumn last year. We came upon a flash flood on the ride from Rabat to Marrakech.
The Rock of Gibraltar was shrouded in dark rain clouds when we departed. The ferry crossed the strait in about an hour, and Morocco greeted us with sunny skies. Chano and Marc had the border crossing documents sorted, and we went through customs with little delay.
We slabbed it to Rabat, the capital city, and along the way I took note of the ways Morocco is different from home: gas stations with prayer rooms; roadside “fast food” served in an earthenware tagine with crusty flatbread baked in a wood-fired oven; road signs in Berber, a written language unlike any I’ve seen.
Our crew at Tizi n’Tichka, a 7,414-ft pass in the Atlas Mountains, on the ride from Marrakech to Ouarzazate.
Our luxurious resort hotel sprawled along the Bou Regreg River, where colorful wooden fishing boats stood in contrast to the ultra-modern Grand Theatre on the opposite shore. We enjoyed a beer and a dip in the pool as the sun went down, chatted over dinner, and then turned in early to rest up for the next day.
Rabat to Marrakech
Before leaving Rabat, we stopped at the Hassan Tower, the minaret of a mosque left unfinished when its patron died in 1199. Had it been completed, it would have been one of the largest mosques in the world. IMTBike does a good job of combining scenic roads with cultural discovery, and this was one of several UNESCO World Heritage Sites we visited.
Aït Benhaddou is a historic ksar (fortified village).
Outside Rabat, the road got curvy and there was little traffic, so we put the bikes through their paces. It rained lightly throughout the day. Shortly after a mint tea break, we came over a rise to see a line of cars stopped on the road ahead. A flash flood blocked our route to Marrakech. What had been light rain for us was a deluge up in the mountains, and a muddy torrent flowed over the road.
We detoured, only to arrive farther down the same valley where the flash flood was even worse. By the time we returned to our original route, the floodwaters had subsided, leaving the road caked with thick mud but passable.
Steeds of a different breed.
That night we stayed in a golf resort outside of Marrakech because, as Marc explained, the city’s traffic is bonkers. After getting cleaned up, we all jumped into a party van to go to the medina (old city). Even though it was a Monday night, the streets were jammed with vehicles and pedestrians.
The medina, which surrounds the huge Djemaa el-Fna square, was filled with merchant stalls, open-air restaurants, musicians, dancers, shoppers, tourists, families out for a stroll, and kids on mopeds scrolling on smartphones while weaving through the crowd. After wandering around the medina, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of lamb, prune, and almond tagine at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the square.
Having fun in the Erg Chebbi sand dunes.
Marrakech to Ouarzazate
Even in light rain, the road over the Atlas Mountains to Ouarzazate is a blast, with sweepers, chicanes, and hairpins, all well-engineered with good asphalt. There isn’t much of a police presence outside of Moroccan cities, so your pace is limited only by your sense of self-preservation. It was downright cold when we stopped for a group photo at the 7,414-ft Tizi n’Tichka pass.
We then took a backroad through the Ounilla Valley, passing villages that appeared not to have changed in centuries. The recent rains left lots of mud and debris on the road, so I slowed down and stopped often to take photos. We ate lunch, another delicious tagine, within sight of Aït Benhaddou, a UNESCO-recognized village dating to the 11th century that has served as a location for Gladiator and other films.
Riding through the Ounilla Valley.
In Ouarzazate, we rode past the big tourist hotels and made our way down a gravel road through a run-down-looking neighborhood, where we pulled into a covered garage that resembled the inside of a barn. Our accommodations were at a traditional Moroccan riad. I was floored as we walked through the carved wooden doors of a nondescript building into a courtyard filled with fountains, colorful tile work, and flowering plants. As we shook off the trail dust, a young woman offered us almond cookies and mint tea from a large silver tray. We took a refreshing dip in the pool and then had dinner in the courtyard under the stars. All the hotels we stayed in during the tour were top notch, but staying at a riad was a uniquely Moroccan experience.
One of the lakes that formed during record-setting rains in the Sahara.
Ouarzazate to Erfoud
Leaving Ouarzazate, one of the bikes’ rear brakes became disabled. The support van contained not only spare tires but also a spare BMW. The bikes were swapped, and we continued on our way. Kudos to IMTBike for being prepared so that unexpected issues don’t derail the tour.
Heading towards the Todra Gorge with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance, there were long stretches of straight road where I could safely uncork the R 1250 GS. The road got downright serpentine as we neared the gorge, a natural wonder with 600-foot vertical walls that are so narrow there’s barely room for the road alongside the riverbed. We were in the deep desert now, occasionally passing oasis towns of earth-colored buildings surrounded by date palms and small plots of farmland, always with groups of children waving excitedly as we rolled through.
Hold your nose! Cow urine and pigeon feces are used to process leather at this centuries-old tannery in Fez.
Arriving at our hotel in Erfoud, the parking lot was crammed with overlander trucks, side-by-sides, and adventure bikes, many coated with mud. Erfoud is the gateway to the Sahara’s Erg Chebbi sand dunes and attracts race teams, movie crews, and motorcycle tour groups.
Day 5 was one of two scheduled rest days. We slept in and lounged by the pool until heading out to the dunes that afternoon. Standing in the soft sand surrounded by huge orange dunes stretching to the horizon was mind blowing. We had the unique experience of seeing several lakes that had formed in valleys between the dunes following record-breaking rains. Marc and Chano arranged for us to rent quads and side-by-sides, and we headed into the desert following a local guide. Riding up and down those enormous dunes was like riding a roller coaster, and Greg and I laughed and hooted like schoolkids.
If the street signs weren’t in Arabic, you’d think you were in the Alps when riding over the High Atlas Mountains between Marrakech and Ouarzazate.
Erfoud to Fez
Riding out of Erfoud, we had our fill of curves while threading through the Ziz Gorge on the way to the Middle Atlas Mountains. We fed peanuts to monkeys in an alpine forest and rode through Ifrane, a village with chalets that looks more Swiss than Moroccan. Our hotel in Fez is perched on a hillside overlooking the medina, another UNESCO site, which dates to the ninth century and is the oldest continuously inhabited walled city in the Arab world.
We stayed in Fez for our second rest day and toured the medina, a warren of more than 10,000 winding, narrow alleyways lined with vendor stalls offering everything from colorful fruit and freshly butchered meat to clothing, rugs, and leather goods. There are no cars in the medina, so more than once, we had to flatten ourselves against a wall to allow a heavily laden donkey to pass. Our guide, Habib, took us to the shops of several artisans, where we had a chance to test our haggling skills against true experts. The medina is unlike any place I’ve ever visited, a fascinating human beehive that hasn’t changed significantly in centuries.
One of the many maze-like alleys in Chefchaouen, known as the “Blue City.”
Fez to Ceuta
The Atlas Mountains separate Morocco into two distinct zones, with the desert to the south and a temperate Mediterranean climate to the north. The countryside outside of Fez reminded me of southern Spain, with rolling hills and olive groves. In the foothills of the Rif Mountains, the road was scenic and exciting, twisty and uncrowded. We stopped for a stroll and lunch at Chefchaouen, a town sprawled across the side of a mountain with buildings painted various shades of blue.
Our final miles in Morocco were on a coastal road with twisties and views of the Mediterranean coastline. Unlike coming into the country, our border crossing into Ceuta, a Spanish city on a spit of Moroccan coast, took several hours, and we arrived at our hotel after nightfall. This was our last night together, and we enjoyed a delicious Spanish dinner and stayed up late at the bar talking about the sights we had seen and the roads we had ridden.
Marco and Kevin making friends with a couple of locals.
Ceuta to Malaga
Unlike our first ferry trip across the Strait of Gibraltar, we had clear skies for our return to Spain and were treated to beautiful views of the Rif Mountains and the Rock of Gibraltar. Heading to Malaga, we turned off the highway and onto a mountainous backroad for one last session of curves and beautiful views before we arrived at IMTBike’s warehouse. After a toast of cava, we said our farewells and headed our separate ways.
No wonder my Spanish friends love Morocco. It is a beautiful country that honors and preserves its unique cultural traditions while also embracing modernity and tourism. IMTBike’s Morocco Adventure Tour is a great introduction, leading you from one must-see destination to the next, all connected by beautiful backroads. And we didn’t have to plan a thing. The guides and fellow riders were excellent company, and everything ran smoothly. Even when the unexpected occurred, like flash floods or a mechanical issue, Marc and Chano were unflappable. I don’t know if I would take off into the interior of Morocco on my own, but I would do it again with the folks from IMTBike in a heartbeat.
Paul admires the flora and fauna near Marrakech.
IMTBike’s Morocco Adventure Tour will run five times in 2025: March 15-24, April 12-21, Sept. 20-29, Oct. 11-20, and Nov. 15-24. The longer 16-day Magical Morocco Tour also runs multiple times in 2025. For more information, visit the IMTBike website.
Paul Drevenstedt (right) bought his first motorcycle, a raced-hard-and-put-away-wet BMW R90S, in 1997. Inspired by the fun he was having, his younger brother, Greg (left), bought his first motorcycle a year later. They’ve been riding together ever since.
Ohio’s Windy 9 is full of winding roads like these, and all nine routes start and end in Athens. (Photos by the author and Joel Prince)
Athens, Ohio, has always been special to me. My great aunt, Jean Drevenstedt, has lived there since the early ’70s. She was a psychology professor at Ohio University for decades, and until recently, she lived in a charming home in a charming neighborhood on a brick-paved lane called Ohio Avenue.
Jean has always been one of the most gracious, upbeat, and engaging people I’ve known. She never married or had children, and she has always welcomed my brother and me with open arms. Anytime we’d visit, she’d update us on local happenings and give us a tour of Athens, the OU campus, and surrounding areas, beaming with pride for her town, community, and region. She delighted in taking us to local points of interest, such as state parks, Indigenous burial mounds, The Wilds safari park, and the Portsmouth Floodwall Mural, which spans 2,000 feet along the Ohio River and includes a panel about the Portsmouth Motorcycle Club, which was established in 1893.
Athens is also special because it’s located in southeastern Ohio, in the heart of a motorcycle playground of roads that wind through the Appalachian foothills. It’s the winding nature of these roads that prompted the Athens County Visitors Bureau to create Ohio’s Windy 9, a network of nine motorcycle routes that begin and end in Athens and provide a smorgasbord of the best riding in the region. Information about the Windy 9 is available on a paper map with turn-by-turn directions for each route, recommended places for lunch and dinner, points of interest, and lodging options. (Request a free map on the Windy 9 website.)
Visits with Aunt Jean are always happy occasions.
In late 2023, at the age of 96, Jean had a bad fall at home and broke her hip. While recovering at a local rehab center, it became apparent that Jean’s dementia had advanced to the point that she wouldn’t be able to return home. I hadn’t seen Jean since before the pandemic, so I was overdue for a visit. Last fall, I traveled to Athens to see Jean and to ride Ohio’s Windy 9.
SR-685 is on the Hocking Hills Nipper and Black Diamond Run routes.
As good fortune would have it, contributing editors Eric Trow and Scott “Bones” Williams were able to join me, riding to Athens from their homes in Pennsylvania and Massachusetts. I flew into Columbus, picked up a BMW that I rented through Twisted Road (see sidebar below), and rode an hour south to Athens. The three of us shared a spacious top-floor suite at Athens Central Hotel (see sidebar below), which is located within walking distance of the thriving Uptown area and OU’s campus.
SR-676, a delightful ride through rolling farmland, is on the Pioneer Pass route.
Having been to Athens many times over the years, visits feel like coming home even though I’ve never lived there. I know my way around the lively college town that’s home to roughly 20,000 students and 5,000 permanent residents. Founded in 1797, Athens is largely defined by the Hocking River that flows through it, the red-brick buildings of the sprawling Ohio University campus, and the adjacent historic Uptown district, which is full of bars, restaurants, and student-centric businesses.
Upon arriving in Athens, I visited Jean at the small, cozy nursing home where she now lives. Jean has some memory challenges these days, but her inner light still shines brightly. She’s fond of sweets, so I brought her some cookies. I showed her an issue of Rider and told her about some of my recent travels. Pushing her walker, she gave me a tour of the facility and introduced me to nurses and friends.
Saint John Catholic Church on SR-676.
After checking into our hotel, Eric, Bones, and I walked a few blocks to Uptown for dinner and then had beers at the Smiling Skull Saloon, a dive bar I hadn’t been to in 20 years. It still has the same motorcycle-themed decor, the same beer-keg barstools, and the same cheap pitchers of Pabst Blue Ribbon.
The next morning, over free breakfast at the hotel, we spread out our Windy 9 map and plotted our first day’s ride. While the logical, type-A part of me wanted to ride all nine routes in order, three per day, Bones and I deferred to Eric’s more freestyle approach, as well as his expertise since he and Larry Grodsky used to host Stayin’ Safe training tours in the area. Some of the routes, which range in length from 63 to 104 miles, cross and overlap, so we mixed and matched over the course of several days.
The Smiling Skull Saloon is a great dive bar in Athens.
The routes are named and numbered, and on the first day we rode 1) Rim of the World, 6) Pioneer Pass, and 4) Lazy Rivers. Rim of the World heads north from Athens on U.S. 33, one of two national routes passing though Athens (the other is U.S. 50), and continues northeast on SR-78, what Grodsky used to call a “feel good” road because it has gentle curves with no surprises – the perfect warmup. We then enjoyed a pleasant cruise along the Muskingum River on SR-376, followed by a more free-spirited ride on open, twisty SR-377.
Rather than return all the way to Athens, we jumped over to 6) Pioneer Pass and got our jollies for 50 miles while heading east on SR-676 through farmland with a great mix of tight and open curves, like a kid’s Hot Wheels track that got twisted and paved. We gassed up in Marietta, a historic town located at the confluence of the Muskingum and Ohio rivers. We dropped our kickstands at a riverfront park and enjoyed a riders’ lunch – salty snacks washed down with caffeinated drinks – while watching tugboats push enormous barges downriver.
Alumni Gate at Ohio University, which opened in 1803.
We headed west toward Athens again on SR-550, which had some decent curves but also more traffic. At the junction with SR-144, we turned south, jumping onto the 4) Lazy Rivers route. SR-144 was empty, and it has a fast, organic flow as it runs alongside the Hocking River. Next up was SR-124, which is part of the Ohio River Scenic Byway. We were surprised to find it devoid of traffic – most trucks and travelers take more direct routes – and enjoyed views of the river and bluffs. At Pomeroy, the Lazy Rivers route turns north on U.S. 33, a direct freeway route back to Athens.
After a full day of riding with a light lunch, we refreshed ourselves with cold beers at Tony’s Tavern, a dark, friendly locals bar in the heart of Uptown that isn’t on the OU student radar. Then we walked across the street for a fantastic dinner of Mexican food and margaritas at Casa Nueva.
Ohio Riverfront Park in Marietta offers views of river barges as well as West Virginia on the opposite bank.
On Day 2, we packed in a full day with five Windy 9 routes: 3) Hocking Hills Nipper, 5) Zaleski Zipper, 2) Southern Dip, 7) Pomeroy Dash, and 8) Black Diamond Run. Routes 3 and 5 go through the Hocking Hills and Zaleski state forests west of Athens, Routes 2 and 7 explore backroads south of Athens, and Route 8 is a loop north of town.
All day we were in and out of shaded woodlands or riding past corn and soybean fields, cow pastures, barns and silos, rambling farmhouses, and old churches with cemeteries. Whenever we paused by the side of the road to take photos, friendly locals would stop to ask if we were okay or needed help.
The Lazy Rivers route includes 45 leisurely miles along the Ohio River Scenic Byway (SR-124).
On the Hocking Hills Nipper route, we loved SR-595’s rolling hills and curves, and SR-664 through the state forest was fast and flowing. On the Zaleski Zipper, SR-278 also allowed a fun pace with little traffic, and we stopped to check out the Hope Furnace, one of 69 charcoal iron furnaces that were active in the region in the 1800s.
On the Southern Dip, we had a blast on SR-689, and SR-160 was what Eric called a “stereotypical Ohio road” because it had a little bit of everything, including a few surprises. We encountered some rain as we approached Gallipolis and splashed our way through some industrial traffic on SR-7. As we turned onto the Pomeroy Dash route, the rain let up enough for us to enjoy the winding curves through farmland on SR-143. We ended our day on the Black Diamond Run, which like the expert-level ski slope it’s named after, was a mix of excitement (SR-595, SR-686), fun (SR-691, SR-278), and challenges, including rough pavement and traffic on SR-13 and SR-93.
This is SR-248, one of the many hidden-gem roads that run between the official Windy 9 routes and make exploration so much fun.
After slaking our post-ride thirst again at Tony’s Tavern, we walked next door for dinner at O’Bettys Red Hot, a kitschy hot dog joint. It has menu items named after famous burlesque dancers and decor like a red-light district museum, but the delicious all-beef franks and brats and hand-cut fries are the stars of the show. Gotta love college towns!
We saved the most famous route for Day 3: the Triple Nickel. Rather than take U.S. 50 to get to the southern terminus of SR-555, we rode part of the Pomeroy Dash route that we skipped the day before, added a fun road that’s not part of the Windy 9 (SR-248), and rode part of SR-124 (Ohio River Scenic Byway) in the opposite direction as before. This choose-your-own-adventure quality is what makes Ohio’s Windy 9 so fun. The routes provide options and inspiration while leaving plenty of room for improvisation.
Branching off The Triple Nickel (SR-555), SR-669 is a fantastic road that winds its way to the Muskingum River and McConnelsville.
The Triple Nickel (SR-555) runs for 62 miles, from Little Hocking in the south to Zanesville in the north. It’s a fantastic road, and the 12 miles between Chesterhill and Ringgold are the best, a true roller-coaster thrill ride with blind curves, steep drops, and surprising hillcrests. We rode it from south to north, and before reaching Zanesville, we turned east on SR-669, another thrill-a-minute route that’s not part of the Windy 9.
After the ride on Day 3, Eric and Bones departed and I visited Jean again. As I showed her the Windy 9 map and photos from our rides, she became excited as she recalled visits to places like Burr Oak State Park and having lunch at the Blue Bell Diner in McConnelsville.
The interior of O’Bettys Red Hot, a burlesque-themed hot dog joint in Athens.
The riding on Ohio’s Windy 9 is fantastic. But what really impressed us about the area is the hospitality. Everywhere we went – our hotel, restaurants, diners, coffee spots, bars, and gas stations – we were welcomed. People were friendly, curious, accommodating, and appreciative that we were visiting.
We were visitors, but we didn’t feel like outsiders or strangers. People asked us where we were from and if we were enjoying our visit. Ohioans are proud of their communities, and rightly so. They live in a beautiful, bountiful state. They love God, country, and family. They support their veterans and their local teams, such as the Eastern Eagles and Trimble Tomcats. And they welcome visitors with open arms, like Jean has always done.
Built on the bank of the Hocking River in 1809, White’s Mill is an Athens institution. Today it sells feed, garden supplies, and gifts.
Southeastern Ohio is a special place, and it was a privilege to explore it. Put Athens and Ohio’s Windy 9 on your list of places to ride and visit. You’ll love it as much as we do.
Located in the heart of town within walking distance of restaurants, bars, shops, and Ohio University’s campus, Athens Central Hotel is a great basecamp when visiting Athens and riding Ohio’s Windy 9. It has clean, modern rooms with small fridges stocked with complimentary water and soda, a fitness center, free breakfast, free wi-fi, and free parking. Visit the Athens Central Hotel website for rates and reservations.
SIDEBAR: Renting a Motorcycle from Twisted Road
To visit Athens, Ohio, I flew into the closest major airport in Columbus, which is about an hour away. There aren’t any brick-and-mortar motorcycle rental locations in the area, so I found a bike on Twisted Road, a nationwide peer-to-peer motorcycle rental network.
Twisted Road vets motorcycle owners before allowing them to rent out their bikes. Renters must provide their driver’s license number and a credit card, and Twisted Road verifies that they have valid motorcycle endorsements. All rentals are covered by up to $40,000 for damage and up to $1 million for liability.
I found a 2008 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure equipped with aluminum luggage, and the rental price was a reasonable $100 per day. As a first-time renter, I was credited one free day. There are multiday discounts, and Twisted Road’s One, Two, Free program gives renters one free day after completing two rides.
Creating my user profile, submitting a rental request, and communicating with the owner was easy. I took an Uber from the airport to the owner’s house, and when I arrived, the bike was in the driveway, clean with a full tank of gas. The hand-over process took only a few minutes, and turning in the bike five days later was a breeze.
For more information about renting a bike or listing your own bike for rent, visit the Twisted Road website.
Edelweiss Bike Travel, a motorcycle tour company based in Austria, celebrates its 45th anniversary this year with a special reunion and the inauguration of its new headquarters from July 10-13.
This four-day event takes place in Tyrol, Austria, and will include guided motorcycle tours, the inauguration, and a gala. Participants will stay in a four-star hotel that includes breakfast and organized transportation. Motorcycle rentals with unlimited mileage and full insurance coverage will be available, and e-bikes will be available free of charge. Prices for this event start at $910 per rider in a double room.
Long-time Edelweiss guests can take advantage of special loyalty discounts for the event. Those who have completed five or more tours will get a 5% discount, completing 10 tours gets a 10% discount, 15 tours gets a 15% discount, and 20 tours gets a 20% discount.
In addition to the 45th anniversary event, Edelweiss will be hosting a special tour from July 4-13, starting at the BMW Motorrad Days in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and ending at the reunion. The tour starts with a day to explore the festival grounds in Garmisch with tens of thousands of BMW enthusiasts. The next day, the tour heads into the Alps and to Italy. After two nights in the Dolomites, the tour heads to Livigno for another two nights. There will be a rest day to explore some Swiss passes and ride the famous Stelvio Pass before returning to Tyrol for the reunion.
This tour also includes loyalty discounts: 3% discount for completing five tours, 6% discount for completing 10 tours, 9% discount for completing 15 tours or 12% discount for completing 20 tours. Pricing starts at $6,570 per rider in a double room.
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