Tag Archives: Features

Moto Morini 350 & 500 air-cooled V-twins

A history of Moto Morini and their 350 & 500 V-twins

With Phil Aynsley

Here are fine examples of two of the most popular Morini air-cooled V-twins. But first a bit of history… a very Italian sort of history! Alfonso Morini opened a motorcycle workshop in 1914 at the ripe old age of 16.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

In 1925 he was then commissioned by Mario Mazzetti’s MM company, to design, build and race a 125cc two-stroke. Many victories ensued, including the 1927, ’28 and ’29 Grand Prix of Nations.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

After leaving MM in 1937, Morini produced 350 and 500cc 3-wheeled delivery vehicles, then switched to aeronautical component manufacture until the factory was bombed in 1943. The post war period was Morini’s heyday with many well received road bikes and GP winning 125 and 250cc singles.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin powerplant

When Alfonso died in 1969 his daughter Gabriella took over running the company and one of her first moves was to employ ex-Ferrari engineer Franco Lambertini to design a new range of bikes.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

The first of these was the 350 Strada V-twin (with a Sport model soon to follow). Intended to be the basis of a whole family of bikes, the 350 featured many innovative technologies (for motorcycles).

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

The cylinder angle was 72º and Heron heads were employed (flat machined heads with the combustion chambers recessed into the piston crowns).

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

In another first for 2-wheelers a toothed rubber belt was used to drive the camshafts (unusually for the period it was a pushrod design – used to make the motor more compact).

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

The 350 was known for its fine handling and excellent fuel economy. Performance was good without being outstanding. The Strada made 35hp at 8,000rpm and the Sport 39hp at 8,500rpm. Top speeds were 162kph and 175kph respectively.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

The 350s were followed by 500cc V-twins and, with rather less success, 125 and 250 singles which used the basic V-twin layout without the rear cylinder.

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Morini’s 350 air-cooled V-Twin

The 500 was also made in Strada and Sport models (also the Camel enduro and Excalibur cruiser). Both the bore and stroke were enlarged, and together with 26mm carbs, output was raised to 46hp at 7,500rpm and top speed to 179kph.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

One intriguing detail was the “la strega” (witch) decal found on the 500 Sport’s tailpiece. It had generally been thought to have been the creation of Alfonso Morini and affectionately depicting either his daughter or grand daughter.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

However wanting to get to the bottom of its origin I made some inquiries and the reply from Franco Lambertini was that Morini’s stylist Mr Tolomelli was responsible and that the muffler-riding witch did not depict anyone in particular. Minor mystery solved!

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

The 1979 Sport seen here has a few non-standard parts – the handgrips, mirrors, Koni rear shocks, braided brake lines and replica exhaust system.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

The company ran into difficulties in the early 1980s and in 1987 was sold to Cagiva. A few new variants of the 350 & 500 were produced but no real developments made it to production (Lambertini’s new 60º design was not proceeded with and he left in 1989).

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

A 500 Turbo was shown in 1981 and a 67º 750cc motor was built and fitted into an Enduro-style chassis in 1986.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

Cagiva sold the Morini name to TPG, along with Ducati, in 1996. In turn TPG sold the name to Alfonso’s nephew Franco Morini in 1999. With Lambertini back with the new company his 1200cc 87º V-twin Corsaro appeared in 2004.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

Other models followed but in 2009 the company went into liquidation. Bikes were assembled from parts for a time and sold directly to customers before the name (but not the factory, which was leased) was sold to Eagle Bikes (a company owned by two Italian entrepreneurs) in 2011. Production resumed in 2012, and with a number of fits and starts, has continued ever since.

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin ‘Excalibur’

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

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Morini’s 500 air-cooled V-Twin

Source: MCNews.com.au

Stayin’ Safe: A Pain in the Grass

grass clippings on the road
Grass on the roadway can be a non-issue or an extremely slippery condition. If possible, slow down using clear pavement ahead of the covered area.

I’ve got a grass-fed beef. And, based on recent conversations, so do a lot of riders. Homeowners mowing their lawns and throwing abundant grass clippings onto the roadway can create a special kind of threat to motorcyclists.

Dry grass will typically blow away as vehicles pass through or breezes sweep it off the roadway. But if grass is wet, it clings to the surface and can be like grease under motorcycle tires.

If possible, when confronted with grass-covered pavement, do all slowing on clear pavement leading up to the grassy area. Keep eyes up, looking well ahead to increase stability. To maximize traction, minimize steering, braking and throttle inputs and coast through the grass patches. If the equivalent of one of these Chia Pet patches of pavement appears in a corner, the rider should minimize lean angles and look to the exit, not down at the grass or toward the edge of the road.

Remember that grass will stay wet longer than pavement. So, after a rain shower or in the morning when dew blankets the landscape with moisture, the road surface may be dry, but grass clippings may still be wet and slippery.

grass clippings on the road
When riding through grass, minimizing steering, braking and throttle inputs will help to maximize available traction.

The best way to avoid problems? Ride only as fast as you can see and anticipate the possibility before you encounter it. If you see homes with lawns–especially on the weekends when homeowners are most active doing yardwork–there’s a good chance someone will be mowing. Larger lawns, like those found in rural areas where we like to ride, are often maintained with lawn tractors that process large amounts of grass and throw it greater distances.

While discharging grass onto roadways is illegal in many areas, it remains a threat to riders. Anticipating the condition and riding smoothly and calmly through it will reduce the likelihood that grass on the road will clip you.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Re-Cycling: 2002-2012 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000

Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000
The V-Strom 1000 in the May 2004 issue of Rider.

While their rugged, round-the-world styling and expedition-ready features suggest otherwise, some adventure bikes work better on the road–much better–than they do off pavement. As word of this open secret spreads, they’re being bought more and more by riders who appreciate their overall utility, upright seating and solid aftermarket support.

Suzuki’s original DL1000 V-Strom is one of the standard bearers of the street-leaning ADV bike, striking a balance between RTW looks and performance and streetwise utility that makes it a champ in the bang-for-the-buck sweepstakes today.

Check out our comparison test: V-Strom 650 vs. V-Strom 1000.

Maybe seeing in advance where the market segment was going, Suzuki gave the DL1000 the 996cc L-twin from the TL1000S sportbike, modified for the midrange and low end it needed for low-speed riding and for hauling luggage. The 90-degree cylinder spread technically gives the engine perfect balance, but the rods are slightly offset side-to-side so a little vibration creeps in.

Even more is apparent in some 2002 and early ’03 models, which produced a low-rpm vibration far outside the norm. Called “chudder”–a combination of chatter and shudder–on online forums, it’s curable with an improved clutch basket. Even then, though, the big Strom dislikes being lugged.

Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000
A decent skid plate is a necessity if you plan on taking your Strom off-road. Shown here in the August 2007 issue of Rider.

One big compromise resulting from hanging the TL’s engine from the DL1000’s stout aluminum frame is a worrisome lack of ground clearance. The oil filter, oil cooler and the front cylinder’s header pipe all sit dangerously low and forward enough that a sturdy bash plate isn’t just a fashion accessory, but a necessity for off-roading. On pavement and smooth fire roads the suspension works adequately, but serious trails should be avoided.

It’s much more suited to the street, where small upgrades–a replacement shock and a fork kit–bring big rewards in handling. The brakes are just average, requiring stainless lines and high-performance pads to bring out their best. The 33-inch seat height is a problem for some, making lowering links a hot seller in the aftermarket.

Another aftermarket staple for DL1000 owners is an improved windscreen, because just about anything is an improvement over the stock one, which though stylish is ineffective at reducing buffeting at the helmet level. The fairing, too, deflects some wind but not as much as its appearance suggests.

Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000It’s also an enormous parts bill waiting to happen in case of a fall–every fairing panel’s part number should end with “-$$$.” Fueling issues on some bikes can be cured with a tuning module, while other bikes run cleanly stock. Rough running has also been traced to dirty fuel filters, which many riders simply bypass.

Problems to watch for on used DL1000s include flaking engine paint, rusty or warped brake rotors and corroded hardware. Check the fins on the radiator and especially the oil cooler for damage, and make sure the brake pads don’t stick in the calipers and drag on the rotors.

If there are scratches on the plastic bodywork indicting a fall in the past, check for broken mounting tabs or missing grommets. An often-neglected check is to crawl under the bike and inspect the bottom rear shock linkage for play; the bearings inside are vulnerable to repeated spray from rain and can dry out, causing slop in the suspension.

Prices range from about $3,600 for a first-year DL to around $8,000 for a 2012; factor in accessories and condition accordingly.

Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000
2007 Suzuki V-Strom 1000, as seen in the August 2007 issue of Rider.

2002-2012 Suzuki DL1000 V-Strom 1000

PROS
Big torquey engine, do-it-all versatility, above average reliability.

CONS
Nosebleed seat height, rust and corrosion prone, vulnerable and expensive plastic parts. 

Displacement: 996cc
Final drive: Chain
Wet Weight: 517 lbs.
Fuel Capacity: 5.8 gals.
Seat Height: 33 in.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Laverda 1000C | Laverda’s 1000cc Triple

Laverda Triple Cylinder Prototype

With Phil Aynsley


The Laverda 1000 triple was first seen at the Geneva Show in 1969. At this early stage the motor was basically a 750 twin with an extra cylinder grafted on. It was still a single OHC design with the starter behind the cylinders and the belt-driven generator in front.

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

However by 1971 Massimo Laverda and Luciano Zen had massively reworked the design. It now sported a DOHC cylinder head with narrow angled valves, together with very substantial crankcases.

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

The original 120º crank was replaced by a 180º unit (the outside pistons moving together, with the centre piston 180º out of phase).

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

The new design was first displayed at the 1971 Milan Show, named the 1000C, and the bike I photographed is in fact this prototype, with engine number 1000 001.

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

By comparison to the production bikes that followed in 1972, it is quite unique with sand-cast cases of a different pattern, 750 instruments and handlebar, ignition key placement and even sand-cast Dell’Orto carbs.

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

The 180º motor was replaced by a rubber-mounted 120º in 1982 and after evolving through a total of 16 different models production of the triple ceased in 1986.

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

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Laverda’s 3C Prototype

Source: MCNews.com.au

Riding Virginia’s Crooked Road and Blue Ridge

Virginia crooked road blue ridge
On the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 101, the Ducati makes me look better than in real life. In the background is the Quarry Overlook. This dolomite quarry was started in 1916–twenty years before the Parkway. Photos by the author.

Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains in autumn are a place of unique beauty not to be missed, especially from the open cockpit of a motorcycle. From my home in the northern tip of the state, the Virginia border runs diagonally southwest for more than 300 miles, parallel to the ridges and valleys of the mountains.

In the southwest corner are my two ride objectives: the Back of the Dragon, a 32-mile run of elbowing blacktop crossing three mountain ridges, and The Crooked Road, a collection of live music and historical venues along scenic motorcycle roads showcasing the regional specialty: bluegrass music. I also plan to make use of the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, but only when my ambitious schedule will let me travel at the Parkway’s reduced speed limit of 45 mph.

Virginia crooked road blue ridge
Cars first rambled through this stone tunnel on the Blue Ridge Parkway south of Montebello in the 1930s. I’m sure it didn’t take long for the first motorcycle to follow!

It takes a day to get to my start point of Wytheville, but not without a midday detour along the Blue Ridge Parkway from near Montebello to Buchanan. I share the view at numerous overlooks with other riders, then enjoy lunch on the shore of Abbott Lake beneath the Peaks of Otter. There’s no wondering why the Parkway consistently rates among the top five motorcycle roads in the United States. A rider’s dream, the curvy ridge-top road runs through stone-arched tunnels and next to lakes, campgrounds and lodges–all completely devoid of traffic lights, stop signs and large trucks. Free for public use, the Parkway is open all year except in icy conditions.

Next morning I wake up in Wytheville to a steady rain lingering longer than forecast and wind gusts flexing the glass of the hotel window. I decide to motor circuitously and enter the Back of the Dragon at the north point to allow time for the rain to move out. I take U.S. Route 52 and enjoy a satisfying and twisty climb to Big Walker Lookout, elevation 3,405 feet. Here I find the Big Walker General Store and take a short break to enjoy the terrific views under overcast skies.

Virginia crooked road blue ridge
A group of riders with camping gear rolls along the Blue Ridge Parkway north of the Peaks of Otter, no doubt heading to one of the Parkway’s many campgrounds.

From there U.S. 52 curves downhill, then runs over rolling terrain alongside Interstate 77 for 20 or so miles—then suddenly joins the interstate and punches through a mile of mountain rock at the East River Mountain Tunnel. I then head west on U.S. Route 460 to Tazewell and turn onto State Route 16–the Back’s north entry point. Thankfully, the rain has stopped and the road is mostly dry.

There are neat, steady curves across the first ridge before dropping more than a thousand feet for a two-mile cruise through a gorgeous, Shire-like valley. The road then winds up the face of the second ridge and slices behind towers of leafy kudzu. Then come mile upon mile of pleasing twists along the second ridge before switchbacking downhill into the second valley, a nice break before the final 1,500-foot climb.

My growling and nimble Ducati Multistrada eats up the twisty climb and we loop through bursting autumn colors that surround rocky crests. The road surface is mostly excellent, though I did encounter a little gravel in spots.

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U.S. Route 52 north of Wytheville takes one last dip to the left before twisting its way to Big Walker Lookout. The excellent road surface seen here is what I encountered on every mountain road on my trip.

State Route 16 continues south through Marion and later connects with U.S. Route 58–I’m now officially on The Crooked Road. Designated by the state of Virginia in 2004, The Crooked Road uses U.S. 58 as a central conduit but includes connected roads leading to festivals, museums and live music sessions, all associated with the heritage of bluegrass and country music.

I’m committed to being at the Floyd Country Store for the Friday Nite Jamboree, so I shortcut there on U.S. Route 221. Time permitting, I recommend an alternate route using the Parkway to Floyd and stopping by the Blue Ridge Music Center near Galax for the live music each afternoon.

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To get a seat at the Floyd Country Store’s Friday Nite Jamboree you have to get by Barb and Beverly at the ticket counter–I think the five spot is a bargain just for their smiles and friendly company.

The Floyd Country Store is a crown jewel of The Crooked Road. A modest cover charge of $5 gets me in the door. After an initial set of bluegrass gospel, folks are clearing away folding chairs and dancing to the fast-paced syncopation of Katie & The Bubbatones. Many “flatlanders” like myself are simply tapping our feet, but it’s clear that this lively music is still an important way for local folks to unwind after a busy week. On my way out I bag a pastry at the store’s bakery to have with next morning’s coffee.

The sun rises to a chilly but crystal clear morning as I depart Floyd’s cozy Pine Tavern Lodge, a clean and updated hideaway that has continuously served travelers since 1927. A peaceful winding ride on State Routes 8 and 40 takes me through elevated meadows and rolling farms, across small wooded creeks and finally to the Blue Ridge Folklife Festival in Ferrum. You’ll find such festivals along The Crooked Road almost any weekend from June through October.

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At the Blue Ridge Folklife Festival, metal meets metal and sparks shoot forth when Billy Phelps brings the hammer down. Billy is a Master Blacksmith who has given live demonstrations at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C.
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These experts fix the cap arm on a moonshine still. They taught me a lot–alcohol boils off at 172 degrees (a lower temperature than water) so the cap arm catches the alcohol steam for condensation into moonshine.
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An Amish group set up a donut operation that was nonstop busy. I ate the best donut that I have ever eaten–or will ever eat.

I decide I need a final cruise on the Parkway so I get there by U.S. 220. Once on the Parkway, two groups of motorcyclists are going my direction, and we leapfrog along the Parkway as we take turns stopping at different overlooks. I exit the Parkway for good on State Route 43 for the small town of Bedford, a place that possesses the tragic distinction of losing more residents per capita in the D-Day landings than any other American community. Bedford’s D-Day Memorial is a good, quiet place to reflect on how fortunate I am to be able to traverse through Virginia’s natural, cultural and historical sites before continuing on home–back to the flatlands.

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Map of the route taken, by Bill Tipton/compartmaps.com.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Taking a Leap of Faith on the Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Riding high above the Gorges de la Nesque in Provence on one of its many “balcony” roads carved into the rock canyon walls. Photos by the author and Genie Tuttle.

Would you travel halfway around the world for an 11-day motorcycle touring vacation that promises fantastic roads and scenery, delicious food and drink, interesting foreign culture, fun and camaraderie every day? Of course you would.

What if each day’s route was a secret, and you had no idea where the tour is going other than the arrival airport, not even the hotel names? Signing up seem a little nuts?

Well, it probably is, but that hasn’t stopped Edelweiss Bike Travel’s Mystery Tour from selling out both times it has run, partly because of the company’s solid reputation for delivering everything in the first sentence above and partly because of repeat customers, from both the original Mystery Tour (now called the Life is Beautiful—Alpine Wonderland tour) and other Edelweiss motorcycle tours.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
The tiny village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, with its narrow streets and vaulted passageways, is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France.

When my wife Genie and I committed to the “MT” starting and ending in Nice, France, in June 2018, it felt like agreeing to do a trust fall with a stranger—you know he or she is probably going to catch you, but there’s always that tiny bit of doubt. We knew we’d be in good hands though, if not on good roads, since the MT is the one EBT tour led by Managing Director Rainer Buck and his wife Gaby, who may not know exactly where we’re going but have lots of company credit cards.

Rainer was assisted by guides Michael Goebel and Pablo Piferrer, who between them have nearly 20 years of experience guiding EBT tours around the world and made the 17 of us riders and co-pilots from the USA, Austria, Mexico and Switzerland feel like family.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Limestone cliffs form the walls of the Ardèche Gorges; their most famous feature is this 197-foot stone arch called the Pont d’Arc.

Canyons, Napoleon and Beautiful Villages

Once rescued from the row upon row of private jets and wall-to-wall resort high-rises surrounding Nice airport on the French Riviera, that afternoon we sipped prosecco in celebration of a rider’s birthday while “rookie” guide Rainer, or RR, gave the first tour briefing on the veranda of a lovely hotel in Vence, in the foothills of the Maritime Alps above Nice.

The Mystery Tour is different from other EBT tours in that—since only RR and the guides know each day’s route—the group stays together the entire time, with no riding off on your own. It’s also one of EBT’s Royal Tours, so all of the meals are included, even lunch on all but the rest day. Each of us also received a crossword puzzle, the six clues for which were printed on RR’s fresh T-shirt each day. Complete the puzzle correctly and you might go with RR on a special bonus ride on the penultimate day—more on this later.

With no clue from RR where we were headed except his daily dubious cry of “North!” we left Vence in the morning and instead headed west, over the 3,159-foot Col de Vence (Vence Pass) in the Maritime Alps. The endlessly winding road rising up through a green forest and imposing dolomite-type rocky mountains set the stage for the rest of the tour (rated a 4 out of 5 for difficulty among EBT tours), since we spent very little time on the center of our tires, or even in fifth or sixth gears.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
The Sénanque Abbey was founded in 1148, and monks have always lived there since except for a few decades, growing lavender and tending honeybees.

Quite happy I had chosen an agile BMW R 1200 RT for Genie and me, as we explored an 11th-century church at the first of many coffee stops, I was also thankful for the mesh riding apparel we had brought for the warm temps in Southern France.

Picking up the Route Napoléon, which the emperor took on his return from exile in Elba in 1815, we zoomed around its smooth cambered corners through the diverse landscapes of Provence at a fun, brisk pace set by RR and most of the group riding BMW RTs, R 1200 and 800 GS models and Ducati Mutltistradas, with a guide in back sweeping up the slower riders.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Wildflowers were everywhere on the June tour.

Detouring onto snaky roads far above gorgeous valleys and down alongside turquoise-green rivers, lunch was at a 9th-century chateau perched high above the verdant scrubland. Our first of many deep gorges and the tunnels and arches along amazing “balcony roads” carved into the canyon walls high above were on the dessert menu as we rode along the spectacular Gorge du Verdon in the afternoon—at 15.5 miles long and up to 3,000 feet deep it’s aptly nicknamed the Grand Canyon of Europe.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Clinging to the cliffside in the Ardèche Gorges.

This part of France is also famous for its endless “blue gold” lavender fields, and the afternoon coffee-stop village of Moustiers, voted the prettiest in France—which is really saying something!

Briefly rejoining the Route Napoléon, it took us into Château-Arnoux-Saint-Auban for the evening, the end of a 162-mile riding day that was about par for each riding day of the tour. The chase van driven by one of the guides and carrying our luggage and a spare bike was rarely more than an hour away from the group, yet somehow always managed to beat us to each night’s hotel.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Many of Europe’s highest passes are in the French Alps.

Hotels on the 2018 MT ranged from, as RR put it tongue firmly in cheek, “zero to five stars,” which really meant that the one lovely auberge or inn on a bucolic farm in the Côtes du Rhône (the famous wine region in the Rhône Valley), my favorite, simply didn’t have a Michelin rating. The rest of the accommodations were equally or more wonderful, whether it was a castle, modern hotel with a river view, in a historic city or the base hotel in Vence.

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Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Sustenance on the Mystery Tour was delicious, varied and frequent, and the vin superb.

We dined like kings as well, sometimes on French specialties like pâté and veal but more often on meat entrees with truffle-infused sauces and farm-to-table vegetables and salads, sumptuous fresh baked bread and a wide variety of cheeses. RR is passionate about wine, too, so he made sure that a nice selection of local vin rouge and vin blanc was available each evening and treated us to a special tasting one night as well.

Southern France is also home to the Carthusian monks who create the intoxicating neon green liqueur Chartreuse, which some of us enjoyed one night with Cuban cigars to the smooth sounds of Michael’s folk guitar and vocals. One really can’t say enough about guides Pablo and Michael—their efforts and camaraderie helped make the tour magnifique.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
The River Tarn formed 33 miles of spectacular Gorges du Tarn flanked by limestone cliffs as much as 1,640 feet high.

Gorgeous Gorges, Endless Passes

The food, hotels and culture stops, such as the Caverne du Pont-d’Arc in the Ardèche Valley with its 36,000-year-old cave paintings, sprawling 12-acre Bamboo Park in the Rhône Valley and historic villages and towns with their lovely old French architecture and genuinely friendly people all made for a deliciously rich experience during our regular stops, lunches and evenings. It’s truly amazing I didn’t gain more weight, or run out of camera memory cards. But the raison d’être of the Mystery Tour is the roads and riding, made all the more fun by not knowing exactly what was in store each day.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
No wider than a walking path through its arches and tunnels in places, the magnificent Combe Laval is virtually suspended from the side of the canyon.

Southeastern France is laced with deep gorges carved over the centuries by impressive rivers like the Verdon, Nesque and Tarn, and the ride connected the many gorges with the beautiful valleys, mountains, plateaus and national parks of Provence, the Languedoc region and French Alps. We crossed one of the most extraordinary areas in France, the Cévennes, on the Corniche de Cévennes, a wide sweeping road originally built in the 1700s by the Huguenot army that this day was nearly deserted and like a racetrack through the forest flora.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
The 2018 Mystery Tour group enjoys a “boot” beer (we’re done riding but still in our boots) in a hotel parking lot in the Côtes du Rhône.

Our rest day—yet another riding day for many in the group—was among the spires and massifs of the Gorges du Tarn on the Tarn River, where some of us hiked, swam and kayaked before ascending and circling the Causse Noir and Causse Méjean on the bikes, giant limestone plateaus of rich farmland surrounded by gorges and strung with more exciting balcony roads and tunnels. If there was a problem with the roads and scenery on this tour, it was not being able to look away from either….

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Looking down from 8,688-foot Col du Galibier.

From the Parc des Grands Causses we made a giant U-turn back toward Nice and the Côte d’Azur, but some of the best riding was yet to come—the French Alps. Over the next several days we conquered a dozen passes lined with snow in places, including the 2nd- through 5th-highest in France, and briefly crossed into Italy over the 9,003-foot Col Agnel to have a refreshingly different lunch of pizza and pasta while the three crossword puzzle winners enjoyed a helicopter tour with RR of Mont Blanc, at 15,777 feet the highest in Europe.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Descending from yet another pass in the French Alps.

After returning to France, the finale was a twisting ascent up to La Madone d’Utelle for a tasty picnic lunch skillfully prepared by Pablo at this hilltop sanctuary with a 360-degree view over the French Riviera. How he got the big van up—and down—that crazy road I’ll never know. Just one of the wonderful mysteries of the Mystery Tour.

Edelweiss Mystery Tour 2018
Picnic time at the sanctuary of La Madone d’Utelle, high atop a mountain with a view of the French Riviera.

The 2018 Edelweiss Bike Travel Mystery Tour is now called the Life is Beautiful—Magical France tour and will run next June 6-26, 2019. The arrival airport for the next Mystery Tour is Athens, Greece, May 3, 2020…but shhhh, it’s a secret! For more info visit edelweissbike.com.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Retrospective: 1973-1975 Suzuki GT250 Hustler

1975 Suzuki GT250M Hustler
1975 Suzuki GT250M Hustler. Owner: Chris Wesney, Templeton, California.

Back in the early ’70s Suzuki was looking into the inevitable future and concentrating on getting into the four-stroke market, while still making good money from its two-strokes. And the predecessors of this GT250 Hustler had helped a lot.

Its parallel twin engine, perfectly square at 54 x 54mm bore and stroke, had first seen the light of the showroom floor in 1965 as the X-6 Hustler, a 250 tiger, which astounded the American motorcycling mind with a 90-plus-mph top speed and six-speed transmission. The engine was a simple piston-port design, with new-fangled automatic oiling, and cylinders were aluminum with iron liners.

Move forward eight years, and the rather similar GT250 Hustler appears—but with Suzuki’s Ram Air System (RAS) bolted to the top of the engine. The rubber-mounted hood was first seen on the company’s 1972 triples, the GT380 Sebring and GT550 Indy, which was the beginning of the Grand Touring series. The approach was simple enough, with this rather angular shroud aiding the cooling of the triple’s middle cylinder, sending more air through the cooling fins.

On a parallel twin this was more problematic, but useful in keeping the noise down. Two-strokes from the ’60s were notoriously rackety, especially in warm-up mode, and prone to give out a ringing and pinging sound from the fins. Strips of heat-resistant rubber were used in the 250’s cylinder-head fins to reduce the noise. All very civilized.

1975 Suzuki GT250M HustlerRAS was also a sales gimmick, giving the previous T250 model a new look. The factory was claiming the GT twin developed 31 horses at 7,000 rpm, but “Cycle” magazine used a rear-wheel dyno to measure the 1973 model’s horsepower: 22 at 7,500 rpm. The same magazine got a mere 20 horses when testing the similar 1975 version. As the humorist types back then liked to say, Suzuki was measuring power at the top of the piston.

It is true that Suzuki with this GT version had knowingly cut back on the power. This was because a major effort had been made, wise or not, to give the touring rider a quieter ride. However, it took some bright light to take the 26mm Mikuni carburetors apart and measure the slides; they had been lengthened by 6mm, which meant that full throttle was an impossibility. Two-strokes made a lot of noise from the intakes, so Suzuki used the longer slides on the GT–hence the slightly quieter engine. When found out, Suzuki immediately switched to correctly sized slides.

A battery and coil supplied the sparks, and the battery was a mere five amp/hour. Americans were coming to accept the electric leg, but because of weight and costs, no such starter was on the GT250. The rider’s left leg provided the starting mechanism, not that pushing the left-side kickstarter was much of a problem.

1975 Suzuki GT250M HustlerThe engine was Suzuki solid, with the crankshaft running on three ball bearings, the one-piece connecting rods having needle bearings both top and bottom. Gasoline passed into the crankcase via that pair of Mikunis, while lubrication was done by the improved CCI (Crankcase Cylinder Injection) automatic-oiling arrangement. Just to make sure that the end bearings on the crankshaft were properly taken care of, they were pressure fed using CCI’s multipoint injection system. Compression ratio was an acceptable 7.5:1. The oil tank, part of the right side cover, held 2.8 pints and had a little window to alert the rider when oil was getting low.

Helical gears sent power rearward to a multi-disc wet clutch and then through the tranny, with its own oil supply. Sixth gear was very much an overdrive, which helped reduce noise at touring speeds.

1975 Suzuki GT250M HustlerFrame was a double cradle, with a major change from its T250 predecessor found under the four-gallon gas tank; instead of one large beam, there were now a trio of smaller tubes, strengthening the chassis and allowing for a more positive feel in the corners. The frame extended under the seat, so there was no bolt-on addition. Since this had touring pretensions, wheelbase was extended almost an inch to 52 inches for better high-speed stability.

The telescopic fork was adequate, as were the pair of adjustable shocks on the swingarm. Both wheels were 18-inchers, carrying a 3.00 tire on the front, 3.50 on the back. Front brake was a competent single disc, with a drum at the back that was activated hydraulically. Above the headlight were a speedo and tachometer. Wet weight was a hefty 350 pounds, 50 more than the original X-6.

The GT designation did not really live up to the bike’s touring abilities. As a solo bike, it was OK in the quarter-liter category, but with a passenger on board taking off from a stop was both a bit slow and noisy. If the engine was pulling less than four grand, a stall was quite possible, and quiet departures were not to be had. Plus the seat height of 31 inches meant a relatively tall rider was probable, leaving not much room for a passenger. The saddle was narrowed at the front, for those with challenging inseams, but not very comfortable for the rider when carrying a passenger.

1975 Suzuki GT250M HustlerIn the end the GT250 Hustler, now a pussycat, only lasted three years. The RAS was removed, and the bike became simply the GT250 for the next two years–with bigger fins in the head to aid in cooling. That Ram Air System apparently served mainly to slow things down.

This 1975 model seen in the photos, in Aztec Yellow, spent much of its life in boxes and was only recently put back together–the only thing missing being the left side cover, which comes from a different year.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Stayin’ Safe: Wheel He Or Won’t He?

wheel he or won't he
Will this truck pull out in front of you? Watching for the front wheel to begin rolling is a more reliable predictor than making eye contact with the driver.

For those of us on two wheels, the most likely clash with another vehicle would be at an intersection with an approaching vehicle turning left across our path or a vehicle pulling into our lane from a side road, parking lot or driveway. How can we know if the driver will pull the trigger and shoot point blank into our immediate path of travel? When it comes to the anxious driver poised to pull out from our right or left, is there a way to detect the driver’s intent?  

If there’s a wheel, there’s a way. Determining if a vehicle is beginning to move forward is most practical if we look to the car’s front wheel. Our brain has a much easier time detecting even the subtlest wheel rotation than it does trying to discern if the mass of the vehicle itself is moving slightly from right to left (or vice versa). See the wheel of that vehicle to your right beginning to rotate counterclockwise? Be ready; the vehicle is about to enter your lane!

But what about eye contact? Even if a driver appears to be looking directly at you, he or she may be looking beyond, never even noticing you. And, even if the driver does see you, they could easily misinterpret the distance and speed at which you are approaching, believing that you are farther away than you are.

Always anticipate the move. Even if you are confident that a driver will not pull out, be ready when they do. The way to do that is by managing your speed. Ask yourself if you could smoothly and safely stop your motorcycle to avoid contact if that driver began to pull out. Looking and anticipating while still carrying excessive speed takes away your options and limits the space and time you have to work with should the driver enter the lane ahead of you. He wheel. I mean, he will. 

Source: RiderMagazine.com

Re-Cycling: 2001-2010 Honda Gold Wing

Honda Gold Wing
Rider magazine, February 2001.

Nearly concurrent with the birth of the magazine you’re reading now was the introduction of a motorcycle that would become virtually synonymous with two-wheel touring, Honda’s Gold Wing. The first Wing, the GL1000, grew larger and gained displacement over the years until in 2001 it reached what some riders considered the apex of its evolution, and others saw as an unfortunate step past perfection.

Nobody complained about the engine, a smooth flat six with fuel injection, two valves per cylinder, a hundred horsepower and a torque curve that seemingly had no beginning and no end–it was just always there, whenever you twisted the loud handle. The shaft drive that had been standard since the beginning was now incorporated into a single-sided swingarm for easier rear-wheel service. Also standard was a reverse gear–not just handy but almost mandatory for maneuvering the nearly 900-pound Wing in tight spaces–and linked brakes, with ABS an extra-cost option.

Honda Gold Wing
From Rider, April 2009.

Where the GL1800 significantly departed from the script written by its ancestors was in the handling department. Its grace and stability at speed was almost physics-defying, giving many touring riders their first taste of dragging hard parts in the corners well before the chassis sent any alarms upstairs. The frame itself was made of aluminum spars hefty enough to support bridges, and used the engine as a stressed member. Some 2002-model frames, however, were prone to cracking, and were the subject of a factory recall.

That wasn’t the only cause for criticism of the GL1800. Some of the improvements were fine, such as a larger radiator and fans and a higher-output alternator (from 1100 watts to 1300) in 2006. But two-up riders panned the GL18’s smaller bags and trunk compared to the GL1500’s, and felt the pilot’s seat placed the passenger too far to the rear to reap the benefits of the otherwise effective fairing and windscreen. The optional airbag on 2006-and-later models raised a few eyebrows among those who already thought the big Wing was just a car without doors.

The automotive analogy almost perfectly described the GL1800’s reliability, as well as its character, which some riders say is the very definition of bland. But there’s no denying that when it comes to the used market, the Wing gets the job done as well as or better than anything in the class for the same money.

Honda Gold Wing
The Gold Wing graces the cover of our February 2006 issue.

They’re more likely than most bikes to have been dealer serviced for most of their lives, so ask for receipts, and have a local dealer run the VIN to make sure the bike has been brought in for all recalls and service campaigns. Leaking fork seals aren’t too common, but they are a major pain to replace, so look for oil weeping down the fork legs, and check the condition of the brake and clutch fluid; flushing and replacing the fluid in the linked brake system is another service headache.

Try every setting and button on the stereo, the intercom and the navi system, and make sure the rear shock preload adjuster works. Function-check any add-on lights and accessories, and if you’re feeling brave and the seller isn’t looking, give the ABS a workout, too. Expect to pay anywhere from $7,500 for a first-year GL1800 in fair condition up to $12,000 for a 2011 model, excluding value-adding accessories.

Honda Gold Wing
From Rider, February 2006.

2001-2010 Honda GL1800 Gold Wing

PROS
Long on power, competence and comfort.
Reliability above average, dealers everywhere.

CONS
Short on personality, low-speed maneuverability and ease of service.
Excess weight can become tiresome.

Engine: Liquid-cooled, 1,832cc flat six, fuel injected, 2 valves per cylinder
Final Drive: Shaft
Weight: 898 lbs.
Fuel Capacity: 6.6 gals.
Seat Height: 29 in.

Source: RiderMagazine.com

The Old Way: Historic U.S. 80 and the Wood Plank Road

Plank Road
Travel from Yuma to San Diego via historic U.S. Route 80 and the wood Plank Road, and you’ll see how unforgiving the desert can be. Photos by the author.

Picture a scene in which hearty travelers traverse barren and windswept sand dunes on roads of rough-hewn timbers. I am not talking about some prehistoric time nor am I forecasting a dystopian future. No, my friends, many still-living Americans could tell you of this strange and fascinating tale set in the American Southwest.

I recently happened upon a magazine article that mentioned a wood plank road that spanned the sand dunes linking the southernmost portions of California and Arizona. With my interest piqued, I dug deeper and discovered that the Old Plank Road was operational for more than a decade and was ultimately displaced by a paved portion of U.S. Route 80 in 1926.

Almost four decades later, U.S. 80 succumbed to Interstate 8. Now, the Plank Road is a fascinating, crumbling relic of the early 20th century; however, long portions of Historic U.S. 80 are still passable as an interesting alternative to I-8 from Yuma, Arizona, to San Diego, California.

That was enough for me. I dug deeper into the history of the Plank Road, researched Historic U.S. 80, charted my course and packed the bags on my BMW R 1200 GS. I was off to discover the Plank Road and ride as much of Historic U.S. Route 80 as possible from Yuma to San Diego.

Plank Road
The Ocean-to-Ocean Highway Bridge is the impressive opening act to the Yuma to San Diego trek. The bridge spans the Colorado River, and its 1915 completion date coincides with the Plank Road. Its name indicates its importance in the nationwide, transcontinental Ocean-to-Ocean Highway.

Yuma to El Centro – in Search of the Plank Road

The sun-drenched starting point of my ride was the history-rich city of Yuma, Arizona. Now snowbirds in massive RVs converge on the city in winter like their winged migratory counterparts. However, Yuma was once a centerpiece of the Old West, and has been a transportation hub of the Southwest for more than one hundred years.

I began my trek west at the Ocean-to-Ocean Highway Bridge, which spans the Colorado River in north Yuma. Now on the National Historical Register, the bridge was completed in 1915, which coincides with the early years of the Plank Road. The area directly surrounding the bridge is home to a cluster of historical sites. The Yuma Territorial Prison, which sits directly adjacent to the bridge, was an intriguing walk back into the rough-and-tumble Old West. The close-by Colorado River State Historic Park dates back to the late 19th century and preserves a small number of the Plank Road timbers in a display.

After riding over the Ocean-to-Ocean Highway Bridge, a quick left turn placed me immediately on Historic U.S. 80. The road took me by crumpling adobe structures, over the All-American Canal and through the sandy desert. Whereas nearby I-8 is smooth, wide and boring, Historic U.S. 80 is narrow, cracked, undulating and entertaining. It requires attention and a bit of slaloming to avoid jarring reminders that it is a historic route. The long suspension on the BMW was tailor-made for the unpredictable road conditions.

Plank Road
A ride on Historic U.S. 80 requires vigilance. Sand drifts, potholes and crumbling margins speak to its relegation to secondary status.

After this opening act of my Historic U.S. 80 tour, I rejoined I-8 for a bit. Portions of Historic U.S. 80 are relegated to spur status–they “spur” off of the interstate but terminate without rejoining the new route. One such spur is Grays Well Road.

The Grays Well section of the original route is now a well-paved ingress into the Imperial Sand Dunes portion of the larger geological feature known as the Algodones Dunes. These dunes are what made the Plank Road necessary in the early 1900s. After enjoying a short, beautiful ride through shining sand hills, I came to the site that contains the longest and best-preserved portion of the Old Plank Road.

What I found was a stretch of the Old Plank Road that spans the equivalent of about five football fields in length. The road is protected from potential damage by off-road vehicles with metal, sand-worthy barriers, but visitors can touch and walk the Plank Road section. The road is intriguing. It has weathered and rusted into a heaving work of art.

Plank Road
One can almost hear the rhythmic thumping of Model T tires when visiting the protected section of the wood Plank Road. The vast majority of nearby interstate travelers have no idea that this historic relic even exists.

So why was the timber road ever built? Quite simply, it was commercially important to have a direct route here from the growing and thriving San Diego coastal area to the west. While asphalt and concrete road building techniques of the time worked reasonably well on the harder surfaces of the area directly east of the coast, the shifting sands of the Algodones Dunes posed a huge quandary for road builders.

San Diego businessman Ed Fletcher was the driving force that ultimately led to the construction of the Plank Road. That bumpy, ever-changing, maintenance-intensive endeavor continued as the transportation solution for crossing more than six miles of the dunes from 1915 through 1926.

Plank RoadI walked, touched and studied the Plank Road in solitude. Not a single soul even drove by in the substantial time I spent in the surreal dunes. When I finally pulled myself away, I took another short ride on the interstate before jumping back on Historic U.S. 80 toward the California towns of Holtville and El Centro. The long, straight stretch of the historic road gave me time to ruminate on the Plank Road and the challenges of early travelers.

Much of Historic U.S. 80 runs parallel with and in close proximity to the interstate, but it is worlds apart in terms of traffic and fun. There are remnants and ruins of structures that were left to languish in the desert heat when traffic was rerouted to the newer and faster interstate.

Historic U.S. 80 runs through the hearts of both Holtville and El Centro, as both were supremely important to the commerce and trade of the time. Either of these cities can serve as a gas and food stop on this route; I found a hotel in El Centro just off the Historic U.S. 80 route.

Plank Road
The Cleveland National Forest spans 460,000 acres of desert and chaparral.

Ocotillo to Laguna Junction – on the Winding Road

While fascinating and historically rich, the prior day’s ride was, for the most part, straight. Motorcyclists, by nature, love curves and that is what this next leg of my ride on Historic U.S. 80 had to offer.

After a breakfast of huevos rancheros in El Centro, I made my way to Ocotillo. After rolling through the town, named after a type of cactus, I rode a nicely curvy stretch of I-8 until I came to the exit for the Desert View Tower. The tall, eclectic stone structure, which dates back to the time of the Plank Road, sits on another Historic U.S. 80 spur west of the interstate.

After a short visit to the tower, I crossed the interstate to the south onto a long, intact loop of Historic U.S. 80. The road is instantly winding and remains coiled for miles of highly entertaining riding. The little desert oasis town of Jacumba Hot Springs is home to its namesake spring, a few colorful buildings and a clothing-optional resort. I am sure to everyone’s delight I opted to stay clothed and keep riding.

Plank Road
The GS is right at home with several brethren outside the Jacumba Spa Restaurant.

At a few points along the route, the tall international border “wall” could be seen to the south and there were sporadic signs warning that the region is subject to illegal drug trafficking. However, from the rolling perspective of a motorcycle saddle, there is a slow-paced calm to the area.

I rode through several small clusters of humanity and miles of unspoiled nature toward the Campo Indian Reservation and the Cleveland National Forest. The road conditions are variable and there are sections of concrete as well as reasonably maintained asphalt. However, from a pure riding perspective, I found this to be the most entertaining stretch of the route.

Plank Road
The Jacumba section just north of the U.S./Mexico border is the most curvy and entertaining of the ride.

Laguna Junction to the Beautiful Balboa Park

At Laguna Junction, Historic U.S. 80 runs north of the interstate for a while as it winds to the west. I passed through the small towns of Guatay and Descanso Junction, and the increased elevation of 4,000 feet brought with it a nice mix of oak and pine trees. Where Historic U.S. 80 melds back into I-8, I could see several now impassable portions of the old road in the mountains to my right.

From this point on through Alpine, El Cajon and La Mesa, Historic U.S. 80 flirts with and becomes the interstate and other roads intermittently. The ride in this stretch was much more frenetic and filled with traffic than the rest of the route, and rolled through historic commercial districts and residential communities as the ride became increasingly urban.

Plank Road
The entrance of the stunning Balboa Park is an impressive foreshadowing of the treasures within.

After several miles of this suburban jockeying, I rolled to the end of my tour as I entered the stunningly beautiful Balboa Park. The “Jewel of San Diego” spells the approximate end of the Historic U.S. 80, and a perfect end to the ride. The lush natural environment combined with fantastic museums and entertainment venues like the Old Globe Theater make Balboa one of the most delightful parks in the Southwest.

My final stop was the San Diego Automotive Museum in Balboa Park, which houses a nice collection of historic motorcycles alongside vintage and unique cars and trucks. Fittingly, the museum features a creative display dedicated to the Old Plank Road, which brings it to life and provides a fine overview of this significant part of transportation history.

Plank Road
The San Diego Automotive Museum in Balboa Park features a current exhibition that brings the Plank Road to life.
Plank Road
Historic photos and staged exhibits in the museum show the wonders and challenges of crossing the Imperial Dunes.

Riding Considerations

Being a desert region, this ride is best made from fall to spring. The summer months are sweltering. Road conditions are extremely variable as there are sections of both asphalt and concrete. Potholes, sand and some broken tarmac should be expected. For a detailed series of route maps, visit americanroads.us/ushighways/ushighway80.html.

Source: RiderMagazine.com