The XDiavel Nera’s Siam Red saddle. (Ducati/)

A mere re-skinning of an existing streetbike model is usually met with both raised eyebrows and eye rolls. But Italian design is more than skin deep. And even when it isn’t, it’s still…well, Italian.

Limited to just 500 examples, Ducati’s XDiavel Nera is a made-in-Italy design collaboration between Poltrona Frau and the House of Ducati. Poltrona Frau’s Interiors in Motion division, which works with upholstery, seating, and other leather-wrapped details, has done design work on the insides of McLarens, Porsches, and Lamborghinis. Now it lends its sensibilities to the black-on-black livery and seat design of Ducati’s newest XDiavel limited offering.

The Nera’s reworked saddle is slightly wider and comes with an optional backrest. It’s also made of Pelle Frau, a proprietary handcrafted leather. Five different saddle colors are available: Siam Red, Steel Blue, Cemento, India, and Selva. Each color saddle is accented by “X” motifs engraved throughout via laser. Buyers also get an exclusive key ring and documentation, both made of Pelle Frau leather in the color of their choice. An exclusive helmet is also available.

As a machine, the XDiavel itself is much the same beastly Bolognan cruiser you’ve known since 2011. Mechanically it’s identical to the XDiavel S and XDiavel Dark. Pricing in the US will start at $29,795 and go up from there. But lest you think the XDiavel Nera is just a conspicuous design exercise intended to show off the buyer’s disposable income, consider this new seat.

Despite the same size, the passenger seat padding seems more generous. And that backrest? Ducati and Poltrona Frau were clearly thinking of that other very Italian exercise: Bringing your campagna, or compagno, along for the ride.

Another of the XDiavel Nera colors: <i>Selva</i>, Italian for “forest.” (ducati/)

The XDiavel Nera’s black-on-black color scheme helps the <i>India</i>, or brown, saddle stand out. (Ducati/)

Brothers in arms, and handlebars. Design inspiration by Poltrona Frau. (Ducati/)

The “X” motif is laser-engraved in each seat regardless of color choice. (Ducati/)

A backrest and exclusive “jet helmet” are available to 500 lucky XDiavel Nera owners. (Ducati/)

2022 Ducati XDiavel Nera Technical Specifications and Price

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

The World Raid now gets 250mm (9.8 inches) of clearance, with 20mm (0.8 inch) of additional suspension travel, front and rear. (Yamaha Motorsports/)

The midsize adventure segment just got a little more chippy. And American riders could be the beneficiary. But for the time being, only European riders get to throw a leg over a new member of the Ténéré family and get properly lost in the forbidding terrain of their choice. The new 2022 Yamaha Ténéré 700 World Raid takes the middleweight ADV benchmark and sets the bar just a bit higher.

It does this by stacking a few more bars in the fuel gauge. The Ténéré World Raid now carries 23 liters, or 6.1 gallons, courtesy of dual side-mounted fuel tanks. This is a classic Paris-Dakar setup. And it’s a shot at KTM’s 790 and 890 Adventure models which have similarly low and split fuel tanks. Split tanks equal less fuel slosh, while the lower placement of both fuel and fuel pump keeps mass centralized and the center of gravity low. A range of 500 kilometers, or 310 miles, is claimed.

A new, flatter seat allows more jockeying and weight shifting by a rider’s derrière, while a new TFT display (with USB Type-A) integrates MyRide app functionality with a choice of Explorer, Street, or Raid themed screens. The Raid screen? It displays twin tripmeters communicating distance to the next waypoint. Just like rally racing.

Front and rear suspension get an extra 20mm (0.8 inch) of travel, courtesy of new KYB forks with 230mm (9.1 inches) of travel, and a redesigned 220mm (8.7 inches) rear. A new windscreen is 15mm (0.6 inch) taller. It even gets larger footrests, all the better to keep riders reliably planted on rough terrain. And when terrain bites back, a new three-piece aluminum engine guard stands guard 250mm (9.8 inches) off the ground.

The engine is unchanged. Yamaha’s 689cc DOHC liquid-cooled twin-cylinder CP2 mill still puts down 72 hp with its 270-degree crank.

Lastly, the Ténéré 700 World Raid will be available May 2022, with a choice of Icon Blue or Midnight Black livery and colors. Of course, these fine colors will only see Europe—not the land of the Red, White, and Blue. For now, the World Raid won’t be raiding the non-European world. Will it come to American shores? Stay tuned.

Dual fuel caps may not add functionality, but they look the business of rally racing. Also note the new Öhlins steering damper. (Yamaha Motorsports/)

Three ABS modes keep things in check. Mode 1 is full ABS, Mode 2 engages only the front, while Mode 3 disconnects all ABS. (Yamaha Motorsports/)

A 5-inch TFT display now comes with USB Type-A and connectivity with Yamaha’s MyRide App. (Yamaha Motorsports/)

Not into the traditional Icon Blue color and livery? Try the Midnight Black. (Yamaha Motorsports/)

2022 Yamaha Ténéré 700 World Raid Technical Specifications and Price

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

2022 Honda CBR500R in Sword Silver Metallic. (Honda/)

As with the CB500X and CB500F, Honda’s 2022 CBR500R sportbike receives fresh chassis components to help improve handling and feel at the bars. The midsize sportbike will be available this month in Honda dealerships in either Grand Prix Red or Sword Silver Metallic with a $7,199 MSRP.

The 2022 Honda CBR500R returns with better suspension and braking components. (Honda/)

If you’ve peeked at the previous two model write-ups, you’ll have a pretty good idea what’s in store for the CBR500R: a new inverted 41mm Showa SFF-BP fork, a lighter swingarm, and new cast aluminum wheels. Honda intends to improve handling of all its 500-level machines and give them a more intuitive feel, and the changes certainly show promise.

2022 Honda CBR500R in Grand Prix Red. (Honda/)

The entry-level sportbike also gets the brake package upgrade and now sports dual 296mm discs at the front with twin four-piston radial-mount calipers.

New cast aluminum wheels help reduce weight. (Honda/)

Other than that, the CBR500R is mostly still standard 2021 issue, from its 471cc parallel-twin engine to its Pro-Link rear suspension setup, slip and assist clutch, buttery-smooth transmission, LED headlights, and standard ABS.

View from the CBR500R cockpit. (Honda/)

If you want to see how the CBR500R fared against the Ninja 300 back when the Honda was fresh from the design room, be sure to check out this head-to-head comparison. There’s been an update to the CBR500R since then, in 2016, but many of those changes were aimed at improving the cosmetic and creature-comfort appeal of the machine.

The 2022 Honda CBR500R starts at $7,199. (Honda/)

2022 Honda CBR500R ABS Technical Specifications and Price

Better handling and lighter weight. (Honda/)

Honda’s CB500R promises to be even more nimble in 2022. (Honda/)

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

The new 2022 Honda CB500F in Matte Gray Metallic. (Honda/)

As with the 2022 CB500X midsize adventure bike, Honda’s 2022 CB500F naked bike will come with a few notable chassis updates that promise to make a positive impact on handling. The new machine will be available in Honda dealers this month starting at $6,699, $200 more than last year’s model.

A lighter swingarm features on the new CB500F. (Honda/)

Changes are the same as we’ve seen on the CB500X, including a new 41mm Showa SFF-BP inverted fork, providing improved rigidity and responsiveness. This change is complemented by a lighter swingarm and an updated braking package at the front; the new brake setup features two 296mm discs and four-piston, radial-mount calipers. Updated cast aluminum wheels help to shave weight as well while helping toward improved handling overall.

The major update to the CB500F is a new inverted Showa SFF-BP fork. (Honda/)

This popular streetbike retains its 471cc parallel-twin engine, slip and assist clutch, and Pro-Link rear shock with nine-position preload adjustment.

Simple, digital instrumentation gives you all the information you need. (Honda/)

This bike has come a long way in the looks department since its debut for the 2013 model year, and carries its more grown-up aesthetic into 2022 in a single Matte Gray Metallic colorway.

The 2022 Honda CB500F starts at $6,699. (Honda/)

2022 Honda CB500F ABS Technical Specifications and Price

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

New motorcycles have always had a weird relationship with fuel efficiency. Streetbikes have been achieving miles-per-gallon ratings of 50-plus for 70 years or more. If you count Groms, Z125s, and Cubs—and we certainly do—mpg ratings regularly hit three figures. But these figures generally get ignored in favor of others. Horsepower and torque, not mpg, get the sexy spot next to the bike pic.

Enter real-world riders. They ride to work as much as they work to ride. Coasting on responsible risk-taking and the love of spending time on anything two-wheeled, they care about things like fuel efficiency. They’re in on that small secret: Motorcycles are almost as easy on the wallet as they are fun. Saving the Earth, along with whatever gas is left in it, is just part of the charm.

We’ve covered great fuel-efficient motorcycles in the past (read our article on the 5 Most Fuel Efficient Motorcycles You Can Own). But it’s time for an updated accounting of the great mpg contenders. As we all know, there are factory numbers and then there are real-world numbers. Factory mpg figures are noted as “claimed,” with all other mpg figures taken from Fuelly.com (with varying year models) for the sake of consistency and reliability.

The smallest of Honda’s miniMOTO family scores the lowest—a mere 110 mpg, sorry. (Mark McIntyre/)

Notable: Honda miniMOTO Series

Honda’s miniMOTO segment is a master class on minimalism. Aside from their obvious diminutive charms, these bikes also claim mpg in the three-figure range. The Cub and Monkey supposedly top 188 mpg, while the Grom is content at 134 mpg. The Trail 125 ABS hangs back at 112 mpg, while the Navi gets “only” 110.3 mpg.

None of these numbers are especially new or noteworthy. Think these bikes don’t belong on a list of motorcycles? The hooligan tendencies of many Grom riders say otherwise. And in the spirit of healthy skepticism toward authority, each miniMOTO bike is a middle finger to OPEC. Ride on.

Honda’s NC750X takes fuel efficiency seriously as part of its “New Concept” DNA. (Jeff Allen/)

Notable: Honda NC700X/NC750X

Honda pulled a Honda back in 2012 when it released the NC700X. The “New Concept” meant taking a liquid-cooled 670cc parallel twin and tilting it forward 62 degrees, creating a 21-liter cavern (some call it “storage space”) in front of the rider that could fit up to two helmets. Ultimate practicality and sensible design suddenly seemed like a very new concept indeed.

A claimed 64 mpg gave way to a rating in the mid-to-high 50s with aggressive riding, but early reviewers easily hit 73-plus mpg without much effort, and 80 mpg isn’t out of the question. 2018 saw the upgraded NC750X increase to 745cc, with an additional 1K rpm to play with. This reduced mpg to the mid-50s with real-world riding. Still want more? Ditch the New Concept and pick up a CB500X, which averages between 62–68 mpg IRL.

Honda’s Africa Twin took the ADV mpg crown by a whisker—a mud-soaked whisker, that is. (Honda/)

1,000cc+ Adventure: Honda Africa Twin

Among 1,000cc and bigger adventure bikes, one stood a mile ahead of the others in its class. One lowly mile, that is. The Honda Africa Twin scored a real-world 42–46 mpg, slightly ahead of the venerable BMW GS and Kawasaki Versys. Claimed numbers were few, mostly buried in dealer materials and absent from official websites or brochures. Yamaha gets a gold star for putting a claimed 43-mpg figure smack-dab in the middle of the Super Ténéré landing page.

Oddly, 1,000cc-plus adventure motorcycles seem ideal for mpg-centric marketing and messaging, or at least for mentions of mileage range and fuel capacity numbers. But those are buried in the specs. Want a number that stands out? Try 6.1 gallons. That’s the 2022 Ténéré’s fuel capacity, best in class besides the upgraded Africa Twin Adventure ES models, which hold 6.5 gallons.

Yamaha Super Ténéré ES: 43 mpg (claimed)/41–44 mpg

Kawasaki Versys 1000 LT: 42–44 mpg

Suzuki V-Strom 1000: 38–44 mpg

Harley-Davidson Pan America 1250: 46 mpg (claimed)/31–33 mpg (Cycle World review)

Ducati Multistrada 1200: 34–40 mpg

BMW R 1250 GS: 50 mpg (claimed)/41–45 mpg

This cruiser is a light drinker—the Yamaha Bolt tops the 750–1,000cc Cruiser MPG category. (Yamaha/)

750–1,000cc Cruisers: Yamaha Bolt R-Spec

Marketing and branding materials aside, the competitive midsize cruiser category is a great place to crunch gas numbers. Specs and figures matter to many of these riders, and mpg numbers are a frequent topic on forums and boards. Coming out on top? The Yamaha Bolt R-Spec, at a claimed 51 mpg. Real-world numbers on Fuelly.com are even better, an average of 52–54 mpg.

To be fair, the figures below are similar, no real surprises. But again, another number tells the story: 5.3. That’s the size of the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 fuel tank, in gallons. That’s 2 whole gallons more than the Scout, XL883, and Bolt. No replacement for displacement, indeed.

Yamaha Bolt R-Spec (942cc): 52–54 mpg

Honda Shadow Phantom (745cc): 48–53 mpg

Honda Rebel 1100 (1,084cc): 45 mpg

Suzuki Boulevard C50 (805cc): 46–48 mpg

Kawasaki Vulcan (903cc): 44–47 mpg

Indian Scout Sixty (999cc): 44–47 mpg

Harley-Davidson XL883 (883cc): 43–50 mpg

Husqvarna’s bold design still has one classic angle—fantastic fuel economy. (Husqvarna/)

Notable: Husqvarna Vitpilen 401

Does the average Vitpilen owner care about mpg? Did they look at a bike with exactly two practical accessories (footpegs) and say, “Gee, I bet it sips gas too”? Likely not. But there’s no hiding it. Fuelly.com lists an average of 59 mpg, with some owners hitting 73 mpg. Twist your wrist all you want; just try getting below 40 mpg. The liquid-cooled single-cylinder 373cc powerplant is no heavy drinker.

They thought they were showing off rad moto-design while air-washing their beards and their faded buzz cuts. But Vitpilen riders were secretly saving the Earth too. Ah, the irony. But in all fairness, the fun-per-dollar ratio also includes fuel efficiency. It wouldn’t be a (sorta) Swedish-esque motorcycle otherwise. Skål.

Honorable mentions to the KTM 390 Duke, which averages 57–60 mpg.

Bologna may not crow about it, but the Panigale V2 beats all sportbike comers in fuel efficiency. (Ducati/)

1,000cc Sportbike: Ducati Panigale V2

Searching for the mpg numbers of sportbikes is basically pretty pointless. Yet eclipsed by all the stoplight-revving and throttle-twisting are real-world reports and even an official number or two. The Ducati Panigale V2 earns a claimed 39.2 mpg, with 45–50 mpg reported by Fuelly.com contributors. As it’s the lone twin in a sea of fours, this makes sense.

This data exercise disappears the second anyone blips a throttle. But mpg could be part of sporting fun, for however long as internal combustion is still with us. Forget stoplight-racing; just compare instant-fuel-consumption readings after 20-second burnouts. Sporting fun for everyone.

Suzuki GSX-R1000: 38–41 mpg

Yamaha YZF-R1: 33 mpg (claimed)/37–41 mpg

Honda CBR1000RR: 36–40 mpg

Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R: 35–38 mpg

BMW S 1000 R: 35 mpg (claimed)/36–38 mpg

Want to see the diesel-powered HDT M103M1 up close? Visit a museum, like the National Motorcycle Museum, in Anamosa, Iowa. (Anders T. Carlson/)

Honorable Mention: Hayes Diversified Technology M1030M1

You’ll have an impossible time finding one, but it deserves a mention. Built using a KLR650, the charmingly named HDT M103M1 served with the Marines and several NATO-country fleets. As such, it had to be able to run, as all military vehicles must, on “battlefield-ready fuels” like diesel or jet fuel. Bonus: It also runs on plain kerosene. With diesel, it gets a claimed 95-plus mpg.

The magic comes from a naturally aspirated liquid-cooled DOHC 584cc single-cylinder engine with four valves per cylinder. It makes 28 hp and gets a wide range of torque from 1,500 to 7,000 rpm. Anamosa, Iowa’s National Motorcycle Museum hosts the example seen above, with heat-shielding panniers and bodywork helping the bike to evade infrared surveillance.

Singles & Twins, 300cc: BMW G 310 GS, Honda CBR300R, Honda Rebel 300, Kawasaki Versys-X 300, Kawasaki Ninja 400

Quite a bit of ink and pixels have already gone to these fine bikes, so let’s jump right to the figures.

BMW G 310 GS: 64–66 mpg

Honda CBR300R: 71 mpg (claimed)

Honda Rebel 300: 78 mpg (claimed)

Kawasaki Versys-X 300: 60 mpg

Kawasaki Ninja 400: 55–59 mpg

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

2022 Harley-Davidson Low Rider ST in Vivid Black. (Harley-Davidson/)

Harley-Davidson adds the new Low Rider ST to its lineup for 2022, a West Coast custom-inspired Softail packing a 1,923cc Milwaukee-Eight 117 engine and numerous creature comforts ideal for travel. The bike will come in either Vivid Black ($21,749) or Gunship Gray ($22,199). Both options will be available in Harley dealerships starting March 2022.

The 2022 Harley-Davidson Low Rider ST combines custom coolness with traveling chops and a whopping engine. (harley davidson/)

The mill in the Low Rider ST is the same one as in the Street Glide ST and Road Glide ST, and delivers 125 pound-feet of torque at 3,500 rpm. It’s equipped with a high-performance camshaft, a Heavy Breather intake with a forward-facing exposed filter, a 2-into-2 shotgun exhaust, and dual counterbalancers. It’s the largest factory-installed engine available from Harley.

A specially designed frame-mounted fairing gives the Low Rider ST a signature look. (harley-davidson/)

A steel tube frame makes use of the rigid-mount powertrain to improve overall chassis stiffness. The bike is suspended by a single cartridge, 43mm USD fork and a monoshock that’s taller than the setup typically used on the Softail chassis; this provides an extra inch of rear wheel travel and raises seat height by 0.75 inch. The update also provides better lean angle, ground clearance, and enhanced rider comfort.

Packing Harley’s largest factory-installed engine, the Milwaukee-Eight 117. (Harley-Davidson/)

A high handlebar and low-set solo seat add to the “custom” feel of the Low Rider ST. So does the frame-mounted fairing, which features triple fixed split-stream vents and a 6-inch-tall windshield with Dark Smoke tint.

A taller stance is achieved thanks to updates to the rear suspension. (Harley-davidson/)

The Low Rider ST also comes with detachable rigid saddlebags and has a blacked-out style; highlights are a Wingle Black finish on the powertrain, triple clamps, top clamp, tank console, primary cover, and rear fender supports. Elements such as the intake, rocker covers, and handlebar riser are Gloss Black. The bike rolls on 19-inch front and 16-inch rear Radiate cast aluminum wheels in a Matte Dark Bronze finish.

Riders can also choose to upgrade the Low Rider ST with an accessory Harley-Davidson audio powered by Rockford Fosgate system.

Detachable luggage is standard on the Low Rider ST. (harley-davidson/)

“A key element of this model is the frame-mounted fairing, which has a shape inspired by the classic FXRT Sport Glide model fairing favored by West Coast customizers,” Brad Richards, Harley-Davidson vice president of styling and design, said in a company press release. “With a dominant central headlamp flanked by side vents, the genetic connection to the original FXRT remains familiar. The sharper creases and revised proportions in the Low Rider ST fairing provide a look that is intended to be modern, athletic, and aerodynamically superior to the FXRT fairing. The raised fitment of the saddlebags high above the exhaust reinforces the performance of the model—the message being that these bags will not limit lean angle when the bike is pushed to the limit.”

2022 Harley-Davidson Low Rider ST in Gunship Gray. (Harley-Davidson/)

2022 Harley-Davidson Low Rider ST Technical Specifications and Price

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

The 2022 Honda CB500X gets upgraded suspension and braking kit. (Honda/)

Honda reworks the chassis on its entry-level adventure CB500X ABS for 2022, improving handling and stopping power with the updates. The bike will come in a Pearl Organic Green and black colorway and start at $7,199, a $200 price increase over the 2021 model.

The 2022 CB500X ditches the telescopic fork in favor of a new 41mm Showa SFF-BP USD inverted unit, providing a more rigid feel at the front. The front brakes are new as well, upgraded to a two-disc setup for more powerful and precise stopping performance. Honda continues to use a Pro-Link rear suspension kit with nine-stage adjustable preload. The bike gets a new swingarm that’s 2 pounds lighter than last year’s version.

Related: Best Budget-Friendly Beginner Motorcycles

The CB500X will start at $7,199. (Honda/)

The new bike retains the old 471cc liquid-cooled parallel twin engine, still housed within a steel-tube frame. It has a slip-assist clutch, LED lighting, and digital instrument panel, along with 19-inch front and 17-inch rear cast aluminum wheels.

So it’s not much news, but it’s all good news for the CB500X, a bike that’s been a favorite of new riders, commuters, and light-adventure riders since its release for the 2013 model year. During our last encounter, we found it to be a reliable and approachable machine, particularly because of its balanced power delivery, easy handling, and comfortable cockpit.

Related: Best Used Adventure Motorcycles To Buy

The new and improved CB500X will be available in local Honda dealerships starting this month.

2022 Honda CB500X ABS Technical Specifications and Price

Related: These Are The Top Small Adventure Motorcycles For Sale In 2019

Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com

The quiet, lovely streets of Playa de Belen, Colombia, nestled within areas of strife near the Venezuelan border. (Janelle Kaz/)

As twilight fell in one of northern Colombia’s sleepy colonial towns, I turned the corner and was immediately surrounded by five military personnel, geared in combat boots and camo. One of the men yelled for me to turn around and put my hands up on the wall behind me. Doing so, the only woman among them approached me, using her boot to slide my feet apart so that she could give me a thorough, aggressive pat down. The air was cool. It had been a perfect sunset with vibrant, soft orange clouds against the darkening indigo sky.

It was only a few minutes earlier that I ordered an ice cream cone from a humble tienda. With my face pressed up against the warm stone wall, I was now gazing at the vanilla soft-serve in my right hand, glistening under the glow of a nearby streetlamp. I couldn’t help but silently laugh to myself while my heart pounded in my chest. “What will they do to me?” I wondered, watching the ice cream melt as gravity slowly pulled it over the edge of the cone.

Related: Motorcycle Misadventures: Will You Face These Adversities on the Road?

They call her “La Negra.” This dog followed me around all day, into cafes and restaurants, up the mountain to the viewpoint, and back to my guesthouse. She is loved by the whole town. (Janelle Kaz/)

Los Estoraques, a unique natural area in Northeastern Colombia with strange sandstone formations. Call local guide Kevin at +573133653853. (Janelle Kaz/)

Related: The Problems of Motorcycle Travel No One Talks About

Sandstone walls form a gateway into the waterless beach of Bethlehem, the Playa de Belen, in Northeast Colombia. (Janelle Kaz/)

I had arrived in the National Heritage town of Playa de Belen just the evening before, ascending a curvy mountain road and careening through a narrow corridor of yellow rock walls. I was there to see Los Estoraques, the strange sandstone formations named after a medicinal tree that was overharvested to the point of local extinction within the last century. Wearing my well-worn leather jacket, the soldier’s hands stopped when she felt my spinal armor, asking me what it was with a suspicious tone. Her face was directly behind me, so I simply hollered that it was motorcycle protection. I slowly turned around with my hands still raised to show them that the armor was also in my elbows and shoulders. The man barking orders told me to take my hat off, and while squinting his eyes, leaned in closer to inspect my face and demanded to see my documents.

I did my best to eat some of my rapidly liquifying dessert before digging into my hip bag for my passport, studying their faces as I attempted a laugh and a casual apology, “que pena,” for having to deal with my not-so-frozen treat throughout the ordeal.

Related: Best Motorcycle Riding Traffic Safety Tips

They had just flipped the fluorescent lights on the church, sending sparks down onto the street before I took this photo. With ice cream in hand, snapping this photo seems to be what appeared suspicious to the military personnel keeping an eye on me. (Janelle Kaz/)

Related: Motorcycle Riding Tips – Touring During COVID Pandemic

From inside a local restaurant, with La Negra at my feet. Motorcycles are the most common method of transportation around here; I hope you enjoy the many photos I took of them throughout the town. (Janelle Kaz/)

Flipping through my passport, they asked what I was doing there, who told me to come there, how I got there, and where my motorcycle was — two separate times (it was parked at my guesthouse). I did my best to stay outwardly calm even though I could feel my body trembling with that familiar, electric surge of adrenaline.

Unsatisfied, they wanted to look through the photos on my phone, specifically the one I had taken around the corner. I complied, opening my phone to the most recent photo — that of a dirt bike with the illuminated iglesia behind it. He snatched the phone from my hands and began scrolling backwards in time, through images of the sunset and my walk through town, ceasing to swipe when he arrived at a selfie I had taken next to a ripening bunch of bananas and their large, pendulous flower earlier that day.

I suppose I appeared suspect on that corner, alone, outside of the plaza near the church, leaning up against the wall with my ice cream cone. I did not try to explain to them the somewhat embarrassing reality of why I intentionally hung back–because I prefer not to be stared at while I repeatedly lick something.

Related: Top Motorcycle Safety Tips From A Solo Female Adventurer

More of my local motorcycle photo tour through Playa de Belen. Walking these quaint streets, you can perceive the feelings of respect and affection the locals have with their town and their land by the care they show for their houses and streets. (Janelle Kaz/)

I have no idea what they thought my intentions were, but eventually they let me go, with an apology for bothering me.

Though I avoided that particular corner from then on, I can’t really blame those soldiers for being hyper-vigilant in a red-zone, an area still in conflict due to rebel groups and laden with drug trafficking into neighboring Venezuela. After riding more than 17,000 miles solo in South America, this isn’t the first zona-roja I’ve traveled through. Between the eastern ridge of the Peruvian Andes and the Amazon basin, I was stopped on the road by people with rifles resting on their shoulders, asking for money in exchange for “protecting” the road. They were not police and they were not military– maybe they really were vigilantes keeping the road safe for travelers, or perhaps they were simply armed hustlers seizing an opportunity to take advantage of an area in strife.

This is cocaine country, afterall. The snorted powder alkaloid, extracted from the leaves of the coca plant by using gasoline, sulfuric acid, and cement powder, is not at all how the indigenous have consumed this sacred plant for millenia. The people chew the leaves or drink a tea infusion to help with altitude, for energy (similar to how we use coffee), and nourishment with its high quantity of vitamins, minerals, and protein.

Related: Motorcycle Touring In Colombia—Crossing The Trampoline Of Death

The only foreign tourist; Playa de Belen is one of the more difficult to reach of Colombia’s 17 Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonios), and well worth the journey. (Janelle Kaz/)

I was told I would find Guarapo here, a lightly fermented, effervescent unprocessed cane sugar drink. I expected to buy a bottle of it to take with me, but this <i>caballero</i> filled an aluminum vessel and set it in front of me to drink on the spot. (Janelle Kaz/)

Despite exhaustive efforts and billions of US dollars, Colombia and Peru are producing more cocaine than ever. Keeping substances like cocaine illegal, rather than regulated and taxed, only fuels violence while the powerful rake in the illicit wealth. After more than 50 years of civil war in Colombia that would not have lasted more than a week without profits from the drug trade, and more than 240,000 dead, 7 million internally displaced, it is clear there are those who would rather this “war on drugs” not end.

Change is the only constant in life, whether it be people, landscapes, politics, or the safety of certain roads and regions in Colombia. As anthropologist and author, Wade Davis, describes, Colombia isn’t a place of drugs and violence, it is a land of “colores y cariños,” with an astounding array of natural, cultural, and ecological diversity.

Related: Northern Colombian Treasures—Motorcycling The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta With A Purpose

The best way to experience such vast diversity is while traveling Colombia by motorcycle, from snow-capped volcanoes to coastline to lush jungle and back up again. In addition to unparallelled landscape-diversity, Colombians might just be the friendliest people on the planet. Extremely warm, welcoming, and helpful, Colombians are always offering to help with any directions or route advice you might need. They all talk to each other kindly, and call one another “veci,” for vecino, which means neighbor.  They love to give saludos (respectful salutations) and to talk about anything around them in passing. “This pothole in the road is very dangerous, it just keeps getting worse.

They say a rough stretch of road will teach you more about yourself than a century of quiet. (Janelle Kaz/)

Related: Trapped Abroad On A Motorcycle Trip During Coronavirus

The dirt road leading north out of Playa de Belen, surrounded by wind and rain carved sandstone. Apparently there used to be a cave nearby but it collapsed. (Janelle Kaz/)

I realize I’m lucky to have explored this country more than the majority of its citizens, who for so long were unable to safely move around for fear of armed militia groups, funded by the illegal sale of cocaine. In the countryside, the sight of a foreigner traveling brings about a sense of happiness for the locals, as they recognize it as a sign of progress, a shift towards a more peaceful existence in such beautiful terrain.

Rather than heading any further towards the border of Venezuela, I rode out of Playa de Belen the same way I had come. On the way towards the main road, a section of the PanAmerican Highway called Ruta del Sol, I was stopped by yet another five military personnel — all males this time. I pulled over, slowly, and when I lifted my face shield to talk to them, I heard only audible elation to see that I was female. They didn’t ask to see my documents but instead, had a lot of questions about my motorcycle and my route. They wished me a safe journey after taking a few photos with me.

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The military along the Ocaña-Cucuta road is present to prevent much of the illicit activity that exists around the Venezuelan border. (Janelle Kaz/)

While it’s clear I ventured into an area that does not receive many foreign tourists, and that some areas of Colombia remain off-limits for exploring, there is still an abundance of quaint towns and breathtaking landscapes in which to enjoy sunsets and frozen desserts, preferably while not being frisked.

Sunsets and motorcycles on the outskirts of Playa de Belen, at a local pool hall near my guesthouse, Casa de Campo “El Placer” (highly recommended). (Janelle Kaz/)

The last photo of the military’s swipe before handing me back my cell phone. I guess it was at this point in my photo history that he realized I was, indeed, a tourist. (Janelle Kaz/)

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Source: MotorCyclistOnline.com