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Hills and Hollers: Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride

November 18, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

“Holler” is how Appalachian folks pronounce “hollow,” which is a valley between hills or mountains. A holler has a mouth, where it meets a larger road, and a head, where the end prevents you from going any farther. The road through a holler is often gravel and runs next to a creek, and there’s usually a loose dog or two who seem to run the place.

My suspicions were confirmed by a local – I was indeed staying in a holler during my time in Beattyville, Kentucky. The only difference was that instead of this holler being lined with houses or trailers, it was lined with beautifully crafted log cabins.

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My tour through the Appalachian Mountains of eastern Kentucky began about 20 minutes north of town in the Red River Gorge. This geological area is a major draw for rock climbers, hikers, backpackers, and outdoor enthusiasts of all types, including motorcyclists.

The go-to motorcycle road is the Eye of the Dragon, a 27-mile scenic route through the Red River Gorge area that’s promoted by Backroads of Appalachia, a nonprofit group whose aim is to draw tourists to the area. Using the group’s free app, one can access a variety of routes in the Appalachian area that are fun for on-road vehicles of all kinds.

I began my journey around the Eye of the Dragon loop at the Red River Gorge Visitor Center at Slade. A friendly staff member marked up a map to show me the best sightseeing opportunities and restaurants along the route.

Before I set out on the loop, I headed up State Route 11 to Miguel’s Pizza. A search for “best pizza in Kentucky” will invariably list it as the top pick, with its yellow building and cheesy, bubbling pie. Behind the building is a campground that’s popular with rock climbers.

With a belly full of pizza, I set out on State Route 77, and the first natural attraction I came across was a doozy – the Nada Tunnel. Stretching 900 feet in length, it’s only 12 feet wide and 13 feet high. The tunnel has no interior lighting and is only wide enough for one vehicle at a time. To pass through, you edge up to the mouth of the tunnel to see if there are any oncoming headlights. If not, you proceed into the eerie, dark abyss. With only your headlights for illumination, you can just make out the wet pavement and the jagged rocks along the walls and ceiling. After creeping along slowly for the length of three football fields, you pop out into the light on the other side, back into the forest.

Continuing on SR-77, which runs along the Red River, I was greeted with lazy, twisting curves. Lined along this road are plenty of pullover parking spots, providing ample opportunity to stop and take in the scenery or snap a few photos.

The next feature of the loop is a steel bridge, followed by a side road that leads to Sky Bridge Arch. A short hike on a mostly paved easy trail leads to the top of the massive stone formation.

I will admit that I was so terrified crossing this arch on foot, which is no wider than the Nada Tunnel and has no guardrails to prevent you from making the 100-plus-foot fall, that I texted my husband my location in case I fell off. While tiptoeing my way across, I was greeted with stunning views and a rushing sense of exhilaration, which were worth every trepidatious step.

The Sky Bridge Trail loops around until you are under the arch. I made my way back to the parking lot along the three-quarter mile loop, which was easy enough to do in motorcycle gear, and continued to the next destination along the Eye of the Dragon.

A 4-mile ride down a packed dirt road strewn with gravel led me to my next stop – a twofer opportunity to view both Princess Arch and Chimney Top Rock, two rock formations found at the end of a quarter-mile hike. Princess Arch looked cute compared to the larger Sky Bridge but was lovely in its own right. Chimney Top Rock was lined with signs warning of the dangerous cliffs, which piqued my interest. I’m not sure if it’s the highest point in the area, but it certainly felt like it, with views that span for miles.

Having worked up an appetite from all this hiking, I rode to another stop recommended by the gentleman at the visitor center – Redpoint Barbeque – which served the best barbecue I’ve ever had, accompanied by baked beans and cornbread.

Next, I checked in at the Hemlock Lodge at the Natural Bridge State Resort Park, where I was given the key to a lovely room. Curiosity led me to an enormous flight of stairs behind the lodge, which took me down to a swaying suspension bridge over a small manmade lake and Hoedown Island, which hosts square dance competitions.

The morning greeted me with steady rain that accompanied me during the 20-minute ride to Beattyville. This small burg, with a population of 2,000, has a blossoming downtown. Soggy and a little cold, I stopped at the most important building in any small town – the bakery – where I warmed up with a hot coffee and a banana pudding cupcake.

The rain played hide and seek as I strolled down Main Street. The well-maintained streets, lined with unique lampposts and no overhead electrical wires, contained cute shops like the Rose Bros. department store and the Blooming Sensations florist and gift shop. A few buildings were gutted and being renovated. One of them had strange, natural markings on the vertical beams near the ceiling – the water line, I was told, from a devastating flood in 2021.

Residents of Beattyville came together after the flood to rebuild downtown and the surrounding area. It’s a story of survival and community, and the silver lining is that the renovations allowed more businesses to open. The state and nationally accredited Downtown Beattyville Alliance is dedicated to keeping the city center vibrant.

Needing more sustenance than just a cupcake, I had an early lunch at Los Two Brothers, a Mexican restaurant on Main Street. I didn’t know what to expect from a south-of-the-border eatery in a small Appalachian town, but the tender chicken-and-cheese enchiladas were phenomenal.

Back on the bike, my next stop was the Three Forks Historical Center, a museum that preserves and showcases the history of the local area. As a bonus, inside were a variety of vendors for the weekly farmer’s market. A familiar experience repeated itself here. At first, I received stares and looks of confusion – not only was I an outsider, but a lone woman on a motorcycle. However, after a greeting and making a personal connection, I was welcomed wholeheartedly by the locals at every establishment I entered.

As I weaved my way through tables, looking at handcrafted soaps and jewelry, hand-embroidered hats, and colorful produce, someone invited me to enjoy some live music later that night at Brenda’s BBQ Smoke Shack – the same place someone from Backroads of Appalachia claimed served some of the best food around.

Next, I visited Happy Top Park. Beattyville is proud to be the birthplace of the Kentucky River, and from this hilltop park you can see where the north and south forks converge to create the 260-mile-long river that supplies water to more than 700,000 Kentuckians.

Ready for an afternoon snack, I rode north on SR-11 to River Cantina, another restaurant recommended by locals. The salsa was bright, and my carnitas street tacos were delicious. I’d have a hard time choosing between Los Two Brothers and River Cantina, so if you come this way you should try both.

That night I met up with my new friends at Brenda’s BBQ Smoke Shack. I enjoyed a pulled-pork sandwich with tender meat and flavorful sauce, served up by Brenda herself, while a one-man band played soulful country music in the dining room. It made for a lovely end to a jam-packed day of small-town enjoyment.

Due to some unseasonably cold weather, the next day I awoke to frost on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300. Luckily my heated grips and insulated jacket kept me cozy as I embarked on a day of backroads riding. Beattyville, the county seat of Lee County, is known for two motorcycle routes: Ride the River Dragon and Ridge Runner Road 587.

I started off with Ride the River Dragon, a 40-mile scenic route that starts in Beattyville and follows SR-11 to State Route 28 and ends at Buckhorn Lake State Resort Park. It was even chillier near the water and in the shade of the cliffs, which would make this ride perfect on a steamy summer day.

The first part of SR-11 was nondescript, but once on State Route 28, the curves started to pick up as the road flirts with the Burton Fork of the Kentucky River, winding close together, then out of sight, then back again. The fork varied from small and creek-like to wide and deep blue. Rolling hills surrounded me, often with sheer rock cliffs towering above me on one side and a drop off on the other. Guard rails were sporadic, lending to a thrilling but not too technical ride.

I passed the town of Buckhorn and its log cabin cathedral, the Buckhorn Lake Area Presbyterian Church. Built in 1928, the tall and spacious building, constructed of white oak logs from the surrounding mountains, cost a whopping $140 at the time.

Continuing on this curvy road, about 10 miles from the state park, the twisties really begin, with switchbacks and banked curves and even a couple of hairpins. It didn’t let up until I got to Buckhorn Lake State Resort Park. At the lodge, I had a tasty BLT at the Bowlingtown Country Kitchen, which is named after the town that had to be relocated when the lake project began in the 1960s.

After backtracking north on SR-11, I turned west on State Route 587 to begin the Ridge Runner Road 587, a 23-mile route through the hills and hollers of Daniel Boone National Forest. This is moonshine country, and the road winds its way through dark canopies of trees, over creeks (Duck Fork, Sturgeon Creek, and War Fork), and past turn-offs for desolate roads (Turkey Foot, Brushy Ridge, and Short Hollow, among others). SR-587 ends at U.S. Route 421, and just a few miles to the west is the town of McKee, where you can pick up Backroads of Appalachia’s 118-mile Freedom Ridge loop route.

After a full day of riding, I looked forward to pulling up to my little cabin in my very own holler. The Red River Gorge, Beattyville, and Lee County are a special part of eastern Kentucky that have much to offer travelers of all stripes, but especially riders like us.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride Resources

Carly Becker lives to ride. If she’s not on her bike she can be found at her desk, writing about her motorcycle tours and moto camping trips. She lives in northern Kentucky with her husband, her dog, and her Kawasaki Versys-X 300.

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Red River Rivalry of Pie: Searching for the Best in Oklahoma and Texas

September 15, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Oklahoma and Texas have been official neighbors since 1907, when Oklahoma became the 46th state. Oklahomans and Texans have more in common than not, but they haven’t always been the friendliest of neighbors. In July of 1931, a border dispute between the two states led to the so-called Red River Bridge War, during which Oklahoma Governor William Henry “Alfalfa Bill” Murray sent the National Guard to the Oklahoma side of a bridge across the Red River. Texas Governor Ross Shaw Sterling answered in kind, deploying a group of Texas Rangers to their side of the bridge. The standoff was quickly diffused, and the only shots fired were by Texas Rangers taking target practice.

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Nowadays the Oklahoma vs. Texas hostilities are mainly limited to the annual Red River Rivalry, one of the longest-running and most storied college football rivalries in the country. First played in 1900, the rivalry series has been held uninterrupted since 1929. The teams have met 120 times, and Texas leads the series 64-51, with five ties. Each October the two teams meet at the Cotton Bowl in Dallas to settle bragging rights for another year.

Texas also holds an edge when it comes to great motorcycling roads – a glance at the Butler Maps-rated roads in each state clearly makes the point. But there are other “quality of life” considerations important to motorcyclists, and near the top is food. When you drill down in that category, it doesn’t take long to get to pie and the cafes and diners where good pie can be found. The question of which of the rival states has the best pie is an open debate.

I, along with two of my riding buddies, Steve Skinner and Steve Johnson, set out to settle the question once and for all during a three-day, 1,100-mile motorcycle tour we called The Red River Rivalry of Pie. Our plan was to eat our way through some of the best pie cafes in each state, compile our admittedly unscientific results to declare a winner, and enjoy some great Texas Hill Country roads along the way.

Our adventure began at the Railyard Pie Company in Edmond, Oklahoma, which sits in a newly renovated old part of town, with vibrant shops, restaurants, and a weekend farmers’ market. Railyard has an inviting and friendly atmosphere, often treating customers to live bluegrass music on Saturday mornings. We sampled two pies: lemon cream and apple crumble. Railyard didn’t disappoint – we agreed the pies were outstanding and looked forward to judging how they would stack up against the stiff competition yet to come.

Total pie count: 3 pieces

Our pie tour turned south to Oklahoma City. Pie Junkie, located in the city’s groovy Plaza District, is a compact operation, accommodating only about a half-dozen dine-in customers. Most of the customers we saw were picking up pre-ordered whole pies or grabbing slices to go. We sampled Pie Junkie’s French silk (chocolate), Drunken Turtle, and (again) apple crumble. The pies were amazing, and we began to realize just how difficult picking an overall winner would be. After licking our plates – literally – we hopped on the bikes, pointed them southwest on Interstate 44, and headed toward Lawton, about 90 miles down the road.

Total pie count: 6 pieces

The weather was cooperating beautifully, with the temperature in the low 60s, clear skies, and light winds. As we approached Lawton, we could see the Wichita Mountains outlined against the western horizon. We detoured from the interstate onto State Route 49 in the direction of the quirky town of Medicine Park. Mount Scott, one of the highest points in Oklahoma at 2,464 feet, towers over the eastern edge of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, where buffalo, elk, and longhorn cattle freely roam. We took the 3-mile-long paved road that leads to the top and were treated with striking vistas in every direction.

Back on I-44, we continued south, crossed into Texas, and at Wichita Falls picked up U.S. Route 281 south toward Jacksboro and Mineral Wells. The road cuts through a swath of cattle country but soon gives way to a gently winding, undulating roadway and more wooded terrain. Looming over the town of Mineral Wells is the 14-story Baker Hotel and Spa, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. Opened in 1929, it originally boasted 450 guest rooms, ballrooms, a bowling alley, a gymnasium, and a swimming pool. The hotel thrived throughout the 1930s and ’40s, but after 20 years of decline, it closed its doors in 1972. Now under renovation, the hotel should reopen in 2026.

South of Mineral Wells, the bridge on U.S. 281 that crosses over the Brazos River is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Spanning 1,138 feet, the continuous-truss-style bridge was built in 1939 and has been recently refurbished.

We pressed on along U.S. 281 south to Stephenville where, recognizing that man cannot live on pie alone, we stopped at Hard Eight BBQ for lunch. Since this is a pie article, I won’t dwell on the many great qualities of Hard Eight, but for the record, it’s an excellent place to satisfy your inner carnivore.

We followed U.S. 281 south to Lampasas, where we angled southeast on U.S. Route 183 toward Austin. Pink, white, and red wildflowers added splashes of color to the sides of the road and the green fields beyond, giving us a taste of what we would see in abundance in the Hill Country west of Austin. We overnighted northwest of the city after a great day of riding that covered nearly 450 miles.

On Day 2, we made our way to U.S. Route 290 west out of Austin for the 75-mile ride to Fredericksburg. U.S. 290 between Austin and Fredericksburg is a beautiful road, parts of which are rated by Butler Maps, and there are several breweries and wineries along the highway.

Fredericksburg Pie Company is open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 10 a.m. until the pie is gone – usually around 3 p.m. We arrived about 15 minutes after it opened, and there was already a dozen or so customers in various stages of pie-induced bliss. The place is homey, with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating. When we asked about their best pie, the friendly staff quickly shared their motto: “We’ve got no time for bad pie – everything’s good.” And they weren’t wrong. The coffee was great, and the pie was even better. We quickly scarfed down the first round – lemon meringue, coconut cream, and orange bourbon pecan. Then we moved on to round two: key lime, chocolate meringue, and coconut cream. Our scorecards showed that the setting, service, and pie (six pieces in one visit!) at Fredericksburg Pie Company received high marks.

Total pie count: 12 pieces

Stuffed and quite happy, we turned our attention to finding some great Hill Country roads, specifically the famous Twisted Sisters – RM (Ranch-to-Market Road) 335, 336, and 337. Our plan was to ride most of RM 337 from the jumping-off point on State Route 16 at Medina, pick up RM 336 at Leakey, and take it north to its end at State Route 41. The two Sisters are curvy, fast, and undulating, and we worked off a lot of the pie calories hustling our big bikes down those roads.

We are all veterans of the Twisted Sisters, but we agreed that they seemed better than we remembered – maybe it was the beautiful day, springtime greenery, and colorful wildflowers. Or pie-induced bliss. At the junction of RM 336 and State Route 41, we set our GPSs for Marble Falls, about 140 miles to the east, where we would stop for the night.

Day 3 dawned cold and threatened rain. We hustled over to the Blue Bonnet Cafe for breakfast and our first pie of the day. The cafe opened in 1929 and has been in its current location on U.S. 281 since 1946. A perennial award-winner, the Blue Bonnet is a motorcyclist’s dream – great breakfast, great service, great atmosphere, dedicated motorcycle parking, and world-class pie. We showed up at 8:15 on Sunday morning, and the place was already packed. As pre-breakfast appetizers, the Steves had slices of German chocolate cream and I had regular chocolate cream. Everything was outstanding.

Total pie count: 15 pieces

It was hard to leave the Blue Bonnet Cafe, but we expected inclement weather to cross our path, so we zipped up our Gore-Tex riding gear, put on our waterproof gloves, and set off. Our target was Glen Rose, about 125 miles to the north. Before long, it was raining heavily and the temperature had dropped into the 40s. By the time we made it to Pie Peddlers, the rain had lightened up, and we needed hot coffee and warm pie to lift our spirits. Four pieces of pie – chocolate meringue, Every Berry, blackberry, and buttermilk (a house specialty) – and a pot of coffee later, we were warm, dry, happy, and ready to get back on the road. We pointed the bikes north toward Oklahoma City, with one pie stop remaining.

Total pie count: 19 pieces

North on Interstate 35 through the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex, the rain had cleared, and the sun occasionally peeked out of a mostly cloudy sky. After crossing back into Oklahoma, we were soon rolling through the beautiful Arbuckle Mountains, the oldest known formations in the U.S. between the Appalachians and the Rockies. The granite rocks date back at least 1.4 billion years.

Our final stop was nestled in those mountains – Arbuckle Mountain Fried Pies, near Davis. Some might call including a fried pie shop in an article on the best pie cafes pure heresy, but a 4.7-star rating with 4,225 Google reviews suggested it had a place in our Oklahoma vs. Texas pie smackdown. And getting off the interstate at the State Route 53 exit allowed us to enjoy about 10 miles of pretty and twisty U.S. Route 77 near Turner Falls State Park. Three hot, delicious fried pies later – pineapple, chocolate, and pecan – we were on the bikes for the final leg back to Oklahoma City, about 78 more miles north on I-35.

Total pie count: 21 pieces

The Red River Rivalry of Pie had been a great ride and a labor of love. After three days, more than 1,100 miles, two Twisted Sisters, six pie shops, and 21 pieces of pie, we were ready to announce a winner. Our unanimous selection – Blue Bonnet Cafe in Marble Falls, Texas. It’s simply fabulous on every metric. We diverged, however, on second place. I picked the Railyard Pie Company in Edmond, Oklahoma; Steve Skinner selected Pie Junkie in Oklahoma City; and Steve Johnson selected the Fredericksburg Pie Company in Texas. But we were splitting hairs – the truth is you can’t go wrong with any of the rival pie cafes we sampled. Pie on!

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Red River Rivalry of Pie Resources

Oklahoma Tourism
Edmond, OK
Railyard Pie Co. (Edmond, OK)
Oklahoma City, OK
Pie Junkie (Oklahoma City, OK)
Arbuckle Mountain Fried Pies (Davis, OK)
Texas Tourism
Fredericksburg, TX
Fredericksburg Pie Company (Fredericksburg, TX)
Marble Falls, TX
Blue Bonnet Cafe (Marble Falls, TX)
Glen Rose, TX
Pie Peddlers (Glen Rose, TX)

Tim DeGiusti lives and works in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Tim returned to motorcycling in 2012 after a long break and has since ridden throughout Oklahoma and 44 other states (and counting).

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Yore Mother Road: Recollections of a Route 66 Motorcycle Ride

July 17, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Yore Mother Route Route 66 Motorcycle Ride — A Route 66 mural in Flagstaff, Arizona. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt; other photos by the author and Scott Spangler)

Decades after its official demise in 1985, Route 66 remains in fragments, with the rest either paved over and renamed or reclaimed by nature. Nearly 100 years after its official opening in 1926, my buddy Scott and I heeded Yogi’s proclamation that it ain’t over and took a Route 66 motorcycle ride on what was left of America’s Main Street from Chicago, Illinois, to Santa Monica, California.

Interstate travel has its limits. Limited access. Limited visual variety. Limited signage. Limited opportunities for impromptu exploration. Interstates exist to give motorists the fastest path between endpoints. While that was also Route 66’s original purpose, nowadays the Mother Road favors journey over destination. Like clicking through TV channels, this road offers visual variety with every eye blink. With famous roadside attractions and scenery that varies from city streets to open desert to mountain twisties, the Mother Road provides plentiful moto-nourishment. Despite its official nonexistence and decades of neglect, this national organism hangs on, morphing and reinventing and refusing to succumb with all its heart. I like that.

Each section of this Route 66 motorcycle ride has a distinct personality. Through its eastern states, it is what you probably expect Route 66 to be: excellent signage, world-famous landmarks, kitschy attractions. Great stuff. Farther west, roadside attractions became fewer, maybe a restored gas station here and there and a few Burma-Shave signs. What we often encountered was some recently opened business staking an as-yet unearned claim to membership in this highway’s fraternity. Perhaps they’re not as genuine as, say, Wigwam Village Motel #6 in Holbrook, Arizona, but these newcomers to the Route 66 mystique help keep this national artery pulsing.

Riding Route 66 was both poignant and somber. Poignant was riding that little stretch of bricked road in Auburn, Illinois, and strolling onto the Brush Creek Marsh Rainbow Arch Bridge between Riverton and Baxter Springs, Kansas, as well as myriad other attempts to preserve last century’s then-super highway’s personality. Somber was seeing entire main streets boarded up or rusted vehicle hulks strewn around abandoned gas stations or literally reaching one of the many ends of the original road. Pausing to imagine each of these deteriorating places as little oases that catered to weary travelers in their heyday felt like paying last respects to the demise of a dream.

There are still plenty of stop-worthy places along the road’s nearly 2,500 miles. Like Bone Daddy’s in Seligman, Arizona. Resembling a 1930s bordello, it was fronted by odd displays, old cars, and a man playing guitar and singing on the front stoop (at 9:30 on a Monday morning, mind you). Between songs, he manned a broom.

Some roads were fun, some boring, some badly in need of re-paving, some just plain crumbling into nonexistence. And then there was the Sitgreaves Pass portion of Route 66 over the Black Mountains in Arizona, described by DangerousRoads.org as “built like a bobsled run, with crazy switchbacks and steep drop-offs plunging thousands of feet down.” It was both fun and terrifying in a way no roller coaster could ever match.

The real treat along the entire trip was the locals. Every one of the people we met was pleasant, friendly, and more than happy to answer what were surely the same questions they’re asked by tourists every day. The county worker who stopped his mower and offered to take our picture. The bartender who finger-drew an imaginary map on the bar top for us. The waitress at the Windy Cow Cafe in Texas right out of Central Casting. The appreciative parents snapping a photo of their beaming little boy atop Scott’s motorcycle. Perhaps friendliest of all were the burros wandering the main drag of Oatman, Arizona.

This Route 66 motorcycle ride was a smorgasbord of scenery, riding challenges, culinary adventures, and wonderful conversations with genuinely nice people, the kind you just don’t encounter when bombing down the interstate to the next stopover. Sure, every form of travel has a destination, but we ride for the journey. On Route 66, it’s a journey back to the days of yore.

Read More about Route 66:

America’s Mother Road: Chicago to L.A. on Route 66

Get Your Kickstarts on Route 66

Flagstaff to Barstow on Historic Route 66

Route 66 Motorcycle Ride in Oklahoma

Arizona Route 66 Motorcycle Ride

See all of Rider’s touring stories here.

Ed Kolano has been riding motorcycles since his early teens when he kludged a lawnmower engine to a bicycle frame using U-bolts and wood. These days he enjoys long-distance riding adventures, challenging roads, and impromptu conversations, managing to find the humor in all of it. A former Marine and semi-retired test pilot, he lives in the Pacific Northwest.

The post Yore Mother Road: Recollections of a Route 66 Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

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America’s Mother Road: Chicago to L.A. on Route 66

July 16, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Designated as a federal highway in 1926 and running from Chicago to Los Angeles, Route 66 connected – and often ran right through – Midwest and Southwest downtowns. It was quite literally America’s Main Street. By the 1950s, Route 66 had become an attraction in and of itself, serving as inspiration for numerous hit songs and TV shows and as a livelihood for countless small business owners.

But when the interstate system bypassed much of the old route, the heyday faded, businesses dried up, and many establishments were abandoned. Eventually, the all-American road was almost entirely chopped up and decommissioned.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

The good news is that today, up to 85% of the route remains, and preservation programs are actively at work. Because it has been disconnected and signs removed, however, a ride on Historic Route 66 requires some planning. Local tourism resources can be very helpful.

The starting point of Route 66 is in downtown Chicago within sight of the former Sears Tower (now called the Willis Tower). As you ride out of the city, you’ll see the Blues Brothers dancing atop a neighborhood bar, a big red guitar attached to the Illinois Rock & Roll Museum, and the Old Joliet Prison. Soon I realized there is more to see on Route 66 than could possibly be crammed into one adventure. This is a ride, after all, not a scavenger hunt. I settled into a rhythm, and the joy of road-tripping sprang to life.

In Wilmington, Illinois, I stopped to pose in front of the Gemini Giant, one of the most iconic Route 66 roadside attractions. Across the country, I would encounter similar “Muffler Men” statues that had been variously repurposed. The Gemini Giant – a spaceman holding a rocket – once beckoned hungry travelers to the Launching Pad Drive-In; now his commanding presence graces South Island Park. Wilmington was also the first of many towns where I discovered a large Route 66 mural. All it needed to create the perfect photo was a motorcycle propped in the foreground.

In St. Louis, I was determined not to let the heat keep me from getting a photo of the Gateway Arch. But after that, I turned to the interstate for rescue. Points of interest in the downtown core just didn’t seem worth the fight, and it wasn’t until I was well out of the city that I returned to U.S. 66 and again breathed deep.

In the cool shade of Ozark oaks and chestnuts in Newburg, Missouri, I discovered a battered sign for John’s Modern Cabins standing, ironically, over three collapsing log shacks. In Sullivan, on the other hand, I pulled over in front of Shamrock Court Motel, a vacant building of stonework too beautiful to discard. Happily, it was the first of many classic buildings I would encounter where the local Route 66 association was busily engaged in restoration. Typical of early motor courts, it features a series of rooms arranged in a semicircle around a central courtyard.

A nearby barn roof bids travelers to see “Meramec Caverns, Next Exit,” and to dine at “Stuckey’s, Since 1937.” And I couldn’t resist the puerile invitation to stop at Uranus Fudge Factory for a giggle. Billboards had been full of innuendo for miles, and the fictional town of Uranus (located in the real town St. Roberts in Pulaski County, Missouri) comprised a row of confectionaries selling candy, gifts, T-shirts (don’t buy one for your mother), and of course, fudge.

From Missouri, I breezed through the southeast corner of Kansas and into Oklahoma with its sprawling cattle ranches. In the tiny town of Commerce, I stopped to pay my respects at the home of baseball legend Mickey Mantle and then explored a retired stretch of Route 66 that was only 9 feet wide. It was hard to imagine that the engineers could not foresee a day when opposing vehicles would regularly need room to pass each other. Simpler times indeed.

The route soon brought me to the Blue Whale of Catoosa. Built in the early 1970s on the edge of a pond, the large concrete whale attracted swimmers who would fling themselves off its tail or slide down its fins. I discovered the water was murky and swimming was no longer permitted, but the whimsical whale continued to draw pop history buffs.

In many small towns, I encountered retro fuel stations, museums, diners, and “The World’s Largest [Gas Pump/Rocking Chair/Cross of Our Lord/Branding Iron],” each continuing the tradition of vying for travelers’ attention. In Amarillo, The Big Texan Steak Ranch still issues its famous challenge: “If you can eat our 72-ounce steak in under an hour, it’s free.” For me, 4.5 lb of meat was out of the question, but I left the restaurant with a full and happy belly en route to the famed Cadillac Ranch, where a row of spraypainted cars are buried nosedown in an Amarillo cow pasture. Legend has it that the infamous site was born from the misadventures of a man who drank too much whiskey, lost big at poker, and had to bury his beloved collection.

Aiming for Tucumcari, New Mexico, I watched as the tawny bunchgrass turned to stunted creosote bushes, and the distant mesas crept ever closer. In the mellow light of late afternoon, I rolled up to the Blue Swallow Motel with its pink and blue neon sign, a classic Buick parked in front, and a garage attached to every room. This is one of the best-known and most authentic accommodations on Route 66, and I enjoyed a quiet evening with other travelers, all of us sitting outside in the courtyard under the neon and starlight.

The next morning at the Blue Hole, a small lake in Santa Rosa, the sapphire water was so still and clear that I wondered if I could see the bottom, but 82 feet is a long way down. The hole is deeper than it is wide (60 feet), and it’s fed by an underground spring that keeps the temperature at a constant 62 degrees. I watched as three divers in wetsuits completed their scuba training. And soon an intrepid mom with her three teenaged boys cajoled each other into jumping off the rocky ledge. They came up shouting – and then did it again.

Across the limitless stretches of Oklahoma, Texas, and New Mexico, Route 66 often disappeared – either abandoned on the open range or laid to rest under sprawling I-40. Posted speed limits were often 75 mph, and keeping up with the flow meant pushing my Suzuki V-Strom, nicknamed Suzette, to 85. Finding the two-lane Mother Road again was always a happy moment: Not only was it the focus of my trip, but the headlong traffic disappeared, and I had the forgotten road to myself.

In Albuquerque, while searching for a place to wild camp in the gathering dusk, the ride up into the mountains caught my breath. Below me lay the city, its streetlights twinkling along the valley, and a full moon was just clearing the distant peaks.

The next day, scattered ocotillo and saltbush signaled my entrance to Arizona, where I made a detour through Petrified Forest National Park. Approaching Winslow, a voice in my helmet began leading the Eagles in a continuous loop of “Take It Easy.” It is state law, of course, that when in Winslow, Arizona, you must stop to stand on the corner where a bronze statue of Glenn Frey awaits the girl in the flatbed Ford. A red one just happens to be parked at the curb.

Rolling into Flagstaff brought an entirely new landscape: Soaring ponderosa pines filled the city with their perfect shapes like an army of jubilant Christmas trees. As I rode through deep forests to the west, their vanilla scent wafted on the breeze – which was a refreshing 70 degrees. I should not have been surprised by the temperature, given that Flagstaff sits 6,800 feet above sea level. Just west of town, I-40 crosses the Arizona Divide at 7,335 feet – the highest elevation on all of Route 66.

As I inched ever closer to the Mojave Desert, the daily extremes became more pronounced. Days continued to broil, but the nights were beginning to call for my Sea-to-Summit sleeping bag liner. Beyond Peach Springs, the chip-sealed route was narrow and bordered on both shoulders with long berms of dirt – a feeble defense against torrential monsoon rains that can trigger flash flooding. Rather obviously, signs located at every dip warned “DO NOT ENTER WHEN FLOODED.” Or perhaps it wasn’t so obvious: I was amused to learn of Arizona’s “Idiot Law,” which specifies that if you enter a flooded road and get stuck, the authorities will not help – rescue and the associated expenses are on you.

Route 66 soon began a long series of twists and switchbacks as it rose into the Black Mountains. With no guardrails, no shoulders, and loose gravel in the corners, it was a demanding ride. Perhaps in a nod to the Tail of the Dragon, a roadside sign claimed there were 191 curves in 8 miles, but on this route, no one was racing.

I arrived in the Wild West ghost town of Oatman on a Sunday afternoon of a long weekend, meaning tourists were in full attendance. The main street was even temporarily closed for a gunfight – I saw two men fall with my own eyes. The biggest attraction, of course, is the wild burros. Oatman was a turn-of-the-century gold-mining town using hundreds of burros to haul ore and supplies, but when the boom went bust and the population moved on, the animals were simply turned loose to graze in the mountains. Their descendants still wander the hills around the town – and frequent the streets where delighted visitors offer free handouts.

Crossing into California, I made a loop through Joshua Tree National Park and swung south on a detour that would take me down (quite literally to 200 feet below sea level) around the Salton Sea to Slab City and Salvation Mountain. The result of one man’s lifelong religious devotion, Salvation Mountain is a 50-foot-tall monument of adobe and bright paint proclaiming “God Is Love.” Next door stands Slab City, an abandoned army base where vagrants and off-the-grid dwellers have moved in and claimed it as “The Last Free Place in America.” And of course, in the desert around Borrego Springs, I had to snap photos of the iron sculptures of horses, camels, elephants, scorpions, and a great mythical dragon that appears to swim through the sand (and under the road).

My return to Route 66 meant braving the sprawl of L.A. – a daunting prospect if not for lane-splitting, that most blessed California concession. I wandered the city and got photos of the iconic Hollywood sign and of course, the Walk of Fame. Dinner was at a staple of Route 66: Irv’s Burgers, where the walls are adorned with photos of celebrity guests, including David Lee Roth (with bikini-clad twins), the Wayne and Garth characters of Wayne’s World (played by actors Mike Myers and Dana Carvey), Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, Jeff Bridges, and Linda Ronstadt.

Arriving bright and early the next morning at the Santa Monica Pier, I expected I’d have to walk the final quarter mile to a sign reading “66: End of the Trail.” Instead, a security guard at the pier’s entrance looked me up and down and then glanced left and right.

“It’s early,” he said. “No one’s here; go ahead.”

And so after 2,448 miles through farmland and forests, mountains and deserts, I posed for photos with Suzette at the end of the road – at the very end of the pier. We’d done it! Strangers sensed a celebration and gathered around. Some wanted to talk. Others offered fist bumps and handshakes. Common to all was a kind of nostalgic admiration for our achievement – a reverence that could only be stirred by the myth of America’s Mother Road.

See all of Rider’s touring stories here

Route 66 Resources

Jeff Davison is a retired teacher who, for many years, spent his summers exploring North America on two wheels. Now that he can ignore school bells, he rides longer distances for weeks or months at a time. He lives in Ontario, Canada, with his intrepid partner, Stephanie.

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Getting Twisted: Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

May 14, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Twisted Sisters in Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride — Throughout our nine-day, four-state, 4,200-mile journey, Eric always had a smile on his face (although it was sometimes hidden behind a balaclava). (Photos by the author)

Months before the Great North American Eclipse of 2024, which would follow a 124-mile-wide “path of totality” from Texas to Maine on April 8, my friend Eric Birns found the perfect place to experience several minutes of darkness within the path: Ingram, Texas, the closest location to our home in Ventura, California.

Not only would Ingram be in the path of totality, it’s also located in the heart of Texas Hill Country. Riding the renown Twisted Sisters – Ranch-to-Market Roads 335, 336, and 337 – has been on my moto bucket list for years, so we hatched a plan.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

First, we’d borrow a couple of Grand American Touring bikes from Harley-Davidson. Second, we’d load them up and spend two long days riding 1,400 miles from Ventura to San Antonio (hotels within the path of totality were expensive and booked far in advance). Third, we’d position ourselves in Ingram on the morning of Monday, April 8, allowing us plenty of time to settle in before the eclipse was predicted to begin at 12:14 p.m. (totality would start around 1:34 and last 4 minutes, 27 seconds). And fourth, after the eclipse, we’d spend the rest of the week enjoying some scenic riding (“The Great Wide Open,” our report about riding through the Big Bend area of Texas, was published in the March issue).

Getting There | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

If you must log back-to-back 700-mile days on major highways, Harley’s Road Glide and Street Glide are good choices. They are comfortable, offer good wind protection, deliver generous torque from their throbbing V-Twins, hold plenty of gear (boosted with optional Tour Paks), and have top-notch infotainment systems.

Many motorcyclists hate interstates, but they can’t be beat for efficiency. We spent most of the first day crossing the deserts of California and Arizona on Interstate 10. For a little variety, east of Phoenix we hopped on U.S. Route 60, winding our way through Devil’s Canyon in the Superstition Mountains and passing through the mining towns of Superior and Globe.

We crossed into New Mexico at sunset and crashed hard in a cheap motel in Lordsburg. After waking up dark and early to find frost on our seats, we put on our warmest layers and wind-blocking rainsuits to fight the 10-degree wind chill as we continued east on I-10. We were cold and numb when the sun finally began to rise above the horizon in front of us, blindingly bright but not yet warm. After two hours of freezing our tails off, we thawed out in a Cracker Barrel while filling our bellies with hot coffee and a gravy-slathered breakfast.

The rest of the day was an uneventful “eastbound and down” cruise to San Antonio, where we checked into a Motel 6 and walked to the nearest bar for a celebratory beer.

Elusive Eclipse | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

On Monday morning, we rode an hour north on I-10, passing several brightly lit DOT signs that warned “NO STOPPING ON HIGHWAY TO VIEW ECLIPSE.” Soon after exiting at Kerrville, we started seeing homemade signs posted in yards and driveways offering parking spaces for $20 and up. We followed Main Street through town to neighboring Ingram. There was an eclipse festival near the high school, but parking cost $60.

We pulled into a small shopping plaza called The Dam Center, so named because it’s across the street from Ingram Dam, a low, wide concrete barrier on the Guadalupe River. We paid $10 each to park, which gave us access to a bathroom at Domino’s Pizza and food at the Que-Zeen BBQ trailer. Alas, the PowerHour Church and Dam Tattoo were closed, so redemption and indelible souvenirs would have to wait.

As the eclipse approached, the parking lot filled and a crowd gathered atop Ingram Dam. There was a party atmosphere, with families grilling, kids playing, and teenagers riding innertubes down the dam’s short spillway.

Cloudy conditions meant that we got only peekaboo views of the sun using disposable eclipse glasses like what you wear for a 3D movie. As the partial eclipse progressed, the sky grew progressively darker, as if a storm was brewing.

When the eclipse became total – when the moon blocked out the sun’s direct light and only its corona was visible around the moon’s perimeter – it was as if the Spirit in the Sky immediately turned down a dimmer switch. It wasn’t totally dark, more like a spooky twilight, but dark enough for streetlights to come on.

The clouds robbed us of an unobstructed view of the eclipse, but it was a surreal experience nonetheless. Birds stopped chirping, and the sky took on a strange appearance, what one website described as a “360-degree sunset.”

All too quickly, the totality ended, like someone flipping on the lights at a party. Everyone was bummed it was over, and after the long lead up, the comedown was hard and fast. As folks packed up and headed home, we geared up and hit the road.

Twisted Sisters | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

We rode west on State Route 39, a rolling ride among shade trees alongside the Guadalupe River and then its South Fork. The farther we rode, the more rural the area became, family homes giving way to sprawling ranches. After 25 miles, we turned south on Ranch-to-Market (RM) 187, a gently curving road that goes past the Lost Maples State Natural Area, which offers camping, hiking, and fishing.

At the Lost Maples Country Store in Vanderpool, we turned west on RM 337, our introduction to one of the famous Twisted Sisters. RM 337, which stretches across Bandera and Real counties, is the longest of the three sisters at 56 miles, from Medina in the east to Camp Wood in the west.

The Hill Country gets its name from lumpy terrain made of limestone and granite. Much of the topography includes exposed rock, narrow clefts, and features such as springs, caves, and sinkholes where water has eroded soluble rock. Most of the land is privately owned, and it is the Ranch-to-Market roads carved into the craggy landscape that make the area such a popular destination for motorcyclists.

Riding west on RM 337, Eric and I rumbled up and over a ridgeline and wound through several tight, narrow canyons, crossing into Real County, known as the “Swiss Alps of Texas.” With unforgiving rock walls on one side and guard rails on the other, riders need to be on top of their game.

See all of Rider‘s Texas touring stories here.

We soon descended into the Frio River valley, where the land flattens out. We pulled into Leakey, a small town of 315 residents that’s the county seat. Motorcyclists are welcomed with open arms in Leakey, which has gas, food, and lodging. Just west of town on RM 337 is the Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop and Bent Rim Grill, a gathering place that claims to be the “Official Headquarters for the Three Twisted Sisters” and sells a wide variety of Twisted Sisters merchandise.

We topped off our tanks in Leakey and rode north on U.S. Route 83 a short way before veering left on RM 336. Just past a self-storage place is The Hog Pen on 336 BBQ, another motorcycle-friendly spot. We continued north along the West Frio River, and soon the road ascended and followed several narrow ridgelines. Looking at a topographical map of this area (or more likely, Terrain view on Google Maps), the land has a wrinkled appearance, like the folds and contours of the human brain. Weaving into and out of those crevasses and crannies is RM 336, making it ideal for motorcyclists who love curves.

After about 12 miles, RM 336 flattens out on a broad plateau and the curves open up, giving riders a reprieve. A few miles later, the road ends at State Route 41. We turned west and cruised for 14 mostly straight miles to the northern terminus of RM 335, the third Twisted Sister.

See all of Rider‘s South touring stories.

We were ready for more curves, and soon enough we dropped into the brain terrain like we’d enjoyed on RM 336. The tight bends don’t last, though, as RM 335 soon begins to follow the gradually curving course of Hackberry Creek. There were still plenty of ups and downs to keep us entertained, and we enjoyed having the road to ourselves while admiring the rugged scenery on a bluebird spring day.

After nearly 30 miles, RM 335 ends at the town of Barksdale. We rode a few miles south to Camp Wood and then turned east on RM 337, which we rode for its entire length to Medina. On its western end, RM 337 is characterized by wide, graceful curves and a roller coaster of hillcrests.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

East of Leakey, we repeated part of RM 337 in reverse, back to the Lost Maples Country Store. From there, we rode south on RM 187 for a mile and then continued east for the final leg of RM 337, a fast and fun romp through big sweepers and over several rocky ridges to Medina. After turning south on State Route 16, we soon arrived in Bandera, a cool little town known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World.”

Riding the Twisted Sisters route in a clockwise manner, from Medina to Camp Wood, up to State Route 41, and back down to Leakey, is about 140 miles and can be done in a few hours. But that just scratches the surface of what’s on tap in Texas Hill Country, which covers 31,000 square miles in 18 counties.

Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride Resources

Texas Tourism
Kerrville/Kerr County, TX
Frio Canyon, TX (Leakey, Concan, and Rio Frio)
Frio Canyon Motorcycle Stop & Bent Rim Grill (Leakey)
Real County, TX (Leakey and Camp Wood)
Bandera, TX

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Clarksville Cruise – Tennessee Motorcycle Loop

April 18, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Clarksville, also known as Queen City, sits along the Cumberland River in Tennessee about 50 miles northwest of Nashville. Lifelong residents mingle with newcomers from the university and Army post, resulting in a mix of backgrounds that continues to breathe new life into this historic tobacco-trading town. It’s that combination of old and new, charm and creativity, that makes it unique.

Click here to view the route on REVER

This Tennessee motorcycle loop starts and ends at Clarksville’s Liberty Park, a great place to watch boats go into the marina or warm up on the walking trails. From the park, I headed east out of the city on State Route 76. For those needing some gear, two motorcycle dealerships are located on this road.

Related: 2025 CFMOTO 450CL-C Preview

Taking a left on Old Clarksville Springfield Road, my first stop was Port Royal State Historic Park. The ride to this site had little traffic, and the park is small and walkable, consisting of the historic downtown area of Port Royal, a town established in 1797 along the Red River. The old general store serves as the visitor center.

Just north of Port Royal is Adams, home of the Bell Witch cabin and cave. Tours of the cabin and cave begin in May, so I missed my chance on this mid-April ride. Maybe that was fortunate, since I’ve heard stories of bad luck following those who enter the cave. Those brave enough to enter will surely enjoy the stories of John Bell’s neighbor, Kate Batts, whose spirit is said to reside on the property.

From Adams, I headed north into Kentucky on U.S. Route 41, passing through quiet farmland on a gentle ride and giving myself time to enjoy the sunshine. I then took Kentucky State Route 1453 south and stopped in at the MB Roland Distillery. If you like whiskey, consider taking the tour of the distillery, and don’t forget to grab a bottle on your way out.

Heading south back into Tennessee from Kentucky State Route 115 consists of more farmland until the residential areas around the Fort Campbell Army post come into view. Riding into Clarksville’s downtown area, you’ll be greeted with many great eating spots to choose from for a lunch break. On this ride, I picked an old favorite: Blackhorse Pub & Brewery. This spot serves up comforting meals and made-in-house brews, and it’s been a focal point of downtown Clarksville for decades. From Blackhorse, the downtown area is very walkable and includes a park, the Customs House Museum, a meadery, a used bookstore, the Roxy Regional Theatre, and plenty more to explore.

After lunch, I cruised through Austin Peay State University, my alma mater. I remembered walking with my now-husband to class as we chatted about our plans for the future, completely unaware that my education in English and creative writing would lead to a career of riding and writing about motorcycles. The campus is especially beautiful in spring when the dogwoods and other flowering trees are in full bloom.

See all of Rider’s Tennessee touring stories here

About 3 miles northeast of APSU is Dunbar Cave State Park. Parking beside the visitor center, it’s a short 0.15-mile walk down a wooded path to reach the mouth of the cave. Entering the cave requires booking a guided tour, but the floor in front of the cave’s mouth is open for visitors to shake a leg on. That’s right: The concrete platform in front of the cave was used as a dance-floor before the invention of air conditioning, with consistent 56-degree air blowing out of the cave to cool dancers and performers.

The second loop of this ride heads west from Clarksville and is curvier than the first loop. Heading west on U.S. Route 79 and then south on State Route 233, riders are treated to winding pavement through low-traffic, heavily wooded country, with the road hopping from hill to hollow to hill and snaking along creeks. From Needmore, head south on Lylewood Road to drop down next to the river and ride to the Lylewood Inn.

Offering reprieve in an area with no other store or business for miles, Lylewood Inn is a large brick house set on a hilltop overlooking the river. The Mercantile store beside the inn offers jams, jellies, pickled goods, homemade gifts, and quilting supplies. Originally built in the early 1800s, this house has an interesting history involving arson and the Civil War, and it’s worth a stop.

After popping into the Mercantile at Lylewood Inn, continue on Lylewood Road, which turns into Wildcat Creek Road. At the end of the road, turn left on State Route 46 and ride about 3 miles to the Cumberland City ferry. Ferry fees for out-of-county motorcycles are only $1, but be aware that the ferry only accepts cash and no bills larger than $5. From here, you can connect to my Small Town Tennessee Loop (find this Favorite Ride in the February 2024 issue) to extend your trip.

Sticking to my planned route for the day, I entered Cumberland City and headed northeast on State Route 149 for a leisurely cruise on the opposite side of the Cumberland River to enter Clarksville, arriving back at Liberty Park. This route is passable year-round, but a spring or fall trip is best for colorful trees and pleasant temperatures. Finishing this Tennessee motorcycle loop, you’ll find more to explore in Clarksville, like the river walk in McGregor Park or the Fort Defiance Civil War Park & Interpretive Center.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

Tennessee Motorcycle Loop Resources

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Touring the 9 Lakes Region of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride

March 17, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride 9 Lakes Region — The historic Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, one of many historic stops along this East Tennessee motorcycle ride, is surrounded by steep mountainous terrain and thick vegetation. It’s beautiful to look at but inconvenient for prisoners with hopes to escape. (Photos by the author and Jake Williams)

As my husband, Jake, and I packed our saddlebags for a three-day East Tennessee motorcycle ride in the 9 Lakes Region, I realized it would be our first multiday motorcycle journey together. A Saturday cruise on local roads is common for us, but this was new territory.

Day 1: To the Gap

As we exited at Harriman, the tree tunnel of I-40 was shed for the characterful scene of an East Tennessee small town. Mom-and-pop shops and restaurants lined the road, and buildings were brightly painted with murals displaying the town’s history and culture.

Harriman’s streets were soon replaced with riverside riding along the Emory and Clinch rivers. We followed the rivers toward Norris Lake, where we stopped at Hickory Star Marina in search of some grub.

We’d picked an oppressively hot weekend for our trip. Luckily, ice-cold sweet tea flows here like the area’s many rivers, and we had a glass in our hands on the marina’s dockside patio in no time, followed by sandwiches. Norris Lake gleams with a vibrant turquoise resulting from the lake’s depth and purity.

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1, Day 2, or Day 3 to view routes on REVER

We continued north, where the road often rose onto a ridge to reveal views of tree-covered mountainsides before dipping down into refreshing shade alongside cool creeks.

We reached Cumberland Gap with time to explore the town before supper. Our lodging for the night was the Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast, built in the late 1800s along a burbling stream that runs through the town.

Cumberland Gap is the kind of place an artist would use as a retreat to find inspiration and tranquility. We strolled the town, which is surrounded on all sides by Cumberland Gap National Historic Park, and hiked up to Tri-State Peak, where Tennessee, Virginia, and Kentucky meet. Although the hike was short, it was steep enough to renew our appreciation for our favorite mode of transportation, and we gained respect for the people who used this path to traverse the Appalachians long before the invention of motorized travel.

We slept well that night and woke up to a delicious and filling breakfast served at the long dining table on the inn’s main floor. After pleasant chats with other visitors over coffee, we were on the road again, this time heading south.

Day 2: Carving a Trail

The road toward Tazewell offered gorgeous morning views across the mountains, which its gentle curves and good visibility allow riders to take full advantage of.

We continued through Bean Station and White Pine before taking an exploratory journey in search of the Rankin coaling tower. A remnant of the time when trains were powered by steam, this tower is one of few remaining.

We climbed the steep one-lane Rankin Hill Road and then dropped down toward Douglas Lake. We followed the lake north until the road turned to rough gravel, on which I didn’t feel confident testing my nonexistent off-road skills on the Honda Rebel 1100T DCT cruiser. Jake was happy to continue on his Can-Am Ryker Rally for a mile or so while I guzzled water beside the railroad tracks. I was content to take a break for the first five minutes. After 10, I started missing the breeze through my mesh jacket. After 15, I became worried.

Apparently knowing the exact amount of time I’m willing to wait before embarking on a search-and-rescue attempt, Jake finally rode back into view. He’d found some locals fishing by the lake who told him where to see the tower in the distance, but he would’ve had to wade through shallow water to get near it.

Back on track, we continued to Norris Dam State Park, where we parked in front of Clinch River Brewery beside other motorcycles to have lunch. Just down the road from the brewery and across the dam, an overlook provided a scenic spot to digest our food.

On Old Tennessee 63 heading north, we enjoyed a pleasant and shaded ride alongside Cove Creek and railroad tracks before heading west through Huntsville and on to our destination for the evening, Rugby.

As the speed limit decreased on the way into Rugby, we saw a sign warning us to use caution and slow down for Irish road bowling. I wondered if Jake was as perplexed as I was. My guess was some sort of construction project.

Among the town’s historic Victorian buildings, residents of all ages crowded the main street, some with large balls in hand, some with tall poles, and many waving at us as we rode by. As we approached the action to investigate, a man named Tony welcomed us.

Tony explained that Irish road bowling is a game in which teams attempt to roll heavy cannon balls from one point in the road to another point farther away, then back to the original point. The team to make it back to the original point in the least number of rolls wins the game. As he talked, the townsfolk cheered and rooted for their teams. Tony displayed what we came to recognize as a common trait among the people here: a welcoming attitude that makes strangers feel like friends and family.

See all of Rider’s Tennessee touring stories here

When the game was over, we continued about a mile to Grey Gables Bed & Breakfast, where owner Linda Brooks Jones greeted us. Supper was ready, so we quickly washed the road off and headed down to the dining room.

Over a delicious meal of zucchini soup, homemade bread, salad, boneless pork chops with carrots and broccoli, and bananas foster, all washed down with iced almond tea, we enjoyed conversation with the other guests gathered around the table. While we had dessert, Linda joined us and told us more about the town, which was founded as a place for the second sons of the English gentry – those who would not inherit the bulk of their family’s fortune – to live in tranquility. I can see why this place was selected for a life of peace and leisure.

Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws

The next day would be the most historic of our trip, including places of somber importance as well as locations of vibrant culture. Our first stop was just down the road at the R.M. Brooks store.

After a delicious breakfast, we followed Linda to her family’s store. Now run by Linda’s daughter, R.M. Brooks was built in 1930 and is a prominent meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. Linda was happy to play tour guide, pointing out the attached house where her grandparents had lived and telling us more of the store’s rich history.

Tennessee 9 Lakes Region — The R.M. Brooks store has been a gathering place for residents and visitors alike for generations.

After promising Linda that we’d be back in time for supper, we continued south through Wartburg and on to Harriman. We learned that Harriman, known as “The Town that Temperance Built,” was founded in 1891 as an ideal industrial city built on foundational values of sobriety, exalted character, and learning. Although its founding core tenants sound somewhat restrictive, the town is lively and vibrant.

Looking for something cool to drink, we stopped in at The Sweet Spot and were greeted by a man named Blake, who pointed out historical photos on his shop’s walls as he answered our questions about the town. We bought a couple RC Colas and a small loaf of banana nut bread to enjoy as we strolled by the historic places Blake had recommended, like the grand Temperance Building and the historic Cornstalk Heights district.

When we finished our snack and walk, we saddled up again. Remembering our promise to Linda, we didn’t spend too long at the next three historic stops on our trip, which included the 18th-century Fort Southwest Point, the Wheat Community African Burial Ground, and the town of Oak Ridge, famous for its role in the Manhattan Project.

About 27 miles north of Oak Ridge, we found ourselves at Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary, a historic prison nestled among mountains covered in thick growth, making escape nearly impossible, which James Earl Ray, who assassinated Martin Luther King Jr., discovered in 1977.

Next up was the best road of the trip, State Route 116, one part of the popular Devil’s Triangle loop. We rode the curviest section, which rivals the Tail of the Dragon with challenging corners and exciting twists. It was also less populated than the Dragon tends to be, allowing us to enjoy it at our own pace.

See all of Rider’s South touring stories.

When the road came to an end at an intersection by a creek, our preplanned route told us to go left, which would take us along a gravel road. From what I could see, the road looked smooth enough, so we continued on, hoping it would turn back to pavement soon.

It did turn to pavement…in about 10 miles. By the end, we were covered in a layer of white dust and had lost time. After brushing off the dust as best as we could, we continued to our last historic stop of the day, the Scott County Jail in Huntsville, where we arrived a few minutes after closing.

We were disappointed to miss this tour, since we’d heard the owners of the jail are two women motorcyclists, and we’d hoped to chat with them. If a plan to return to the area had been only a vague thought at the start of the trip, it was now a certainty.

We kept our promise to Linda and made it back to Grey Gables in time for another delicious meal and friendly conversation around the dining table. At the end of the evening, Linda gave us a hug and a copy of her cookbook, The Table at Grey Gables. As a thunderstorm washed the dust off our bikes, we settled in for a good rest.

A Journey Home

The next morning, we had another fantastic breakfast before packing our saddlebags for a final time. We said our goodbyes and rolled out. As the mountains depressed into gentle rolling hills, I was surprised to find that I wasn’t disappointed to be headed home. Instead, I was excited to recall the many conversations and memories Jake and I would share about our first weekend-long motorcycle trip together, and I was happy that I’d be able to write this story to look back on many years from now.

See all of Rider’s touring stories here

9 Lakes of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride Resources

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Chasing Dragons: Tazewell County, Virginia Motorcycle Ride

March 17, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

Tazewell County Virginia Motorcycle Ride Chasing Dragons — Riders on Kudzu Curve on Back of the Dragon (SR-16). (Photos by the author)

While many Southern towns have struggled with the disappearance of anchor industries, some have bounced back on a rising tide of renewal and resurgence. One such town is Tazewell (pronounced TAZZ-well), located in the heart of southwestern Virginia’s slice of the Appalachian Mountains and my destination for this Virginia motorcycle ride.

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

Founded in 1799, Tazewell was a thriving coal-mining town for nearly a century. When the coal industry declined, so did the town’s fortunes. But the downturn was short-lived. A shared love of twisty roads has been breathing new life into Tazewell, which has become a destination for motorcycle and car enthusiasts alike.

For those who love curves, the primary draw is Back of the Dragon, the 32-mile section of State Route 16 that claims 438 curves and 3,500 feet of elevation change as it winds south from Tazewell to Marion. I took a long solo ride from my home in Kentucky to ride the Back of the Dragon and to enjoy the third annual Old Town Revival, a weekend-long rally held in June.

After a loosely curvy ride via state highways on my Kawasaki Versys-X 300, I pulled up to my home away from home, the Farmhouse Suite (see sidebar below). This deluxe hotel suite is in the bottom level of the Haus of Taylor art gallery, which displays fine art and curated goods.

Famished after my long motorcycle ride, I took advantage of the suite’s central location and walked downtown. Several restaurants are nearby, including Bee Noodle’d, with bright, bee-themed decor and a friendly staff.

The restaurant is known for their local ingredients, particularly honey, so I ordered one of their specialties, the Bee Mac: homemade white-cheddar mac ’n cheese topped with crispy honey-teriyaki chicken. A perfect blend of sweet, creamy, and tangy, it was comfort food at its finest, washed down with a refreshing Bailee’s Famous Lemon Bee honey-infused lavender lemonade.

After eating, I continued strolling down Main Street through Tazewell’s charming downtown to the Back of the Dragon Brewery. Festivities for the Old Town Revival rally, a motorcycle and car enthusiast gathering, were already underway. Cruise-ins, stunt shows, live music, derby races, Harley-Davidson giveaways, dyno testing, tattoo artists, vendors, and much more were available for anyone to enjoy.

The purpose of the OTR is to draw folks to Tazewell by giving them a venue to engage with and enjoy their favorite pastimes with fellow enthusiasts. The event’s slogan is “Ride ’Em or Drive ’Em,” and all brands and types of vehicles are welcome. Motorcycles lined the streets as live music played from a stage. Vendor booths dotted the strip leading up to the BOTD Brewery, where a huge dragon sculpture is ready for photos to prove you rode (or drove) the famous route.

Inside the brewery is a wide array of merchandise and memorabilia. I hadn’t ridden the Back of the Dragon yet, so I skipped the merch until I earned my bona fides. After enjoying the sights and sounds of the rally, I walked back to the Farmhouse Suite and lounged amongst the stylish and tasteful decor, enjoyed a decadent soak in the rainfall shower, and fell asleep in the king-size bed. This suite was going to spoil me!

Early the next morning, I rode my Versys to the start of the BOTD route. The REVER app said it should take 56 minutes to complete the 32-mile section of SR-16, which is an average of 34 mph even though the posted speed limit is 55 mph. That was my first clue I was in for a challenge.

The BOTD route works its way up and over three mountain ranges, and it is full of exhilarating, winding curves of all shapes, sizes, and types. Of the 438 curves, some have names like Kudzu Curve, Cliff Hanger, Zero Gravity Curve, First (and Second) Dragon Slalom, Lazy Dragon, and a series of them named after a dragon’s head, elbow, wing, and knee.

Some of the large, sweeping curves can be ridden at 55 mph, but be prepared to get on the brakes as many others are blind or tighten up and are signposted at 15 or 25 mph. After enjoying the back-and-forth slaloms, tight switchbacks, and fast sweepers, I arrived in Marion, where SR-16 ends at U.S. Route 11.

Taking the BOTD back north provides an entirely new ride. I found myself weaving through turns on one mountain, then riding straight through rolling farmland with beautiful views as I prepared for my ascent onto the next mountain.

The weather on my trip was perfect, and with SR-16 being nearly flawless in terms of pavement quality, I could focus on the turns without worrying about bumps and potholes.

After my first two passes on the BOTD route, I returned to BOTD Brewery for lunch. The OTR rally was in full swing. Motorcycles lined Main Street far off into the distance, and people were meandering around, checking out custom motorcycles and chatting with other bikers. Battling the dragon worked up an appetite, so I got into line to get a slice of wood-fired pizza. Others poured ice-cold beers from the self-service taps.

Walking around the brewery grounds, I checked out the Harley-Davidson motorcycles that were being offered for giveaways and competitions. Vendors sold T-shirts and leather items, and one would even repair your leather vest or jacket with an onsite sewing shop. Samples of energy drinks were handed out, and live music set a vibrant tone for the event.

Finishing my pizza, I went inside the brewery to purchase my hard-earned BOTD merch. The brewery started to clear out as rally participants went on to the fairgrounds to watch the stunt shows and derby car events. I opted to ride the BOTD route a few more times instead.

For my next few BOTD passes, I decided to stop at all the overlooks. The first was Kudzu Curve, a long sweeper surrounded by the climbing kudzu vine found throughout the South. A bit farther sits the Million Dollar View overlook, with a wide-open vista across the mountains and surrounding countryside.

My next stop was Hungry Mother State Park, where I checked out the beautiful lake scenery and wooden cabins. A highlight of this state park is the lake’s beach, so I walked over to the sandy promenade and admired the blue sky reflected on the placid surface. Without a swimsuit – and guessing that Kevlar-lined motorcycle gear wouldn’t be the best beach attire – I headed back, glancing back green-eyed at the cool water.

After another night of sleeping in luxury, I woke up with a long ride in my future. Bounding through the peaceful Virginia countryside lined with residences, antique barns, and farming equipment, I passed through Saltville before crossing over BOTD again. My route would follow a road that appeared on the map to be extremely twisty before ending in Burke’s Garden, a valley known for its views and Amish heritage.

My route to Burke’s Garden via State Route 623 included a single-lane gravel road. While I had ridden on gravel before, I’m not an experienced off-road rider. I pressed on, and it wasn’t until I got to that first 180-degree uphill hairpin that I realized this was the curvy section of road that I had seen on the map.

As I rode through hairpin after hairpin on gravel, dirt, and rock, I focused on my training. I breathed and loosened my death-grip on the handlebar. I turned my head to look through the sharp turns and positioned my body to ensure I didn’t turn wide and drop off the steep edge. When one hairpin turned downhill, causing me to gain too much speed for comfort, I remembered to gently press the back brake instead of the common tendency to forcibly grab the front. Then – suddenly – I was on pavement again! I let out an exclamation of joy.

See all of Rider’s South U.S. touring stories here.

A few miles later, I was in the “bowl” of Burke’s Garden, sitting on the stoop of the Amish General Store enjoying the mountains surrounding me. Resting and snacking, I was grateful for the gravel road experience and the beautiful views, even if it was nerve-wracking. I was also grateful that I would be heading back to Tazewell a different way!

Riding a fun, paved twisty out of Burke’s Garden, I arrived at BOTD Brewery and looked forward to the prospect of more pizza. This time, I ordered the specialty Kudzu Pie, a white pizza with caramelized onion, arugula, and a phenomenal balsamic drizzle. While enjoying the crust, with that chewy bite and rustic, smoky flavor of true wood-fired pizza, I learned the history from the director of BOTD Brewery, Beth Takach, and her father, the man behind it all, Larry Davidson.

Larry, a long-time motorcyclist and even longer resident of Tazewell, had always known how special SR-16 was. He believed it could be a destination for motorcycle lovers around the world. Armed with a dozen T-shirts, he approached other motorcyclists over a decade ago, gauging their interest in the area’s riding. When he sold out that day, he knew that others loved this special road just as much as he did and that this could be a true asset to the small town.

Larry helped get SR-16 designated as the official Back of the Dragon motorcycle route in 2010. He opened the BOTD Brewery, which greets riders at the end of their ride with hot pizza, a cold beverage, and memorable merchandise in a lively, motorcycle-friendly environment. Thousands of riders come from far and wide to Tazewell every year to ride the legendary Back of the Dragon. I am proud to say that I am one of them.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

SIDEBAR: Farmhouse Suite

Located at 113 Fincastle Turnpike in the Historic District of Tazewell, the Farmhouse Suite is a distinctive place to stay. The decor blends antique style with modern elements and luxury conveniences. Eco-conscious yet elegant, the suite offers a waterfall shower, sumptuous robes and towels, and delicious snacks and drinks in the pantry and mini fridge. This suite is a comfortable place to sleep and a relaxing place to recharge between rides. Find more info on Vrbo.

Tazewell, Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

The post Chasing Dragons: Tazewell County, Virginia Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Motorcycle News, News

The Great Wide Open: Big Bend, Texas Motorcycle Ride

March 10, 2025 mcnews Leave a comment

You’ve probably heard the saying “Everything’s bigger in Texas.” At 268,596 square miles, it’s by far the largest state in the Lower 48, outsizing California by more than 100,000 square miles. The 14 smallest states would fit comfortably within the borders of Texas with enough room left over for half of Tennessee.

Scan QR codes above or click Day 1 or Day 2 to view routes on REVER

When my buddy Eric Birns and I rode from Ventura, California, to San Antonio to see the solar eclipse last April, we got there in the most efficient way possible: 1,400 miles on Interstate 10 in two days. Efficient, yes, but not much fun, so we vowed that our return trip would be more scenic.

Due west of San Antonio is Big Bend National Park, a place that has long held fascination for me because its remote location limits the number of visitors. It’s also known to have good motorcycling roads.

Big Bend is tucked into an area where the southerly course of the Rio Grande, which forms the park’s southern and eastern boundary as well as the border with Mexico, turns sharply to the north before cutting a wide arc to the east and then southeast on its way to the Gulf of Mexico.

From San Antonio, we rode west on U.S. Route 90, part of which runs close to the border through a parched, barren landscape. Following U.S. 90’s northward arc around Mexico, we gradually gained elevation until we reached Alpine, a small town that sits at 4,462 feet above sea level. As its name suggests, it often gets snow in the winter.

By the time we reached Alpine, Eric and I had traveled more than 2,300 miles over five days. We were traveling in style and comfort on Harley-Davidson’s latest touring bikes, Eric on a sharknosed Road Glide and me on a batwinged Street Glide. Both got modernized styling for 2024, and they’re equipped with a massive 12.3-inch TFT instrument panel paired with a state-of-the-art infotainment system (see sidebar). Our gear was packed into the Harleys’ saddlebags, chopped Tour-Paks, and Nelson-Rigg Traveler Tour/Lite Trunk Bags. We were the voices in each other’s heads thanks to a set of Cardo Packtalk Edge communicators.

As we rode through Alpine, we passed the campus of Sul Ross State University, named after former Texas governor Lawrence Sullivan Ross. A colorful “Greetings from Alpine, Texas” mural downtown informed us that actor Dan Blocker, best known for his role as Hoss on the TV show Bonanza, is a Sul Ross alum. The university also has a leading collegiate rodeo program that has earned nine national championships.

After staying in a somewhat depressing Motel 6 in San Antonio (due to the popularity of the eclipse, affordable lodging near the path of totality was hard to come by), we were spoiled by the Hotel Parker at Quarter Circle 7, located on the west side of Alpine. It has clean, modern rooms with cloud-like beds, tasteful Western decor, and complimentary breakfast.

During our weeklong road trip, Eric and I made it a tradition to end each day with a celebratory dinner. After getting cleaned up, we’d walk to a local restaurant, order a couple of frosty beers, and toast to our shared accomplishment and satisfaction of having explored new places and ridden unfamiliar roads. We’d send a selfie of us smiling and celebrating to our wives back home.

Next door to the Hotel Parker is the Spicewood Bar and Restaurant, which has a full bar and serves hearty West Texas fare in a lively atmosphere. We had the pleasure of dining with Eleazar Cano and Jayme Valles, two locals who run a motorcycle tour company called The Ride of Passage. They know the Big Bend area intimately, and they provided helpful routing suggestions. Jayme also runs a motorcycle repair shop called Alpine Motorsports, and he offered us roadside assistance should we need it.

Big Bend could very well be called the Big Empty, and that’s a good thing. Brewster County, which encompasses Big Bend National Park and towns such as Alpine, Marathon, and Study Butte/Terlingua, covers 6,193 square miles but has less than 9,400 residents. If you want to avoid crowds, this is your place.

Wide-open spaces are what make the Big Bend area so appealing and unique. The Greater Big Bend International Dark Sky Reserve spans over 15,000 square miles in Texas and Mexico and is the largest Dark Sky Certified place in the world. Of course, as motorcyclists, we’re drawn to the roads that cut through those wide-open spaces. It’s an 80-mile ride through high desert from Alpine to the entrance to Big Bend National Park, and there’s very little civilization along the way (hence Jayme’s offer to help if we needed it).

Before entering the park, we rode through Study Butte/Terlingua, a former mining town that’s now an eclectic mix of adventure outfitters (rafting, hiking, horseback riding, Jeep tours, etc.), unique lodging options, and a ghost town. There are bars, restaurants, and shops with a frontier vibe, as well as a world-famous chili cookoff every year.

We entered Big Bend National Park near Maverick Junction. There are several well-maintained paved roads that allow visitors to explore the park, but there are also extensive unpaved roads that provide access to backcountry campsites and other remote areas. We stuck to the tarmac and pointed our big Harleys east toward Chisos Basin.

In addition to its vastness, part of what makes Big Bend so special is its mix of landscapes – river, desert, and mountain environments comingle and create a canvas of rich colors and textures. Dominating the heart of the national park are the rugged Chisos Mountains, reaching a height of 7,825 feet at Emory Peak.

We rode into the mountains on Chisos Basin Road, a steep, winding two-lane road that goes through a rugged canyon and summits a small pass before plunging into a high-elevation basin that’s surrounded by brown volcanic cliffs and peaks on three sides. The road ends at the floor of the 5,400-foot basin, where there is a visitor center, lodge, campground, trailheads, and other amenities.

After buying a few souvenirs, we climbed out of the basin and returned to the main road. We turned east and soon passed Panther Junction, where the park headquarters and a gas station are located. For the next 20 miles, we cruised under an endless blue sky on a long, gradual descent toward the Rio Grande.

At Boquillas Canyon Overlook, we got our first view of the river. It flowed lazily and was surrounded by a corridor of vegetation that looked like a winding green carpet laid upon the arid desert landscape, with the rugged Sierra del Carmen escarpment forming a high brown wall on the Mexico side.

None of the paved national park roads create a loop, so we backtracked on the main road until we reached Santa Elena Junction and turned south on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The road lives up to its name as it follows the western foothills of the Chisos Mountains with several fantastic overlooks, such as Sotol Vista and Mule Ears. Elevation drops as the road descends toward the Rio Grande and passes through Tuff Canyon. The pavement ends near an overlook where the river cuts through the high walls of Santa Elena Canyon.

See all of Rider‘s Texas touring stories here.

We had enjoyed every curve and vista in Big Bend National Park, but what eluded us – what I pictured in my mind’s eye when I imagined a park named after a famous river feature – was the experience of riding along with the river at our side. We found it next door.

Located west of Terlingua on Farm to Market 170, Big Bend Ranch State Park covers 311,000 acres (about one-third the size of the national park), and its southern boundary is the Rio Grande. Beyond Lajitas, FM 170 hugs the river closely, weaving and climbing and descending as it maneuvers around the rugged contours of the canyon. For pure riding enjoyment, the 50 roller-coaster miles from Lajitas to Presidio were a highlight of our entire 4,200-mile, nine-day trip.

After gassing up in the sprawling border town of Presidio, we hightailed it north on U.S. Route 67 to Marfa and then east on U.S. 90 to Alpine. Another celebratory dinner at Spicewood was our reward for covering nearly 400 miles in one long day. While that pace suited us just fine, I recommend spreading a visit to the Big Bend area over a couple of days or longer so you can see more and include some excursions off the bike.

The next day, we bid farewell to Alpine and rode north on State Route 118, which passes through the Chihuahuan Desert to Fort Davis, a small town that was once a frontier military post. The fort is a National Historic Landmark, and many of the old buildings have been restored.

See all of Rider‘s South touring stories.

We continued riding north into the Davis Mountains, with the bright white buildings of the McDonald Observatory visible from in the distance. Perched at 6,800 feet, the University of Texas observatory takes advantage of the region’s dark skies to peer into the far reaches of the universe.

After a pleasant ride through mountains, canyons, and high-desert vistas, SR-118 ended at Interstate 10, bringing our Big Bend journey to a close.

Getting to Big Bend isn’t easy. It requires commitment and, most likely, a long ride from somewhere distant. But it’s well worth the effort. It’s hard to believe such an enormous area can be hiding in plain sight, but things really are bigger in Texas.

See all of Rider‘s touring stories here.

SIDEBAR: Harley-Davidson Road/Street Glides

The Road Glide and Street Glide are Harley-Davidson’s most popular baggers. They’re essentially the same motorcycle except for their fairings: The RG has a frame-mounted sharknose fairing and the SG has a handlebar-mounted batwing fairing.

Updates for 2024 included modernized styling, lower weights, and a larger engine (117ci, up from 107) that makes more power and torque. The Glides are also some of the most high-tech Harleys ever. On the performance side, they have ride modes (Road, Sport, Rain, and Custom) and the Rider Safety Enhancements electronics suite, which includes linked brakes, cornering ABS, Drag Torque Slip Control, and Vehicle Hold Control. In the cockpit, they have a vibrant 12.3-inch touchscreen TFT display, an infotainment system managed by H-D’s Skyline OS, and a 200-watt audio system.

For our 1,400-mile superslab slog from California to Texas, the Glides provided good wind protection and a comfortable ride, aided in part by 43% more rear suspension travel (3 inches, up from 2.1). On curvy roads, such as the Twisted Sisters in the Texas Hill Country and roads throughout the Big Bend area, the Glides handled with confidence, stability, and grace. Their center of gravity is low, allowing them to bend through even the tightest curves with relative ease – and these are heavy machines (811 lb for the SG, 838 lb for the RG).

Harley-Davidson’s big Glides are better than ever. They produce plenty of grunt, they’re comfortable for long miles (we rode them 4,200 miles in nine days), and they strike a good balance between modern sophistication and classic style. You can read our full review here.

Big Bend, Texas Motorcycle Ride Resources

The post The Great Wide Open: Big Bend, Texas Motorcycle Ride appeared first on Rider Magazine.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Motorcycle News, News

50 Best Motorcycle Roads in America

December 17, 2024 mcnews Leave a comment

The December 2024 issue of Rider celebrated the magazine’s 50th anniversary. Over the past half century, we have published thousands of travels stories, favorite rides, tour tests, and features highlighting must-ride roads throughout the U.S. and on every continent except Antarctica. As part of the special anniversary issue, we selected 50 of the best motorcycle roads in America.

Out of 3.9 million miles of roads in this country, these are just a drop in the bucket, covering a mere 13,467 miles. There are thousands more great roads out there, so get going!

(The road are listed more or less alphabetically by state rather than in rank order.)

1. Dalton Highway (Alaska / 414 miles)

Paralleling the Trans‑Alaska Pipeline, this gravel supply road that goes from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay is a bucket‑list adventure route that crosses the Arctic Circle and the Continental Divide. (Photo by Jeff Davison)

2. Jasper Disaster Loop (Arkansas / 56 miles)

This route in the Ozark Mountains, which starts and ends in Jasper, Arkansas, and includes AR 7, AR 43, and AR 74, has hundreds of tight curves and crosses the Buffalo National River twice. (Photo by Bill Stermer)

3. Pig Trail Scenic Byway (Arkansas / 20 miles)

The Ozarks offer a smorgasbord of roads that wind through dense hardwood forests, over scenic ridges, and along burbling rivers. This stretch of AR 23 is one of the region’s best. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

4. Talimena National Scenic Byway (Arkansas, Oklahoma / 54 miles)

This winding road from Mena, Arkansas, (AR 88) to Talihina, Oklahoma, (OK 1) runs along the ridges of Rich Mountain and Winding Stair Mountain in Ouachita National Forest. (Photo by David Bell)

5. Coronado Trail (Arizona / 123 miles)

U.S. 191 in eastern Arizona, which follows a trail used in 1540 by Spanish explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, includes an open‑pit copper mine, high‑alpine meadows and ridges, and hundreds of curves. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

6. Arizona Routes 89/89A (Arizona / 131 miles)

From the Colorado Plateau to the red rocks of Sedona, through the historic towns of Jerome and Prescott, and across valleys and over mountains, these sibling state routes offer a greatest‑hits tour of central Arizona. (Photo by Kevin Wing)

7. Pacific Coast Highway (California / 656 miles)

Rides up and down CA 1 have been a regular part of Rider’s history since our first issue. This legendary road follows California’s rugged coastline and offers world‑class scenery and epic riding. (Photo by Kevin Wing)

8. Serpent to the Sea (California / 140 miles)

From U.S. 101 near Fortuna, riding east on this stretch of CA 36 passes through Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park before turning into a fantastic roller coaster that seems like it will never end. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

9. Avenue of the Giants (California / 31 miles)

Paralleling U.S. 101, this meandering route (CA 254) passes through groves of old‑growth coast redwoods that tower hundreds of feet above the road and follows the wild and scenic Eel River. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

Related: Riding Among Giants

10. Million Dollar Highway (Colorado / 25 miles)

Mile for mile, this section of U.S. 550 between Ouray and Silverton, Colorado, is one of the most scenic anywhere. It passes through the rugged San Juan Mountains and summits several high passes. (Photo by Sara Liberte)

11. Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway (Colorado / 28 miles)

Gaining more than 7,000 feet in 28 miles and achieving a final elevation of 14,130 feet, this is the highest paved road in North America, edging out Pikes Peak Highway by 15 feet. (Photo by Dan Schrock)

12. Georgia Triangle (Georgia / 35 miles)

This north Georgia loop connects GA 60, GA 180, and U.S. 129 and circumnavigates Blood Mountain. A highlight is the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle resort. (Photo by Phil Buonpastore)

Related: Riding the Georgia Triangle

13. Salmon River Scenic Byway (Idaho / 160 miles)

Idaho is full of scenic byways. This one follows the Salmon River through the Sawtooth Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide at 7,014‑foot Lost Trail Pass. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)

14. Route 66 (Illinois, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California / 2,448 miles)

Dubbed the “Mother Road” by John Steinbeck in The Grapes of Wrath, U.S. Route 66 was once the shortest, fastest, and most scenic route from Chicago to Los Angeles. (Photo by Mark Tuttle)

Related: Get Your Kickstart on Route 66

15. Kentucky Coal Route (Kentucky / 218 miles)

This coal country loop follows Daniel Boone’s Wilderness Road, summits 4,145‑foot Black Mountain, and includes U.S. 421, made famous by the 1958 Robert Mitchum movie Thunder Road. (Photo by Lance Oliver)

16. Red River Gorge Scenic Byway (Kentucky / 46 miles)

Following the wild and scenic Red River, this byway passes through a National Geologic Area that features stone arches, caves, cliffs, ravines, waterfalls, and the Nada Tunnel. (Photo via Adobe Stock/erhlif)

17. Park Loop Road (Maine / 27 miles)

This scenic road around Acadia National Park on Maine’s Mount Desert Island features woodlands, rocky beaches, and glacier‑scoured granite peaks such as Cadillac Mountain. (Photo by Scott A. Williams)

18. Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway (Maine / 52 miles)

Considered one of the most scenic routes in New England, this byway in the Appalachian Mountains of western Maine winds through woodlands and around lakes and ponds. (Photo by Alan Paulsen)

19. Copper Country Trail (Michigan / 47 miles)

This byway follows the Keweenaw Peninsula, which extends like a dorsal fin from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula into Lake Superior. Near Copper Harbor, Brockway Mountain Drive provides sweeping views. (Photo by Chuck Cochran)

20. Tunnel of Trees Scenic Heritage Route (Michigan / 20 miles)

This section of M‑119, which runs along the edge of Lake Michigan between Harbor Springs and Cross Village, is a narrow, curvy path through a tunnel of foliage. (Photo by Jamie Elvidge)

21. Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway (Minnesota / 88 miles)

This scenic byway (MN 16) in southern Minnesota begins at the Mississippi River and continues west through the Root River Valley, curving through rolling hills, dolomite bluffs, and historic towns. (Photo by Chuck Cochran)

22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles)

50 Best Motorcycle Roads in America 22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles) — 22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles)

This legendary road touches 10 states as it follows the mighty Mississippi River from its headwaters in Minnesota to its sprawling delta in Louisiana. (Photo via Adobe Stock/Ferrer Photography)

23. Natchez Trace Parkway (Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee / 444 miles)

This national parkway from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Tennessee, follows the “Old Natchez Trace” used by Native Americans, European settlers, traders, and soldiers. (Photo by Tim Kessel)

24. Going‑to‑the‑Sun Road (Montana / 50 miles)

Traversing Glacier National Park, this road cuts through the rugged Rocky Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide at 6,646‑foot Logan Pass. (Photo by Sherry Jones)

25. North Carolina Route 28 (North Carolina / 81 miles)

Starting at Deals Gap and ending at the Georgia state line, this wonderfully curvy road is known as Moonshiner 28 and includes part of the Mountain Waters Scenic Byway. (Photo by Trevor Denis)

26. Blue Ridge Parkway (North Carolina, Virginia / 469 miles)

This national parkway through the Appalachian highlands is the quintessential scenic ride and is known for its perfectly shaped curves, well‑maintained pavement, and countless scenic overlooks. (Photo by Steven Goode)

27. Kancamagus Highway (New Hampshire / 35 miles)

NH 112 is a spectacular road that twists its way through New Hampshire’s White Mountains. In the fall, it’s one of New England’s best leaf‑peeper routes. (Photo by Dan Bisbee)

28. Mount Washington Auto Road (New Hampshire / 8 miles)

This short toll road to the top of 6,288‑foot Mount Washington is often fraught with bad weather. A recorded wind speed of 231 mph on the summit was a world record until 1996. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)

29. Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway (New Mexico / 84 miles)

Circling 13,167‑foot Wheeler Peak, this scenic loop includes valleys, mesas, mountains, national forests, and some of New Mexico’s most culturally rich towns and villages. (Photo by Tim DeGiusti)

30. Great Continental Divide Route (New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana / 2,767 miles)

This mostly off‑road route crosses five states on its way from the U.S.-Mexico border to Banff, Canada. It’s a serious undertaking by any measure. (Photo by Don Mills)

Related: Riding Across the Great Divide

31. U.S. Route 50 in Nevada (Nevada / 409 miles)

Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by Life magazine, the Nevada portion of the transcontinental Lincoln Highway traverses basin‑and‑range topography and follows the Pony Express route. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

32. Upper Delaware Scenic Byway (New York / 70 miles)

This section of NY 97 hugs the eastern shore of the Delaware River and passes through protected park land. A highlight is the winding Hawk’s Nest portion carved into the cliffside. (Photo by Kevin Wing)

33. Triple Nickel (Ohio / 62 miles)

OH 555 often ranks high on lists of great motorcycle roads, and the 21 miles between Chesterhill and Ringgold are particularly fun and challenging. Part of Ohio’s Windy 9, it’s in a target‑rich environment. (Photo by Ken Frick)

Related: Riding Ohio’s Triple Nickel

34. Mount Hood Scenic Byway (Oregon / 105 miles)

Starting at the Columbia River, this route winds around its namesake peak, an 11,249‑foot active volcano, and goes through gorges, rainforests, and pastoral valleys. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

35. West Cascades Scenic Byway (Oregon / 220 miles)

Following the contours of the Cascades range, this route treats riders to old‑growth forests, snowcapped volcanic peaks, and the wild and scenic Clackamas River. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

36. PA Route 6 (Pennsylvania / 427 miles)

U.S. 6 across northern Pennsylvania, known locally as PA Route 6, takes riders through lush forests and charming small towns. Highlights include the PA Wilds region, the Kinzua Sky Walk, and the Susquehanna River. (Photo by Kenneth W. Dahse)

37. Iron Mountain Road (South Dakota / 17 miles)

This stretch of U.S. 16A, which connects Custer State Park with Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills of South Dakota, includes 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, and three wooden “pigtail” bridges. (Photo by Kevin Wing)

38. Tail of the Dragon (Tennessee, North Carolina / 11 miles)

This (in)famous section of U.S. 129, which borders Great Smoky Mountains National Park, claims 318 curves in just 11 miles. It’s a wild ride, but its popularity results in weekend crowds. (Photo by Ken Frick)

39. Cherohala Skyway (Tennessee, North Carolina / 43 miles)

Completed in 1996 at a cost of $100M, this road through the Cherokee and Nantahala national forests (hence the name) has perfectly radiused corners, smooth pavement, and stunning views. (Photo via Adobe Stock/Mark Nortona)

40. Texas FM 170 (Texas / 50 miles)

Farm to Market 170 from Lajitas to Presidio is a scenic roller coaster along the Rio Grande, which serves as the U.S.-Mexico border and the southern boundary of Big Bend Ranch State Park. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

41. Twisted Sisters (Texas / 132 miles)

Connecting Ranch Roads 335, 336, and 337 is a scenic, sometimes challenging ride through Texas Hill Country. Popular with bikers, the route includes several motorcycle‑friendly bars and shops. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

42. Utah Scenic Byway 12 (Utah / 123 miles)

UT 12, aka A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway, connects state parks, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks, Grand Staircase‑Escalante National Monument, and Dixie National Forest. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)

43. Skyline Drive (Virginia / 105 miles)

This national parkway, which begins near the northern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, runs along mountain ridges for the entire length of Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park. (Photo by Scott A. Williams)

Related: Muriel’s First Ride

44. Back of the Dragon (Virginia / 32 miles)

VA 16 from Marion to Tazewell runs north‑south over three mountains that give the road a rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. (Photo courtesy Back of the Dragon)

45. Vermont Route 100 (Virginia / 217 miles)

Stretching from Massachusetts to the Canadian border, VT 100 parallels the Green Mountains and passes through woodlands, pristine farmland, and charming villages. (Photo by Dan Bisbee)

46. North Cascades Scenic Highway (Washington / 140 miles)

Part of the larger Cascades Loop, WA 20 includes old‑growth forests, cascading waterfalls, alpine lakes, glaciers, and rugged mountain scenery. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)

47. Door County Coastal Byway (Wisconsin / 66 miles)

This scenic loop on the Door Peninsula includes views of Lake Michigan, Green Bay, the Niagara Escarpment bluffs, and quaint shore‑side towns and villages. (Photo by Barry Mellen)

Related: Destination Door County

48. Coal Heritage Trail (West Virginia / 97 miles)

This National Scenic Byway through West Virginia’s coal country includes twisty roads up and over ridges, easy valley riding, small towns, and the New River Gorge Bridge. (Photo by Steve Shaluta)

49. U.S. Route 33 in West Virginia (West Virginia / 248 miles)

One of the highest‑rated motorcycle roads in the Mountain State, U.S. 33 passes through George Washington and Monongahela national forests and the Shenandoah Valley. (Photo by Nathan Cuvelier)

50. Beartooth Highway (Wyoming, Montana / 69 miles)

U.S. 212 between Red Lodge, Montana, and Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming summits 10,947‑foot Bearfoot Pass. Journalist Charles Kuralt called it the most scenic highway in America. (Photo by James Petersen)

The post 50 Best Motorcycle Roads in America appeared first on Rider Magazine.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Lee County, Kentucky Motorcycle Ride Resources

Red River Rivalry of Pie Resources

Route 66 Resources

Getting There | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

Elusive Eclipse | Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride

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Texas Hill Country Motorcycle Ride Resources

Tennessee Motorcycle Loop Resources

Day 1: To the Gap

Day 2: Carving a Trail

Day 3: Outposts and Outlaws

A Journey Home

9 Lakes of East Tennessee Motorcycle Ride Resources

SIDEBAR: Farmhouse Suite

Tazewell, Virginia Motorcycle Ride Resources

SIDEBAR: Harley-Davidson Road/Street Glides

Big Bend, Texas Motorcycle Ride Resources

1. Dalton Highway (Alaska / 414 miles)

2. Jasper Disaster Loop (Arkansas / 56 miles)

3. Pig Trail Scenic Byway (Arkansas / 20 miles)

4. Talimena National Scenic Byway (Arkansas, Oklahoma / 54 miles)

5. Coronado Trail (Arizona / 123 miles)

6. Arizona Routes 89/89A (Arizona / 131 miles)

7. Pacific Coast Highway (California / 656 miles)

8. Serpent to the Sea (California / 140 miles)

9. Avenue of the Giants (California / 31 miles)

10. Million Dollar Highway (Colorado / 25 miles)

11. Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway (Colorado / 28 miles)

12. Georgia Triangle (Georgia / 35 miles)

13. Salmon River Scenic Byway (Idaho / 160 miles)

14. Route 66 (Illinois, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California / 2,448 miles)

15. Kentucky Coal Route (Kentucky / 218 miles)

16. Red River Gorge Scenic Byway (Kentucky / 46 miles)

17. Park Loop Road (Maine / 27 miles)

18. Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway (Maine / 52 miles)

19. Copper Country Trail (Michigan / 47 miles)

20. Tunnel of Trees Scenic Heritage Route (Michigan / 20 miles)

21. Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway (Minnesota / 88 miles)

22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles)

23. Natchez Trace Parkway (Mississippi, Alabama, Tennessee / 444 miles)

24. Going‑to‑the‑Sun Road (Montana / 50 miles)

25. North Carolina Route 28 (North Carolina / 81 miles)

26. Blue Ridge Parkway (North Carolina, Virginia / 469 miles)

27. Kancamagus Highway (New Hampshire / 35 miles)

28. Mount Washington Auto Road (New Hampshire / 8 miles)

29. Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway (New Mexico / 84 miles)

30. Great Continental Divide Route (New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana / 2,767 miles)

31. U.S. Route 50 in Nevada (Nevada / 409 miles)

32. Upper Delaware Scenic Byway (New York / 70 miles)

33. Triple Nickel (Ohio / 62 miles)

34. Mount Hood Scenic Byway (Oregon / 105 miles)

35. West Cascades Scenic Byway (Oregon / 220 miles)

36. PA Route 6 (Pennsylvania / 427 miles)

37. Iron Mountain Road (South Dakota / 17 miles)

38. Tail of the Dragon (Tennessee, North Carolina / 11 miles)

39. Cherohala Skyway (Tennessee, North Carolina / 43 miles)

40. Texas FM 170 (Texas / 50 miles)

41. Twisted Sisters (Texas / 132 miles)

42. Utah Scenic Byway 12 (Utah / 123 miles)

43. Skyline Drive (Virginia / 105 miles)

44. Back of the Dragon (Virginia / 32 miles)

45. Vermont Route 100 (Virginia / 217 miles)

46. North Cascades Scenic Highway (Washington / 140 miles)

47. Door County Coastal Byway (Wisconsin / 66 miles)

48. Coal Heritage Trail (West Virginia / 97 miles)

49. U.S. Route 33 in West Virginia (West Virginia / 248 miles)

50. Beartooth Highway (Wyoming, Montana / 69 miles)

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