Tag Archives: Other Features

Evo Sportster | End of an Era

2022 Harley-Davidson XL883 Sportster left side
Is this 2022 Harley-Davidson XL883 Sportster one of that last air-cooled Evos? (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)

Few motorcycle brands are as legendary as Harley-Davidson. You won’t find the Hells Angels on Gold Wings or Panigales, after all. Within the brand, the Evolution (Evo) Sportster is truly iconic.

Born in 1957, XL Sportsters were the smaller performance models for more spirited riders. Originally equipped with 883cc and 1,000cc Ironhead engines, they were updated in 1986 to the Evo that produces the sound that many associate with Harley.

1957 Harley-Davidson XL Sportster right side
1957 Harley-Davidson XL Sportster (Photo by Jeff Bowles, lic. CC-A 2.0 G)

Development on the engines started during the notorious AMF years in the 1970s, and the original Evo was a 1,340cc variant, which replaced the aging Shovelhead in 1984. They are air-cooled with push rods, overhead valves, and enough vibration to remind you that it’s no Japanese cruiser. There’s nothing quite like an Evo.

Sportster: Old School with a Cult Following

2022 Harley-Davidson XL1200 Sportster right side
2022 Harley-Davidson XL1200 Sportster (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)

The 1986 Sportsters got 883cc and 1,100cc Evo engines that hardly changed over the next 36 years. The 1,100cc Evo got bumped up to 1,200cc in 1988, fuel injection was added in 2006, and a 5-speed transmission replaced the 4-speed in 1991. And that’s about it. We live in a very different world today where European emissions standards are strangling anything that runs on gas.

Harley’s old-school Evo rumblers just aren’t clean enough, so a new breed of Sportsters is taking their place. The Sportster S and Nightster (a recycled Evo Sportster name) have the latest Revolution Max engines first seen on the Pan America adventure bike, while the Milwaukee-Eight powers the Softail and Touring models.

Sportster 2021 Harley-Davidson Sportster S right side
2021 Harley-Davidson Sportster S (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)

The Revolution Max is a liquid-cooled V-twin with a lot more power, but it lacks the character of the admittedly obsolete Evos. Harley has finally axed the last two traditional Sportsters – the Iron 883 and Forty-Eight (1200) – with production slated to end in 2023. They were discontinued in Europe in 2020 due to Euro 5 regulations.

Related Story: 2021 Harley-Davidson Sportster S | First Ride Review

Evo Sportsters have a cult following for a reason – they have infinite character. Riding an Iron 883 in 2022 is similar to riding its 1957 counterpart, which is truly special. They’re also incredibly customizable – you can build an entire Sportster from scratch with aftermarket parts. It’s a tinkerer’s dream, and few Sportsters end up alike. So many have been punched out of the factory that they’ll seemingly live on forever in the preowned market.

Sportster 2022 Harley-Davidson Nightster right side
2022 Harley-Davidson Nightster (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)

Related Story: 2022 Harley-Davidson Nightster | First Ride Review

Are there any equivalents from other brands? Can you buy a new bike that’s comparably old-school? You certainly can, and we’ll start with a brand that’s even more old-school than Harley.

Royal Enfield

Sportster 1951 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 right side
1951 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 (Photo courtesy Bonhams)

Harley-Davidson was founded in 1903, but Royal Enfield started in 1901. In fact, it’s the oldest motorcycle brand with continuous production. Originally an English company, it produced a model as iconic as any Sportster: the Bullet. Launch in 1948, it beats the Sportster as the oldest motorcycle design in history. Both the Bullet and Royal Enfield names come from the same place, as the original company was a subcontractor to the Royal Small Arms Factory in Enfield, London, which produced military rifles and swords.

Sportster 2002 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 right side
2002 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 (Photo by Samihasib, lic. CC-A 2.0 G)

Like Harley, Royal Enfields were instrumental in World War II, used extensively by the British Army and Royal Air Force. The Indian Army began using Royal Enfield Bullets in the late 1940s and opened a factory in Madras. By 1955, 350cc bullets were sent as kits to Indian factories and production of complete motorcycles soon followed under license. The legendary 1955 Indian Bullet remained relatively unchanged, unlinking itself from the British counterparts that were updated in the late 1950s.

Sportster 2021 Royal Enfield Meteor 350 right side
2021 Royal Enfield Meteor 350 (Photo courtesy Royal Enfield)

Related Story: 2021 Royal Enfield Meteor 350 | Road Test Review

The British company fell into disarray in the early 1960s and was shut down by 1970, but India’s arm endured and produced the 1955 Bullet for domestic riders. Success was not infinite, as superior Japanese bikes almost wiped out the brand in the 1990s. India’s Eicher Motors bought the near-bankrupt company, and the long-running Bullet received significant quality improvements, while additional models were also developed.

Sportster 2022 Royal Enfield Classic 350 right side
2022 Royal Enfield Classic 350 (Photo courtesy Royal Enfield)

Related Story: 2022 Royal Enfield Classic 350 | First Ride Review

Today, there are two primary engine displacements – 350cc Singles and 650cc Twins. Smaller than the outgoing Evo engines but with no less character. All have fuel injection and emissions equipment to pass Western regulations. In fact, the Royal Enfield Meteor 350 became the best-selling 125cc-and-above motorcycle in the U.K. In the American market, the Bullet name was recently dropped in favor of the Classic (and Meteor) 350, while the Continental and INT 650s, Scram 411, and Himalayan 411 adventure bike are relatively new models.

Sportster Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 right side
Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 (Photo by the author)

All of them remain old-school and true to their roots, and you won’t find anything closer to bikes from the 1950s and 1960s. I dare say the Classic 350 is even more “vintage” than the Sportsters, while the new 650cc parallel-Twins are classically designed as well. Royal Enfields are designed in England and built in a state-of-the-art factory in India, and they’re half the price (or less) of new Sportsters. For old-school enthusiasts, they’re tough to fault.

BSA and Norton

BSA stands for Birmingham Small Arms Company, which began manufacturing firearms in the 1860s. in 1905, a bicycle with a small Minerva engine was built and motorcycle production became inevitable. The versatility of BSA was very evident during World War II when 67 factories supplied millions of rifles and machine guns, along with 126,000 M20 motorcycles.

Sportster 1956 BSA Gold Star Daytona 500 right side
1956 BSA Gold Star Daytona 500 (Photo courtesy Yesterdays Antique Motorcycles, lic. CC-BY-SA-4.0)

By 1950, BSA was the largest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. From 1938 to 1963, BSA’s Gold Star became an icon for the brand and was among the fastest bikes in the 1950s. It was called “Gold Star” after a Gold Star badge was awarded to Wal Handley in 1936 for running the Brooklands racing circuit at over 100 mph on a BSA Empire Star. Gold Star bikes had single-cylinder, 4-stroke engines in 350cc or 500cc displacements, and each came with dynamometer results to confirm horsepower.

BSA merged with Triumph and Norton to form Norton-Villiers-Triumph in a desperate attempt to save all three in the 1970s, but none could overcome the rising dominance of Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha. Triumph made a successful comeback in the 1990s with models reentering the U.S. market in 1995. The rights to Norton were bought in 2008, and the famous Commando was again produced in England, but the company fell into bankruptcy in 2020.

Sportster 2023 Norton Commando 961 right side
2023 Norton Commando 961 (Photo courtesy Norton)

India’s TVS Motor Company subsequently bought Norton, and expensive hand-built performance bikes are now being produced. A pair of 2023 retro Commando models were also just announced, the 961 SP and 961 CR (the latter with clip-ons), which follow the very limited 2019 Commandos. Prices are high, starting at nearly $19,000, and the 961cc parallel-Twin only pushes out 76.8 hp. That leaves BSA, which is currently under Indian ownership (sound familiar?) and reintroducing the Gold Star.

Sportster 2022 BSA Gold Star right side
2022 BSA Gold Star (Photo courtesy BSA)

The 2022 Gold Star has a 652cc single-cylinder engine that provides old-school character as thumpers tend to do. It makes 45 hp and can reportedly do the ton (100 mph), which is the same as the original 500cc model. Thankfully, the bike remains basic without ride modes, other electronics, or a fancy digital display. Like the 650cc Royal Enfields and even the new Commando, there are twin analog gauges for us Luddites. It’s ultimately a modern-ish bike with an old look and feel (like contemporary Triumphs) and certainly a very classic badge.

Wild Cards

Sportster 2022 Janus Halcyon 450 right side
2022 Janus Halcyon 450 (Photo courtesy Janus Motorcycles)

There are some niche brands selling old-school designs that are genuinely intriguing. Janus Motorcycles is an American company based in Indiana, but it doesn’t have a historic pedigree. These are simply new bikes with old-school charm. There are three models, but the Halcyon 450 has the biggest engine (445cc) and is the one to get. It reminds me of a 1920s James Flat Tank 750, minus the V-twin, and the single-cylinder thumper is sure to have character. Most onlookers will also think it’s a 100-year-old antique. With a top speed of 90 mph, it’s viable for highway rides, although I’d keep them short. The bikes are only available in the U.S. (but not California), and prices start at $14,995 for the Halcyon 450.

U.K.-based Wardill Motorcycles is similar to Janus, but it has a history going back to 1927. The modern incarnation is owned by Mark Wardill, grandson of the original designer, so there’s direct family involvement as well. The new Wardill 4 is based on the 1927 Wardill 3, which was revolutionary at the time with a patented 2-stroke supercharged engine (Kawasaki’s H2 wasn’t the first).

Sportster Wardill 4 Prototype left side
Wardill 4 Prototype with Mark Wardill (Photo courtesy Wardill Motorcycles)

Although a lot of positive attention was received, Wardill only produced prototypes and was soon forgotten. The Wardill 4 looks even older than the Janus Halcyon 450, with triangular girder forks, a longer tank, ridged frame, and 250cc single-cylinder engine. It puts out a paltry 17.3 hp but will allegedly hit a top speed of 90 mph. There are also drum brakes front and rear, so those looking for something old-school have struck oil with this one.

Brough Superior is a French brand with an English history going back to 1919. This was a luxury brand through and through, not unlike Duesenberg or Rolls-Royce, and was a favorite of Thomas Edward Lawrence, aka Lawrence of Arabia. In fact, he died riding one in 1932 (model GW 2275). The brand ceased production in 1940 to focus on the war effort and was unable to resume operations afterward.

Sportster 2021 Brough Superior Lawrence right side
2021 Brough Superior Lawrence (Photo courtesy Brough Superior)

It was founded by visionary George Brough and recently revived by Thierry Henriette, and the first new model based on the famous SS100 from 1924 was unveiled at the EICMA show in Milan in 2013. There are several models to choose from today, from the SS100 to the Lawrence Original, and all are hand-built luxury bikes with price tags to match. They really capture the early style of the originals while employing state-of-the-art engineering throughout. The 997cc V-twin of the new SS100 looks a lot like what Indian has in the Scout models, but these are very different beasts. It’s respectable in the power department, with 102 hp and 64 lb-ft of torque. 

Triumph and Kawasaki

Technically, all the bikes mentioned are modern classics, but brands like Royal Enfield and BSA maintain classic designs that compare well to the Evo Harleys. Bigger, more popular brands have capitalized on this vintage trend as well with thoroughly modern, retro-styled bikes. Triumph is the most recognized with the 1960s-inspired Bonneville line. Named after the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah, the original model launched in 1959 and had a 650cc parallel-Twin, while later models were upgraded to 750cc.

Sportster 2023 Triumph Bonneville T100 Meriden Blue right side
2023 Triumph Bonneville T100 in Meriden Blue (Photo courtesy Triumph)

Related Story: Triumph Announces New Colors, Names for Select 2023 Models

Although shuttered in the 1970s, Triumph made a triumphant return in the 1990s. Yes, pun intended. Today’s Bonnevilles look very similar to the mid-century originals but are modern, high-performance machines. The 1990s bikes started with 800cc parallel-Twins, later upgraded to 865cc, and today there are speedy 900cc and 1,200cc models. Performance is superior to Harley Sportsters, but that Harley character is missing with the smooth liquid-cooled engines. Bonnevilles have better starting prices than Sportsters, however, so enthusiasts can get a retro British thrill with money left over for accessories.

Sportster 2023 Kawasaki W800 right side
2023 Kawasaki W800 (Photo courtesy Kawasaki)

Triumph isn’t the only brand pushing out modern classics. Kawasaki has the W800, based on the 1966 650cc W1 (and even the 1949 BSA A7), Moto Guzzi has the 850cc V7, based on the 1971 V7 Sport, and Ducati has the Scrambler, loosely based on the 1962-1976 models. And so on. However, when comparing modern bikes to Harley, one brand can’t be overlooked.

Indian Motorcycle

Harley and Indian were the two great American brands during the first half of the 20th century. The first Indian prototype was finished in May 1901, beating Harley by a couple of years. Public sales began in 1902, and a year later, Indian’s Chief Engineer Oscar Hedstrom set a motorcycle speed record at 56 mph.

Sportster 1953 Indian Chief 80 right side
1953 Indian Chief 80 (Photo courtesy Mecum)

The first V-twin debuted in 1905 as a factory racer and hit production models in 1907, and Indian was producing 32,000 bikes annually by 1913. During World War I, the company focused on the war effort and exhausted its civilian supply, which drained inventory and forced many dealers to abandon them. Indian never fully recovered, and Harley became the bigger, more popular brand. The Scout and Chief V-Twin models, introduced in the early 1920s, are iconic and live on today as modern interpretations. Competition and mismanagement led to Indian’s demise in 1953, leaving Harley as the primary U.S. motorcycle manufacturer, but the brand came back a couple of times in the late 1990s and early 2000s, only to repeatedly falter.

Sportster 2022 Indian Scout Bobber right side
2022 Indian Scout Bobber (Photo by Kevin Wing)

Related Story: Harley-Davidson Sportster S vs. Indian FTR S vs. Indian Scout Bobber | Comparison Review

In 2011, Polaris acquired Indian and successfully revived the brand. There’s a smorgasbord of models today, including the performance-oriented, flat-track inspired FTR 1200. The Scout models are the closest to Harley’s Evo Sportsters but equipped with modern, more powerful liquid-cooled V-Twins. The new Revolution Max Sportsters are now appropriate comparisons. Under Polaris, Indian has become a modern performance-oriented motorcycle manufacturer, but the bikes still provide an old-school, nostalgic ride thanks to classic looks and outstanding V-Twins.

Evo Sportster: The King is Dead, Long Live the King

Sportster Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200
Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200 (Photo by the author)

This is not an exhaustive list of Evo Sportster alternatives, but it demonstrates a broad commitment to classic designs for those of us that prefer vintage-inspired rides without lots of angled plastic, bleeding-edge technology, and race-ready performance. Traditional Sportsters are a rare breed, a throwback to the past, but they’re certainly not alone. Although they’re soon to be dead, new kings will rise. Royal Enfield, BSA, Moto Guzzi, Triumph, Norton, and even Kawasaki remind us that a host of brands have very interesting histories and aren’t ready to close the door on vintage models. And that’s a very good thing.

The post Evo Sportster | End of an Era first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Veteran Takes a 15,000-mile ‘Ride for Light’

Ride for Light
Former Army paratrooper Perry Steed with his 2013 BMW R 1200 GS on the Ride for Light. Steed departed Wilmington, North Carolina, on May 20 and returned home August 14.

In his intro video on the Ride for Light Facebook page, former Army paratrooper Perry Steed says there has been something he has been unable to do for the last 10 years – an obstacle he hasn’t overcome.

“That obstacle has been going to collect one of my very best friend’s ashes,” he says with solemnity in his voice.

On April 24, 2012, Sgt. Kristopher Cool took his own life. Steed says he has known several people who died by suicide both before and since Cool, but his friend’s death has been “the worst one for so many reasons.”

I can relate to Steed’s struggles. I’ve never been any good with death, whether it was from old age, a tragic accident, or suicide. But it’s a little harder in the case of suicide because of the conflicting feelings for those left behind. In 2014, a good friend of mine who was a veteran took his own life, and I still get choked up thinking about the pain he must’ve been feeling and the times we haven’t been able to share since.

Ride for Light
Steed with Sgt. Kristopher Cool’s father, Mike Cool (left), and uncle Paul Cool (right).

According to the website for Steed’s nonprofit, Operation: Purpose, veterans are 50% more likely to die from suicide than those who haven’t served, and what started as a mission to retrieve his friend’s ashes in Minnesota and take them to Fort Bragg to spread on Sicily Drop Zone became a “rally cry for support.” On May 20, Steed departed Wilmington, North Carolina, on a 2013 BMW R 1200 GS for a 48-state trip covering more than 15,000 miles. He returned home August 14.

Related Story: 2014 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure Review

“This ride is meant to provide Kristopher a final resting place,” the Operation: Purpose website states, “while also illuminating the issue of veterans’ mental health.”

When I first contacted Steed in June, he had made it to my neck of the woods in the southeastern corner of Utah.

“None of us can save the 22 that died yesterday,” he told me, referring to the Veterans Affairs statistic that 22 veterans take their own lives each day. “But if we can save one today, maybe they can help save two tomorrow. And then we can get this thing under control.”

More Than a Promise

Steed served as a forward observer in the Bravo 1st Battalion, 319th Field Artillery Regiment, 82nd Airborne Division from 1994 to 1997. He met Cool at the 82nd replacement. Steed was coming from jump school, and Cool was working the change of quarters desk. “We got to chitchatting about music, and we had similar tastes.”

The two men served together in the 82nd Airborne Division. Cool left the service a year before Steed, but the two stayed in contact over the years, including a stint when they lived in the same town.

“For a long time, he and I were pretty much inseparable.” Steed paused, and his next words were heavier. “Those were good times.”

In April 2012, Steed got a call he said he was expecting. “But I couldn’t hear it. My friend had died by suicide.”

The news hit him hard, and he formulated the plan to gather the ashes.

Ride for Light
Seneca, Missouri, on the Oklahoma border.

“But every time it came around for me to do it, I just couldn’t seem to make it happen.”

Steed said he struggled with his own instabilities for several years, and when he heard the news about Cool, he was trying to focus on his family.

“In fact, when I got the call, I was waiting for my wife to come home so we could go to childbirth class for our middle child,” he said. “So I focused on trying to be there for them. But I haven’t been there for myself.”

But the tragedies kept “building and building,” he said, including the deaths of more than two dozen family members and friends from various causes.

“They’re not all old people that had lived a full life. A lot of these people were cut down in their prime, and there have been a few suicides.”

He tried to keep motoring on, but everything came crashing down when his father-in-law died of cancer in 2019.

“He was the glue keeping me together,” Steed said, “because I had been focusing on getting him to his treatments, to his doctor’s appointments – just being there and doing things.”

Earlier in our interview, Steed said he had left from Fruita, Colorado, that morning, taking U.S. Route 191 and visiting Arches National Park, one of five national parks in Utah, and was talking to me from one of his father-in-law’s favorite spots in Mexican Hat, Utah, on U.S. Route 163.

“I’m actually sitting in the motel that he talked about for years and years, and wanting to come back,” he said. “I’m here to spread some of his ashes tonight. I carry him with me everywhere. I was raised by a good family, but when I met this man and asked if I could marry his daughter, he turned into my dad.”

Ride for Light
Steed’s wife, Liz, and oldest child, Ella, greet him at the welcome home event, which included a police escort, 60-70 other bikes, and two news crews.

Once his father-in-law died, “everything spiraled out of control for my family and me. And then Covid hit.”

He said the pandemic felt like a reset for a lot of people, himself included. He started using VA grief counseling tools and “put in a whole lot of work to get myself to where I could honor the promise I made when Kris passed away to go get his ashes.”

Before Christmas 2021, Steed spoke with his wife, who encouraged him to do it. The idea of the trip got him thinking about a friend in Oklahoma he had served with and who had been difficult to reach for quite a while.

“People don’t pop into my head for no reason,” he said. “So if someone pops into my head, there’s a higher calling for me to reach out to that person. I’m going to find them and I’m going to call them and I’m going to check on them.”

At that point, the purpose of the trip evolved.

“It’s me checking on battle buddies, guys I served with, friends of guys I served with, complete strangers.”

Over the course of reaching out to people, Steed reestablished a connection with a friend he served with who lives in San Luis Obispo, California.

“I told him, ‘Hey man, I’m getting ready to do this crazy thing. Hell, I might even come to California.’”

When Steed explained the impetus for his trip, the friend asked if Steed would also retrieve the ashes of his brother, Specialist David J. Howard.

“I haven’t physically seen this guy in California in over 20 years, and he still thinks enough of me to trust me with some of his brother’s remains knowing that I’m going to do exactly what I told him I would do and spread those ashes on Fort Bragg.”

Ride for Light
The Pacific Coast Highway, near Big Sur, California.

The Pros and Cons of 15,000 Miles of Helmet Time

Steed has been riding motorcycles for about 13 years. While the 1200 GS is his chosen mount for this mission – a bike he said was a holdout for him, even with the rave reviews – it’s not the only bike in his stable. His first motorcycle was an ’84 BMW R 80 RT.

“I spent a ton of money getting that thing right,” he said. “I still have it.”

He also owns an ’81 Yamaha XS 650, an ’84 BMW R 100 RT, a ’74 Moto Guzzi Eldorado, and a 2015 Suzuki V-Strom 650XT. A full stable indeed.

After more than a decade in the saddle, he’s no stranger to helmet time, but the Ride for Light provided more of a challenge. For one, it was longer than any rides he had previously taken.

“I did a mini trip last summer,” he said. “I rode 2,500 miles, just around North Carolina and Virginia and those areas, to see if I could even handle being in my head that long.”

Ride for Light
On U.S. Route 26 in Oregon approaching Mount Hood, which Steed said was huge. “I rode for a long time, and it didn’t look like it got any closer.”

Steed originally planned on doing the trip solo, but he was joined along the way by various friends and family. When he set out from North Carolina, he had a friend who is also a veteran ride along with him for the first five days and then split off in Georgia, at which point Steed was joined by a cousin who rode with him about 1,100 miles to the Oklahoma state line.

“He’s been riding for a long time,” Steed said of the cousin, “but as far as long stretches in the saddle, that’s the longest he’s ever done.”

In addition to the distance, his cousin had also never ridden with anyone else, which provided Steed some opportunities for coaching and helped break up the monotony. But more than that, Steed was glad for the cousin to come along because he is a veteran as well.

Ride for Light
New River State Park in North Carolina. Steed camped for about 80% of the trip, which allowed him to be alone, regroup from each day, and do a mental check-in. He said the camping setup and takedown routines were comforting.

“He downplays his military service, but he still signed a blank check. He’s a good dude.”

And Steed ultimately connected with that friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma. They rode together to Fort Sill, where Steed had completed basic and advanced individual training. The two rode about 700 miles together.

Besides the camaraderie, the other advantage to having someone else along is in case of a mishap. After riding the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee with the friend who had been with him from the start, Steed separated a rib doing some off-roading on a forestry road. At that point in the trip, he had become used to having someone tag along. He felt like he could push himself, take a few more chances, and do a little more off-roading. When his friend split off, that changed.

Ride for Light
Another 20 yards down this trail, just off the Tail of the Dragon in Tennessee, is where Steed had the accident that separated his rib.

“All that stuff was gone,” he said. “I had to come to grips with no guarantees of anybody doing it with me.”

When you get used to someone being around – even if just for a short time – it makes it harder when they’re gone, like when a good friend comes to visit and you feel a little bit lonely when they leave.

Or when a friend you’ve known for many years takes his own life.

In the late 1970s, psychiatrist Dr. Bessel Van Der Kolk started working with Vietnam veterans. Interestingly, his first patient would ride his Harley to bring himself down from moments of rage brought on by his trauma.

“The vibrations, speed, and danger of that ride helped him pull himself back together,” Van Der Kolk wrote in his 2014 book The Body Keeps the Score.

Van Der Kolk’s original work took place before post-traumatic stress disorder was an official diagnosis. These days, his contributions are considered pivotal in the field of trauma. He says one area of difficulty shared by those dealing with trauma is the inability to live in the moment. This capacity is the foundation of meditation and the somewhat recently coined term of “mindfulness.”

Ride for Light
The scenic Mount Washington Auto Road off New Hampshire Route 16.

Personally, I appreciate the fact that when I’m on my bike, I’m only on my bike. Preoccupied with operating the machine, there isn’t much room to think about a troubling situation at work or home. The past and the future don’t matter nearly as much as the present moment.

For Steed, that wasn’t always the case on this trip.

“I’m stuck in my head and in my helmet all day,” he told me in June. “It’s like when you’ve got two kids who don’t get along, you lock them in a room together and say, ‘You guys are going to be getting along before you walk out of this room.’ That’s me, man. Some days my biggest fights are with myself.”

But this was a battle he was determined to win.

“Just today, I got in my head this morning,” he said. “I didn’t want to ride. I didn’t want to go anywhere. I was fumbling around getting ready, and I was awake almost all night for no reason.”

Steed said that as men, we try to find out the rationale, to get to the “why” for everything.

“But it’s just me,” he said. “It’s how I am. It’s how I’m wired. A success for me is going to be if I can get out of this trip being able to live in my head better.”

Steed said he could’ve chosen to fly to all these places to retrieve the ashes, maybe checked in on friends that way, “but I have things I also need to work out.”

“I need to be a better person for myself. I need to be a better husband for my wife, a better father for my children. I need to be a better friend, a better brother, a better son. With all these demons lurking over me, I’m out here trying to just pay all the kindness forward that I can, check on these folks, talk some stuff out with people I haven’t seen in a long time, and try to have some fun of my own.”

And there have been good times.

Ride for Light
The temps were so high near Badlands National Park that Steed’s GPS on his phone stopped working. When it cooled off, he snapped this photo.

When you hit 48 states on a bike, you can’t list all the spots, but there are some eye-poppers worthy of mention. Although Utah is definitely beautiful, it was hot when he came through my home state, with temps in the triple digits. People in the Southwest like to say, “but it’s a dry heat,” to which Steed replied, “The only difference between a wet heat and dry heat is that with a dry heat, you don’t know you’re dying. Even though this GS is a waterhead, it was still not liking it.”

I can’t imagine Amarillo, Texas, was much cooler, but he has some great pics and videos of his stop at the Cadillac Ranch on his Facebook page. He rode in some “hellacious storms” along the way, and he stuck his feet in the Gulf of Mexico – “with my riding boots on.” There was a spark in his voice when he spoke of riding the Tail of the Dragon. After a couple days’ rest following his off-road crash and waiting out the rain, he rode it again. 

Ride for Light
Itasca State Park, the headwaters of the Mississippi River.

Then there are the people, of course. Beyond visiting friends and family, he’s met a slew of strangers.

After a mishap with his bike in Oklahoma, Steed stayed an extra day and got to meet some friends of his buddy who were also veterans, some of whom had pulled “some pretty serious duty.”

He also mentioned a 20-year military veteran who was particularly inspiring. Steed said the man, who had been hospitalized twice for mental issues, had been rudderless until he started volunteering in a VA nursing home after retiring from the service. 

Ride for Light
On the shore of Iona’s Beach at Lake Superior.

After seeing the lack of attention paid to a couple of soldiers who had died under VA care, the man went to school to become a mortician and a funeral director, Steed said, with the mission of giving veterans the best burial they deserve.

“That is a fantastic thing to do for someone,” he said. “That really touched me. Because it’s not just Iraq and Afghanistan veterans I’m trying to help. A huge segment of our population that never received any kind of help were Vietnam vets.”

He said that, 50 years later, Vietnam veterans are still trying to figure out their place in this world.

“They were spit on or ridiculed when they got home. A lot of the veterans that end up committing suicide are from that theater of conflict and age demographic. Veterans often feel like they can’t help anybody and all they’re doing is hurting other people, so that’s why they do it.”

Ride for Light
Steed’s GS on July 2 in Madison, Minnesota.

Steed said the people he’s met kept him going.

“Every positive reaction I get from telling people about what I’m doing makes me want to talk to somebody else,” he said. “This has been an exercise in me stretching my capabilities as far as reaching out to folks.”

Then there were the people waiting back home, namely his wife and three kids.

“If it wasn’t for my wife and children, there’s no way I could do this,” he said. “My wife has been the biggest cheerleader I’ve had.”

He said when he was having a difficult day, one that started with depression or anxiety, his wife was his support.

“It puts a lot of pressure on her, and I feel terrible about it sometimes, but if I’m having a rough day, I have to call her. She’s the one who has kept my head right for so long.”

Finally, he said he believes he’s getting help from those he’s lost over the last 10 years.

“Somebody’s watching out for me,” he said. “Of all the people I’ve buried that meant so much to me, I think they’re all having a huddle upstairs and saying, ‘Dude, we gotta get this guy straight.’”

Ride for Light
Steed and Staff Sgt. Paul Tower at New Hampshire State Veterans Cemetery.

The Road Keeps Rolling

In the 1994 movie Shawshank Redemption, two of the main characters reference a choice: Get busy living or get busy dying.

Steed’s mission will be over at some point. As of this writing, he has ridden 48 states and rolled back home to his family, and plans are in the works to spread the ashes of Cool and Howard at the Sicily Drop Point. But he’s determined not to make that the end of the road. This wasn’t just a trip about death; it’s about life.

Steed said that while he has been helped by the VA in many ways, he also recognizes its deficits. He has been researching various organizations that help veterans and is working on his 501(c)(3) status for Operation: Purpose, as well as accepting donations on his website.

Ride for Light
Battlefield Cross sculpture at Veterans Monument Park, Andover, Connecticut.

“The real disconnect is placement for veterans in crisis and their families,” he said. “Who do you call? What do you do? Everyone knows the suicide hotline, but what happens after that? The goal is to create an education program for families and veterans.”

Steed knows some therapists willing to donate their time, and he is working with someone to apply for grants for Mental Health First Aid training, which helps someone who encounters another in a mental health crisis.

“You have skills available to talk them down, calm them down, and get them somewhere where they can think more rationally, or you can get them help without them harming themselves.”

Steed wants veterans to feel like they have another option besides ending their lives.

Ride for Light
Sgt. Kristopher Cool’s headstone at Fort Snelling Veterans Cemetery, Minnesota.

His long-term goal is to ultimately create a multiuse space similar to those seen on military installations, but in the immediate future, his first step is to create a database of key people in his area. He compared it to the military term “interlocking fields of fire.”

“I’ve got guys who are spread out in the greater Wilmington area, and it’s a network of people who know the veterans,” he said, adding that there are a lot of retired or ex-military in Wilmington, as well as several military bases in North Carolina in general. “We know a lot of people. We can be there for each other. We can be the ear and the shoulder and can offer redirection if that’s feasible.”

This support is what Operation: Purpose is all about.

“We may wake up tomorrow morning and the VA won’t be there anymore, but we still need to help each other. We didn’t have the VA when we were in [the service], but we had each other, and I need to reestablish that line of thinking, to bring the camaraderie and the unity and help each other get our dignity back and a hope for a better day.”

Ride for Light
The New Hampshire State Veterans Cemetery in Boscawen, New Hampshire. The week after Steed’s visit, he learned that the state is creating a monument recognizing the issue of veteran suicide.

For more information, to make a donation, or to buy Operation: Purpose merchandise that supports veterans in crisis, visit OperationPurpose.net.

This article first appeared in the October issue of Rider. All photos courtesy of Perry Steed. Paul Dail joined the Rider staff as Associate Editor in June. This is his first story for the magazine. He also wrote the Exhaust Note for the October issue.

The post Veteran Takes a 15,000-mile ‘Ride for Light’ first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Neale Bayly | Ep. 47 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

Ep47 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast Neale Bayly

Our guest on Episode 47 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast is Neale Bayly, a motorcycle journalist and TV host who has documented his adventures and travels around the world. We recorded this interview while Bayly was at the Barber Advanced Design Center at the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum, where he serves as a media liaison and content producer. During this episode, we took a trip down memory lane: Bayly was at Greg Drevenstedt’s first motorcycle press launch in 2008, an event that will forever live in infamy. We talk to Bayly about his work as a journalist and Wellspring International Outreach, a nonprofit he founded to bring aid and attention to the abandoned and at-risk children throughout the world.

Earlier this year, Bayly and photographer Kiran Ridley rode motorcycles through Ukraine to document the human toll of the war, particularly the effects on women and children. Their photos and story are available on RiderMagazine.com and they’ll be featured in the January 2023 issue of Rider. We encourage listeners to donate to Wellspring, which is providing support to a children’s hospital in Ukraine.

LINKS: Neale Bayly Rides on InstagramNeale Bayly Rides on FacebookWellspring International Outreach“Nowhere Is Safe” by Neale Bayly on RiderMagazine.com

You can listen to Episode 47 on iTunesSpotify, and SoundCloud, or via the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage. Please subscribe, leave us a 5-star rating, and tell your friends! Scroll down for a list of previous episodes.

Visit the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage to check out previous episodes:

The post Neale Bayly | Ep. 47 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

The Best Motorcycle Ride in Eastern Oklahoma

Eastern Oklahoma
One of the Green Country Oklahoma Adventure Tour’s (GOAT) most beautiful segments runs along a dirt road east of the Illinois River, accessed via Combs Bridge. Photos by Susan Dragoo.

If you’re planning a motorcycle tour in Eastern Oklahoma and you want to find the best roads and the most scenic and historic sites, take a ride with Oklahoma locals Bill and Susan Dragoo in this feature, “Riding the Territory,” from the pages of Rider magazine’s October issue. Scroll down for a route map and a link to the route on REVER.


Red skies silhouette the towering sandstone spires of Monument Valley. A six-horse team gallops across the movie screen in the foreground, pulling a stagecoach trailing a cloud of dust as the occupants desperately try to escape a band of mounted Plains Indians shooting arrows and sending up war whoops. It’s an exciting scene and an image that easily comes to mind when we try to picture life in the 1800s west of the Mississippi. The “Wild West,” in other words.

While that iconic scene may have occurred at some moment in time, a depiction of Western adventure somewhat closer to reality is the story of True Grit, in which aging U.S. Marshal Rooster Cogburn is recruited by a teenage girl to track down her father’s killer in the dangerous, outlaw-ridden Indian Territory during the days of “Hanging Judge” Isaac Parker.

Eastern Oklahoma
Smooth asphalt winds through lush tree canopies in Eastern Oklahoma, illustrating how Green Country got its name.

The Indian Territory – what is now Eastern Oklahoma – truly had its share of outlaws in the days after the Civil War. Cattle rustlers, horse thieves, whiskey peddlers, and bandits sought refuge in the untamed territory. For many years, the only court with jurisdiction over white men in Indian Territory was the U.S. District Court for the Western District of Arkansas located in Fort Smith, where Judge Parker held the bench for 21 years and handed down 160 death sentences.

Those outlaw days left a colorful legacy still recognizable in places like Horsethief Springs, Robbers Cave State Park, and the Fort Smith National Historic Site. And thanks to its hilly topography, Eastern Oklahoma is not only full of historical riches but also rife with great motorcycle roads. The Ozark Plateau stretches over from Arkansas into northeastern Oklahoma, and farther south, the Ouachita Mountains provide an even craggier landscape. As a result, the roads – once foot trails, wagon roads, stagecoach routes, and military roads – are a playground for motorcyclists.

Eastern Oklahoma

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

Wonderful paved twisties and miles of dirt and gravel backroads pervade the hills and hollows, flowing through this sparsely populated countryside. The feeling is one of remoteness, even if you’re never very far from a stretch of highway that will get you to an outpost of civilization.

We’ve spent much of our lives exploring Oklahoma. And while we live in the prairies farther west, the deep green forests and remote byways of the state’s eastern region keep drawing us back, time after time.

Limestone bluffs tower over twisty State Highway 10, the corridor to many of Eastern Oklahoma’s scenic delights.

For us, a perfect starting point for a multiday tour of Oklahoma’s “Green Country” is Tahlequah. Situated about 70 miles southeast of Tulsa, Tahlequah is the modern headquarters of the Cherokee Nation and the end point for the Cherokees’ forced removal from their homeland east of the Mississippi. This relocation took place during 1838 and 1839. Other eastern tribes affected by the forced-removal policy of the U.S. government that would later come to be known as the “Trail of Tears” included the Choctaws, Creeks (Muscogees), Seminoles, and Chickasaws. Along with the Cherokees, they were known as the “Five Civilized Tribes.”

For more information about Tahlequah and the surrounding area, visit TourTahlequah.com

Once re-settled in Indian Territory, they rebuilt their societies, governed themselves, and lived in relative peace and prosperity until the devastation of the Civil War, after which white settlers inundated the Territory. Oklahoma statehood in 1907 erased tribal sovereignty. In the 1970s, legislation restored the tribes’ ability to exercise powers of self-government, allowing entities such as the Cherokee Nation to thrive.

Tahlequah’s historic sites require a leisurely day or two to enjoy, so we recommend spending some time there seeing the Cherokee National History Museum, housed in the renovated Cherokee National Capitol. Also in downtown Tahlequah is the Cherokee National Supreme Court Museum, which was built in 1844 and housed the printing press of the Cherokee Advocate, the first newspaper in Oklahoma. This museum is the oldest government building in Oklahoma. Hunter’s Home in nearby Park Hill is the only remaining pre-Civil War plantation home in the state. 

Eastern Oklahoma
The Cherokee National Capitol in Tahlequah was completed in 1869. It now serves as the Cherokee Nation Courthouse. Photo courtesy Tour Tahlequah.

When you’re ready to get on the road, cruise north from Tahlequah on State Highway 10 along the Illinois River, one of Oklahoma’s few state-designated scenic rivers and a popular site for floating, fishing, and camping. Stay on Highway 10 or veer off at Combs Bridge, crossing the Illinois River to explore an easy dirt road squeezed between the river and the bluff. It winds through farmland and across an area of cascading water called Bathtub Rocks.

Eastern Oklahoma
Bathtub Rocks is located in the JT Nickel Family Nature and Wildlife Preserve near Tahlequah.

At Combs Bridge, you can also pick up the Green Country Oklahoma Adventure Tour (GOAT), a route of about 500 miles almost entirely within the Cherokee Nation. The GOAT follows public roads with loose gravel, large rocks, mud, steep hills, and an abundance of water crossings, making for a lot of fun, especially after a good rain.

Eastern Oklahoma
County Road 569 passes over Bathtub Rocks, offering a perpetual water crossing.

If you’re more into pavement, continue northeast on Highway 10 to U.S. Route 412 and detour to beautiful Natural Falls State Park, which offers a short hike to a 77-foot waterfall and dripping springs. Grab lunch in nearby Siloam Springs, Arkansas, and return west to Highway 10/U.S. Route 59 for a pavement ride north over Lake Eucha to State Highway 20, which takes you on a super-twisty route around Spavinaw Lake southwest to Salina, the oldest European-American settlement in Oklahoma. In 1796, Jean Pierre Chouteau encouraged several thousand Osage people to move from Missouri to what would become northeastern Oklahoma, establishing a trading post at present-day Salina. An old salt kettle in a city park along Highway 20 is all that remains of this rich history.

Eastern Oklahoma
Clear, rushing brooks abound in the hills of Eastern Oklahoma; the one can be found tent-side in Tenkiller State Park.

From Salina, State Highway 82 returns you to Tahlequah, but if you have time, veer west on State Highway 51 and catch State Highway 80 for a jaunt south on a twisty paved road along the eastern shore of Fort Gibson Lake and continue to the Fort Gibson Historic Site.

Built in 1824, this was the first military post established in Indian Territory and was intended to maintain peace between the Osages and Cherokees. It figured prominently in the forced relocations of the 1830s and served as a base for military expeditions exploring the West. It was abandoned in 1857 but reactivated during the Civil War. The army stayed for some years after the war, dealing with outlaws and keeping the peace. Visitors can see a 1930s reconstruction of the early log fort and the stockade, as well as original buildings dating back to the 1840s. 

Eastern Oklahoma
Riding the GOAT after a good rain assures some adventure on low water crossings.

From Fort Gibson, loop back to Highway 82 and ride along the eastern shore of Lake Tenkiller, where Tenkiller State Park offers another good spot for camping, as well as lodging in cabins. Continuing south, a short detour out of Sallisaw brings you to Sequoyah’s Cabin Museum. Sequoyah created a system of writing for the Cherokee people and built this log cabin in 1829. It is enclosed by a stone structure built in 1936.

Eastern Oklahoma
Camping and cabins at Tenkiller State Park offer beautiful sunset views.

Just north of Sequoyah’s Cabin is one of the more technical segments of the GOAT, the rough and rocky Old Stagecoach Road. Which stagecoach line used the road is unclear, but it is definitely old. The road shows up clear as day on a 1901 topographic map, following West Cedar Creek through a gap in the Brushy Mountains. With a moderate level of skill, an average rider can negotiate Old Stagecoach Road.

Continuing south takes you into the Choctaw Nation. At Red Oak, catch some twisty pavement over the mountains on Highway 82, ending up in Talihina. Or turn west at Red Oak on State Highway 270 and spend a day at Robbers Cave State Park just north of Wilburton, where Civil War deserters and outlaws – including the Youngers, the Dalton Gang, and Belle Starr – reportedly hid in the park’s namesake cave.

Eastern Oklahoma
The colorful history and intriguing rock formations of Robbers Cave make it a popular destination.

Legend has it that the remote location and rugged terrain made the cave a nearly impregnable fortress, with the criminals able to escape through a secret back exit. We’ve been in the cave, and that “back exit” looks like a tight squeeze and a dead end. The park also features camping, lodging in vintage cabins built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and some of the state’s best hiking.

Heading on toward Talihina, you enter the Ouachita National Forest and some of the most spectacular riding in Oklahoma, on or off pavement. The star of the show in this region is the Talimena Scenic Drive, which begins just northeast of Talihina. The serpentine 54-mile national scenic byway steeply ascends Winding Stair Mountains, staying on the crest as it crosses over into Arkansas. Across the state line atop Rich Mountain, Queen Wilhelmina State Park is a popular stop. At nearly 2,700 feet elevation, Rich Mountain is Arkansas’ second highest peak, and the spot offers breathtaking scenery when the clouds aren’t draped over the mountaintop.

Eastern Oklahoma
A bird’s eye view of Talimena Scenic Drive, a national scenic byway that follows the crest of the Winding Stair Mountains through Oklahoma and Arkansas.

The Talimena Scenic Drive also boasts multiple offshoots for unpaved riding, and hiking trails abound. One popular footpath is Horsethief Springs, which follows a route horse thieves used in the 1800s, making their camps and corrals near the top of the mountain near a perennial spring. A stone structure built by the CCC in the 1930s now surrounds the spring, which had run dry the last time we passed through.

For hardcore hikers, the 223-mile Ouachita National Recreation Trail runs along this same ridge. We’ve backpacked the trail from Talimena State Park to Little Rock, Arkansas, in a series of section hikes and can affirm that steep, difficult climbing does not require high elevations. Nearby you can also pick up the Oklahoma Adventure Trail for more off-road two-wheeled exploration. This approximately 1,500-mile mostly unpaved trail circumnavigates Oklahoma and offers a huge variety of terrain.

Eastern Oklahoma
The Ouachita Trail’s 223-mile path is a backpacker’s delight, especially in the fall.

The Talimena Scenic Drive drops you off in Mena, Arkansas, and from there you can follow U.S. Highway 71 to Fort Smith. The Fort Smith National Historic Site and its surroundings offer a glimpse into a spot that was once the westernmost military post in the United States and later became best known for the justice meted out by Judge Parker. A reproduction of the gallows and Parker’s restored courtroom are among the exhibits. 

From Fort Smith, take a leisurely ride north on Arkansas Highway 59, a scenic paved road hugging the border between Oklahoma and Arkansas. Along the way, make a stop at Natural Dam Falls, a lovely waterfall just off the highway. Near Dutch Mills, Arkansas, take a short side trip to Cane Hill, where you’ll swear you just emerged from a time warp. Attracted by the area’s natural springs, Cane Hill’s first European settlers established a township there in 1829. A museum and walking trails help the visitor interpret and explore the community’s well-preserved historic sites.

Jog back to Highway 59 northbound to U.S. Highway 62, which crosses into Oklahoma at Westville, the easternmost point of the Trans-America Trail as it begins its Oklahoma segment across the state’s northern tier.

Back in Tahlequah, pick up where you left off with historical exploration, or take a break and float the Illinois. No matter what you choose, take a moment to contemplate the Western history you’ve just experienced. Then go watch True Grit again.

Eastern Oklahoma
The rising sun typically burns off the fog in Eastern Oklahoma’s Illinois River valley. Photo courtesy Tour Tahlequah.

This article originally appeared in the October 2022 issue of Rider.

The post The Best Motorcycle Ride in Eastern Oklahoma first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Dave Scott | Ep. 46 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

Ep46 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast Dave Scott
Dave Scott on his KTM 500 EXC-F in the Ozark Mountains. Photo by Rick Koch.

Our guest on Episode 46 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast is Dave Scott, an old friend of host Greg Drevenstedt. This episode was recorded while Rider’s editorial team was in the final week of production for the November 2022 issue – our first-ever adventure-themed issue. Scott was the inspiration for the issue. In the summer of 2020, during a record-breaking hurricane season that drenched the Southeast in rain and when we were still in the early months of the Covid-19 pandemic, Scott took a solo journey on the TransAmerica Trail, a mostly off-road route that extends from coast to coast. He wrote a story about his adventure, and it goes well with other features in the November issue about the Trans Canada Adventure Trail, the Trans Euro Trail, and the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park. Scott has a way with words, which is why we wanted to interview him on the podcast as a companion to his story. We had a freewheeling, uncensored conversation for nearly an hour, but we only made it as far as the Mississippi River on Scott’s east-to-west journey.

Enjoy this episode, and stay tuned for a follow-up episode where we’ll hear more about riding across America on a dirtbike.

You can listen to Episode 46 on iTunesSpotify, and SoundCloud, or via the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage. Please subscribe, leave us a 5-star rating, and tell your friends! Scroll down for a list of previous episodes.

Visit the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage to check out previous episodes:

The post Dave Scott | Ep. 46 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

C. Jane Taylor | Ep. 45 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

C. Jane Taylor Rider Magazine Insider Podcast
C. Jane Taylor reads from “Spirit Traffic” at Timbre Books in Ventura, California.

Our guest on Episode 45 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast is C. Jane Taylor. We talked to Jane back in April on Episode 32. Her book, Spirit Traffic: A Mother’s Journey of Self-Discovery and Letting Go, had just been released, and we published an excerpt in the April 2022 issue of Rider. During our previous interview, Jane was down in Costa Rica on a yoga retreat with her husband, John. In May, Jane and John embarked on a motorcycle tour to promote Spirit Traffic. They packed gear on their BMW F 650 GS motorcycles and hit the road for 97 days. They rode 15,000 miles, and Jane gave more than 50 readings in bookstores, bars, coffee shops, motorcycle events, and people’s homes. We talk with Jane about her and John’s cross-country tour to promote her book about a cross-country tour they did with their son, Emmett, in 2015. Spirit Traffic is a thoroughly enjoyable book that’s honest, funny, poignant, and original – we highly recommend it.
LINKS: C. Jane Taylor’s website

You can listen to Episode 45 on iTunesSpotify, and SoundCloud, or via the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage. Please subscribe, leave us a 5-star rating, and tell your friends! Scroll down for a list of previous episodes.

Visit the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage to check out previous episodes:

The post C. Jane Taylor | Ep. 45 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Rubbing Elbows With GP Heroes at Laguna Seca Raceway

The following feature was originally published in the September issue of Rider and tells the story of a young aspiring motojournalist in the early 1990s rubbing elbows with his heroes – Grand Prix world champions such as Wayne Rainey, Kevin Schwantz, John Kocinski, and Mick Doohan – at the famous Laguna Seca Raceway in Monterey County, California.


Laguna Seca
Wayne “Mr. Clean” Rainey and the author, Glen “Baby Face” Weaver, who forgot to remove his freebie Honda cap before posing with Yamaha’s World Champion rider. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

It was that shriek. Something wicked this way comes.

On a foggy spring morning in 1989, my teenage self eagerly pressed against a spectator fence overlooking the Turn 1 summit at Laguna Seca Raceway, and I could hear and feel the wickedness approaching. Wayne Rainey was winding up his beast.

Related Story: Wayne Rainey: Ep 16 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

This was the era of absolute lunacy on brutally unforgiving analog 2-strokes. Before programmable powerbands, quickshifters, or even fuel injection, Grand Prix motorcycles dared riders to tame them by feel alone.

Soaring torque outputs with old-school carburetors. Tires struggling to provide enough side grip. Simply surviving on a 500cc GP bike required exquisite throttle timing with adroit pressure on the controls. And as Americans raised the ante, success demanded peak physical conditioning to precisely wrestle one’s mount into submission for an hourlong race.

Laguna Seca
Even with four world championships, Eddie Lawson still had to push his own bike back to the pits after the plug chop.

Easily the most mesmerizing show on Earth. 

I soaked it all up for three glorious days. There was Rainey’s howling two-wheeled drift over that hill at 150 mph. Shrieking engines and the rich smell of exhaust heavy with 2-stroke oil. Warm coastal sunshine after the fog burns off. The delightful exhaustion and feeling of brotherhood being among the cavalcade of streetbikes rumbling away from the track each evening.

Laguna Seca
Wayne Rainey sweeps into Turn 9 at Laguna Seca during the 1991 U.S. Grand Prix. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

Of course, I wanted even more. I wanted to get as close as possible to these superstars, the fastest men on the planet. Could a wide-eyed young fan like me slip behind the scenes into the rarefied air of international racing drama?

Starting Line

My personal motorcycling adventures had begun nearby just a couple of years earlier. Attending college in Santa Cruz had fortuitously put me at basecamp to some of the most wonderfully twisty asphalt on the West Coast, including State Highways 9, 35, and 84 near Alice’s Restaurant.

Real racers and wannabes sliced through these legendary routes, especially on Sunday mornings. For the most part the roads were smooth, banked, and lightly traveled – ideal for carving it up with weapons of dramatic lean angles and extreme acceleration.

Summer work had afforded me a hopped-up Honda 600 Hurricane in sexy charcoal gray and red. I fell in love with this rocket, and we became inseparable, exploring this sport-riding playground every chance we got. Exposure to racing taught me to approach those fabulous curves as combinations to smooth out the sequences and find a flow.

Laguna Seca
Full of unearned confidence after acquiring a very fast bike, the author poses in Seaside, California, at 18 years of age. Photo by Sandra Weaver.

A stretch of Highway 84 running west from Sky Londa quickly became my favorite. The pavement was older, but its long constant-radius sweepers allowed me to settle in at high tilt and enjoy the roller-coaster ride.

No matter the destination, zipping up my leathers and mounting the throaty Hurricane made me feel like a superhero. I often rode up to campus late at night just to take in the twinkling lights below. I became Batman, brooding atop Gotham City.

Laguna Seca
The author admits it was only luck that saved him from fines and crashes during his early sport-riding years. Photo by Ben Pobst.

But how does one go from hero to immortal? How could I get close to those racing gods?

My buddy Eugene had enrolled down south at UC San Diego. During a visit, he showed me his school’s notorious satire rag, The Koala. On a lark, their goofball writers had managed to secure an interview with one of the San Diego Padres.

Then it hit me. If those college kids could access MLB players, perhaps we could pull the same trick at Laguna Seca. It seemed a long shot, but Santa Cruz did have a rudimentary student-run newspaper called The Redwood Review. I convinced the sports editor to submit media requests for us on their crude letterhead.

Word came back – we had qualified as local press. We would soon be rubbing elbows with world champions!

And so, on April 19, 1991, trying to play it cool, Eugene and I eased through the first security checkpoint. No fans allowed – just teams, officials, and reporters. It was like being dropped into one of the highlight videos I’d been recording on ESPN.

Laguna Seca
The author looks over his shoulder, certain he will be busted at any moment by paddock security. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

Laguna Seca Paddock Pass

Racers were easily spotted getting ready for practice or debriefing with mechanics afterward. Between sessions, a few took refuge in motorhomes, but most strolled around to chat with one another or bask in the California sun.

As the action began, Eugene and I split up to maximize our all-access photography credentials. In certain corners, like the top of the world-famous Corkscrew, Laguna’s terrain allowed me to perch almost near enough to touch the riders’ leathers as they swept by. The bikes were so shiny, their engines spoke of such daring, and that acrid exhaust filled my nostrils. Best parade ever.

Laguna Seca
Mick Doohan drops his Honda NSR500 into the Corkscrew, where photographers could get very close. Photo by the author

Then I started worrying about my amateur appearance. Would youth and lack of serious camera gear betray me? I tried to relax and learn from the professionals. I carefully observed how they chose angles and timing, hoping for something extraordinary. In the days before digital, we exposed lots of film and hoped for the best.

Eugene and I reconnected often at the main media tent to relish the busy scene made more interesting by international flavor. A variety of languages could be overheard as journalists from around the globe covered this sole American round of the World Championship.

As we devoured complimentary box lunches, high-quality press kits filled with glossy photos began appearing like party gift bags. Hats, notebooks, and other promotional swag abounded. I greedily grabbed one of everything and, like a shameless tourist, donned a garish pink Honda cap.

Heat of Battle

The story on track was looking familiar as Rainey dominated practice. He masterfully prepared his Yamaha to run fastest on the capricious cold tires and full fuel load that spooked others at race start. Rainey’s plan was to break away early to dispirit the competition. Make them give up hope.

Four-time world champion Eddie Lawson often employed psychological warfare from the other direction, running quickest at the end of events while rivals suffered fatigue and waning traction. Unfortunately, Lawson was off the pace in a development year for his Italian Cagiva team. Suzuki’s ever jovial Kevin Schwantz struggled all weekend in search of rear-end grip.

Laguna Seca
Kevin Schwantz guides his Suzuki into an extreme lean angle through the double-apex Turn 2 at Laguna Seca. Photo by the author.

The factory Honda squad always had a chance with their demon of power-sliding at the controls. Australian Mick Doohan enjoyed leveraging his distinctive sideways body position to get the NSR500 spinning and howling, but we wondered if his tire could endure that abuse on such a tight circuit.

Laguna Seca
Mick Doohan, his girlfriend, and 250cc ace Luca Cadalora await the start of a press conference. Photo by the author.

Prospects for a challenge at the front likely fell to Rainey’s new teammate, John Kocinski.

Kocinski had undeniable natural talent and ample mental fortitude thanks to his successful 250 title campaign the previous season. Both Californians were pupils of Grand Prix maverick Kenny Roberts, training together at Roberts’ famed Modesto ranch, where riding 100cc bikes flat-track style kept everyone sharp.

Kocinski’s colorful character added to the intrigue. “Little John” liked expensive men’s fashion, and his fastidious nature even drew ribbing from team boss Roberts. When a Spanish rider bought Kocinski’s used motorhome, he complained the curtains had shrunk from over-laundering.

At Saturday’s headlining press conference, Kocinski made things clear. “Don’t bet against me,” he said with a seriousness characteristic of champions. “I’m going out there tomorrow to prove I’m king of this place.”

Laguna Seca
John Kocinski allows the front wheel of his YZR500 to loft as he transitions his body for the next turn. Photo by the author.

Eugene and I had arrived early for prime seats at the press conference, still in disbelief that we were about to address these titans. Alas, dreams of investigative glory quickly dissipated. My mind went blank under the pressure. I managed only tepid, conservative questions met by bland, professional answers, especially from Honda’s Wayne Gardner, who seemed to regard the assembly with a casual disdain.

Then a reporter behind me asked Gardner about his two consecutive crashes in Turn 6, and the mood suddenly became much livelier.

“You gotta be a real dick to ask a question like that,” Gardner mused. He turned to fellow Australian and teammate Doohan to back him up. “Don’t you have to be a real dick to ask that?”

Doohan smiled nervously. The reporter was now beet red, wishing he were somewhere else. After a bit more grumbling, Gardner furnished a terse reply about staying focused. As the press corps continued to murmur, I recalled watching videos of Gardner riding post-race victory laps, giving the universal “piss off” gesture to his competitors.

It’s Better to Burnout Than Fade Away

There was one more event on the afternoon schedule: a public burnout contest. With no idea what to expect from this hooliganism, I certainly wasn’t going to miss it.

Many of these bikes bore witness to their owners’ mania. Customizations included wheelie bars, ear-splitting pipes, and of course, massive rear tires. Not their first rodeo. Even more entertaining were those dressed in mischievous attire. My favorite was the Grim Reaper on a classic Kawasaki.

Laguna Seca
The Grim Reaper lights up his Kawasaki during Saturday night’s trackside burnout contest. Photo by the author.

The most skillful burnouts included working up through the gears and spinning sideways, painting a full circle onto the concrete. Roasting the rubber until it popped brought a roar from the large crowd.

Other photographers hung back against the grandstand fence, but I had learned something about angles. I strolled out near the marshals to frame contestants against the boisterous audience. A perfect backdrop. One of the workers handed me a beer as I snapped a few choice pictures. Life was good.

Laguna Seca
Spectators and photographers watch as a rider on a Kawasaki with a wheelie bar does a burnout. Photo by the author.

We took in Monterey’s vibe after dark. Normally quiet and conservative – known for golf, seafood, and sanitized-for-your-convenience tourism – the city was transformed into a scene from The Wild One as thousands of bikes streamed in from across the country.

We’re not just talking crotch rockets. There were just as many hell-raisers on Harleys and other raucous low-riders. Downtown Alvarado Street became an impromptu dragstrip where all the rowdies could be seen and heard well into the night.

Laguna Seca Flag Drop

On Sunday, the time for fine-tuning was over. At the green flag, Schwantz and Rainey bumped while powering side-by-side over the hill, but by Turn 3, Rainey was in the zone, executing perfect lines in a razor-sharp dance of man and machine.

Laguna Seca
“Stormin’ Kevin Schwantzkopf” led Mick Doohan into Turn 5 during Sunday’s race but would fade to third at the checkered flag. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

All eyes were on Kocinski carefully working his way into second place and a clear view of his teammate’s tailpipe by lap six. Rainey’s strategy would pay off once again, however. His imposing 4-second lead seemed to rattle Kocinski, who grabbed too much throttle out of Turn 2 and was slammed to the asphalt.

Laguna Seca
Kocinski runs to pick up his downed Yamaha after crashing at the exit of Turn 2 during the race. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

He instantly sprang up and sprinted for his bike. Watching from the media center balcony, I started screaming into my voice recorder, and Eugene was perfectly placed below to get the money shot: a photo of Kocinski desperately trying to bend his Yamaha back into shape.

Laguna Seca
Kocinski desperately tries to bend his YZR500 back into shape after highsiding himself and his bike onto the asphalt. Photo by Eugene Leydiker.

Rainey sped away, and Doohan provided entertainment on his way to second place. Surely the weekend’s most astonishing sight was his Honda laying down 50-foot black streaks over Turn 1 at top speed, often with the front wheel simultaneously pawing the air. Gardner was decidedly less spectacular as he ran off course in Turn 6 for the third year in a row, though he stayed on two wheels this time.

Kocinski did not hang around to congratulate the winner. Infuriated by his mistake, he tried speeding away on the shoulder of Laguna’s exit road in his rental car. When stopped by police, Kocinski reportedly deployed the old “Do you know who the <bleep> I am?” gambit. This ended in his arrest. Three weeks later, a British reporter made the mistake of opening a Kocinski interview with: “I understand you had a run-in with the local constabulary?”

Laguna Seca
Champagne flows freely from the winner’s rostrum after the 500cc final. Photo by the author.

At the end of the weekend, we didn’t want to leave. This was now holy ground, a sprawling cathedral for what was fast becoming my religion. I’d even spent time with writer “Nasty” Nick Ienatsch, whose magazine articles had pulled me into the sport. Thrilled that Ienatsch was my first official interview, I listened raptly as he described privateer racing efforts on a 250 GP bike. Would this kick off my own journalism career?

Laguna Seca
Motojournalist Nick Ienatsch chats with family and friends next to his Del Amo Yamaha TZ250 prior to a practice session. Photo by the author.

My paper’s sports guy was enthusiastic for a big spread, but the editor cut our final layout down to one page. I pressed onward, eager to build on my momentum. I soon began writing for more appreciative audiences in larger publications.

But those are tales for another day. First and foremost, I remain a huge fan, especially of the guys who did it by feel alone.

The post Rubbing Elbows With GP Heroes at Laguna Seca Raceway first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Moshe K. Levy | Ep. 44 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

Ep 44 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast Moshe K. Levy
Moshe K. Levy with a few of the motorcycles in his eclectic stable.

Our guest on Episode 44 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast is Moshe K. Levy, a motorcycle journalist also known as Moto Mouth Moshe. Moshe is a renaissance man in the motorcycle world. He’s written hundreds of articles and columns for motorcycle magazines, including RiderAmerican RiderMotorcycle Consumer NewsBMW Owner’s NewsOn the LevelAmerican IronBackroads, and others. Moshe owns and rides all kinds of bikes, everything from mopeds to BMWs to Harley-Davidsons. He restores old mopeds and motorcycles, he tests products, he’s a marketing executive at a technology company, and he’s a family man. We talk to Moshe about his protracted struggle with symptoms of long Covid, which prevented him from riding motorcycles. He found his way back from the abyss on a Honda Trail 125, which he wrote about in the February 2022 issue of Rider (link below). We also talk about how he got started writing for motorcycle magazines, the bikes he has in his garage, and what he loves most about motorcycles.
LINKS: Moto Mouth Moshe website, Moto Mouth Moshe on YouTube, You Meet the Healthiest People on a Honda

You can listen to Episode 43 on iTunesSpotify, and SoundCloud, or via the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage. Please subscribe, leave us a 5-star rating, and tell your friends! Scroll down for a list of previous episodes.

Visit the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage to check out previous episodes:

The post Moshe K. Levy | Ep. 44 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Can Akkaya | Ep. 43 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

Superbike-Coach Can Akkaya Episode 43 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast
Can Akkaya of Superbike-Coach

Our guest on Episode 43 of the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast is Can Akkaya, the founder and lead instructor at Superbike-Coach, a motorcycle training company based near Sacramento, California. Can hails from Germany, and in the 1980s and ‘90s he raced in the German Track Trophy, German IDM, Dutch Open, and European Championship. After retiring from racing, he was a test rider for a Ducati team in Germany and worked as a track instructor. Can and his family moved to the United States in 2008, and he started the Superbike-Coach school in 2009. Superbike-Coach teaches a wide range of classes on cornering, body positioning, getting your knee down, riding with a passenger, supermoto, how to race, and even how to wheelie. We talk to Can about his racing background, his teaching philosophy, why his on-track training classes make students better street riders, and which of his classes are most popular.

LINKS: Superbike-Coach.com

You can listen to Episode 43 on iTunesSpotify, and SoundCloud, or via the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage. Please subscribe, leave us a 5-star rating, and tell your friends! Scroll down for a list of previous episodes.

Visit the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast webpage to check out previous episodes:

The post Can Akkaya | Ep. 43 Rider Magazine Insider Podcast first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Nowhere is Safe | A Motorcycle Journalist Rides Through Ukraine 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

This report from Ukraine is by Neale Bayly, a motojournalist and photographer with more than 20 years under his belt. He also founded the nonprofit Wellspring International Outreach in 2011 with a mission to “bring aid and attention to the abandoned and at-risk children throughout the world.” Bayly recently returned from a three-week, 6,600-km (approx. 4,100 miles) motorcycle trip across Europe and into war-torn Ukraine, which he described as a “beautiful country with incredible people standing resiliently against a brutal regime intent on their destruction.” 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

The idea for the ride came about a few days into the war back in February when my friend, Kiran Ridley, called me from Ukraine. Covering the war from Lviv in Western Ukraine, he was using a cheap Chinese motorcycle to navigate the 30-km lines of refugees fleeing Ukraine at the Polish border. The access he was getting to people and their stories with the motorcycle was a game changer, but the bike was running badly, and he was improperly dressed for the winter weather and alone in this incredibly high stress environment.  

Ukraine Neale Bayly
Kiran Ridley photo by Neale Bayly

As the phone line went dead after that first phone call, my mind went into overdrive. Images of the destruction and devastation the Russians were inflicting on the civilian population was keeping me awake at night, and after a couple more calls, a plan was set. 

Oleg Satanovsky at BMW Motorrad USA had a pair of F 850 GS Adventures lined up in Munich with hard bags and navigation. Matthew Miles provided Rev’It protective clothing, Jeff Weil at Arai sent helmets, and my long-term donors jumped in with support. With the easy part done, we went to work on securing the myriad of details that remained: international press passes, approval from the Ukrainian military, high-grade plates for bulletproof vests, fixers, hotels, and most importantly, deciding on the stories we would chase. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

Related Story: 2019 BMW F 850 GS and F 750 GS | Road Test Review

Ukraine: ‘Nowhere is safe when the Russians start shelling’ 

In total, we spent close to three weeks in Ukraine, riding from Lviv to Kyiv, Bucha, Irpin, and Hostomel, scenes of the worst atrocities early in the war. Then we rode to the seaport of Odessa. At times, we were based out of local hotels for a few days and chased a wide variety of stories. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

We toured a Soviet-era coal mine to learn how the energy front is being fought 1,500 feet below the surface of the earth, and we spent the day with young soldiers recovering from recent amputations at a horse therapy farm. We also visited a 16th-century monastery housing refugees. Mirroring the work of the monastery 80 years ago during the holocaust, their presence is kept secret to avoid the potential for shelling. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

We hitched a ride on an old wooden rowboat from a couple of fishermen in Vylkove, 25 miles from Snake Island, the 42-acre Ukrainian outpost in the Black Sea that garnered worldwide attention early in the war when Ukrainian soldiers refused to surrender despite calls from a Russian warship to put down their arms.

The two fishermen we met have lost their livelihoods, as they are no longer able to fish their normal waters. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

This was just one example of when we left our motorcycles and traveled in the car with our “fixer,” Andriy (last name withheld, and specific locations are not provided for safety and security reasons), when the places we were visiting were too “hot” – the local term for areas receiving active missile strikes. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly
Ukraine Neale Bayly

Mykolaiv was probably the most tense. While documenting an apartment complex where a series of strikes had just taken place, we got caught in the city as the warning sounded in advance of another air strike. All we could do was put on our vests and shelter in place in a local park, having made the decision to be as far away from the buildings as possible. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

But realistically, nowhere is safe when the Russians start shelling, a fact that was brought home a few days later while working a story about the winter crop harvest outside of Odessa.

Ukraine Neale Bayly

The air alert app went off on Andriy’s phone, and we learned of a massive series of strikes on Vinnytsia, a city that hadn’t been hit since March and was providing refuge for many Ukrainians escaping the front lines. We had planned our lunch stop on one of the historic, shady tree-lined streets at a nice restaurant earlier in the day, but that changed in an instant. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

We rode for Vinnytsia, deep in thought but with no idea what to expect. The smooth two-lane highway cut through beautiful fields of sunflowers, grain, and corn, and white clouds floated on a tranquil blue sky. It was a stark contrast to the scene we found in Vinnytsia, which was indescribable for so many reasons.

Ukraine Neale Bayly

Even as fireman fought the last fires in the charred remains of the buildings, World Central Kitchen was on-site handing out water and meals to people rendered homeless by the strikes. Cleanup crews were hard at work, and all the bodies had been removed – just not quite all the parts, which made me glad we had skipped lunch. 

The physical destruction was mind blowing, the scale of it beyond comprehension, and the stoic resolve of the emergency workers clearing the site humbling. We saw cars being lifted onto flatbed trucks by machines and war crimes inspectors documenting.

Ukraine Neale Bayly

News crews broadcast that 35 people were dead and 65 badly injured to an audience tired of the war and waiting for their next media addiction to scroll through. 

A temporary calm, the smile from a child, and the familiar darkness 

The following days were spent in a calmer region as we rode deep into the Carpathian Mountains along the Romanian border. We had connected with a Ukrainian film crew that wanted to film a couple of Brits riding BMW motorcycles through their country, and they had identified an old Soviet listening station on top of the mountains for us to photograph. Long abandoned, it remains as a testament to the Soviet occupation the Ukrainian people endured before independence. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

Traveling with our crew, smooth two-lane highway turned to heavily patched, broken tarmac and eventually to dirt. The mountains rose up, and we rode through scenery at times rivaling the Alps. Hour after hour as we rode back in time, the road deteriorated, and we had to abandon the car and rent a local Mitsubishi four-wheel drive. We fought our way up a narrow dirt trail, eventually having to park the BMWs and pile into the Mitsubishi, the bikes’ road tires just not allowing any more progress. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

Our fixer down below found a guest house and a homecooked meal for our return from the surreal photo session on the top of the mountains. Late into the night, we broke bread with our friends, dirty and tired but happy from an incredible day.

As we ate, we learned from our producer, Omel, of life under Soviet control, the democracy and freedom they had built in Ukraine, and how they were again fighting against this massive totalitarian regime hellbent on destroying them and their way of life. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

Out of the Carpathians, we had one last story waiting at a children’s hospital in Lviv. There we met an 11-year-old boy named Leo, a refugee from Severodonetsk, where the constant bombing he had endured left him unable to walk. He had also just undergone surgery to remove a tumor on his leg. He and his mother told us their story of escape, and we were left speechless.

Thanks to all the donors, we were able to leave a check for $10,000, and it felt like Leo really enjoyed hanging out with a film crew and a couple of dirty, hairy British journalists on motorcycles. 

Ukraine Neale Bayly

After the heart-warming meeting, wheeling back to the hospital, the air alert warning howled across the city in the warm afternoon air as Leo turned to wave one last goodbye. If the smile on his face was the sun that lit our day, the thought that after all he has endured, this 11-year-old boy could never be safe there, even in a children’s hospital, cast a shadow across my heart that sent me spiraling into the darkness that so often came as my mind tried to comprehend the brutality of this war.

For more information on Wellspring International Outreach or to donate, click here.

The post Nowhere is Safe | A Motorcycle Journalist Rides Through Ukraine  first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com