The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

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Day 12

The 5.30 am alarms has me thinking about the day ahead. It’s a day of mixed emotions as I’ve really missed my partner and family over the past twelve days, but today also brings an end to such a great motorcycle experience. The Tenere has been tested over a variety of terrain and conditions but today will be nearly a thousand kays of bitumen, including the Hay Plains.

I’m greeted by another brisk morning and remain thankful for my heated grips, money well spent. Today will be all about munching miles as I’d prefer not to be riding the last few hours home in darkness. Within an hour I’m refuelling at West Wyalong. I’ve always enjoyed stopping here on my travels as it has a great feel and I enjoy the murals painted on some of the business’s walls (apologies I didn’t take any photos).

From here it’s a 250+ kilometre stretch to Hay. The Hay Plains actually runs from Narrandera to Balranald, a total of just over 300 kilometres. I’ll be taking a different route entering Hay from West Wyalong, which is still a remote stretch of road.

The ride from West Wyalong to Rankins Springs isn’t as lifeless and boring as I expected, and the road offers a few curves and changes in scenery. I decide this is a good place to stop and refuel. To my surprise I see a have slight phone reception and decide it’s a good time for a Facebook Live to answer some questions I’ve received.

Off towards Hay and this is where to roads begin to straighten and the wide plains open up. In a strange way I’m actually enjoying the open plains, probably as I can relax and not worry about wildlife jumping into my front wheel. Riding conditions are perfect with temperatures in the early twenties, blue skies with large white clouds providing a touch of character.

My drone has been neglected over the past few days and this is the perfect opportunity to capture the vastness of the Australian Outback. In an ironic twist, even though there are mile nothing I have to search for a safe place to park off the road to be able to launch and fly my drone.

About 30 kays from Hay I find a large and wide entrance to a property with plenty of room to park the bike and launch the drone. Having only owned the drone for a couple of weeks I’m a novice, so I’m nervous when I first launch and the wind instantly catches the drone and pushed it a couple of metres off path. The drone quickly recovers, re-calibrates, and amazes me with its stability. It really is incredible the perspective the drone offers and I spend the next thirty minutes grabbing some footage, all centred around the bike of course.

I’ve stopped in Hay many times over the years and enjoy the experience. I’d love to stop for a pub lunch or at the local bakery, but I’m conscious of time and decide to grab fuel and food at the same stop. I visit one of the truck stops at western end of Hay and indulge in a coffee and some deep fried delights.

As motorcycle riders I think we are all accustomed to, and enjoy the questions whenever we stop. People always seem to have such an interest in motorcycles, perhaps it is simply the sense of adventure they evoke. “Run out of fuel before?”, “How’s the wind effect you?”, “Get good mileage?”, “Bet you’ve got a sore arse.”, “What happens if it rains.”, “I use to have a…”

There isn’t much to report during the next 400 km to Renmark. Accessories I’m thankful for during the long bitumen stretches? Music steaming through my in-helmet speakers, gel seat topper, Camelback for regular sips and my Zumo XT GPS to keep me updated on speed and distances. I settle into a routine of stop, fuel, snack, drink and continue.

Not far from the South Australian border the landscape changes again and lowering light reveals orange-red sand on the roads edge. My mind wanders to what the next adventure could be and my love for watching the Dakar has me dreaming of a Simpson Crossing. I stop for a photos opportunity to cast the illusion that I’m actually riding across red sand and then continue for the SA border.

A few minutes down the road and I stop at the familiar Yamba fruit fly inspection. There had been some recent Covid cases in Sydney and I was concerned this may impact my return home. The inspection officer approached me with a welcoming smile and asks about my motorcycle travels. I think to myself, ‘This is her sneaky of interrogating me.’

Not at all, she simply asks how my ride had been. She looked at my mountain of luggage and then a looks in my backpack for any fruit. She wishes me a safe trip home and off I ride.

I had slipped behind my schedule as the sun was setting and I still had just over two hours to home. I was feeling fine and the adrenaline of being on the home stretch kicked in. This did mean I’d have to ride the Blanchetown Flats in darkness and dodge Kangaroos.

I reflect on the past twelve days, why I did this, how it evolved, the highs and lows and what it means for me going forward. In short I’ve ridden over 500,000 km in 30 years, on over 40 different bikes. This was the most adventurous and challenging ride I’ve ever done. At a youthful fifty years of age I’ve stretched my comfort zone, improved my riding, and it felt bloody great.

I love that adventure riding covers such a broad spectrum. It can be exploring bitumen backroads, heading to outback locations or conquering the Valley of Doom. I love the interactions with people, the riders who share their experience and stories, and locals whom overwhelming welcome riders and show a genuine interest in our travels.

I arrive at Blanchetown for my last fuel stop of the trip. There’s more questions from friendly tourists passing through and a warning of kangaroos as I approach Accommodation Hill and Truro. The sun had now set and it would be up to my bug eyed Tenere’s high beam to spot any movement in the bushes.

The skies have been threatening with rain for the past couple of hours but luck had been on my side. Weather was still perfect for riding, although I’ve become soft and use my heated grips at every opportunity. I keep my speed to just below a hundred as the bushes closed in to the road edge. I’m not sure if the roos had been scared off by recent road trains or my eyes were tired, but I saw very few animals along this stretch.

Accommodation Hill is a long uphill stretch that leads you into Truro. Hot summer days regularly claims its collection of cars overheating with caravans and speed boats parked up on the side of the road. Tonight was a clear run into Truro, a town know for all the wrong reason to anyone my age.

Tanunda is an easy twenty-minute ride and I eagerly exit Sturt Highway at Nuriootpa as the Barossa Valley welcome me home. I’d phoned my partner to give her a rough ETA of 8 pm and as I pulled into the driveway the roller door was up and she was awaiting my arrival.

Rain had commenced falling just as I turned into the street and the arrival photo in the driveway looked far more dramatic that it really was. The only reason I was wet is because I posed for a photo.

Mission accomplished! Over six thousand kilometres, roughly four and half thousand solo in twelve days. It was encouraging to think at the age of 50 my riding adventures have just begun.

If you’ve ever considered buying an adventure bike and start exploring your own backyard or set off exploring Australia, then have a go. At the beginning of my article I mentioned two things I was missing; an adventure bike and the skills to do it.

It really doesn’t matter what adventure bike you own, $2,000 to $20,000, 250cc to 1200cc, they will all take you to amazing places.

Skills to ride them? You will be amazed how quickly your adventure and off-road riding skills will improve and the number of riders that will offer you tips, advice and coaching. As a side note upon my return I bought a six year old WR250 to practise some sand riding with the aim of Simpson Crossing in 2022.

A third point you’ll no doubt be asking is, “Where do I ride these things?” Online groups like Facebook are an incredible resource. Either join a local area group like South Australia Adventure Bike Riders (if you live in SA), or motorcycle specific groups (in my case Tenere 700). Riders will gladly offer up their favourite tracks and be keen to join you on the ride.

“So aren’t you going to tell us your thoughts about the Tenere Mark?” I hear you ask. I’ll spoil the ending now; it’s simply the best bike I’ve ever owned. The V-Strom 1000 is collecting dust, and my WR250R will be for specific sand rides.

1. It is just the perfect bike for me, and I’ll quickly share my reasons why.
2. I’m mechanically challenged, so bulletproof reliability is critical.
3. Less electronic rider aids mean less to go wrong – the Tenere 700 only has ABS.
4. At 6ft and 110 kg the ergonomics suit me.
5. It has the power to overtake road trains and comfort for the open highway but is also light and manageable for someone of my limited skills to defeat the Valley of Doom.
6. I love the Dakar Rally styling.

Of course, that doesn’t mean it’s the perfect bike for you, far from it. Consider your budget, abilities, size and most importantly which bike gets your blood pumping.

If you’ve got this far you’re either an Adventure rider or considering having a go. As Nike say, “Just do it.”

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Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

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Day 11

A solid night’s sleep had me feeling refreshed and my decision to investigate a more scenic route on the way home had me inspired. The heated grips were immediately activated as I waved goodbye to the King Kong sized Koala. I couldn’t wait to get to Jerrys Plains to commence the reverse Bylong Highway ride.

I merge onto the Pacific Highway and use the helmet time to consider options once I arrive at Mudgee. I picture the Aussie map in my head and realise Bathurst must be just south of Mudgee. It would be un-Australian to be that close to Mt Panorama and not do a lap.

I arrive at Jerrys Plains to fuel up, walk inside and there’s a deep fried chicken schnitzel staring at me from through the glass. 9 am is probably too early for this delicacy, but on the plus side I know it couldn’t have been sitting there too long. I munch down my high protein snack and start my GoPro for some footage of the Bylong Highway.

It doesn’t matter which direction you ride of this section, it’s a great ride. As I pass through the flat farmland section, I see the hills ahead of me and know the entertaining curves aren’t far away. At the base of the hills is a red warning sign with a motorcycle logo and intertwining lines and the words ‘Reduce Speed.’ Who doesn’t smile when they see this?

The road conditions are similar to when I rode through a few days earlier, slightly damp from recent rain. I’m no boy racer, but I enjoy the curves and ride at what I’d best call a spirited pace. The bike feels a little squirrely, nothing concerning, but just enough for me to throttle back slightly.

I put it down to the fact the roads are probably wetter than when I previously came through a few days earlier. As you are reading this you are no doubt shaking your head at me, yep, this time I’m on off road tyres, not 50/50 tyres. Those that know the Pirelli STR and the Rally know there is a massive difference in the front tyres, so it’s a huge credit to the Rally tyres that I was feeling as confident as I did.

The rear Motoz RallZ was feeling pretty good too, but of course my mind takes over now that I realise I’m on dirt tyres and I reduce my pace.

Before I know it I’m only a few kilometres out of Mudgee. This is why I chose the scenic route, the kays seem to pass so much quicker when the ride is entertaining. I decide to stop for an early McLunch to catch up on social media and plan the rest of the days ride.

I message Jeff from DMK as this is his town and if anyone knows some great backroads, he will. Jeff and Alanah are celebrating the birth of Lilah only a few days earlier, so I’m hoping he won’t mind me bothering him.

Jeff gets back to me in a few minutes and suggests the road to Hill End. A quick look on Google Maps shows the road leads south towards Bathurst and has more twists than a pretzel factory. ‘Perfect, thanks Jeff,’ I reply and throw back the last mouthful of coffee and head out to the bike.

It’s only a few kays out of Mudgee before the GPS has me turning left towards Hargraves and Hill End. The smiles begin again as the road conditions change as does the scenery. Just north of Hill End a historic marker points to Valentines Mine. I’m conscious I need to be back in the Barossa by tomorrow night, but how can I ride past a gold mine?

The dirt track is deeply rutted and could easily swallow the Tenere’s front wheel. The track only goes for a kilometres or so and comes to a dead end at the abandoned mine and pumping tower. I love reading historic signs, and this story is a familiar one.

Small gold find quickly followed by a booming hive of activity and riches, then just as quickly the bust as the cost of removing flooding water exceeds the gold that is recovered.

Bathurst is calling and I’m excited to do a lap or two of Mt Panorama on my T7. The road from Hill End to Bathurst is just sensational with a great section of steep hill climbs and descents. The dry roads inspire confidence and the grunty Tenere engine loves pulling out of corners and up any inclines. You have to give it to modern day off road tyres, they are performing much better than I expected on the tar.

As soon as I enter Bathurst the signs point toward the mountain, but I resist the urge as I want to give the bike a quick wash before the upcoming trackside photos.

Fuel, quick drink and $4 at the car wash and I’m on my way to the circuit. If you ‘ve never done a lap of the mountain, it is an absolute must do. It’s only then you have some small appreciation of how skilled the drivers are, especially across the top of the mountain and Skyline.

I turn onto the main straight and start looking for places to stop and take photos. A series of ‘No Stopping’ signs are posted around the majority of the circuit so it means being creative to try to grab an Instagram worth photo. Any thoughts of being heavy with the right grip are quickly tempered by the 60 km/h speed signs around the circuit.

The first lap didn’t reveal any great photo opportunities and I decide to line up with the other cars taking a photos on the main straight. I take a few pics, but I’m not happy with any and head off on a second lap to see how creative I can be. I notice a parking area as you approach the dippers and manoeuvre the bike so the low sun hits my new graphics. Satisfied with my photos I post one to my OzBatts Adventures Facebook page and head off towards my next stop, Cowra.

Just over an hour and I arrive in Cowra. The town is steeped in history as the site of the World War II breakout from the Japanese POW camp. 231 Japanese prisoners and four Australian guards died during the breakout. I wanted to stop and visit the memorials and learn more about this part of Australia’s history but the sun was setting and I wanted to ride further tonight.

A quick splash of fuel at a Cowra servo and another familiar sign on the door, ‘Urgent – Staff Wanted.’ This has been a theme for retail and hospitality throughout my trip so far, businesses are struggling to find staff to fill essential jobs.

As I leave Cowra the amount of riding tonight will depend on two factors; how fatigued I feel and if there are trees close to the road edges hiding wildlife. I’m feeling quite refreshed and enjoying the setting sun. So impressive is the sunset I find myself stopping several times in an attempt to capture that perfect bike photo.

As the sun ducks below the horizon I notice a few of the locals hopping through paddocks and am reminded about the dangers of wildlife. Grenfell is only fifteen minutes away and trees begin to close in and I’m concerned I wont see skippy if he’s feeding by the edge of the road. I decide that Grenfell will be tonight’s final stop and I look for any motels displaying a vacancy sign.

Grenfell is only a small town with a population just over two thousand and therefor offers limited accommodation. I find a motel in the main street and my lucky steak continues as they have one room left. At reception the mature lady at the counter greets me with, “Don’t let the cat out!”.

I glance down to see her furry friend that makes Garfield look petite. She ends up being quite friendly (the lady, not the cat) and we discuss the downturn that Grenfell has experienced over the past few twelve months. She tells me that since COVID hit six businesses in town have closed down, but she is hopeful that recent tourism will help the town bounce back.

I unload the bike, grab a burger from the only open takeaway and settle into my room for the night. I open my Facebook and see a list of notifications which include questions about the trip, the Tenere, accessories and of course tyres. I was surprised the most popular photo was from Mt Panorama as I wasn’t 100 per cent happy with the composition, but it is such an iconic race circuit.

Reality sets in that I have only one day left and have 980 kilometres to travel. Decision made, it will be the Hay Plains and bitumen the entire way home.

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Day 11: 660 total km. Highlight – Couple of laps around Mt Panorama. Must do – Ask locals or Facebook groups for scenic options.

Stay tuned for day 12..

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

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Day 10

I woke early, excited about the final day of the rally and decided it was a good opportunity to give the T7 a quick bath. After a visit to the local car wash I headed back for the complimentary continental breakfast and my final chance to catch up with all the riders prior to departure.

The RideADV team thanked everyone for attending the rally and emphasised safety for the final day – let’s not get too carried away as we head towards the finish line. I’d come to learn that ‘offs’ and dropping a 200 kg adventure bike was going to happen and was simply part of riding large dirt bikes.

Day One of the rally I was devastated to drop my pride and joy, but the monkey was off my back and I was learning the differences between road bikes and dirt/adventure bikes.

Today’s ride was to take us through Loomberah, Bowling Alley Point, Hanging Rock state forest, Nowendoc, Cooplacurripa, Tapin tops, Mooral Creek, Upper Lansdowne and Bago before finishing where it all began at Wauchope.

Greg sent us on our way and I was excited to head towards the forest early in the day. As the first bike was about to depart Greg yells out to hold all riders as an important message had just come through from the zero riders. We gather around for the impromptu briefing. “There’s heavy fog, almost zero visibility in the forest and the wildlife is horrific,” Greg explains. Sounds like an awesome adventure to me.

We turn right out of the hotel with my eyes fixated on the GPS to see how soon until we deviate off the main road. Greg and the team don’t disappoint and within minutes we turn left and start to climb towards the awaiting forest. I’m amazed how quickly the roads change transforming from wide straight bitumen to dirt roads that begin to weave and ascend into the forest.

Once again I’m thankful for my heated grips as temperature hover in the single digits. The warning of heavy fog was accurate as a thick soup like mist clung to pine trees and blanketed our entire surroundings. Deep into the forest and my speed drops to below 40 km/h as visibility decreases. At one point a fellow rider pulls up beside me and shrugs his shoulders and we both laugh at the conditions.

It’s one of those times on the rally when I feel I need to pinch myself, I really can’t believe I’m here in this mystical forest on my Tenere. The ride through the forest is amazing and time passes so fast as we head towards our only fuel stop at Nowendoc.

The group is spread out during the morning and as I pull into our fuel stop there are a dozen or so bikes queued up at the single bowser. This is also our only chance for food during the day so I grab a egg and bacon sandwich plus a bag of strawberry cream lollies for later in the day.

I’ve been posting a few photos to Facebook during the rally and had even created my own Facebook page, OzBatts Adventures. I thought it was a great time to do a Facebook Live and chat with a few of the riders on camera. The guys were happy to jump in front of the camera and a highlight was one of the riders’ kids at work watching live and thrilled to see Dad.

The fog had now cleared as we exited the forest and head towards some open roads. What else can they dish up on the rally? What can we see that we haven’t already explored? If I enjoyed the ‘Australian Safari’ feel from yesterdays ride, this was next level. As I come over a rise and cattle grid the view is spectacular with seemingly endless rolling hills with a single dirt track threading it’s way through them.

For the next hour or so you can’t smack the grin from my face. I take the opportunity to stop and take some scenic photos and some of riders as they pass and gain some air over cattle grids. I’d love to send the drone up, but it’s realistically twenty minutes by the time you pack up and set off again.

My Facebook live and several photo stops had placed me at the back of the pack and it wouldn’t be long and the sweep riders would be catching me. I don’t want to get on the wrong side of Abbey the sweep rider, and she doesn’t want to get stuck behind ‘Batts the slow rider’.

I jump back on my trusty T7, I twist the throttle and slip back into my Dakar fantasy. The GPS guides me over the blanket of hills which eventually begin to flatten. A few more twisties are thrown in and I’m really enjoying the variety and challenges.

As I approach a left turn I see a Tenere parked on the corner and I don’t immediately see the rider. As I turn left I see a rise which is immediately followed by a sweeping left. Two more bikes are parked up and I see all three riders. It’s obvious there’s been a coming together of bikes and one of the guys is holding his hand and another is sitting on an embankment looking pale. Abbey arrives just behind me, and we both check out the riders and make sure everyone is okay.

Abbey radios Greg who rides back to assess the situation. In a safety-first approach it’s decided two of the riders will return in the back up vehicle to be checked out and their bikes placed on the trailer. As the sweep riders will be helping with loading bikes, Greg decides that the third rider and I will ride with him via a shorter route back to Wauchope. It’s times like this you really appreciate the value of riding with a professional group and having access to communication and a backup vehicle.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t overly disappointed to miss the last portion of the days ride. Reports came through from the zero riders that they were encountering wet, greasy clay tracks – and we know how much I love clay.

The ride back to Wauchope gave me a chance to reflect on the past four days. Prior to departing the Barossa I was incredibly nervous about the rally and if it was beyond my abilities. After two crashes and feeling like the walking wounded on the morning of day one I was convinced it was beyond my abilities.

From the lows of certain defeat I experienced the adrenaline rush of conquering the Valley of Doom. Then day two, three and four dished up a variety of roads, conditions and scenery I wouldn’t have thought was possible in such a short time frame. All I could think about was when could I do this again.

As I ride into the Wauchope showgrounds only the first few riders have completed the rally and are collecting their luggage from the Monster Merc.

I chat with a few of the riders, grab my gear and load up the T7 in readiness for the 1800 km trip home. Once packed I seek out the RideADV team and thank them for hosting such an amazing event. I know the term ‘life changing’ gets thrown around a lot, but I now believe I’m an adventure rider and this is something I’ll do for many years to come.

Greg Yager is busy coordinating the conclusion of the rally so I briefly thank him for not only running the event, but for encouraging me over the previous few weeks to ride across from Adelaide.

Keeping consistent with my trip so far, I had no fixed plans or accommodation booked for the ride home. It was now about four pm on Wednesday, and I have to be back in the Barossa Valley sometime on Friday night, 1,687 kms if I take the shortest possible bitumen route.

If I’m going to ride at night then its safest on highways and not kangaroos infested back roads. I set myself a goal of five hours riding ending up somewhere south of Sydney.

It’s perfect riding weather as I merge into the Pacific Highway traffic and begin the long bitumen run. After about thirty minutes of riding I feel a wave of fatigue and decide it’s a good time to fuel up and grab a coffee, Red Bull or both. Refuelled and recharged lets try this again. I accelerate and merge onto the Pacific Highway ready to dodge whatever Sydney traffic throws at me.

It appears the past ten days has caught up with me and the long black coffee is having little effect. My eyes are heavy and my focus is waning, neither ideal when riding in traffic. Next exit is only a few minutes up the highway and I stop again to take a stretch and reconsider my plan.

I decide to stop at the nearest motel and plan out an alternative route back to South Australia. A quick google search shows Bulahdelah only fifteen minutes away so I call a budget priced Motel and book myself a room.

Bulahdelah is only a few minutes off the highway and I’m looking forward to checking in to Mountain View Motel which should at least provide a good photo opportunity. Okay, there wasn’t any great mountain view from the motel but it was photo worthy with a giant Koala statue out the front.

If you seek a motel with character this one is or you. Large framed mid century wall art, which are actually massive jigsaw puzzles, original retro blue knitted cushions and a dusty pink and blue tiled bathroom.

I lay back with my GPS and start to consider my options for the ride home. One thing has become very clear since I’ve left Wauchope, I can’t ride on highways for the next two days and I’m going to need to add some fun to the ride. Remember how much I loved the Bylong Highway? Well that has to be my first priority, so off to Mudgee tomorrow.

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Day 10: 480 total km. Highlight – Weaving through the hills east of Nowendoc. Must do – Stop riding when tired. Fatigue kills.

Stay tuned for Day 11….

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

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Day 9

Day three of the rally sees us heading towards Tamworth via towns I’ve never heard of like Elsmore, Inverell, Oakwood, Delungra, Bungarra, Lower Horton, Burraba, Manilla and Halls Creek.

The GPS immediately goes to work routing us through some great roads. The route sends us through the main street of Delungra, a typical looking small country town with a population of around 650. What isn’t typical was a bright pink Rock and Roll Diner food truck on the side of the road.

The diner looked like the Dagwood Dog or Fairy Floss vans you see at yearly royal shows, except way cooler. I had to stop and meet the owners who were setting up for the day’s business. I chatted with Leanne and John about their business, and they shared the struggles they had faced with cancelled shows due to COVID.

I love marketing and anything that has a bit of wow factor and their business has it in truck loads. Unfortunately, I had to cut the visit short with a quick coffee, mini muffin and few photos.

Just outside of Delungra the GPS guides me towards dirt tracks and some open plains. I approach a series of farm gates and the fun of taking turns in closing and opening gates as riders begin to leap frog each other. The bike is feeling great, I’m growing in confidence, and the scenery continues to impress and amaze me.

The next few hours were some of my favourite of the trip. Blasting across open farmland through a combination of twin tracks and dirt trails. It felt like I was riding in the Australian Safari and at some level living out my youthful dreams.

The contrast to day one is incredible, and I’m absolutely loving the challenge of the ride. Everyone can ride at their own pace, mine slower than others but to me it’s an absolute blast. Its proof to anyone that wants to enter their first adventure rally, should just do it.

I catch up with a couple of riders and enjoy the next hour or so riding side by side, launching over cattle grids and blasting across the open plains. We even enjoyed some river crossings, one of which had a long moss covered concrete causeway. One unnamed rider attempted some on-bike yoga during the crossing in an attempt to keep their feet dry, and let say this didn’t end well. This person may have won an award which involved carrying the RideADV mascot, a stuffed wombat.

I’d forgotten that Tamworth was more than a small country town and was surprised by the amount of traffic. We navigated through what felt like peak hour and arrived at the motel where the crew and majority of riders were staying.

The Mercedes Monster Truck is again awaiting our arrival, so I collect my gear and check into my room for a well earned shower. As I reflect on the day it dawns on me that tomorrow is the last day of the rally. You’d think ten days on the road would be enough, but I wasn’t ready for the rally to finish.

Tonight was going to be our last night together for dinner, and we meet at a pre-arranged pub. Such a diverse group of riders of all ages, from just about every walk of life and we all shared a passion for the mighty Tenere 700 and of course adventure riding.

I even reached out to a good friend of mine Mark Willis, whom I hadn’t seen for decade or more, but remembered he was a resident of Tamworth. Mark messaged me back that he was up for beer and would meet me and the guys at the pub.

Let’s just say Mark is a handy rider, winning a Australian Supermoto Championship and also racing against the likes of Mick Doohan in the 500cc World Championship. Mark also offered a few tips on how to improve my adventure riding.

All too soon the night came to an end and we headed back to our rooms prior to final day of the rally. How can they possibly match the challenge and scenery of the past three days?

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Day 9: 440 Total km. Highlight – Feeling like I was riding the Australian Safari. Must do – Call in and say G’day to Leanne and John at the Delungra Rock and Roll Diner.

Stay tuned for day 10…

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

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Day 8

I wake to day two of the rally with mixed emotions. I feel bruised and battered, but also encouraged by conquering the ‘Valley of Doom.’ I pack the T7 and head off for a quick breakfast and to the briefing to hear what today has in store for us.

Greg provides a brief outline of the day ahead and reminds us that the zero riders have place red caution flags out for a reason, if we see them slow down. The day will see us head towards Nana Glen, Nymboida, Old Grafton Road, Deep Water and finishing at the Glenn Innes Showgrounds. Several of the riders had mentioned the Old Grafton Road to me and I was excited to see what lay ahead.

Sunshine was a welcomed sight and provided confidence that the roads would offer more grip than yesterday’s wet clay. I was also armed with more knowledge from Mr Gall, “Use your front brakes more, with those tyres you’ll be surprised how much stopping power you have.”

I collected my GPS, fitted it to my Touratech mount and rolled out with the group. I’m not sure how he does it, but Greg’s GPS route has us weaving our way off main roads in no time, and we begin exploring scenic back roads.

Today was a better match for my skill set. Don’t get me wrong I’m not trying to keep up with the fast guys, but I’m loving the adventure and exploration. We splash through several creek crossings and stop to take a few photos. This was exactly why I wanted an adventure bike.

If you’ve never ridden Old Grafton Road it’s an absolute must. Snaking along the rivers edge on dirt roads which vary from well graded to rutted and rocky. You’ll probably get sick of hearing me say how scenic each day was, but I’d ride back to just to do this road again.

The road opens up at one point and my speed begins to increase as I’m standing on the pegs and feeling increasingly more confident on the bike.

I see one of our zero riders red flags ahead and slow down accordingly. I can’t see anything sinister as it appears to be a simply concrete causeway. As I approach I can see why the flag, the dirt has been washed away from the leading edge of the concrete leaving an exposed concrete edge. I brake, then lift the front wheel and easily navigate the obstacle.

If I’d hit this at my previous speed the outcome could have been horrible. Later that night I receive a message from someone who’d ridden this route a few weeks earlier and asked about this exact obstacle. I let them know that it had been flagged as a hazard by our tour group. Unfortunately they hadn’t been as lucky and crashed resulting in some wrist injuries. Tick for joining an organised ride like RideADV.

Next landmark is Dalmorton Tunnel built in the late 1800’s, where a group of T7 riders are gathered for break and photo opportunity.

Just when I thought the days riding couldn’t get any better we begin to climb and descend through some incredible farm country. One particular section is two wheeled tracks as far as the eye can see disappearing up into the mountains. If there was an adventure motorcycle heaven, I was there.

The tracks meandered through a series of farm gates and we were all conscious to leave any gate as we found them. All too soon road signs start to count down the distance to Glen Innes, and I really don’t want this day’s riding to end.

We meet up at the Glen Innes Showground to hand in our GPS ready for the RideADV team to load tomorrow’s adventure. Another great pub meal with everyone sharing stories about the day’s adventure. What a difference a day makes, as I now feel I belong on the rally and I’m thoroughly enjoying the camaraderie of like minded adventure riders.

Best part of the day, I didn’t crash!

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Day 8: 350 total km. Highlight – Old Grafton Road. Must do – Book into an organised ride, you’ll explore countryside you never knew existed.

Stay tuned for day nine….

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts

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Day 7

Nervous excitement and the sound of rain led to a broken sleep. I’d been warned that the surrounding clay roads could become challenging when wet, hence the nerves. Today was going to be a riding day I’d never forget.

On the bike and off to our briefing for Day One. Greg had suggested a buddy system and matched us up with other riders. We also had our pre-loaded GPS to guide us plus sweep riders, so I felt reassured. Greg and the team conducted a clear and concise briefing and he probably felt like he was holding back wild stallions as riders were brimming with enthusiasm to get underway. Me, I was happy to ride at the back of the pack and learn as I went.

I followed Chris my riding buddy and we probably left about mid pack. Within minutes our GPS was leading us through secondary road which was an easy introduction to the Rally.

I was intermittently activating my chin mounted GoPro and providing my own commentary, which I think was my way of dealing with my nerves. First stop was scheduled to be at the Pub With No Beer at Taylors Arms, but that seemed a long way off.

As we hit dirt my lack of off road skills become glaringly obvious as riders overtook me with ease and looked very comfortable in doing so. The road conditions deteriorated and felt greasy under foot. I grow in confidence whenever I bounce over a tree root or splash through a water filled clay pool.

My excitement quickly changes as I approach a series of rutted wheel tracks filled with water. Even rewatching my GoPro footage I don’t know what happened, but my front wheel washed out in the clay as I slid down through the mud pit.

I’d just dumped by $18,000 motorcycle and was instantly panicking about any damage. Pride kicked in and I wanted to pick the bike up before anyone saw her laying in a mud bath. Rather than inspect for damage, I decided to jump straight back on the horse and asses any damage later.

As I continued along the challenging slippery roads, I was relieved I’d invested in my boots. Other than a bruised knee and smack to my confidence I felt okay. My fall had me drop back through the pack, but I had the reassurance of the sweep riders at the back of the field.

I try to refocus, shrug off my fall and reel in the pack ahead of me. The clay roads become even rutted as our GPS twists and snakes us towards lunch. As I round a slow corner, I see the road rise steeply ahead.

The trail cambers off sharply both sides, so clearly the trick is to stay in the centre of the track and avoid slipping into the deep dirt gutters on either side. Like a moth to the flame, the more I tell myself to avoid the deep gutter, the more my bike drifts to the left until a crash into the embankment.

Fall number two. This time I’m wedged between the bike and the embankment with my left leg caught under the bike. I can’t see my ankle but I know its caught in my Rotopax and hyper extended. I try to lift the bike whilst laying underneath it but I’m worried if I do the bike will roll back down hill further extending my trapped ankle.

I decide its worth the risk and manage to lift the bike enough to free my ankle and stand up. Nothing appears sprained or broken, however my knee and ankle are in pain and I’m hobbling as I attempt to lift the Tenere.

My confidence is completely smashed. I don’t know the extent of damage to the bike but I’ve hurt my knee and ankle, and I’m out of my depth. This is harder than anything I’ve ever done on a motorcycle.

Rooster riding sweep catches up with me, checks I’m okay and leads me through to the lunch break.
As I arrive at the Pub With No Beer I feel like I’m doing the walk of shame. Dead last, covered in mud and hobbling. Greg wanders over to check on me, I admit to a couple of falls, to which he seems un-phased and offers a few words of encouragement.

I inspect the bike for damage fearing the worst but can’t believe the only sign of falls is a slight scuff to my left Barkbuster. Whilst I try my best to project my typically bubbly and positive personality, quitting the rally seems a real option.

I head up to lunch in what will be the turning point of the rally for me. As luck would have it I’m sharing a table with Stephen Gall and Alan Roe, a former Finke Desert race winner. One of my favourite sayings in life is, “If you are the smartest person in the room, you’re in the wrong room.” By that logic I was at the right table. These guys were amazing and it was clear they both have a real passion for coaching and helping riders.

Two key pieces advice I was going to implement immediately were from Alan – run a gear higher to smooth out my dirt riding, and Stephen – 90 per cent of the time twisting the throttle will save you.

Advice from the guys and a warm meal had settled my nerves slightly, but I was far from confident I’d make it to the end of the rally. The heavens open and riders run to their bikes to collect their gear. Shortly after this Greg calls us to muster a nearby shed for an unscheduled briefing.

The “zero riders” whom head out early to sweep the road ahead have radioed in with bad news. The constant rain has made the tracks impassable, not only the special stage, but also the standard route. Any confidence I’d gained over lunch quickly dissipated.

Our Trail Boss (Greg) had a solution for us. It seems he knows these parts of the world pretty well and is confident he can come up with an adventurous route and use a corner man system to guide us through.

A slight break in the weather has us heading for our bikes and off we go, keeping an eye out for riders at corners directing us on our new route. As we leave the bitumen the dirt roads rapidly deteriorate and we climb, descend and climb again through the valley somewhere near Belligen.

The roads are a combination of rock, clay, grit and covered with a layer of leaf mulch making them incredibly slippery. I’ve never concentrated so much in my life on two wheels, and suddenly realise these conditions are far more changing than prior to lunch where I crashed twice.

We take a break after an hour or so and once I stop and look around the scenery if simply breath-taking. It’s like we have been teleported to a tropical rain forest surrounded by luscious ferns and cloaked in a blanket of mist on top of the world.

As we continue the road begin to descend with what seems like an endless run of down hill tight turns. Somehow I’ve kept the bike upright so far and think of nothing but the next corner. I tight right corner leads to a steep downhill run and I come across the group stopped in a pack in the middle of this wet, muddy leafy track.

Word spreads that there is a tree across the track and the crew is working hard to remove it. Several of us wander down to investigate and see that the tree is only part of the issue. There is a creek crossing about knee deep immediately followed by a deep muddy hill climb. Riders more skilled than me start to express doubts about making the climb, so obviously I’m quietly panicking.

Greg decides before any bikes attempt the climb we need to ensure our support ute can get through. After about fifteen minutes and a dozen or so guys helping push, the ute makes the climb to a loud cheer. Now for the bikes.
Single file bikes attempt the creek crossing and climb, with guys standing either side of the hill to assist anyone who gets into trouble. Most riders scramble or fishtail up the climb with the occasional rider needing assistance from the sidelines.

My immediate thoughts are, “Who can ride my bike up for me and I’ll just walk.”

I talk myself into have a crack at it, after all what do I have to lose as I’ve already crashed twice. If I’m doing this I’m not going to be last, so I line up leaving only three or four riders behind me.

I waddle the big Tenere into the creek where one of the crew has been standing to help riders through. I look up and see the challenge ahead and can’t believe I’m even attempting this. I hear Stephen Galls words ringing in my ears, “Just twist the throttle and go”. At that exact moment the crew member next to me yells in my ear, “Go, go go!!”

I really don’t recall what happened next, but I made it straight through the creek and up the hill. The video of the climb reveals my deafening squeal of excitement as I couldn’t believe I’d made it.

This had been the most challenging and most rewarding day I’ve ever had on a motorcycle. I’d gone from the verge of quitting to complete jubilation. I honestly don’t remember the rest of the ride to Coffs Harbour. I can’t explain the feeling of euphoria in facing my fears and succeeding, but it was awesome.

We arrived in Coffs at the resort where the crew was staying to collect our gear from the Mercedes monster truck. As I hadn’t booked ahead I was staying at a neighbouring resort so I headed off to enjoy a shower, get changed and then back for dinner with the group.

Back in the room I gingerly removed my left boot to survey any damage to my left ankle. Other than some swelling and limitation in movement I had survived my crashes. I have no doubt that without these boots my left ankle and/or lower leg would have likely been broken.

Suddenly $550 sounds like a bargain compared to hospital cost, booking a flight home, paying to freight my bike and forfeiting the rest of the rally. I’ll never ride off road again without proper boots – thanks Greg.

I returned to meet the riders for dinner with some good-hearted ribbing of my excited squealing earlier in the day. My confidence started to slowly return not only succeeding but hearing from other riders that they found it extremely challenging too and was harder than any other day they’ve had on a rally. To confirm this Greg Yager even named the infamous climb the ‘Valley of Doom’ and voiced his pleasure that the group had conquered such a challenge.

After sharing a few stories and laughs I headed back to my room for a well-earned rest. What will day two of the rally bring?

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Day 7: 310 total km. Highlight – Valley of Doom. Must do – Pub with No Beer.

Stay tuned for Day 8 of Mark’s trip…

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts

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Day 6

It was a long night of cursing myself for forgetting my mattress and I accumulated maybe four hours sleep, but that wasn’t going to curb the day’s excitement.

First job was to head off to RSM motorcycles to have new shoes fitted to the T7. Tyres seem to be in short supply and they had managed to source me a Motoz RallZ for the rear, and Greg Yager brought up a Pirelli Rally for the front.

I was impressed with the great service at RSM. I was offered a free coffee voucher for a local coffee shop, and the use of their demo Kawasaki Z1000 to get there – awesome! Good marketing? I had several people walk up to me at the coffee shop and enquire about the bike, well done RSM.

Upon returning to RSM I thought I’d have a look at their motocross boot selection, something I’d never owned before. Greg and Abbey had made it clear in no uncertain terms that the road riding boots I arrived in would offer little lower leg protection. The young and very skilled salesman showed me a pair of Gaerne Boots, excitedly declaring he had my size in stock and how lucky I was.

I tried them on and was convinced there is no way I could ride a motorcycle whilst wearing these medieval torture clamps. Did I mention the young lad was a good salesman? He said all the right things, “They’ll loosen up”, “They’ll last ya ten years”, “You can’t put a price on safety” etc,, etc. A quick call the Greg and he kept it simple, “Just buy ‘em.”

I relented and said to the salesman, “Okay, sold,” to which he quickly replies, “Just letting you know they aren’t cheap.” Foolishly I had seen the price on the box of a different pair of boots, $199, which seemed fair for boots. When he muttered the words, “Five – ninety – nine”, I felt air leave my lungs and my hand quickly retracted from my wallet. Once I regained consciousness, I justified the expense in my head and haggled for a better price, $550. This proved to be my best purchase of the trip, more on this later.

On the way back to the showgrounds I managed to talk my way into a booked out motel, I was so excited, no sleeping on the ground for me tonight.

It was great to meet the incoming Tenere riders, hear their stories and see how they had customised their bikes. Several riders asked about my ride so far as they had seen photos on various Facebook groups.

I’d heard the name Stephen Gall mentioned a few times by the RideADV crew, a motocross legend being five-time Australian Champion. He would be participating in the Rally as Yamaha’s ambassador and there was excitement about his arrival. I’m embarrassed to say coming from a road riding background, I’d never heard the name, but was looking forward to meeting him.

Bikes rolled in throughout the day and the RideADV team were busy at check-in with registration, collection of rider’s GPS, determining if rider were standard or advanced routes and scrutineering of bikes.

We were meeting at a local club for a welcome dinner this evening, so I headed back to my motel room to check in and prepare for dinner. It was a huge relief that we were fully supported for the rally with a massive Mercedes truck that looked like it just rolled out of Dakar, carrying our gear.

Dinner was included as part of our registration, so needless to say there was 100 per cent attendance. It was a great social night meeting riders and of course Greg provided the official welcome offering an insight of what to expect over the next four days.

There were several prizes awarded, one being “Longest Travelled” to the rally. I was quietly confident my two thousand plus kilometre trip had me as the front runner winning maybe a cap, RideADV T-shirt or set of steak knives. I was shocked when Greg announced Teknics had donated a Stage One suspension kit – wow! Cheers guys, I can’t wait to send my suspension off for the upgrade.

We all left the club early knowing tomorrow would be a big day. I was still full of excitement on one hand, but also terrified that I was out of my depth. Too late now Mark, suck it up and get ready!

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Day 6: Total km – Maybe 10? Highlight – Meeting the Tenere riders. Must do – A group ride to meet other riders.

Stay tuned for day seven..

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts

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Day 5

After a long night with little sleep it was time to load the bike up and head to a pressure washer to clean the bike and be at DMK by 7:30 am. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning and can’t wait for my new graphics to be fitted.

I’m ahead of schedule, the Tenere is kind of clean, so time for a quick McBreakfast before heading over the DMK. I meet Jeff’s right hand man Wayne and no doubt bore him with my excitement of having the graphics fitted. He shows me the graphics laid out on the cutting table and I ‘Ooooh’ and ‘Ahhhhh’ over the design.

I position the bike for the obligatory before photo and let Wayne go to work preparing the bike for her new clothes. After thirty minutes or so, it dawns on me that he probably isn’t enjoying me watching every move and suggest I head over to McDonalds for a coffee. Very politely Wayne replies that’s a good idea and to come back in an hour or so.

Back to McDonalds and time to reply to some of my Facebook comments and questions which motivates me to improve the documenting of my trip, especially the GoPro component which has been inconsistent at best.

Two hours pass quickly and I head over to see Wayne and my ‘Dakar’ themed Tenere. ‘Wow’ is my initial response and I immediately start taking photos of the finished product. Great job guys, the attention to detail and installation was awesome.

Where has the day gone? Wauchope is calling and I want to be there before dark if possible. Jeff had suggested I take the Bylong Road, and after a few stubborn conversations with my ZUMO XT GPS off we head. Leaving town I keep looking down at the tank like a kid admiring his new toy. I’m sure you could see my grin through my helmet.

Speaking of grins, the road through the Bylong Valley towards Jerrys Plains is an absolute ripper. The perfect combination of bitumen twisties lowering you into the valley floor, then climbing out of the valley through curves that bring a wide smile to any rider. I saw several road bikes in this section and if I had more time I’d have turned around and ridden this section again.

It was a quick fuel up and bite to eat at Jerrys Plains and then onwards to Wauchope with still over 300 kilometres to go. I wasn’t ready for the grind of city traffic yet, but as I approached the Pacific Highway just west of Newcastle the queues begin.

The next two hours proved to be challenging in a different way. Fatigue from the last few days was creeping in, it was dark, it began raining and I felt surrounded by trucks and cars who clearly though the speed limit was an advisory sign.

About thirty minutes from Wauchope and I decide to stop to fuel up and take a quick stretch. I still have no plans for tonight, except to meet the RideADV team at the Wauchope Showgrounds. I have my camping gear with me which I haven’t used yet, or I could grab a motel room.

I gave Greg Yager a call just to check they were welcoming strangers at the Showgrounds. Abbey the Sweep Rider answers the phone on behalf of Greg, I introduce myself and Abbey encourages me to come and meet the team.

Have I mentioned I’m a bit apprehensive about my first rally? Although I’ve spoken with Greg a couple of times, I’d never met any of the team, or any of the thirty plus riders who had entered.

With names like TB, Abbey the Sweep Rider, Crash, Clay and Rooster they sound more like outlaw bikers than an adventure rider tour group.

The ride into Wauchope means exiting the Pacific Highway much to my relief and then winding my way into town. The GPS guides me to the showground but I then spend fifteen minutes trying to break into what appears to be a fortified facility. I park up on the footpath and a friendly jogger offers to guide me to the secret entrance.

He points me in the right direction and as I approach the automatic gate it opens as a car leaves. Great – this is my chance to sneak in. The car stops next to me, “G’day Batts welcome, come on in, you’ll see the tent set up. We’re off for ice cream, want one?” I assume they are part of the RideADV team.

Maybe they aren’t outlaw bikers after all. I still can’t believe I said no to the ice cream. I ride in and see the impressive RideADV set up, this isn’t a tent it looks more like a pop up castle, impressive. The set up is fully lit and I begin casting my eyes over the bling on the crews Tenere 700s as I pull up.

As I slide off my bike and remove my helmet Greg walks over, welcomes me, and we continue our Facebook Live chatting about the ride, accessories and the upcoming rally.

Once the camera is put away Greg introduces me to the rest of the team and makes me feel very welcome. He hands be a coldie and tells me to help myself to pizza. I may have been shy with the ice-cream, but I’m not knocking back pizza. A couple of hours pass quick as they share some of their stories and give me an insight of what is ahead over the next few days.

Its now the wrong side of 10:00 pm, and I need to start thinking about where to sleep. It’s too late and too many drinks to look for a motel so time to break out my new camping gear I purchased the day prior to departure. Setting your tent up for the first time in the dark isn’t ideal, but it’s up in a few minutes and sleeping bag and gel seat pillow ready to go. Then my heart sinks, I’ve forgotten to pack my Xped inflatable mattress.

Let’s say it was long and uncomfortable night sleeping on the ground. Tomorrow is scrutineering day and a chance to meet a few of the riders.

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Day 5: 485 km total. Highlight – New Graphics for Tenere. Must do – Bylong Highway.

Stay tuned for Day 6..

Source: MCNews.com.au

The Long Way to Wauchope

With Mark Battersby

View All Parts

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Day 4

I knew today was going to be a long day, slabs of straight bitumen roads as I head towards Bourke, Dubbo and then hopefully Mudgee for the night. So why the focus on Mudgee if the rally starts from Wauchope I hear you ask?

Since before buying my T7 I had been thinking of what custom graphics would adorn my new adventure bike. My love for the Paris Dakar meant I wanted to incorporate the iconic Dakar logo while retaining the history of the Tenere name.

I had no interest in fitting my own graphics kit, let’s just say I was at the back of the line when handyman skills were handed out. I knew I’d stuff it up and cringe looking at any photos of my pride and joy. DMK kept popping up in my searches and it wasn’t too far from Wauchope, so I reached out to DMK owner Jeff Dray. He offered an installation service and helped me finalise a design.

The run to Bourke was a straight and uneventful run, other than a tricky roadworks section which saw me directed towards a truck head on. Then it was just a quick splash of fuel and advice on where to eat in town.

The friendly attendant directed me down the road to Morralls Bakery, which was a great tip. After indulging in some pastry delights and experiencing some wonderful country customer service, it was time to continue towards Mudgee.

This proved to be another long straight stretch and my mind began to wander and anxiety started to creep in about the upcoming rally and if I’d bitten off more than I can chew. Like an oasis Mulga Creek Pub appeared and even though I wasn’t really hungry or thirsty this is a location you can’t drive past.

I just can’t get enough of these unique outback pubs, not just the theme and the character, but the people you meet who keep services open for us. Our chat was all too brief before I continued down the Mitchell Highway towards Nyngan.

Phone reception has been patchy throughout the day, and whenever I return to service the Bluetooth in my helmet commences a rapid fire dings of messages and emails. I pull over, check to see if there is anything urgent and notice a message from Jeff at DMK, “Did you want your graphics on Gloss or Matte?” Having no idea, I thought I’d give the expert a call to help me decide.

Jeff answered and immediately commented on my “Epic Adventure” and let me know he was following my progress. I was still amazed that anyone was interested in my ride to Wauchope, but I thanked him and settled on Gloss.

Jeff let me know his offsider would be fitting my graphics kit as he was at Dubbo Hospital with his wife as they were expecting a new addition to the family. ‘No problem mate, and all best with the birth of bub,’ I said, to which Jeff then replied, “Hey won’t you be going through Dubbo? If so we could catch up the way through.”

He’s a braver man than me leaving his expecting wife in hospital, but it would be great to catch up. “Nah its all-good mate,” he reassures me, “She’s not due for a couple of days.”

We agree on McDonalds in Dubbo, and within a couple of hours I’m pulling into the carpark with thoughts fixated on a McFeast and large fries and catching up with Jeff of course. After a couple of awkward message back and forth of “Are you sure you’re at McDonalds?” we realise there are two in town and Jeff drives over to meet me.

We spent about thirty minutes chatting about his beautiful wife (Jeff you still owe me $20 for saying this), motorcycles and business. It’s great to meet someone who is so passionate about their business and the motorcycle community. Jeff gives me some advice on the best route to Mudgee, but fails to let me know about the mouse plague that was gripping the greater Dubbo region – more on that shortly.

While I love riding at night, it presents challenges when trees and bushes are close to the road edge hiding wildlife that decides it’s the perfect time to explore. There were a quite a few kangaroo carcasses strewn through the winding roads and my pace eased accordingly, making the ninety minutes run to Mudgee look more like two hours.

Did I mention the mouse plague? I felt like I was playing live action “Frogger” with mice constantly crossing my path, flickering as they enter my headlights illumination.

Just after 7:00 pm I see the welcome signs for Mudgee and start looking for “Vacancy” signs as I haven’t booked any accommodation. I pass a series of “No Vacancy” signs until I finally see VACANCY flashing at the opposite end of town. I stop and walk into reception only to be told they are booked out and the “NO” sign isn’t working. I plead my case and the receptionist suggests a room at the Pub down the road – perfect.

I head into the pub and ask if they have anything available, and it appears I’m in luck. “We’ve had a few late walk ins, but I do have a room with one bed, is that okay?” I jokingly reply that its just me, so that’s fine. The young guy guides me to my room, round the back of the pub, up a long flight of stairs, through a common area to the base of a second set of stairs. He stops and points up the stairs and says, “It’s the room at the end.”

I ascend the stairs to the sound of high-pitched colourful language between a couple of lovely ladies. As I pass their room they slam their door and I’m hit with a strong “herbal” smell. I arrive at my room at the end of the hall ready to unload my gear, flop on the bed and relax.

As I open the door I’m confronted by what you can only describe as a converted broom closet. As I manoeuvre in and close the door my head hits the sharply sloping ceiling. The door itself have slots cut in the timber with a small metal grid placed over the cuts, I assume this is an attempt to allow air into the room as there are no windows.

My luck had to run out eventually. Time to return to the bike, carry my bags up two flights of stairs, check some of my GoPro footage and prepare for tomorrows adventure – Wauchope.

Day 4: Total kilometres: 690. Highlight: Mulga Creek Pub. Must do: Book accommodation if travelling to Mudgee!

Stay tuned for Day 5…

Source: MCNews.com.au