Despite a broken wiring loom, Lithuanian motorcycle adventurer Karolis Mieliauskas has successfully competed an epic ride to the coldest place on earth on a Yamaha Tenere.
We published an article in late January about his plans and many readers thought he was crazy to ride 1000km across Siberia in temperatures down to -60C.
Some even suggested the oil in his suspension would freeze!
However, Karolis emailed us to say he had completed the aptly named The Coldest Ride from Yakutsk to Oymyakon, one of the coldest habitable places on earth.
Mind you, it wasn’t -60C, but a relatively balmy -56C!
The Coldest Ride started on February 04, and was scheduled to finish on February 10.
However, Karolis reached his destination two days ahead of schedule, and celebrated with a dip in a frozen river, despite temperatures of -45C.
The endeavour was filmed and will be featured on the BBC Travel Show later in 2019.
Mind games
Karolis says his journey on a single-cylinder Yamaha Tenere across the Road of Bones was a research exercise into what he calls “active meditation”.
Basically, it’s a way of forcing the mind to meditate by subjecting the body to harsh conditions; in this case, the cold.
But for others it is an enlightening experience. Some even refer to an out-of-body experience when the mind takes control of the pain and discomfort, divorcing the rider from their body.
This is not his first or most epic ride in the cold.
In July 2016, he rode 11,000km from Vilnius to Vladivostok in 12 days and in March 2017 he rode 785km across the ice of Lake Baikal, the deepest lake in the world, with our support, camping gear or a satphone.
What better way to see the scenic Adriatic country of Croatia but with a local couple who have more than 20 years of motorcycle experience!
Robert and Andrea Vrabec of Moto Tours Croatia have planned a 2400km ride through their home country which, as the map shows, is dominated by a rugged coastline, multitudes of islands and craggy mountain ranges.
Unforgettable Croatia
“The nature, the sea and the cities we will go through, with their history and culture, will make this trip unforgettable,” Robert says.
“Some parts of the routes we ride are truly spectacular and majestic“.
“The cities we will visit like Rovinj, Zadar, Dubrovnik count among the most beautiful tourist destinations, while islands like Cres, Mali Lošinj, Hvar will leave you breathless.”
They promise that their customers will truly “feel Croatia”.
Their tours range in price from €2990 for a rider and €2290 for a passenger for the eight-day Feel Croatia Small tour to €4290 and €2790 for the 14-day Croatian Island tour.
Price also depends on the type of motorcycle hired. Robert says they only use high-high-performance KTM and BMW motorcycles.
Tours run from May to October, but not the hottest months of July and August.
Riding passion
“It is difficult to explain even to ourselves, from where we draw such will and passion to go along the same road, same curve, to sit in that same coffee bar,” he says.
“There are no special words to describe it; just that sense of freedom, contact with nature; that smile on our faces when we meet those wonderful people who share the same and true passion for motorbikes, nature, travel, adventure.”
Robert and Andrea have worked in real estate, so they know the best places to stay and eat in no less than four-star comfort.
“After an exhausting ride, dinner will be served,” says Robert.
“For this we will also choose the places whose food and wine offer follows the customs of their geographic location.”
Moto Tours Croatia plan only small groups so they can devote their attention to each guest.
“Whenever we travel, we always find a new curve and pass the old ones with a smile,” Robert says.
“We plan our trips with a lot of attention to details and we also know that mileage is not the only purpose of travel. Therefore, the journeys we plan for you will always have additional content, depending on whether we are on the sea side where we will sail to a hidden cave, or we are on a hill where we will try zip-lining, or we will simply enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and watch the sunset.”
“These tours are ideal for romantics who love the sea, scenic coastal roads and impressive sunsets, as well as for gastronomes and fine wine devotees,” he says.
Moto Tours Croatia also organise tours through the mountains in neighbouring countries such as Slovenia, Italy and Austria. They can even arrange a unique, customised tour to your requirements.
Guided tours include:
Late-model BMW and KTM motorcycles with lockable hard luggage and tank bags plus a third party liability insurance and comprehensive vehicle insurance;
Experienced motorcycle guide;
Support van for luggage and 1 or 2 passengers;
All accommodation in mostly four-star hotels and apartments;
All buffet breakfasts;
All dinners, mostly in traditional local restaurants (except on rest days);
All ferry rides and tolls (according to tour program);
All fuel during the tour;
All entrance fees for national parks and museums (according to tour program);
Airport transfers on arrival day or one day before and on departure day;
All maps with marked routes for the region being toured;
Extensive tour booklet; and
GPS with all the routes uploaded.
Not included in the price: Airfares, dinners on rest days, most lunches, drinks, personal spending and tips.
The cafe had been ideal situated on the twisting hot mix just south of Kenilworth, but the property owner wouldn’t extend the lease.
So leasee and bike fan Peter Cusack moved to Carters Ridge, just off Skyring Rd.
His cafe sells great coffee, wholesome food, fruit and veg and has a stack of bike magazines for the patrons.
On the Mary Valley Country tourist map, it’s almost dead centre in the region, so it’s an even better spot to base yourself to explore.
And there’s plenty of great roads to ride, no matter whether you like fast, open bends, tight hairpins, hot mix, scenic back roads, formed gravel or Conondale National Park forestry trails. The area simply has everything to suit every rider’s taste and bike style.
Peter shoved the tourist map in front of me and began introducing me to roads I’d passed, but never ventured down.
On the Harley, they were a barrel of fun, challenging, bumpy, twisting and scenic.
Two great roads I’d never tried before are Moy Pocket Rd and Cooroy Belli Rd. I’ll certainly be back to do them again, although Peter warns that Moy Pocket Rd is busy with cement trucks on weekdays.
He recently did a big trip with his wife on their Triumph Tiger 1050 which suits 99% of the region’s roads.
Today, I’m on the Street Glide Special, which looks commanding and handles the winding roads surprisingly well, but would be a handful on the gravel.
Here is a list of some of the lesser-known, but superb tarmac roads in the region which the Harley handled well so they should suit just about any motorcycle: Moy Pocket Rd, Skyring Rd, Blad Knob Rd, Hovard Rd, Obi Obi Rd (up only, down section is still gravel), Reesville Rd, Postmans Track/Aherns Rd, Bellthorpe Range Rd, Eastern Mary River Rd and Lawnville Rd.
The wonders of the Granite Belt in southern Queensland attracted Gold Coast rider and MBW contributor Todd Parkes. He organised a two-day trip with the help of Monique Krause, marketing coordinator of Granite Belt Wine Country. Click here for the first part of his trip.
Day two of my new frontier exploration of the Granite Belt region led me to more wonders.
The Jamworks Gourmet Cafe and Larder was the place to go for breakfast where they make all their jams on site. One of the owners, Stef, was on duty and shared how they often get machinery clubs and car clubs among others journeying through or frequently meeting up there.
In fact as I enjoyed some apple juice and an omelette, the local classics group turned up for their monthly gathering. A smattering of classic vehicles surrounded the parking lot and the conversation rose enthusiastically within the cafe to fever pitch.
Wineries
You aren’t visiting Stanthorpe properly if you haven’t experienced several wineries across the area. In fact there are more than 45 different vineyards in the region and to explore all of them in one hit is an impossibility which is why many people just keep returning.
Jester Hill Wines was my mid-morning stop. Ann and Mick Bourke own and run Jester Hill Wines. They are keen motorcyclists and they visited the Granite Belt on a bike trip together nearly a decade ago. They visited Jester Hill Wines when under its previous owner and decided to buy it out of the blue!
They have a wine called “Two Fools” and they say they named it after themselves and their story of the bike trip that ended in buying a winery. I had a great chat with them both as well as a lovely coffee. Wine tasting is available and a must as well as taking away some produce with you. If only I could have fitted a case on the bike!
They do courier your purchases (like the other wineries do too) though and often they arrive home to your doorstep before you do.
Rock wonders
More spectacular scenery can be explored in the region including Girraween National Park with rock formations, caves and outcrops. On the way I saw a man-made pyramid in the Ballandean area on Jacobsen’s Rd. It is a stone pyramid, built from blocks of local granite, standing about 17.5m, 30m square at the base and containing 7500 tonnes of rock. It was built using an excavator and dump truck and it took eight months to complete.
Leaving Stanthorpe and heading south to the border I arrived at Wallangarra Railway Cafe in the old border station. In its prime, it received trains from NSW on their unique gauge and shifted the freight to waiting trains on Queensland’s different gauge railway line.
Wallangarra Train Station
That doesn’t occur anymore but if you are in the region at the right time, a steam train comes from Warwick monthly to this destination (the next is February 9, 2019), stops for lunch and heads home. There is a museum with well-laid-out models, displays and a theatre room. Kim and the other helpful staff are always warm and welcoming as they serve you snacks, meals and drinks while sharing the site’s history.
At the end of my two-day ride through the Granite Belt, I resolved to return with my clan to explore the law dog training shows, see some glass blowing, visit the saddlery, taste some cheeses and see more of the region’s natural beauty.
I headed south to Tenterfield and then east through the ranges to Casino, Lismore, Bangalow and home to the Gold Coast. For more scenic non-motorway oriented riding you can ride through Kyogle, Nimbin and Murwillumbah. However you manage that trip, the roads are delightful.
Top 10 reasons to ride the Granite Belt:
The roads to get there are great.
The wines taste completely different to coastal areas or lower valley regions.
The farm industry (apples, strawberries, grapes, etc) offers tasting, picking and tours as well as products such as juices, jams, snacks, etc
The craft industry includes glass blowing, chocolate making, cheese making, beer brewing, fish hatcheries, leather goods and more.
Natural sites to delight geology buffs include Girraween National Park, Donnelly’s Castle, many random sites with interesting granite formations and Mt Marlay Lookout.
Local hospitality is friendly and inviting and the businesses seem to work together for the good of the region not in competition for tourist dollars.
Cafes, restaurants and accommodation all offer unique experiences.
Many think of it as a winter destination, the chance to maybe see snow in Qld and feel the warm fireplaces and drink hot chocolate at night, but in summer you can explore the roads without the heat and humidity of the coast.
Unique experiences include the Law Dog Training school to see how dogs used in all branches of security work are trained; the Granite Belt Maze and Mini Golf, Christmas Tree Farm, Wine and Hospitality College.
History buffs will enjoy the various museums, military memorials and the historic villages named after French and Belgium World War I Battles.
The Granite Belt in southern Queensland tempts Gold Coast rider and MBW contributor Todd Parkes who organised a two-day trip with the help of Monique Krause, marketing coordinator of Granite Belt Wine Country. Click here for the second part of his trip.
The region is two hours west of the Gold Coast and up until now I only knew it as that cold place where it snows in Queensland in winter.
Stanthorpe is at the heart of the region and when I was told it was one of the cooler areas in South East Queensland over the summer, I was hooked as riding in summer can be taxing. I was especially hooked when I remembered the curvaceous ride up through Killarney and the sumptuous twists of the Tenterfield range that enable me to get there and return.
Granite foundation
The Granite Belt region is aptly named sitting on a ribbon of granite rock that is naturally displayed in all sorts of interesting shapes. Budding geologists will have a ball.
The land is utilised for many industries including wine and grape vineyards, apple farms, strawberry farms, fish hatcheries and cheese factories to name several.
To get to the Granite Belt region from Brisbane or the Gold Coast, there are several options: the Warrego Highway to Toowoomba then out through Warwick and south bound. There is also the Cunningham’s Gap option which is a stunning and curvy ride to Warwick. I came up through Boonah, Carney’s Creek and Killarney. If you are coming from the Northern Rivers region, up through Casino then the Tenterfield range is the way to go.
For me the ride up through Killarney is stunning, encompassing narrow, winding roads through canopied rain forest regions, then bursting out into ribbons of asphalt along the ridge of the main range area. I wanted to turn around, descend and do it again as it’s a favourite of mine.
Along the way, a picnic at Carney’s Creek near the rock formations is a great idea; followed by a stop at Carr’s Lookout to see if you can spot the plane wreckage from the 1900s that is still in the foliage across from the lookout.
If you love the bushland, Queen Mary Falls and Brown Falls waterfalls awaits. Several cafes along the ridge also await to tantalise your tastebuds.
From Killarney you can pursue the highway south or, as I did, take Old Stanthorpe Road. If your bike is a tarmac queen, avoid it, as it has about 10km of unsealed, corrugated roads. Eventually you will appear at the northern end of Stanthorpe near Applethorpe.
Apple Farm
My first arranged stop was Sutton’s Apple Farm. Ros and David own the farm and they make juices, pies, ciders as well as obviously producing apples for the industry. Being a teacher by trade, Ros is always keen to host school visits of all ages and even has schools visiting from the Gold Coast.
I had heard great things about their apple pie so had to try it. It is completely handmade with onsite ingredients and served with special flavoured ice-cream and apple syrup dribbled over the cream. It did not disappoint.
My gran used to make her apple pies by hand so this was a great throwback. In fact this apple pie has such a great reputation that when one customer Googled where to find the best apple pie, Sutton’s came up, he jumped in his helicopter on the coast and flew up requesting landing clearance on the farm while in transit. He has since popped in again numerous times.
Off-track
From there I went via Thullimbah, an old local rail station, to Donnelly’s Castle, one of Captain Thunderbolt’s hideouts. It has all sorts of outcrops, formations and even some cave-like nooks. I approached from the wrong direction and turned into the state forest nearby which also had amazing formations. The tracks are well-beaten, but may be tough for some road bikes. Donnelly’s Castle road is also unsealed but not too difficult.
The region is also known for its strawberries and Ashbern’s Strawberry Farm was next on my bucket list for the weekend. Picking fresh strawberries is a highlight as well as experiencing food and drinks with the strawberries as the main ingredient.
There is so much to do in this region you will have to stay a night or several. My accommodation was arranged at Ridgemill Estate which has eight modern and inviting cabins on site near the vineyard. It has its own cellar room, manufacturing facility and taste-testing sessions.
They make some beautiful wines, some of which have won prestigious awards. The location is a stunner and to sit on the deck looking out on the vineyard hearing the sounds of nature is so relaxing. You can eat out under the stars or around the nearby rocks area.
Sunset vista
If you love sunsets, Mt Marlay lookout is a top spot with a viewing platform, walking trails, rocky outcrops and mountain biking trails. There are many restaurants in or near town to suit any taste or you can cook a barbecue at Ridgemill. Don’t forget to enjoy the chockies and a glass or two under the vista of the many beautiful stars.
Owner Enrico Grassi says he has prepared the 2019 riding season “with more determination and passion”.
Having a local guide like this Roman rider is a distinct advantage as he knows and rides all the roads, and he has a great knowledge of local history, foods and the best wines to have with dinner.
Enrico, Mrs MBW and me at the Pantheon in Roma
His tours range from 8-12 riding days visiting scenic destinations such as the Amalfi Coast, Italian Alps, Dolomites, Tuscany, Chianti, Sardinia, Corsica, or even watching the MotoGP races at Mugello and Misano circuits.
All include twisting country roads, historical destinations, spectacular views of the mountains and the Mediterranean with four-star hospitality.
“After the sun has set, there’s plenty of opportunities to experience the culture, the food and wine, the night-life and the passion of this amazing country,” Enrico says.
Hear The Road Motorcycle Tours Italy provides motorcycle rental, accommodation with “a local flavour”, luggage transportation and transfer from and to the airport.
There are so many great reasons to consider taking a trip through Canada. There is the wilderness, mountains, oceans, and of course, the people you’ll meet along the way. Canada is a very interesting country to travel through, however there are a few things you need to consider before jumping on your motorcycle and taking off.
In this guide, we will cover a few things you need to keep in mind to make the most of your adventure. Everyone’s experience is unique but there are 3 important factors to take into consideration before setting off on your journey.
1 Familiarize Yourself With The Route
You have already probably researched a lot about the places you’ll be visiting when touring Canada, however, you also need to find the best routes to get around. We highly suggest getting in touch with any of your friends who are familiar with the best roads to take. Perhaps one of your motorist friends have done the trip before – let them lead the way!
Knowing the road you’re riding on is essential to getting to the place you’re visiting. You can also ask around to see where the major stops on the route are and if there are any abandoned patches on the way that you need to be well equipped for (or avoid completely).
2 Pack Accordingly
Packing is one of the parts (especially if it’s your first tour) that can be difficult. Knowing what you need depends on a few factors like if you’re riding solo or going with other people. Regardless, you only want to pack all essentials. Unlike cars, you have very limited boot space on your bike.
We previously talked about knowing the roads you’ll be driving through. Many times, it’s best not to pack too much at the beginning and stocking up on water or other items as you go on. Packing on disposable items will help you travel lighter.
Here are some must haves that you need with you:
A limited number of clothes (carry enough innerwear for hygiene purposes)
No more than 2 pairs of shoes
Basic toiletries
Motorcycle toolkit in case it breaks, and you become stranded
Power bank to have your phone always charged
First-aid kit and any medication you take
3 Housing
Where do you plan on spending the night when it’s time to rest? You have the option of camping out in a lot of areas in Canada. There is also the option to stay in a cozy B&B – you can usually find amazing deals searching these options.
Another great option is staying with friends or even people you meet on the road – you’ll be surprised how friendly and inviting Canadians can be.
Other Options
If you plan on experiencing Canada in a vehicle, plan for small accidents including a broken windshield or side window. This is common among road trips because the longer you drive your car, the more likely it is to get hit by tiny rock chips that can cause damage to the glass. This can be very frustrating especially because something so small can become very expensive when left untreated.
An Auto Glass Shop in North York Canada is useful to have on hand in case you need a certified technician to smooth out the surface and repair any cracks before they turn into a bigger problem. Many companies like the one we linked will come to you if you’re too busy to visit an auto glass shop in North York. It doesn’t matter if your home, at work, or somewhere else in North York.
This is all important to keep in mind, especially if you’re traveling solo since it may be hard to find someone on the road to help you out. It’s always better to be knowledgeable about what you need. Best of luck on your journey and happy traveling!
Indian-based motorcycle tour company Legendary Moto Rides is offering Motorbike Writer readers a 10% discount on their three 2019 Himalayan tours riding the highest motorable roads in the world.
To score the discount, just type in the code “MBW10%” when making a booking. Riders can save from about $A330 to $A450 with the 10% discount.
Prices before the discount are $US3300 for a rider, $US5800 for rider and pillion and $US2700 for a car passenger.
If you want some privacy, add $US395 to the prices for all tours for a single room.
Costs include just about everything except your flights and even include a farewell dinner with “unlimited beer”. Now that’s value, especially the way some of us Aussies drink!
Altitude sickness
All tours include riding the Khardung La Pass which is the highest civilian motorable road in the world at 5606m above sea level.
I’ve ridden to the top of Pikes Peak in Colorado at 4302m and felt like I had a slight hangover and feet of lead.
An extra 1.3km straight up should really be a challenge.
Legendary Moto Rides spokesman Bharat assures me that riders will have time to acclimatise.
“In Trans Himalayan we start from Manali (altitude 3979m) and slowly slowly we go on high altitude so we get habitual with altitude and do not face any altitude sickness,” he says.
“Other High Himalayan Heights Motorcycle Tour we need one day complete to get acclimatised or maybe two days.”
Apart from literally taking your breath away, riders will see ancient monasteries, deserts, snow, waterfalls and colourful local villages.
Along the way they will stay in hotels or “glamping” tents.
Glamping
Legendary Motor Rides tours include accommodation, most meals, all ground transfers from arrival to departure, motorcycle hire, fuel, English-speaking road captain and staff, first-aid medical kit, refreshments during rides, luggage support vehicle, plus all fees, taxes and permits.
Exclusions:International flights, domestic flights to and from Leh if relevant ($US250 extra), lunch, personal medical insurance (compulsory), bike damage, extra drinks, visa fees and items of personal nature such as tips, laundry and alcohol.
The Adventurists must be the first motorcycle touring company to offer tours on monkey bikes and now add tours of Romania riding one of the most famous roads in the world.
Two years ago they launched the Monkey Run in the Sahara, crossing the Atlas Mountains to the Moroccan coast on 50cc Monkey Bikes and followed up with the Monkey Run Peru.
Now they will tackle Romania’s famous Transfăgărășan Highway.
Top Gear host Jeremy Clarkson called it “the best road in the world”.
We don’t often agree with the bike-hating TV presenter, but we have to agree on his verdict of this challenging piece of heaven.
Cost and charity
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The Adventurists will operate two Romanian Monkey Runs in 2019 at the end of June and in mid-September, costing £1295 (about $A2320, $US1665).
As per all their adventures, The Adventurists ask participants to all raise £1000 in charity donations.
Half goes to their charity partner Cool Earth and the other half goes to which ever charity is chosen by the participant. Since they started, they have raised £7.5million for charity.
Secret location
Apart from riding monkey bikes, the tour will be unique because there is no defined route, says MD Daniel Reeds.
It starts in Sighetu Marmatiei, close to the border with Ukraine, before travelling a few hundred kilometres to a secret location.
The route in between is not set, but Daniel urges riders to include the paved Transfăgărășan Highway across the Carpathian Mountains. The road was built in the early 1970s as a strategic military route and goes into Transylvania were riders can visit Dracula’s Castle.
Transfăgărășan Highway
“Beyond that we encourage riders to look at their maps as little as possible,” Daniel says.
“The idea of the Monkey Runs is to give people a true adventure that allows them to get under the skin of the country they’re in in a way that a normal holiday wouldn’t.
“There’s no set route, no backup and no support. That’s the whole point. You could just rock up, enjoy the launch party, team up with another rider and ride in tandem the length of the country to the finish line and you’d have an amazing time.”
Monkey Bikes
This aim for adventure is why The Adventurists chose Honda Monkey Bikes, rather than more comfortable or powerful rides.
“Monkey Bikes are a whole lot of fun and it’s hard to take a serious fall,” Daniel says.
“Because they’re low to the ground they also feel much faster than they are, but in reality they’re slow enough for you to truly appreciate the landscape you’re travelling through.
“They’re perfect for this trip and they’re bound to break down at some point, which means you’ll be forced to engage with the locals and find out what the country and culture are all about.”
In 2015, they produced a video featuring multi-Australian Superbike Champion Malcolm Campbell and interstate motorcycle club member Lester Knowlesridging around te state and poi ting out te features and the dangers.
This year the video has been updated.
It is now joined by the Charley Boorman video and another video about riding the West Coast with local rider and Regional Chief with the Tasmanian Fire Service, Jeff Harper, on his Victory Cross Roads Cruiser.
RSAC provides all riders with information and videos when they board the Spirit of Tasmania. They also produce billboards and posters displayed along popular Tassie riding routes.
You can get more travel information on their Touring Motorcyclists web page.
Charley rates Tassie
Charley leads a Tassie tour
In his video, Charley rates Tasmania highly for riding. He says it has a “huge heritage of riding motorcycles”, “the roads are beautiful, the landscape incredible and the tarmac is just wonderful”.
“There are not many straight bits,” he says.
Charley provides some safety riding and gear tips remarking that it is important to feel comfortable.
He also talks about his tours in Australia which take in Tasmania, as well as his African tours and he praises his ride, a Triumph Tiger 1200.
Although gaining notoriety riding a German BMW around the world with actor friend Ewan McGregor, Boorman has been an ambassador for the British brand for several years now.
In it, he answers many of the questions posted by our readers, including his next trip wth Star Wars star Ewan McGregor, his regrets, riding tips and more.
