Tag Archives: Touring

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 7 | Tenere Rally kicks off!

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts


Day 7

Nervous excitement and the sound of rain led to a broken sleep. I’d been warned that the surrounding clay roads could become challenging when wet, hence the nerves. Today was going to be a riding day I’d never forget.

On the bike and off to our briefing for Day One. Greg had suggested a buddy system and matched us up with other riders. We also had our pre-loaded GPS to guide us plus sweep riders, so I felt reassured. Greg and the team conducted a clear and concise briefing and he probably felt like he was holding back wild stallions as riders were brimming with enthusiasm to get underway. Me, I was happy to ride at the back of the pack and learn as I went.

I followed Chris my riding buddy and we probably left about mid pack. Within minutes our GPS was leading us through secondary road which was an easy introduction to the Rally.

The first day of the Tenere 700 Rally would be both the most challenging and rewarding of my riding life

I was intermittently activating my chin mounted GoPro and providing my own commentary, which I think was my way of dealing with my nerves. First stop was scheduled to be at the Pub With No Beer at Taylors Arms, but that seemed a long way off.

As we hit dirt my lack of off road skills become glaringly obvious as riders overtook me with ease and looked very comfortable in doing so. The road conditions deteriorated and felt greasy under foot. I grow in confidence whenever I bounce over a tree root or splash through a water filled clay pool.

My excitement quickly changes as I approach a series of rutted wheel tracks filled with water. Even rewatching my GoPro footage I don’t know what happened, but my front wheel washed out in the clay as I slid down through the mud pit.

I’d just dumped by $18,000 motorcycle and was instantly panicking about any damage. Pride kicked in and I wanted to pick the bike up before anyone saw her laying in a mud bath. Rather than inspect for damage, I decided to jump straight back on the horse and asses any damage later.

As I continued along the challenging slippery roads, I was relieved I’d invested in my boots. Other than a bruised knee and smack to my confidence I felt okay. My fall had me drop back through the pack, but I had the reassurance of the sweep riders at the back of the field.

I try to refocus, shrug off my fall and reel in the pack ahead of me. The clay roads become even rutted as our GPS twists and snakes us towards lunch. As I round a slow corner, I see the road rise steeply ahead.

The trail cambers off sharply both sides, so clearly the trick is to stay in the centre of the track and avoid slipping into the deep dirt gutters on either side. Like a moth to the flame, the more I tell myself to avoid the deep gutter, the more my bike drifts to the left until a crash into the embankment.

Fall number two. This time I’m wedged between the bike and the embankment with my left leg caught under the bike. I can’t see my ankle but I know its caught in my Rotopax and hyper extended. I try to lift the bike whilst laying underneath it but I’m worried if I do the bike will roll back down hill further extending my trapped ankle.

I decide its worth the risk and manage to lift the bike enough to free my ankle and stand up. Nothing appears sprained or broken, however my knee and ankle are in pain and I’m hobbling as I attempt to lift the Tenere.

My confidence is completely smashed. I don’t know the extent of damage to the bike but I’ve hurt my knee and ankle, and I’m out of my depth. This is harder than anything I’ve ever done on a motorcycle.

Rooster riding sweep catches up with me, checks I’m okay and leads me through to the lunch break.
As I arrive at the Pub With No Beer I feel like I’m doing the walk of shame. Dead last, covered in mud and hobbling. Greg wanders over to check on me, I admit to a couple of falls, to which he seems un-phased and offers a few words of encouragement.

I inspect the bike for damage fearing the worst but can’t believe the only sign of falls is a slight scuff to my left Barkbuster. Whilst I try my best to project my typically bubbly and positive personality, quitting the rally seems a real option.

Stephen Gall was along for the ride and is an absolute legend, with a passion for coaching riders…

I head up to lunch in what will be the turning point of the rally for me. As luck would have it I’m sharing a table with Stephen Gall and Alan Roe, a former Finke Desert race winner. One of my favourite sayings in life is, “If you are the smartest person in the room, you’re in the wrong room.” By that logic I was at the right table. These guys were amazing and it was clear they both have a real passion for coaching and helping riders.

Two key pieces advice I was going to implement immediately were from Alan – run a gear higher to smooth out my dirt riding, and Stephen – 90 per cent of the time twisting the throttle will save you.

Advice from the guys and a warm meal had settled my nerves slightly, but I was far from confident I’d make it to the end of the rally. The heavens open and riders run to their bikes to collect their gear. Shortly after this Greg calls us to muster a nearby shed for an unscheduled briefing.

The “zero riders” whom head out early to sweep the road ahead have radioed in with bad news. The constant rain has made the tracks impassable, not only the special stage, but also the standard route. Any confidence I’d gained over lunch quickly dissipated.

Our Trail Boss (Greg) had a solution for us. It seems he knows these parts of the world pretty well and is confident he can come up with an adventurous route and use a corner man system to guide us through.

A slight break in the weather has us heading for our bikes and off we go, keeping an eye out for riders at corners directing us on our new route. As we leave the bitumen the dirt roads rapidly deteriorate and we climb, descend and climb again through the valley somewhere near Belligen.

The roads are a combination of rock, clay, grit and covered with a layer of leaf mulch making them incredibly slippery. I’ve never concentrated so much in my life on two wheels, and suddenly realise these conditions are far more changing than prior to lunch where I crashed twice.

We take a break after an hour or so and once I stop and look around the scenery if simply breath-taking. It’s like we have been teleported to a tropical rain forest surrounded by luscious ferns and cloaked in a blanket of mist on top of the world.

As we continue the road begin to descend with what seems like an endless run of down hill tight turns. Somehow I’ve kept the bike upright so far and think of nothing but the next corner. I tight right corner leads to a steep downhill run and I come across the group stopped in a pack in the middle of this wet, muddy leafy track.

Word spreads that there is a tree across the track and the crew is working hard to remove it. Several of us wander down to investigate and see that the tree is only part of the issue. There is a creek crossing about knee deep immediately followed by a deep muddy hill climb. Riders more skilled than me start to express doubts about making the climb, so obviously I’m quietly panicking.

Greg decides before any bikes attempt the climb we need to ensure our support ute can get through. After about fifteen minutes and a dozen or so guys helping push, the ute makes the climb to a loud cheer. Now for the bikes.
Single file bikes attempt the creek crossing and climb, with guys standing either side of the hill to assist anyone who gets into trouble. Most riders scramble or fishtail up the climb with the occasional rider needing assistance from the sidelines.

Day One of the Tenere Rally saw us conquer the ‘Valley of Doom’ despite some reservations

My immediate thoughts are, “Who can ride my bike up for me and I’ll just walk.”

I talk myself into have a crack at it, after all what do I have to lose as I’ve already crashed twice. If I’m doing this I’m not going to be last, so I line up leaving only three or four riders behind me.

I waddle the big Tenere into the creek where one of the crew has been standing to help riders through. I look up and see the challenge ahead and can’t believe I’m even attempting this. I hear Stephen Galls words ringing in my ears, “Just twist the throttle and go”. At that exact moment the crew member next to me yells in my ear, “Go, go go!!”

I really don’t recall what happened next, but I made it straight through the creek and up the hill. The video of the climb reveals my deafening squeal of excitement as I couldn’t believe I’d made it.

This had been the most challenging and most rewarding day I’ve ever had on a motorcycle. I’d gone from the verge of quitting to complete jubilation. I honestly don’t remember the rest of the ride to Coffs Harbour. I can’t explain the feeling of euphoria in facing my fears and succeeding, but it was awesome.

We arrived in Coffs at the resort where the crew was staying to collect our gear from the Mercedes monster truck. As I hadn’t booked ahead I was staying at a neighbouring resort so I headed off to enjoy a shower, get changed and then back for dinner with the group.

Back in the room I gingerly removed my left boot to survey any damage to my left ankle. Other than some swelling and limitation in movement I had survived my crashes. I have no doubt that without these boots my left ankle and/or lower leg would have likely been broken.

Suddenly $550 sounds like a bargain compared to hospital cost, booking a flight home, paying to freight my bike and forfeiting the rest of the rally. I’ll never ride off road again without proper boots – thanks Greg.

I returned to meet the riders for dinner with some good-hearted ribbing of my excited squealing earlier in the day. My confidence started to slowly return not only succeeding but hearing from other riders that they found it extremely challenging too and was harder than any other day they’ve had on a rally. To confirm this Greg Yager even named the infamous climb the ‘Valley of Doom’ and voiced his pleasure that the group had conquered such a challenge.

After sharing a few stories and laughs I headed back to my room for a well-earned rest. What will day two of the rally bring?


Day 7: 310 total km. Highlight – Valley of Doom. Must do – Pub with No Beer.

Stay tuned for Day 8 of Mark’s trip…

Source: MCNews.com.au

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 6 | Rally Prep with RideADV

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts


Day 6

It was a long night of cursing myself for forgetting my mattress and I accumulated maybe four hours sleep, but that wasn’t going to curb the day’s excitement.

First job was to head off to RSM motorcycles to have new shoes fitted to the T7. Tyres seem to be in short supply and they had managed to source me a Motoz RallZ for the rear, and Greg Yager brought up a Pirelli Rally for the front.

I was impressed with the great service at RSM. I was offered a free coffee voucher for a local coffee shop, and the use of their demo Kawasaki Z1000 to get there – awesome! Good marketing? I had several people walk up to me at the coffee shop and enquire about the bike, well done RSM.

First up was setting the Tenere 700 up with appropriate shoes, then grabbing a set for myself

Upon returning to RSM I thought I’d have a look at their motocross boot selection, something I’d never owned before. Greg and Abbey had made it clear in no uncertain terms that the road riding boots I arrived in would offer little lower leg protection. The young and very skilled salesman showed me a pair of Gaerne Boots, excitedly declaring he had my size in stock and how lucky I was.

I tried them on and was convinced there is no way I could ride a motorcycle whilst wearing these medieval torture clamps. Did I mention the young lad was a good salesman? He said all the right things, “They’ll loosen up”, “They’ll last ya ten years”, “You can’t put a price on safety” etc,, etc. A quick call the Greg and he kept it simple, “Just buy ‘em.”

I relented and said to the salesman, “Okay, sold,” to which he quickly replies, “Just letting you know they aren’t cheap.” Foolishly I had seen the price on the box of a different pair of boots, $199, which seemed fair for boots. When he muttered the words, “Five – ninety – nine”, I felt air leave my lungs and my hand quickly retracted from my wallet. Once I regained consciousness, I justified the expense in my head and haggled for a better price, $550. This proved to be my best purchase of the trip, more on this later.

On the way back to the showgrounds I managed to talk my way into a booked out motel, I was so excited, no sleeping on the ground for me tonight.

It was great to meet the incoming Tenere riders, hear their stories and see how they had customised their bikes. Several riders asked about my ride so far as they had seen photos on various Facebook groups.

I’d heard the name Stephen Gall mentioned a few times by the RideADV crew, a motocross legend being five-time Australian Champion. He would be participating in the Rally as Yamaha’s ambassador and there was excitement about his arrival. I’m embarrassed to say coming from a road riding background, I’d never heard the name, but was looking forward to meeting him.

Bikes rolled in throughout the day and the RideADV team were busy at check-in with registration, collection of rider’s GPS, determining if rider were standard or advanced routes and scrutineering of bikes.

We were meeting at a local club for a welcome dinner this evening, so I headed back to my motel room to check in and prepare for dinner. It was a huge relief that we were fully supported for the rally with a massive Mercedes truck that looked like it just rolled out of Dakar, carrying our gear.

Day 6 saw scrutineering ahead of the Tenere Rally, loading up the GPS and a welcome beer!

Dinner was included as part of our registration, so needless to say there was 100 per cent attendance. It was a great social night meeting riders and of course Greg provided the official welcome offering an insight of what to expect over the next four days.

There were several prizes awarded, one being “Longest Travelled” to the rally. I was quietly confident my two thousand plus kilometre trip had me as the front runner winning maybe a cap, RideADV T-shirt or set of steak knives. I was shocked when Greg announced Teknics had donated a Stage One suspension kit – wow! Cheers guys, I can’t wait to send my suspension off for the upgrade.

We all left the club early knowing tomorrow would be a big day. I was still full of excitement on one hand, but also terrified that I was out of my depth. Too late now Mark, suck it up and get ready!


Day 6: Total km – Maybe 10? Highlight – Meeting the Tenere riders. Must do – A group ride to meet other riders.

Stay tuned for day seven..

Source: MCNews.com.au

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 5 | DMK Designs & Wauchope

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts


Day 5

After a long night with little sleep it was time to load the bike up and head to a pressure washer to clean the bike and be at DMK by 7:30 am. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning and can’t wait for my new graphics to be fitted.

I’m ahead of schedule, the Tenere is kind of clean, so time for a quick McBreakfast before heading over the DMK. I meet Jeff’s right hand man Wayne and no doubt bore him with my excitement of having the graphics fitted. He shows me the graphics laid out on the cutting table and I ‘Ooooh’ and ‘Ahhhhh’ over the design.

Posing with my transformed Tenere 700 at DMK Designs

I position the bike for the obligatory before photo and let Wayne go to work preparing the bike for her new clothes. After thirty minutes or so, it dawns on me that he probably isn’t enjoying me watching every move and suggest I head over to McDonalds for a coffee. Very politely Wayne replies that’s a good idea and to come back in an hour or so.

Back to McDonalds and time to reply to some of my Facebook comments and questions which motivates me to improve the documenting of my trip, especially the GoPro component which has been inconsistent at best.

Two hours pass quickly and I head over to see Wayne and my ‘Dakar’ themed Tenere. ‘Wow’ is my initial response and I immediately start taking photos of the finished product. Great job guys, the attention to detail and installation was awesome.

Where has the day gone? Wauchope is calling and I want to be there before dark if possible. Jeff had suggested I take the Bylong Road, and after a few stubborn conversations with my ZUMO XT GPS off we head. Leaving town I keep looking down at the tank like a kid admiring his new toy. I’m sure you could see my grin through my helmet.

Speaking of grins, the road through the Bylong Valley towards Jerrys Plains is an absolute ripper. The perfect combination of bitumen twisties lowering you into the valley floor, then climbing out of the valley through curves that bring a wide smile to any rider. I saw several road bikes in this section and if I had more time I’d have turned around and ridden this section again.

The Bylong Highway offered some great photo opportunities

It was a quick fuel up and bite to eat at Jerrys Plains and then onwards to Wauchope with still over 300 kilometres to go. I wasn’t ready for the grind of city traffic yet, but as I approached the Pacific Highway just west of Newcastle the queues begin.

The next two hours proved to be challenging in a different way. Fatigue from the last few days was creeping in, it was dark, it began raining and I felt surrounded by trucks and cars who clearly though the speed limit was an advisory sign.

About thirty minutes from Wauchope and I decide to stop to fuel up and take a quick stretch. I still have no plans for tonight, except to meet the RideADV team at the Wauchope Showgrounds. I have my camping gear with me which I haven’t used yet, or I could grab a motel room.

I gave Greg Yager a call just to check they were welcoming strangers at the Showgrounds. Abbey the Sweep Rider answers the phone on behalf of Greg, I introduce myself and Abbey encourages me to come and meet the team.

Have I mentioned I’m a bit apprehensive about my first rally? Although I’ve spoken with Greg a couple of times, I’d never met any of the team, or any of the thirty plus riders who had entered.

With names like TB, Abbey the Sweep Rider, Crash, Clay and Rooster they sound more like outlaw bikers than an adventure rider tour group.

The ride into Wauchope means exiting the Pacific Highway much to my relief and then winding my way into town. The GPS guides me to the showground but I then spend fifteen minutes trying to break into what appears to be a fortified facility. I park up on the footpath and a friendly jogger offers to guide me to the secret entrance.

He points me in the right direction and as I approach the automatic gate it opens as a car leaves. Great – this is my chance to sneak in. The car stops next to me, “G’day Batts welcome, come on in, you’ll see the tent set up. We’re off for ice cream, want one?” I assume they are part of the RideADV team.

The RideADV crew weren’t that scary, don’t let Greg Yager’s looks fool you!

Maybe they aren’t outlaw bikers after all. I still can’t believe I said no to the ice cream. I ride in and see the impressive RideADV set up, this isn’t a tent it looks more like a pop up castle, impressive. The set up is fully lit and I begin casting my eyes over the bling on the crews Tenere 700s as I pull up.

As I slide off my bike and remove my helmet Greg walks over, welcomes me, and we continue our Facebook Live chatting about the ride, accessories and the upcoming rally.

Once the camera is put away Greg introduces me to the rest of the team and makes me feel very welcome. He hands be a coldie and tells me to help myself to pizza. I may have been shy with the ice-cream, but I’m not knocking back pizza. A couple of hours pass quick as they share some of their stories and give me an insight of what is ahead over the next few days.

Its now the wrong side of 10:00 pm, and I need to start thinking about where to sleep. It’s too late and too many drinks to look for a motel so time to break out my new camping gear I purchased the day prior to departure. Setting your tent up for the first time in the dark isn’t ideal, but it’s up in a few minutes and sleeping bag and gel seat pillow ready to go. Then my heart sinks, I’ve forgotten to pack my Xped inflatable mattress.

Let’s say it was long and uncomfortable night sleeping on the ground. Tomorrow is scrutineering day and a chance to meet a few of the riders.


Day 5: 485 km total. Highlight – New Graphics for Tenere. Must do – Bylong Highway.

Stay tuned for Day 6..

Source: MCNews.com.au

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 4 | Wanaaring to Mudgee

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts


Day 4

I knew today was going to be a long day, slabs of straight bitumen roads as I head towards Bourke, Dubbo and then hopefully Mudgee for the night. So why the focus on Mudgee if the rally starts from Wauchope I hear you ask?

Since before buying my T7 I had been thinking of what custom graphics would adorn my new adventure bike. My love for the Paris Dakar meant I wanted to incorporate the iconic Dakar logo while retaining the history of the Tenere name.

There was miles of smiles heading East from Wanaaring

I had no interest in fitting my own graphics kit, let’s just say I was at the back of the line when handyman skills were handed out. I knew I’d stuff it up and cringe looking at any photos of my pride and joy. DMK kept popping up in my searches and it wasn’t too far from Wauchope, so I reached out to DMK owner Jeff Dray. He offered an installation service and helped me finalise a design.

The run to Bourke was a straight and uneventful run, other than a tricky roadworks section which saw me directed towards a truck head on. Then it was just a quick splash of fuel and advice on where to eat in town.

The friendly attendant directed me down the road to Morralls Bakery, which was a great tip. After indulging in some pastry delights and experiencing some wonderful country customer service, it was time to continue towards Mudgee.

This proved to be another long straight stretch and my mind began to wander and anxiety started to creep in about the upcoming rally and if I’d bitten off more than I can chew. Like an oasis Mulga Creek Pub appeared and even though I wasn’t really hungry or thirsty this is a location you can’t drive past.

There was some long stretches of bitumen on Day 4 which leave you plenty of time to think

I just can’t get enough of these unique outback pubs, not just the theme and the character, but the people you meet who keep services open for us. Our chat was all too brief before I continued down the Mitchell Highway towards Nyngan.

Phone reception has been patchy throughout the day, and whenever I return to service the Bluetooth in my helmet commences a rapid fire dings of messages and emails. I pull over, check to see if there is anything urgent and notice a message from Jeff at DMK, “Did you want your graphics on Gloss or Matte?” Having no idea, I thought I’d give the expert a call to help me decide.

Jeff answered and immediately commented on my “Epic Adventure” and let me know he was following my progress. I was still amazed that anyone was interested in my ride to Wauchope, but I thanked him and settled on Gloss.

Mulga Creek Pub proved too hard to resist, who could ride past this…

Jeff let me know his offsider would be fitting my graphics kit as he was at Dubbo Hospital with his wife as they were expecting a new addition to the family. ‘No problem mate, and all best with the birth of bub,’ I said, to which Jeff then replied, “Hey won’t you be going through Dubbo? If so we could catch up the way through.”

He’s a braver man than me leaving his expecting wife in hospital, but it would be great to catch up. “Nah its all-good mate,” he reassures me, “She’s not due for a couple of days.”

We agree on McDonalds in Dubbo, and within a couple of hours I’m pulling into the carpark with thoughts fixated on a McFeast and large fries and catching up with Jeff of course. After a couple of awkward message back and forth of “Are you sure you’re at McDonalds?” we realise there are two in town and Jeff drives over to meet me.

We spent about thirty minutes chatting about his beautiful wife (Jeff you still owe me $20 for saying this), motorcycles and business. It’s great to meet someone who is so passionate about their business and the motorcycle community. Jeff gives me some advice on the best route to Mudgee, but fails to let me know about the mouse plague that was gripping the greater Dubbo region – more on that shortly.

While I love riding at night, it presents challenges when trees and bushes are close to the road edge hiding wildlife that decides it’s the perfect time to explore. There were a quite a few kangaroo carcasses strewn through the winding roads and my pace eased accordingly, making the ninety minutes run to Mudgee look more like two hours.

Did I mention the mouse plague? I felt like I was playing live action “Frogger” with mice constantly crossing my path, flickering as they enter my headlights illumination.

Just after 7:00 pm I see the welcome signs for Mudgee and start looking for “Vacancy” signs as I haven’t booked any accommodation. I pass a series of “No Vacancy” signs until I finally see VACANCY flashing at the opposite end of town. I stop and walk into reception only to be told they are booked out and the “NO” sign isn’t working. I plead my case and the receptionist suggests a room at the Pub down the road – perfect.

My accommodation luck finally ran out it would seem…

I head into the pub and ask if they have anything available, and it appears I’m in luck. “We’ve had a few late walk ins, but I do have a room with one bed, is that okay?” I jokingly reply that its just me, so that’s fine. The young guy guides me to my room, round the back of the pub, up a long flight of stairs, through a common area to the base of a second set of stairs. He stops and points up the stairs and says, “It’s the room at the end.”

I ascend the stairs to the sound of high-pitched colourful language between a couple of lovely ladies. As I pass their room they slam their door and I’m hit with a strong “herbal” smell. I arrive at my room at the end of the hall ready to unload my gear, flop on the bed and relax.

As I open the door I’m confronted by what you can only describe as a converted broom closet. As I manoeuvre in and close the door my head hits the sharply sloping ceiling. The door itself have slots cut in the timber with a small metal grid placed over the cuts, I assume this is an attempt to allow air into the room as there are no windows.

My converted broom closet, lesson learnt, book accommodation before arriving in Mudgee

My luck had to run out eventually. Time to return to the bike, carry my bags up two flights of stairs, check some of my GoPro footage and prepare for tomorrows adventure – Wauchope.

Day 4: Total kilometres: 690. Highlight: Mulga Creek Pub. Must do: Book accommodation if travelling to Mudgee!

Stay tuned for Day 5…

Source: MCNews.com.au

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 3 | Tibooburra to Wanaaring

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby


Day 3

I won’t lie, I was feeling pretty excited about the day’s ride out to Cameron Corner, something I thought was out of range on this trip. Not only would I be able to secure bragging rights that I’d visited Queensland, but it would be the most remote destination I’d be taking the bike. Sure, it wasn’t a Simpson crossing, but to me it was beyond my comfort zone on a solo trip.

I followed the route suggested by the boys the previous night, and instantly loved the scenery. Everything changed so fast, from trees and a sea of green bushes, through to barren plains. The road conditions were extremely good, and I felt a little embarrassed that I had been nervous about this leg of the trip.

I was somewhat nervous about my first sand riding on the T7

There was the occasional detour where a clay section had been badly chewed up, but overall it provided an opportunity to practise standing on the pegs, twist the throttle and love every moment on the Tenere.

After an hour of so the road suddenly dipped, and a “DETOUR” sign directed me to the right. I had to investigate why I was being detoured, and only a few metres later was confronted by a massive clay pan with flooding down the middle. There was the odd track across the clay plan either side of the flooding, however the idea of being bogged up to the axles alone out here had me head back towards the suggested detour.

The detour road gave me my first taste of deep soft sand and it was obvious I had no idea what I was doing. I was still running road tyre pressures on my stock Pirellis, but let’s be honest, it was the rider that was the weakest link here. After a few ‘Oh shit’ moments I managed to keep the T7 upright and before I knew it the road surface hardened and I was back up to speed.

As I take the fork onto ‘The Dunes Scenic Drive’ I pinch myself, I can’t believe where I am and loving every moment of it. I reflect back to the days leading up to the trip where it felt too hard, how unprepared I was and the challenge seemed too much. Man am I glad I’m here.

All too soon I’m at the ‘Welcome to South Australia’ gate which I timed well as there was a line of four wheel drives entering NSW and they held the gate open for me – cheers guys. I head over to fuel up at Cameron Corner store with the iconic bowsers covered in thousands of stickers from visitors far and wide.

The campground looked deserted and the bowsers locked so I head into the general store pub. The sign on the door highlights what I come to experience throughout my trip, “Due to lack of staff we open at 10am.”

Stopping in at the Cameron Corner General Store for a refill and feed

Thankfully it’s 9:45 am, and within minutes I am greeted by the charismatic Manager, caretaker, jack of all trades. She was one of my favourite personalities of the entire trip, and the majority of the colourful conversation I can’t repeat here.

What was available for brunch? Instant coffee, deep fried dim sims and chicken nuggets. I accepted them gladly and was thankful for the effort, this wasn’t a lady to cross.

The hour went too fast, and I had to say goodbye. I just hope she is still there on my next trip as I know it’ll be a great laugh. The run back to Tibooburra was just as enjoyable, and I take time to stop along the way grab some drone footage and a few photos.

I decide to stop at the Tibooburra Pub to rehydrate and determine where to next. I’d been so excited by the morning at Cameron Corner, I had absolutely no idea where to next. Google Maps suggests I need to head towards Bourke, however this was over 400 km away and it was already mid-afternoon. A closer look shows a town I’ve never heard of, Wanaaring, which is within reach at only 240 km.

This proves to be the most challenging road of the trip so far. Many sections lend itself to cruising at speeds frowned upon by some, combined with dozens of cattle grids resulting in some less than smooth landings. This can be quickly followed by sandy stretches, sudden turns and rocks the size of dragon eggs.

On two occasions these dragon eggs smashed into my bash plate with a force that had my personal under carriage cringing. A quick stop was required after the second hit as I was sure there must have been some damage. The inspection revealed the B&B bash plate had done its job, so back onto the bike I got as the clouds gathered and sun was rapidly setting behind me.

The road to Wanaaring offered a variety of gravel, sand, sharp rocks and cattle grates

Approximately fifty kilometres from Wanaaring and the fuel light begins flashing, this seems far too soon, but in fairness my riding had been somewhat spirited. I am carrying a 7.6 litre Rotopax so I’m not worried about running out of fuel, but I’d prefer to not have to unload my saddlebags to access the fuel.

Only 15 kilometres to go and the road conditions deteriorate, the rocks feel like landmines littering the road taking aim at my rims. I then realise I have absolutely no idea what exists at Wanaaring, when it comes to accommodation or fuel.

I’ve got 7 litres of fuel, 1.5 litres of water, and 6 muesli bars. As I turn the corner into Wanaaring I breathe a sigh of relief as I see a fuel bowser outside the general store so I know at least fuel, food and water are available.

As soon as I step off my bike I’m greeted by one of the most inquisitive little girls I’ve ever met. I think she asked twenty questions within sixty seconds, and didn’t really need an answer to any of them. Perhaps my favourite was, “Are you riding alone because you don’t have any friends?”

A sense of outback humour you’ll only find at an Aussie Outback Pub

Colin wandered over to fuel the bike up and immediately apologised for the list of questions, but of course I loved it. Let me say this, Colin was a legend. Even though Colin was locking up for the night he insisted he turn on the grill and cook me up whatever I wanted from the menu. I tried to settle on a Coke and bag of chips but Colin just wouldn’t have it. Oh, and the kicker? Colin had one cabin style room felt, I couldn’t believe my luck.

I walked to the adjoining campground towards my mining hut style cabin and chatted with some friendly tourists gathered around an impressive camp fire. There was a collection of four wheel drives and off-road caravans, but they all wanted to know about my Tenere. How far can she get on a tank? Do you get a sore arse? What about Kangaroos? And a repeat of the little girls question, “Why are you doing it alone?”

Time to catch up on my social media, I can’t believe it’s now up to thousands of comments, likes and questions about my trip. I’m surprised but also love that motorcycle enthusiasts have a real interest in my trip. Time to look at the GPS, Mudgee is my destination tomorrow.

Wanaaring accommodation was basic but I was very appreciative of a warm and comfy bed

Day 3: Total kilometres: 520km. Highlight: Ride to Cameron Corner. Must do: Grab a Chicken Burger from Colin at Wanaaring.

Stay tuned for day four….

Source: MCNews.com.au

Long Way to Wauchope | Part 2 | Wentworth to Tibooburra

Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby


Day 2

Rolling out of Wentworth and I was greeted by a clear and refreshing morning (it was cold!), and the map showed it was going to be a straight bitumen run to Broken Hill. About 40 km out of Wentworth as the sun rose, the beauty of the vastness of Australia was revealed. Perfect time for the first drone flight of the trip.

If you’ve never used a drone before, they are fantastic, providing an alternative perspective and really enhancing the record of your travels. Within thirty minutes I’m back on the bike, and now allowing myself to focus on the possibility of adding Queensland to my two week adventure.

The Australian outback offers some incredible sunrises and sunsets

It felt like sunrise had the temperature drop below freezing as my thin gloves struggled to stop the numbing of my fingers, then came a very embarrassing realisation… I had heated grips fitted three days prior to departure and had completely forgotten about them.

I smashed that button like a teenager playing Fortnite and went straight to 100 per cent on the heat controller. Within minutes, ahhhhhhh, how I love heated grips.

An uneventful run up the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill followed, with quick stop for fuel, and then onwards to Silverton, with anticipation building for the Silverton Pub and Mad Max Museum. A short thirty minute ride, and you are greeted by the Silverton welcome sign.

Turning into the ‘Main Street’ towards the pub revealed a scene that felt like a cross between an outback pub, an American wild west town and an RSL club. A couple of donkeys meander across the road to the pub where 4×4 tourist coaches are parked.

Arriving at Silverton Pub, complete with a couple of four-legged locals

As I walk into the Silverton Pub it’s filled with merchandise, memorabilia and visitors eager for photos taking shots at the iconic bar. The bartender is overwhelmed with the number of visitors (a common theme I observe throughout my trip) ordering drinks, meals, buying souvenirs and asking her to take their photos.

After a few minutes I place my order, classic chicken schnitty, grab my number and head outside to the beer garden. It’s a huge, expansive area and suddenly the quaint feel of the outback pub is lost, especially when my schnitty arrives served on a small Styrofoam disposable plate.

Next I ride up the road a few hundred metres to visit the Mad Max 2 Museum. I’m not going to spoil the experience, but if you are a Mad Max fan you’ll love it. The museum combines indoor and outdoor displays with everything from original costumes through to replica trucks and cars. An hour wasn’t enough, but I know I’ll be coming back.

The Mad Max 2 Museum is well worthy of a visit

Time to jump back on the Tenere as Tibooburra was still the aim for tonight, and that meant another 360 km in the saddle. The road from Broken Hill to Tibooburra has been bitumen for about 18 months so I should be able to punch out some miles pretty easy.

About 100 km south of Packsaddle I came across a group of ADV riders travelling at just below the speed limit, I pick my timing and slowly overtake them, so I also checkout the bikes and give the mandatory wave. A great variety of bikes with everything from a DR650 to a Ducati Multistrada, led by my bike’s predecessor, a 660 Tenere.

A few minutes after I begin fuelling at Packsaddle the group rolls in and wanders over to ask me a few questions about the Tenere 700. They were probably disappointed with my answers as I’ve never taken it on single track, haven’t crossed the Simpson and can’t compare it to ‘other’ adventure bikes.

We chatted for thirty minutes or so, and it was very tempting to join them for a nights bush camping, but I still had my eye on the prize of Tibooburra tonight.

The sun is low in the sky and I still have 160 km to go. Spoiler alert… this has to be one of my most memorable evening rides. The weather was just perfect, wide open plains, and a sunset that literally takes your breath away. A ninety minute ride turns into two hours plus as I can’t help myself stopping to take sunset photos, only to ride a few more kilometres and think the view is even better.

I was welcomed to Tibooburra by a fellow iron horse

As I ride into Tibooburra it’s well after dark and keeping with my spontaneous theme of the trip, I have no accommodation booked. I head into the pub and sheepishly ask if they have any rooms for the night. I’m initially welcomed with a friendly smile, followed by the curious look and, “You haven’t booked during peak season?”

Thankfully for me a late cancellation meant I scored the last pub room for the night and was then offered the VIP treatment often given to motorcyclists, “Mate just bring ya bike around the back, I’ll meet you there.” The barman comes around, compliments my bike, then insists I park it under the caretaker’s carport. Cheers.

I unpack the bike and settle into my typical looking pub room, everything I need for a comfy sleep. No time for a shower as I don’t want to miss out on a pub feed before the kitchen closes. I ask for a recommendation and am instantly told that you can’t go past the bangers and mash.

Not something I’d chose as a rule, but it was a generous serve and hit the spot. I then spent a couple of hours chatting with three guys that were working on the gas lines, and lucky for me, bike enthusiasts. I was told in no uncertain terms I had to ride to Cameron Corner, I’d love the ride and it was well worth it.

I’d been posting a few photos on Facebook pages since I left, mainly sunset pics (with the bike of course) as I love the lighting. I was blown away by the amount of interest with literally hundreds of likes, comments and questions about my trip.

People were asking about my YouTube channel, Facebook page and Instagram – of which I had none dedicated to the trip, something I’d need to address as my journey continued.

Day 2: Total kilometres: 680. Highlight: Sunset ride to Tibooburra. Must do: Mad Max Museum.

Stay tuned for Day 3….

Source: MCNews.com.au

Riding Wisconsin’s Waumandee Valley River Roads

Where Motorcyclists Roam
Riding Highway 88, aka Black Lightning. Photos by Kathleen Currie

Buffalo County, Wisconsin, is a hidden gem for motorcyclists. Located in the northwest part of the state, its southern border is the Mississippi River, which is the dividing line between Wisconsin and Minnesota. This is rural farm country, and the entire county has only one traffic light.

Buffalo County boasts dozens of fantastic motorcycling roads that twist along river banks, climb steep bluffs, dive into coulees and steep ravines, and cling to the edges of sandstone ridges. Numerous creeks and small rivers flow through the Waumandee Valley on their way to join the Mississippi, and they influence the shape and slope of these roads.

Where Motorcyclists Roam
Buffalo County appears to have the most curvy road signs in Wisconsin.

The best starting point is the town of Mondovi, located in the northeastern corner of Buffalo County. A quick fuel and food stop is recommended, as gasoline stations, restaurants, and other amenities are sparse as you head south. After a bite at McT’s Diner we follow County Roads (CR) H and ZZ south to a hook up with State Highway 88 at the Buffalo River.

Known as “Black Lightning,” Highway 88 has approximately 130 corners and curves in 40 miles as it runs from Gilmanton to the Mississippi River, making it one of Wisconsin’s highest-rated biker roads. It gives riders — and their brakes — a real workout as they ride the ridges and slash through a sandstone cut north of Praag.

Where Motorcyclists Roam
This tour route is available on the REVER app in the Rider Magazine community.

Link to Waumandee Valley River Roads tour on REVER

At CR U, we head east until we reach CR C at a crossroads just north of the village of Montana. CR C dishes up a variety of steep climbs and hairpin curves as we work our way south along Swinns Valley Creek, on our way to State Highway 95 just west of Arcadia. A short jog going west on 95 takes us to CR E, which heads northeast through Pansy Pass and Glencoe to Waumandee. CR E east of Waumandee has such steep hills that many homeowners have large angled mirrors mounted on posts at the foot of their driveways to help provide a view of any hidden oncoming traffic.

The village of Waumandee — Chippewa for “clear and sparkling water” — is worth a stop. It dates back to the 1850s, and Waumandee House, which was built in 1879, is still an active inn and restaurant. Every September the village hosts the Waumandee Hillclimb, a unique event for sports car enthusiasts. A two-mile stretch of Blank Hill Road west of Highway 88 is closed for a day of timed runs up an 18-turn hillclimb road course.

Where Motorcyclists Roam
J & J BBQ in downtown Nelson is a favorite biker stop.

Crossing Highway 88 we take a shot at Blank Hill Road, which is as challenging as advertised. Take care along the section of road that clings to the side of a cliff and has no guardrail. At CR N, we head north along Alma Ridge, which has some white-knuckle descents on its way to the Buffalo River at State Highway 37. A short jog up Highway 37 takes us to Highway KK on the west side of the Buffalo River.

Where Motorcyclists Roam
The lunch crowd heading down Great River Road (Highway 35) to Nelson.

Want a taste of riding the Isle of Man TT? Much like the famed road circuit, the CR KK south of Modena has climbs and descents chiseled into the sides of ridges with few guardrails, testing our binders and our nerves as we plunge down to CR D.

CR D winds west through rolling farm country to its junction with State Highway 35, which is known as the Great River Road and hugs the northern shore of the Mississippi. Overlooking the river, the town of Nelson has several recommended dining stops. On the day of our visit, J & J Barbeque and Nelson Creamery are overwhelmed with two-wheeled customers. We find an empty table at Beth’s Twin Bluff Café, and enjoy the best lemon pie we’ve ever tasted.

Where Motorcyclists Roam
Picturesque farms are everywhere in Buffalo County.

We headed north on State Highway 25 along the eastern edge of the Tiffany Bottoms Natural Area. At the village of Misha Mokwa, we turn east onto CR KK and complete the circle at the junction with CR D. Twists and turns command our full attention on our way to the village of Modena. Visit the general store in Modena to see two large motorcycle sculptures made from scrap metal, and pick up some cheese curds for a snack. We continue east on D until it dead-ends at Highway 37, then we follow the Buffalo River north and return to Mondovi.

The roads on this 110-mile loop are challenging, but most of the pavement is in good condition (be mindful of gravel in some corners). Part of what makes Buffalo County a great riding destination is the traffic — except for Highway 35, there is none! On a full day of weekend riding we encountered two tractors, two pickups, seven motorcycles, and one corn picker, which was blocking a narrow farm road. The only thing missing for a perfect riding weekend is a motorcycle class at the Waumandee Hillclimb so we can clock our time going up Blank Hill Road!

Where Motorcyclists Roam
Snaking roads and incredible scenery in the Waumandee Valley.

The post Riding Wisconsin’s Waumandee Valley River Roads first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

The Long Way to Wauchope | Part 1 | Buying a T7 & Setting Off

Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby


I still have dust collecting on my ’80s and ’90s Paris to Dakar VHS tapes I watched over and over as a teenager, dreaming of one day owning a high performance desert crossing machine.

Somehow road bikes found their way into my life, and a 10-year stint living in the USA saw me seduced by the dark side, owning several Harleys and immersing myself in the culture of orange and black merchandise.

While HD took me to some amazing places and events (like the insane Sturgis Rally), adventure was calling and I wanted to blast across deserts, explore forest trails and jump endless cattle grids.

I loved the ‘Rally Ready’ look of the much touted Yamaha Tenere 700

Fast forward a few years the big 5-0 hit and I was no closer to living out my dream. I was missing two key ingredients; an adventure bike and the skills to ride one. While I had several hundred thousand kilometres on road bikes, I’d never owned a true dirt bike.

Choosing the bike proved the easy part as I loved the ‘Rally Ready’ look of the much touted Yamaha Tenere 700. Of course finding one was the real challenge. As luck had it, I went bike shopping on my 50th birthday to a local Yamaha Dealer and as I walked in I saw two Teneres sitting on the floor, naturally assuming one was a demo and the other was sold.

The salesman was unsure when asked, looked up the details and then muttered the words, “It doesn’t appear to be allocated yet.” My credit card went down like a fat kid on a seesaw and she was mine.

So what now? I’m still missing the skills and of course I need all the accessories to at least look the part. I dove into YouTube and every Facebook group I could, immersing myself in information overload.

Two months later the bike is fitted with the necessary bling to look cool at my local coffee shop; bash plate, crash bars, Barkbusters, pannier racks and more. However the embarrassing reality was my T7 only had a pathetic 200 km on her and I had no idea where to ride or whom to ride with.

The Tenere 700 prior to fitting all the bling

During my research I discovered there was a dedicated Tenere 700 Four-Day Off-Road Navigation Rally staged by RideADV that promised adventure and exploration. It sounded perfect, if somewhat daunting, but there was one downside. The starting point was in Wauchope, NSW some 1,800 km away from my home in the Barossa Valley in SA.

The event was run by Greg Yager and his RideADV team and I had become a fan of their unedited and down to earth YouTube videos comparing various Tenere 700 accessories. A few Facebook messages, emails and phone calls and Greg had assured me it was going to be a great event and tapped into my just-do-it personality.

The clock was ticking as it was now less than two weeks before the Rally commenced, and I was far from prepared. As I read through the pre-rally notes I started to realise just how under-prepared I was.

‘No 50/50 tyres permitted’, ‘No soft sided adventure boots’ (more on this later) and being a GPS Navigation ride I kind of needed a GPS. A few more calls to Greg and I had tyres being shipped to Wauchope and a GPS ordered. Suddenly I realised I needed camping gear, an adventure helmet and I’d be away for the mandatory 1,000 km service so I need to have that done early.

Only days prior to departure and I still had no idea which route I was going to take to arrive at Wauchope. It just felt wrong to take a bike like the T7 on a 1,800 km bitumen ride, so I reached out to various Facebook groups seeking ideas for scenic off-road routes, which proved to be extremely helpful.

Sunday departure was aborted due to lack of preparation and was pushed back to noon on Monday. I suddenly felt a wave of anxiety, ‘What are you doing Mark? You’ve never owned a dirt bike, you don’t know which way you’re going, your riding solo and you don’t know anyone at the rally,’ I asked myself.

My partner came home for lunch to wish me good luck and take the necessary departure photos. I could sense the concerned look on her face as I rode off.

There was a couple of must-do stops, including to DMK Design

I only had two deadlines, be in Mudgee Friday morning to have custom Dakar graphics fitted by DMK Design, and Wauchope Saturday morning for pre-rally scrutineering.


Day 1

Day one saw me heading towards to Renmark and depending on time, the recommended ‘Rufus River Road’ passing Lake Victoria, testing my new gear as I went. I’d fitted a GoPro to my helmet and had been given a drone by my brother and sister as a 50th present, but had no idea how to use either of them.

I started to get used to the riding position and feel comfortable on the bike, only having amassed 600 km prior to departure. The run to Renmark was easy especially with my gel seat topper fitted and I felt like I was just on a really easy to ride road bike.

In contrast, as I turned onto Rufus River Road I realised this was going to be my first dirt sections. I was excited but also somewhat apprehensive. My naivety or ignorance saw me maintain 30+ PSI on my Pirelli STR tyres.

Confidence started to build on the loose gravel surface and my speed climbed accordingly. Suddenly I was exactly where I’d dreamed of, blasting across wide open plains, awkwardly standing on the pegs on a beautiful evening with the sun setting behind me.

The road surface changes, and the front wheel wandered as I hit a sandy stretch. My off-road inexperience saw me do all the wrong things, I slowed abruptly and landed my butt on the seat. All ended well, as I pulled to the side of the track, reminded myself what I’d read about sand riding, and took off again.

It’s amazing how quickly I regain my confidence, no doubt motivated by the spectacular scenery as I passed Lake Victoria and continued towards Wentworth. I glanced in my mirrors to witness a stunning orange glow at sunset and thought this was a great opportunity to stop and grab a few pics of my Tenere 700 on dirt roads instead of outside cafes in the Barossa Valley.

Rufus River Road, heading into Wentworth

It’s about an hour after sunset as I ride into Wentworth to grab some fuel and find some accommodation. After settling on the main street motel that adjoins a busy looking pub, I decide to reward myself with few beverages and a pub feed. My advice when stopping at pubs is to ask, what’s great on the menu? – lets face it they want you to have a great meal. The special was steak and giant onion rings, and it lived up to its reputation being an Instagram worthy dish. Day one done, and no idea where I was heading on day two…

Some late night research and suggestions from Facebook adventure groups had me eyeing the Darling River Run visiting towns dotted along this route. The days riding was coming together when I read a disclaimer in one group, “Do not attempt after rain as clay roads will be impassable.”

A quick Bureau of Meteorology review revealed heavy rain and storms in the area, and with my ADV skills being at the shallower end of the mud pit, this route was quickly discarded.

An alternative trip materialised thanks to another Facebook member, “Ever seen the Mad Max Museum at Silverton?”. ‘Seriously Mark?’ I said to myself. I’ve been a Mad Max fan since my teen years, and I’ve never been there – this was a must visit!

The Mad Max Museum seemed a worthy attraction to add to the list

My eyes wandered further up the map seeing where this would take me. Suddenly in the back of mind was what seemed like a CRAZY suggestion from the early stage of my planning, Cameron Corner. The theme of this trip was going to be unplanned, spontaneous and adventurous, so let’s head north – maybe.

Day 1: Total kilometres: 400.  Highlight: Rufus River Road. Must do: Wentworth Pub.

Stay tuned for Day 2….

Source: MCNews.com.au

Fort Bragg to Sonoma Raceway: IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride

Open Road to Progressive IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride Sonoma Raceway
Taking in the view from Duncans Point on a cold, foggy summer day.
(Photo by Kevin Wing)

For 2021, the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows tour has been rebranded as Progressive IMS Outdoors and events will be held outside, like open-air powersports festivals. The tour will visit nine major markets around the U.S. between July and November (see the full schedule at motorcycleshows.com). Each stop will be a three-day event for powersports enthusiasts and potential riders of all ages and skill levels, with motorcycle demo rides and hands-on experiences unique to each venue. 

The first stop is in Northern California, at Sonoma Raceway over the weekend of July 16-18. We’re providing suggested scenic rides to or near each tour stop, with routes available on the REVER app. The Northern California ride is a 165-mile paved route that starts in the coastal town of Fort Bragg and ends at Sonoma Raceway, which is located north of San Francisco. Most of the route follows California State Route 1 south along the scenic, rugged Pacific Coast. 

Open Road to Progressive IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride Sonoma Raceway REVER map

Click here to view the REVER route shown above

Fort Bragg is a charming burg that’s home to the Sea Glass Museum, the Skunk Train, and North Coast Brewing Company. Heading south through town on Route 1 (Main Street), the ride begins on the Noyo River Bridge. Known in this area as Shoreline Highway, Route 1 is a scenic two-lane road that winds along the contours of the coast. Despite being just 165 miles long, this route typically takes four to five hours, not including stops. 

Open Road to Progressive IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride Sonoma Raceway
The route starts on the Noyo River Bridge in Fort Bragg. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)

You’ll want to stop often at the many towns, natural areas, scenic overlooks, and state parks along the way, such as the Navarro River Bridge, where Route 128 goes inland to the Navarro River Redwoods State Park. Other highlights include Mendocino, Point Arena Lighthouse, Stewarts Point, Salt Point State Park, Fort Ross, Jenner, Sonoma Coast State Park, Duncans Point, and Bodega Bay. 

Open Road to Progressive IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride Sonoma Raceway
Jenner is a charming village near where the Russian River flows into the Pacific. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)

After riding along the eastern edge of Tomales Bay, you’ll arrive in the town of Point Reyes Station. Turn onto Point Reyes-Petaluma Road, which follows Lagunitas Creek and passes along the Nicasio Reservoir. The route continues east, crosses U.S. Route 101, and follows State Route 37 (Sears Point Road) and State Route 121 (Arnold Drive) to Sonoma Raceway. Enjoy the ride and enjoy the show!

For more information about Progressive IMS Outdoors and to buy tickets, visit motorcycleshows.com.

Open Road to Progressive IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride Sonoma Raceway
Sonoma Raceway is located northern of San Pablo Bay.

The post Fort Bragg to Sonoma Raceway: IMS Outdoors Northern California Ride first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Two Buddies Tour the Rocky Mountains

A Dream Come True - Two Buddies Tour the Rocky Mountains Moto Guzzi Spirit of the Eagle Rideaway V85 TT
Kit (on left), Guy, and the Moto Guzzi V85 TTs in Kanisku National Forest, ready to take on the resplendent Rocky Mountains. (Photos by Guy Pickrell)

“You’ve got to enter this!” said my touring mate, Marco, when he called me about Moto Guzzi’s Spirit of the Eagle Rideaway competition.

Describe your dream tour, anywhere in the USA. Win the use of a V85 TT adventure bike for 14 days and a $2,500 travel budget.

I threw down a route. Start in Seattle, ride east to Glacier National Park, then follow the Rocky Mountains south through Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Flaming Gorge, Capitol Reef, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and finish in Las Vegas. Eight days, seven states, six national parks and monuments, 2,600 miles. Epic!

Click here for the REVER route shown above

When the Piaggio Group called me last August to tell me I had won, it didn’t leave much time to prep and hit the road to beat the cold weather in Glacier National Park. My buddy Kit agreed to join me, and Moto Guzzi generously offered us a second bike. The adventure/dual-sport market isn’t Guzzi’s typical realm, so when I read that the TT stands for tutto terreno (all-terrain), I figured the least we could do is put them through a genuine off-road test. Part of the budget went toward Michelin Anakee Wild tires; billed as 50/50 on-/off-road, they have a surprisingly aggressive tread pattern. At 500-plus pounds, the V85 TT is no dirt bike, but if adventure is your goal, sooner or later you’re going to find yourself off the beaten path, and that’s exactly where we planned to be.

Our Chariots Await

We flew to Seattle and first saw our V85 TTs parked outside at Optimum Performance Motorsports. Their styling reminded me of old Paris-Dakar bikes. I took the Adventure edition, sporty in bright red and white livery, with only a gesture of a windscreen. Kit took the Travel edition, with a sophisticated metallic sand color and a larger windscreen, auxiliary lights and heated grips. Both bikes were fitted with excellent panniers, and the Adventure also included a top box, which I removed to allow more room for my DrySpec soft bags. After a chat with Alan Kwang, the dealership owner, he handed us the keys and wished us well. It was surreal riding away on brand new bikes without having exchanged anything more than a conversation.

A Dash Across an Apocalyptic Plain

It was nearly noon by the time we packed everything on the bikes and rode east out of Seattle. U.S. Route 2 climbs into rugged, pine-strewn mountains and goes over Stevens Pass (4,061 feet) before descending along the floor of a dramatic, glacial valley. During a late lunch in Leavenworth, the smell of smoke reminded us there were wildfires still burning across Washington State. After crossing the Columbia River, a steep ascent took us out of the rocky canyon onto a vast, windswept plain. Rolling grassland swept off to the horizon in all directions. Huge areas, scorched black by the recent flames, were still smoldering. It was like riding through the wake of a recent battle. We raced across the plateau for 140 miles, and then descended into Spokane and made quick time to our hotel in Ponderay, Idaho.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Going-to-the-Sun Road provides panoramic views of the dramatic arêtes, cascading valleys and ribbon lakes that make up Glacier National Park.

Majestic Glacier National Park and Deer in the Headlights

Still refining the bike-packing process, we began the first of 440 miles much later than planned. Just shy of the Canadian border, Route 2 turns east near Bonners Ferry, into the dense fir and spruce forests of Montana. Entering Glacier National Park, crystal-clear Lake McDonald sweeps up the valley alongside Going-to-the-Sun Road, a narrow strip of asphalt (and an engineering marvel) carved into the side of a mountain range. Logan Pass (6,647 feet) offered awesome views, as sheer valleys tumbled down to the lakes below and knife-edged arêtes towered above us. The light was fading by the time we got on the deserted forest road to Missoula. Kit spotted a mule deer, her almond eyes reflecting brightly in the Travel’s auxiliary lights. She was the first of many, and it was 10 p.m. when we finally walked into the Missoula Club bar, famous for its burgers and beer.

The Glorious Mountain Roads of Montana

After refueling in Hamilton, we turned east into the Sapphire Mountains on a steep gravel track and climbed up to Skalkaho Pass (7,257 feet). It was our first off-road test for the bikes and tires, and we quickly found our confidence on the hard-packed gravel. Abundant torque served us well, especially in 2nd and 3rd gears. By afternoon, the towering canyons had relented to reveal panoramic views of the dramatic scenery. We swept up another pass, riding into Virginia City, a marvelous authentic gold-rush town established in 1863. Following the Madison River south from Ennis, we had a breathtaking sight as the setting sun lit up a colossal rift running along the western bank. Eventually, we made it to our hotel in the dark, tired and hungry, only to discover the nearest restaurant was eight miles away, in West Yellowstone.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Clouds of sulphur-smelling steam billow up from boiling pools along the road through Yellowstone.

Enchanting Yellowstone and Towering Grand Teton

As the sun came up, we brushed the ice off our seats and rode into Wyoming and Yellowstone National Park. We rode a clockwise loop around the park, passing steaming geysers, volcanic hot springs that belched scorching, sulfurous gas, and bison that grazed the roadside meadows, eventually coming upon enormous Yellowstone Lake. We made a quick stop at the amazing Old Faithful Inn, just as its namesake geyser erupted.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
The Tetons looming over Jackson Lake

The road exiting Yellowstone’s southern entrance runs along the edge of a sheer canyon, ending at Jackson Lake, where the Tetons, a series of three spectacular peaks, soar up from the western bank to over 13,500 feet like giant fossilized teeth. It was late afternoon when we stopped at Alpine to buy supplies. The Guzzis always drew a small crowd and a flurry of questions. I discovered our next leg, a 95-mile dirt track through Bridger-Teton National Forest, was only graded for the first 40. Undeterred (somewhat), we proceeded anyway and soon found an idyllic spot to make camp by the river.

Scarlet Sockeye and the Stunning Beauty of Flaming Gorge

After a chilly, restless night, we rejoined the track running along Greys River, a ribbon of blue and lush green framed by rocky bluffs. As predicted, the track became steep and challenging, but the V85 TTs’ suspension capably soaked up the abuse, while their V-twins churned out torque with a lovely, distinctive rumble. We savored awesome view after awesome view as our fifth day’s route took us out of Wyoming’s forested mountains and into the painted desert canyons of Utah.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Steaming in the early chill, bucolic Madison River flows into Yellowstone National Park

Desolate plateau roads delivered us to a series of tight corners cut into the red rock, descending hundreds of feet into Flaming Gorge. At the bottom, we stopped at Sheep Creek, where the shallow, limpid water was teeming with sockeye salmon. A series of thrilling sweepers and twisties climbed out of the gorge, providing a spectacular view of the sheer, banded cliffs of crimson and terracotta strata and the reservoir below. The plateau finally ended with a dramatic zig-zagging 3,000-foot descent to the town of Vernal, Utah. We used every electrical socket in the room to charge the crap out of everything — cameras, phones, drone — making the most of our last night in a hotel.

Ridge Riding on Top of the World and A Steer Standoff

After a dash across the vast Uinta Basin, we descended into Scofield (pop. 23), home to Snack & Pack, a quirky gas station where customers broil their own burgers. With us and the Guzzis refueled, we climbed into the mighty Manti-La Sal Mountains and onto Skyline Drive Scenic Backway, a rough unpaved road that follows a knife-edged ridge at over 10,000 feet, with sheer drops down both sides to the valleys below. I tried to focus on the riding, despite the arresting views at every turn. This was not a good place to screw up.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Skyline Drive can test the nerves, but at 10,000 feet the views are worth the effort

With one eye on the clock, we reluctantly turned off Skyline, riding down into the valley, where we found our route blocked by a herd of belligerent bovine. Stores are scarce in this remote part of Utah, and we were forced to ride 20 miles past our exit to buy supplies, starting the last leg as the sun began to set — a steep, 18-mile dirt track that provided plenty of butt-clenching moments in the dusk. We pitched our tents on patches of sand among boulders and stunted juniper. There was no moon, and when the last of the firewood burnt out, we could see the Milky Way painted across the night sky, with shades of purple, blue and red in an ocean of stars.

We Max Out the V85 TTs and Reluctantly Ride to Vegas

The morning sun blazed across the desert as we tore off down the rocky trail and into Cathedral Valley, where a group of distinctive striped mesas rise up from the plain like a village hewn from rock. Capitol Reef National Park is amazingly varied. Terracotta cliffs are the backdrop to white and yellow hoodoos, vivid green yuccas and gnarly juniper, as well as a formidable mix of sand-and-rubble tracks. Our pace had increased, and at times we asked more from the Guzzis than they were designed for, but what a ride! Inevitably, a deep sandy section proved too much of an ask, and I dumped my Adventure — scuza amore.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
The Milky Way, spanning the sky on a moonless night at our camp in Capitol Reef National Park’s Cathedral Valley

As we neared its end, the trail entered a dense line of trees and abruptly ended at the Fremont River. The fast running water was muddy, and Kit was the first to ford with little notion of depth and no idea what lay below. A breathtaking narrow road perched atop a meandering ridge separated by two yawning canyons delivered us to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Completely exhausted, we began looking for a campsite along Cottonwood Canyon Road. I found a ledge with a panoramic view across the valley. A series of sheer, striped ridges ran across the horizon, and towering above these, the giant mesa we had traversed all afternoon. We toasted our last night as the last of the sun’s rays set alight Escalante’s vivid strata. It had all gone so fast, and yet Seattle seemed like a lifetime ago. The view from my tent the following morning was worthy of its own trip.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Our last campsite, overlooking a majestic valley in Utah’s Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, was in itself worthy of riding 2,600 miles

On our final day, we thundered down a deserted, undulating track running along the floor of Cottonwood Canyon, a dust cloud in our wake and rocks pinging off the sump guards. With the road through Zion National Park closed, we had to take a southern loop through Arizona before starting the last, searing leg down to Las Vegas.

The Moto Guzzi V85 TT, È Tutto Terreno?

After riding hundreds of miles on dirt tracks, some seriously challenging, the V85 TT has convinced this skeptic that it will handle anything you can reasonably expect to throw at it. Overall build quality is excellent. Even with its handsomely sculpted 5.6-gallon tank full of gas, the V85’s center of gravity feels surprisingly low, and coupled with the Michelin Anakee Wild tires, inspired the kind of off-road confidence usually associated with lighter bikes. On the road, more midrange power would make fast overtaking maneuvers less of an exercise in physics, but otherwise, the V85 TT was a superb ride.

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
A new day in Cathedral Valley, and the most challenging terrain yet

Both Kit and I are over six feet tall, and I’d figured we’d be folded up like a couple of deckchairs, but with some huge miles undertaken, we appreciated the excellent ergonomics and supremely comfortable seat. In terms of range, comfort, durability and handling on- and off-road, the V85 TT is a credible contender at a competitive price, and the folks in Mandello del Lario deserve credit for also making it so very beautiful. We were reluctant to hand back the keys. Arrivederci bellissima! Thanks for the good times!

Two Buddies, Two Bikes, One Big Adventure
Thundering down the deserted Cottonwood Canyon Road in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

The post Two Buddies Tour the Rocky Mountains first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com