Harriman State Park’s Seven Lakes Drive connects a series of scenic lakes and reservoirs. (Photos by the author)
Three things that make a perfect ride for me are rural roads, scenic diversity, and a relaxing pace to savor the passing landscape, especially during the off-season or midweek when crowds are minimal. If you enjoy cruising around sparkling lakes, taking in scenic overlooks, visiting picturesque villages, and riding along forest-lined roads, then New York’s Hudson River Valley is for you.
This ride took place in the fall. From my home in New Jersey, I cruised to the New York state line and rolled into Harriman State Park on Seven Lakes Drive. This 47,527-acre park has 31 lakes and reservoirs, a campground, 200 miles of hiking trails, and serpentine scenic roads to explore. It’s also home to bears, blue herons, coyotes, and plenty of deer.
It was a warm, sunny day, and I enjoyed a relaxed ride on Seven Lakes Drive. After stopping at the Lake Sebago boat launch area to stretch my legs and take in the view, I headed to the road that hugs the shoreline of Lake Tiorati. If you are a fan of the HBO series The Sopranos, the famous “Pine Barrens” episode was filmed here, not in New Jersey.
Bear Mountain Bridge crosses the Hudson River between Fort Clinton and Anthony’s Nose.
From Lake Tiorati, I cruised to Perkins Memorial Drive, which snakes its way to the summit of Bear Mountain, where a 60-foot observation tower offers a 360-degree view of the Hudson Highlands. On a clear day, you can see Manhattan’s skyscrapers in the distance. Looking east, the Bear Mountain Bridge spans the mighty Hudson River, which begins as a stream flowing from Lake Tear of the Clouds high in the Adirondack Mountains and ends its 315-mile journey at New York Harbor.
The 5,205-acre Bear Mountain State Park is located on the west bank of the Hudson River and has hiking trails, a zoo, a swimming pool, an ice-skating rink, and a vintage merry-go-round. The rustic Bear Mountain Inn has a stone-and-log facade and is worth a look-see.
The lower Hudson River Valley is dotted with lakes and reservoirs, and some of the best riding in the area is on roads that trace their shores.
Riding across the two-lane Bear Mountain Bridge, which is suspended by cables 155 feet above the river, quickened my pulse. There are great views from the bridge, but I did not relax until my tires gripped solid ground on the other side.
When it opened in 1915, the Bear Mountain Inn was described as one of the “finest examples of rustic Adirondack architecture in America.”
I continued riding north on State Route 9D, a two-lane road that travels through woodlands and alongside mountains as it parallels the Hudson River. Soon I rode through Cold Spring, a historic town with many 19th-century buildings. Its antique and vintage-clothing stores, galleries, restaurants, and a beautiful river-front park make for an enjoyable walkabout. You can even rent kayaks and paddle in the Hudson.
Across the river is the United States Military Academy West Point. Some of its cadets achieved fame and glory, including Custer, MacArthur, Eisenhower, and Patton, to name just a few. North of West Point, Storm King Mountain rises like a giant monolith.
Incorporated in 1846, the village of Cold Spring retains its 19th-century charm.
From Cold Spring, I rolled east on State Route 301. With the fall air caressing my face, I enjoyed weaving through the forests and lakes of the 14,086-acre Fahnestock State Park. A little beyond the park is the impressive and colorful Chuang Yen Buddhist Monastery.
The Chuang Yen Monastery houses the largest indoor statue of a Buddha in the Western Hemisphere.
Continuing east, I connected with Farmers Mills Road, a rural, twisty road that leads to State Route 52. I turned south and rode through Carmel, where I reconnected with SR-301, which curves along the shoreline of the 1,061-acre West Branch Reservoir. Crossing the reservoir on a two-lane road lined with stone walls makes for one cool ride.
I followed the same basic route home, which gave me a different perspective in the opposite direction. At the Lake Tioroti ranger station in Harriman State Park, I turned onto Arden Valley Road, another serpentine scenic road that took me to State Route 17 and on to New Jersey.
A stone-walled causeway crosses the West Branch Reservoir west of Carmel.
As I blasted south along the empty scenic highway, I let the beauty of this ride sink into my bones, which brought a smile to my face. As my friend Tom Franco often says about riding, “It’s all good.” I could not agree more.
Kenneth W. Dahse is a writer and photographer from northern New Jersey and a regular contributor to Rider. Ken has been riding since he was a teenager, and his favorite rides are relaxed multiday excursions.
The Pacific Coast Highway is an iconic scenic road along the California, Oregon, and Washington coasts. (Photo by Kevin Wing)
The December 2024 issue of Rider celebrated the magazine’s 50th anniversary. Over the past half century, we have published thousands of travels stories, favorite rides, tour tests, and features highlighting must-ride roads throughout the U.S. and on every continent except Antarctica. As part of the special anniversary issue, we selected 50 of the best motorcycle roads in America.
Out of 3.9 million miles of roads in this country, these are just a drop in the bucket, covering a mere 13,467 miles. There are thousands more great roads out there, so get going!
(The road are listed more or less alphabetically by state rather than in rank order.)
1. Dalton Highway (Alaska / 414 miles)
1. Dalton Highway (Alaska / 414 miles)
Paralleling the Trans‑Alaska Pipeline, this gravel supply road that goes from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay is a bucket‑list adventure route that crosses the Arctic Circle and the Continental Divide. (Photo by Jeff Davison)
This route in the Ozark Mountains, which starts and ends in Jasper, Arkansas, and includes AR 7, AR 43, and AR 74, has hundreds of tight curves and crosses the Buffalo National River twice. (Photo by Bill Stermer)
The Ozarks offer a smorgasbord of roads that wind through dense hardwood forests, over scenic ridges, and along burbling rivers. This stretch of AR 23 is one of the region’s best. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
4. Talimena National Scenic Byway (Arkansas, Oklahoma / 54 miles)
4. Talimena National Scenic Byway (Arkansas, Oklahoma / 54 miles)
This winding road from Mena, Arkansas, (AR 88) to Talihina, Oklahoma, (OK 1) runs along the ridges of Rich Mountain and Winding Stair Mountain in Ouachita National Forest. (Photo by David Bell)
U.S. 191 in eastern Arizona, which follows a trail used in 1540 by Spanish explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, includes an open‑pit copper mine, high‑alpine meadows and ridges, and hundreds of curves. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
From the Colorado Plateau to the red rocks of Sedona, through the historic towns of Jerome and Prescott, and across valleys and over mountains, these sibling state routes offer a greatest‑hits tour of central Arizona. (Photo by Kevin Wing)
Rides up and down CA 1 have been a regular part of Rider’s history since our first issue. This legendary road follows California’s rugged coastline and offers world‑class scenery and epic riding. (Photo by Kevin Wing)
From U.S. 101 near Fortuna, riding east on this stretch of CA 36 passes through Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park before turning into a fantastic roller coaster that seems like it will never end. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
Paralleling U.S. 101, this meandering route (CA 254) passes through groves of old‑growth coast redwoods that tower hundreds of feet above the road and follows the wild and scenic Eel River. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
Mile for mile, this section of U.S. 550 between Ouray and Silverton, Colorado, is one of the most scenic anywhere. It passes through the rugged San Juan Mountains and summits several high passes. (Photo by Sara Liberte)
11. Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway (Colorado / 28 miles)
11. Mount Blue Sky Scenic Byway (Colorado / 28 miles)
Gaining more than 7,000 feet in 28 miles and achieving a final elevation of 14,130 feet, this is the highest paved road in North America, edging out Pikes Peak Highway by 15 feet. (Photo by Dan Schrock)
This north Georgia loop connects GA 60, GA 180, and U.S. 129 and circumnavigates Blood Mountain. A highlight is the Two Wheels of Suches motorcycle resort. (Photo by Phil Buonpastore)
Idaho is full of scenic byways. This one follows the Salmon River through the Sawtooth Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide at 7,014‑foot Lost Trail Pass. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)
14. Route 66 (Illinois, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California / 2,448 miles)
14. Route 66 (Illinois, Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California / 2,448 miles)
Dubbed the “Mother Road” by John Steinbeck in The Grapes of Wrath, U.S. Route 66 was once the shortest, fastest, and most scenic route from Chicago to Los Angeles. (Photo by Mark Tuttle)
This coal country loop follows Daniel Boone’s Wilderness Road, summits 4,145‑foot Black Mountain, and includes U.S. 421, made famous by the 1958 Robert Mitchum movie Thunder Road. (Photo by Lance Oliver)
16. Red River Gorge Scenic Byway (Kentucky / 46 miles)
16. Red River Gorge Scenic Byway (Kentucky / 46 miles)
Following the wild and scenic Red River, this byway passes through a National Geologic Area that features stone arches, caves, cliffs, ravines, waterfalls, and the Nada Tunnel. (Photo via Adobe Stock/erhlif)
This scenic road around Acadia National Park on Maine’s Mount Desert Island features woodlands, rocky beaches, and glacier‑scoured granite peaks such as Cadillac Mountain. (Photo by Scott A. Williams)
18. Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway (Maine / 52 miles)
18. Rangeley Lakes National Scenic Byway (Maine / 52 miles)
Considered one of the most scenic routes in New England, this byway in the Appalachian Mountains of western Maine winds through woodlands and around lakes and ponds. (Photo by Alan Paulsen)
This byway follows the Keweenaw Peninsula, which extends like a dorsal fin from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula into Lake Superior. Near Copper Harbor, Brockway Mountain Drive provides sweeping views. (Photo by Chuck Cochran)
20. Tunnel of Trees Scenic Heritage Route (Michigan / 20 miles)
20. Tunnel of Trees Scenic Heritage Route (Michigan / 20 miles)
This section of M‑119, which runs along the edge of Lake Michigan between Harbor Springs and Cross Village, is a narrow, curvy path through a tunnel of foliage. (Photo by Jamie Elvidge)
21. Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway (Minnesota / 88 miles)
21. Historic Bluff Country Scenic Byway (Minnesota / 88 miles)
This scenic byway (MN 16) in southern Minnesota begins at the Mississippi River and continues west through the Root River Valley, curving through rolling hills, dolomite bluffs, and historic towns. (Photo by Chuck Cochran)
22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles)
22. Great River Road National Scenic Byway (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana / 2,069 miles)
This legendary road touches 10 states as it follows the mighty Mississippi River from its headwaters in Minnesota to its sprawling delta in Louisiana. (Photo via Adobe Stock/Ferrer Photography)
This national parkway from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Tennessee, follows the “Old Natchez Trace” used by Native Americans, European settlers, traders, and soldiers. (Photo by Tim Kessel)
Traversing Glacier National Park, this road cuts through the rugged Rocky Mountains and crosses the Continental Divide at 6,646‑foot Logan Pass. (Photo by Sherry Jones)
25. North Carolina Route 28 (North Carolina / 81 miles)
25. North Carolina Route 28 (North Carolina / 81 miles)
Starting at Deals Gap and ending at the Georgia state line, this wonderfully curvy road is known as Moonshiner 28 and includes part of the Mountain Waters Scenic Byway. (Photo by Trevor Denis)
26. Blue Ridge Parkway (North Carolina, Virginia / 469 miles)
26. Blue Ridge Parkway (North Carolina, Virginia / 469 miles)
This national parkway through the Appalachian highlands is the quintessential scenic ride and is known for its perfectly shaped curves, well‑maintained pavement, and countless scenic overlooks. (Photo by Steven Goode)
NH 112 is a spectacular road that twists its way through New Hampshire’s White Mountains. In the fall, it’s one of New England’s best leaf‑peeper routes. (Photo by Dan Bisbee)
28. Mount Washington Auto Road (New Hampshire / 8 miles)
28. Mount Washington Auto Road (New Hampshire / 8 miles)
This short toll road to the top of 6,288‑foot Mount Washington is often fraught with bad weather. A recorded wind speed of 231 mph on the summit was a world record until 1996. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)
29. Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway (New Mexico / 84 miles)
29. Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway (New Mexico / 84 miles)
Circling 13,167‑foot Wheeler Peak, this scenic loop includes valleys, mesas, mountains, national forests, and some of New Mexico’s most culturally rich towns and villages. (Photo by Tim DeGiusti)
30. Great Continental Divide Route (New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana / 2,767 miles)
30. Great Continental Divide Route (New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana / 2,767 miles)
This mostly off‑road route crosses five states on its way from the U.S.-Mexico border to Banff, Canada. It’s a serious undertaking by any measure. (Photo by Don Mills)
Dubbed “The Loneliest Road in America” by Life magazine, the Nevada portion of the transcontinental Lincoln Highway traverses basin‑and‑range topography and follows the Pony Express route. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
32. Upper Delaware Scenic Byway (New York / 70 miles)
32. Upper Delaware Scenic Byway (New York / 70 miles)
This section of NY 97 hugs the eastern shore of the Delaware River and passes through protected park land. A highlight is the winding Hawk’s Nest portion carved into the cliffside. (Photo by Kevin Wing)
OH 555 often ranks high on lists of great motorcycle roads, and the 21 miles between Chesterhill and Ringgold are particularly fun and challenging. Part of Ohio’s Windy 9, it’s in a target‑rich environment. (Photo by Ken Frick)
Starting at the Columbia River, this route winds around its namesake peak, an 11,249‑foot active volcano, and goes through gorges, rainforests, and pastoral valleys. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
35. West Cascades Scenic Byway (Oregon / 220 miles)
35. West Cascades Scenic Byway (Oregon / 220 miles)
Following the contours of the Cascades range, this route treats riders to old‑growth forests, snowcapped volcanic peaks, and the wild and scenic Clackamas River. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
U.S. 6 across northern Pennsylvania, known locally as PA Route 6, takes riders through lush forests and charming small towns. Highlights include the PA Wilds region, the Kinzua Sky Walk, and the Susquehanna River. (Photo by Kenneth W. Dahse)
This stretch of U.S. 16A, which connects Custer State Park with Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills of South Dakota, includes 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, and three wooden “pigtail” bridges. (Photo by Kevin Wing)
38. Tail of the Dragon (Tennessee, North Carolina / 11 miles)
38. Tail of the Dragon (Tennessee, North Carolina / 11 miles)
This (in)famous section of U.S. 129, which borders Great Smoky Mountains National Park, claims 318 curves in just 11 miles. It’s a wild ride, but its popularity results in weekend crowds. (Photo by Ken Frick)
39. Cherohala Skyway (Tennessee, North Carolina / 43 miles)
39. Cherohala Skyway (Tennessee, North Carolina / 43 miles)
Completed in 1996 at a cost of $100M, this road through the Cherokee and Nantahala national forests (hence the name) has perfectly radiused corners, smooth pavement, and stunning views. (Photo via Adobe Stock/Mark Nortona)
Farm to Market 170 from Lajitas to Presidio is a scenic roller coaster along the Rio Grande, which serves as the U.S.-Mexico border and the southern boundary of Big Bend Ranch State Park. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
Connecting Ranch Roads 335, 336, and 337 is a scenic, sometimes challenging ride through Texas Hill Country. Popular with bikers, the route includes several motorcycle‑friendly bars and shops. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
UT 12, aka A Journey Through Time Scenic Byway, connects state parks, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks, Grand Staircase‑Escalante National Monument, and Dixie National Forest. (Photo by Greg Drevenstedt)
This national parkway, which begins near the northern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, runs along mountain ridges for the entire length of Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park. (Photo by Scott A. Williams)
VA 16 from Marion to Tazewell runs north‑south over three mountains that give the road a rolling humpbacked character, and its 32 miles have more than 400 curves. (Photo courtesy Back of the Dragon)
Stretching from Massachusetts to the Canadian border, VT 100 parallels the Green Mountains and passes through woodlands, pristine farmland, and charming villages. (Photo by Dan Bisbee)
46. North Cascades Scenic Highway (Washington / 140 miles)
46. North Cascades Scenic Highway (Washington / 140 miles)
Part of the larger Cascades Loop, WA 20 includes old‑growth forests, cascading waterfalls, alpine lakes, glaciers, and rugged mountain scenery. (Photo by Clement Salvadori)
47. Door County Coastal Byway (Wisconsin / 66 miles)
47. Door County Coastal Byway (Wisconsin / 66 miles)
This scenic loop on the Door Peninsula includes views of Lake Michigan, Green Bay, the Niagara Escarpment bluffs, and quaint shore‑side towns and villages. (Photo by Barry Mellen)
48. Coal Heritage Trail (West Virginia / 97 miles)
48. Coal Heritage Trail (West Virginia / 97 miles)
This National Scenic Byway through West Virginia’s coal country includes twisty roads up and over ridges, easy valley riding, small towns, and the New River Gorge Bridge. (Photo by Steve Shaluta)
49. U.S. Route 33 in West Virginia (West Virginia / 248 miles)
49. U.S. Route 33 in West Virginia (West Virginia / 248 miles)
One of the highest‑rated motorcycle roads in the Mountain State, U.S. 33 passes through George Washington and Monongahela national forests and the Shenandoah Valley. (Photo by Nathan Cuvelier)
U.S. 212 between Red Lodge, Montana, and Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming summits 10,947‑foot Bearfoot Pass. Journalist Charles Kuralt called it the most scenic highway in America. (Photo by James Petersen)
The snaking Hawk’s Nest section of New York Route 97 clings to rocky cliffs hundreds of feet above the Delaware River. It was a highlight of this New York and Pennsylvania motorcycle ride.
The Upper Delaware River Watershed encompasses thousands of square miles in New York and Pennsylvania, with hundreds of miles of serpentine roads rolling through forests, farmland, small towns, and historic sites. It makes for a superb ride, so I fired up my Kawasaki Vulcan and hit the road to explore it.
From West Milford, New Jersey, I rolled north on smooth East Shore Road through state forest land and then along the sparkling shoreline of Greenwood Lake. With the morning sun twinkling through the trees and the cool, fresh air energizing me, I rode through the Black Dirt Region of southern Orange County, New York, a beautiful area of farmland renowned for its rich, black soil.
Cruising through Port Jervis, I wound through the Hawk’s Nest section of State Route 97, which is designated as the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway for 70 miles. This sinuous roadway is cut into the mountainside, offering excellent views of the Delaware River far below.
Leaving the river behind near Pond Eddy, I climbed deeper into the watershed. I’m not religious in the traditional sense, but I love viewing unique churches. Two impressive ones grace the treelined State Route 41: Saints Peter and Paul Ukrainian Orthodox Church with its white facade and metal domes and the rustic log St. Volodymyr Ukrainian Catholic Church.
Saints Peter and Paul Ukrainian Orthodox Church in Glen Spey, New York, stands as a citadel of hope.
From Glen Spey, I weaved through the wooded route to Eldred, where I blasted up scenic State Route 55 to Lake Superior State Park, a good place for a relaxing swim or walkabout. From there, I made a pilgrimage to Bethel, site of the famous 1969 Woodstock music festival where 400,000 people gathered for three days of peace and music.
No longer the rural field of Max Yasgur’s farm, it is now part of the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. This concert venue’s museum honors the 1969 festival, and the original concert field has been preserved. A monument near the stage site memorializes the groups who performed there.
From Bethel, I blasted northwest on country backroads to the impressive Stone Arch Bridge Historical Park and then onto Roscoe for lunch at the Roscoe Diner. Next, I crossed the Beaverkill River, a tributary of the Delaware River. Both the Beaverkill and the Downsville covered bridges are off State Route 206, and riding a motorcycle through these wooden structures is a joy not to be missed.
The Stone Arch Bridge, built in 1880, adorns its namesake park in Kenoza Lake, New York. It is as famous for its beautiful architecture as it is for a murder committed on the bridge in 1892.
Downsville is also home to the 15-mile-long, 5,700-acre Pepacton Reservoir on the East Branch of the Delaware River. State Route 30’s twisties follow the reservoir’s shoreline and then the snaking river. With my Vulcan purring and the afternoon sun reflecting off the water, I cruised SR-30 to State Route 17. In Hancock, I dropped my kickstand at the tidy Hancock House Hotel, which has a pub and a restaurant on-site, making it an ideal overnight stop for riders.
The next day, I fired up my Vulcan and savored the crisp air and deep blue sky as I rumbled over the river into Pennsylvania. State Routes 191, 247, and 370 roll through farmland and forest. On SR-370, I spotted a bear crossing the road – not an unusual occurrence in rural Pennsylvania.
This rural Pennsylvania road passes through the green pastures of a family farm.
Riding south on State Route 296 to Waymart is one of my favorite roads: smooth with a mix of farmland and forest on both sides. At Waymart, I crossed over U.S. Route 6 – known locally as PA Route 6 – which spans the northern part of the state and offers hundreds of miles of excellent riding opportunities.
At Hawley, I picked up a winding section of PA Route 6 and then followed State Route 590 to Lackawaxen, where SR-590 begins to parallel the Lackawaxen River, another tributary of the Delaware. It was a beautiful day, and I stopped to watch some kayakers on the river.
The author’s bike soaks up some rays as he explores a farm stand on Pennsylvania Route 296 near Waymart.
Crossing the Lackawaxen River, I stopped to rest at the Delaware Aqueduct, known as the Roebling Bridge, which was built in the mid-1800s and is the oldest existing wire suspension bridge in the U.S. Crossing the river here allows you to continue north or south on the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway.
New York and Pennsylvania Motorcycle Ride Resources
The parking lot of the Bellvale Farms Creamery in Warwick, New York, provides scenic views of the surrounding valleys. The Appalachian Trail crosses State Route 17A nearby, so this is a popular stop for hikers hungry for ice cream.
A good ride doesn’t have to be a long one. With only $10’s worth of gas, I set out to see how much fun I could have cruising around close to home on a New Jersey and New York motorcycle ride, and I was not disappointed.
It was a beautiful spring day with low humidity and temperatures in the 70s. I went out to the garage to warm up my 1990 BMW K 75, a bike known as the “Flying Brick.” Adding a little throttle as it idled, the BMW sang its familiar run run run run. I’ve owned it for 32 years, and with 28,000 miles on the clock, it’s barely broken in.
With its 750cc inline-Triple, waterproof saddlebags, and a cafe windscreen, some motorcycle reviews called the K 75 the perfect bike. It can take you around the corner for a quart of milk or around the world. I gassed her up, getting only a couple gallons for my $10. The gas station attendant admired the BMW’s silver paint and blue pinstripes and asked if it was new. I told him it was almost twice as old as he was.
The days of the 1,000-mile weekend trip are over for me. Most of my motorcycle jaunts these days, whether alone or with friends, are designed around breakfast, lunch, and a late afternoon snack.
The Village Buzz Cafe in Greenwood Lake is one of my go-to spots for breakfast or lunch. If you drop in, tell Katie I sent you!
From my home in Ramsey, New Jersey, it was a quick ride north on State Route 17 to Auntie El’s Farm Market in Sloatsburg, New York. At one time just a small shack with plants in summer and Christmas trees in winter, it’s now half a block long and sells plants, garden art, and fresh fruit and vegetables. But for me, it’s all about Auntie El’s bakery, which serves up freshly baked pastries, pies, and cookies. I enjoyed a warm apple turnover with coffee.
Next, I veered west on Sterling Mine Road, curved my way back into New Jersey, and rode past Ringwood Manor, a 724-acre park with rolling hills and a babbling brook. A slow ride through the park is usually a nice diversion, but on this trip I kept going and turned onto Margaret King Avenue. A few miles later, I turned west onto Greenwood Lake Turnpike and crossed over the Monksville Reservoir, which provides water for northern New Jersey and recreation for kayakers, paddleboarders, and anglers.
It was not quite 9 a.m., and the lake shimmered in the morning light. Anglers were out trying their luck. I slipped into the parking lot with my K 75 making about as much noise as a sewing machine – even the geese on the shoreline were unperturbed. Walking out on the dock provided a taste of the natural beauty that’s so close to home.
Monksville Reservoir was created in the late ’80s by damming the Wanaque River. The idyllic lake is popular among boaters and anglers.
Continuing on Greenwood Lake Turnpike took me to its namesake body of water, which is a narrow 7-mile lake that straddles the border of New York and New Jersey. From the turnpike I could see boats bobbing in the water at South Shore Marina, where years ago I kept “Dumb Idea,” my 19-foot day sailer. Anyone who has owned a boat will understand the name. The road, which becomes Warwick Turnpike, was all mine as I curved a large arc around Upper Greenwood Lake.
My next stop was Wawayanda State Park, a wonderful 34,350-acre preserve with 60 miles of trails and a beautiful spring-fed lake with a wide swimming beach, a boat launch, and kayak rentals. It’s a great place to take a short break and enjoy the sun sparkling on the lake. I was only burning $10’s worth of gas, so there was no need to rush.
The black dirt and onion farms of Pine Island, New York.
I crossed back into New York, turned west onto Route 94, then north onto Sanfordville Road. Turning west on Pine Island Turnpike took me to Pine Island, an area famous for its onion farms and some of the blackest dirt you’ve ever seen. After a quick stop in town, where there’s a great restaurant called The Jolly Onion, I backtracked on the turnpike and turned north on Little York Road, a small country road with views of the fields and small tidy houses in dappled sunlight. I stopped at the Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery, which has a cafe, picnic tables, and acres of land. As I strolled the grounds, I admired the blooming roses and made a note to return for a longer visit.
Continuing east on Pine Island Turnpike, I turned east at West Street and rode into the heart of Warwick, a charming town full of cafes and restaurants. There’s free parking in a large public lot right off Main Street. I sought out a power outlet to recharge my phone and had a slice of pizza while I waited.
Farther down Main Street at the far end of town is a large public park with benches under towering oak trees, providing shade that complemented the spring breeze. On a little hill is the Old School Baptist Meeting House, a majestic white church built in 1810. It’s now maintained by the Warwick Historical Society, and I enjoyed a quick tour.
The Old School Baptist Meeting House in Warwick.
I left Warwick by riding south on Oakland Avenue (Route 94) and then turning east on Galloway Road (State Route 17A). A left turn on Kain Road took me to Bellvale Farms Creamery, which looks like a Norman Rockwell painting of a farmhouse and has an expansive view of a valley full of farms. It also serves delicious ice cream, but I didn’t want to spoil my appetite.
One of my favorite stops for breakfast or lunch is The Village Buzz Cafe, which is in the heart of the Village of Greenwood Lake on Windermere Avenue just off Route 17A. The cafe serves up hometown cooking with welcoming smiles all around, and its menu includes all-day breakfast, sandwiches, and sweets. Their handcut home-fried potatoes with onions alone are worth a stop. Out front there’s a chalkboard with positive affirmations written in different colors, and they reminded me of how lucky I was to be up on two wheels on a gorgeous day.
Nothing beats ice cream straight from the source.
By the time I returned home, I’d only ridden 89 miles, but the $10 I spent was a bargain for a great day of exploring hills, lakes, and curves.
Upstate New York is rife with bucolic scenery. (Photos by the author)
The two Northeastern stops of the 2021 Progressive IMS Outdoors tour are on consecutive weekends in September. The New York City event will be at the Brooklyn Army Terminal, September 3-5 (Labor Day is the 6th), and the Pennsylvania event will be at the Carlisle Fairgrounds, September 10-12.
This 281-mile route begins in Saratoga Springs, in the heart of upstate New York’s farm and horse country. The town is home to the Saratoga Race Course, one of the oldest horse tracks in the country, dating back to 1863. The annual meet runs from mid-July to Labor Day, but there is harness racing year-round. Saratoga is famous for its mineral springs and bath houses, and there are plenty of excellent restaurants and vibrant nightlife to enjoy.
Saratoga Springs and the surrounding area make for a great escape from the city, or a worthy destination in their own right. You’ll find arts and culture, gambling, gourmet dining, outdoor adventures, and more.
The route leaves Saratoga Springs to the south, on U.S. Route 9, and passes through Malta. It turns east onto State Route 67 and crosses the Hudson River at Mechanicville. Continuing east, Route 67 passes through Schaghticoke and follows the Hoosic River. At Eagle Bridge, the route turns south, and it picks up State Route 22 at the town of Hoosic Falls. At Lebanon Springs, it turns west on U.S. Route 20, then southwest on State Route 66. After crossing Interstate 90 and passing through Chatham, it continues on the Taconic State Parkway.
The 104-mile parkway took 40 years to build, from the mid-1920s until its completion in 1963. Parts of the road were designed by Franklin D. Roosevelt during his tenure as head of the Taconic State Park Commission, and we can thank him for insisting those sections follow the natural landscape instead of powering through in a straight line. Built in a simpler time, the Taconic has narrow lanes, minimal shoulders, and plenty of gentle curves, but do be on the lookout for accidents and state troopers.
The route ends at the George Washington Bridge in Manhattan. From there, many options are available to get to the Brooklyn Army Terminal, which is off the Belt Parkway (Interstate 287) on the edge of Upper Bay. Enjoy the show!
For more information about Progressive IMS Outdoors and to buy tickets, visit motorcycleshows.com.Rider is the media partner for the Adventure Out! area at IMS Outdoors.
Saratoga is horse country and thoroughbred farms abound. The Triumph Street Triple packs a few horses of its own.
Several times a year I ride north from my home in New York City to Saratoga Springs to visit family. Like any motorcyclist worth her salt, I’ve sussed out some truly glorious roads and turn what is normally a 350-mile roundtrip into a meandering 500-plus miles. Saratoga Springs and the surrounding area make for a great escape from the city, or a worthy destination in their own right. Options for entertainment run the gamut from arts and culture to gambling, outdoor adventures and gourmet dining — there’s something for every rider in your group.
The easiest way to get out of the city while still enjoying the ride is to take the Taconic State Parkway north. Long stretches of the roadway are in rough shape, and some of the worst patches are in big sweeping curves. Should you choose to roll on the throttle through those curves, I recommend good suspension and extra Vitamin I (ibuprofren). Or you can test your handling skills by navigating a slalom course between the potholes, like I do on my Triumph.
Allow me a moment to wax rhapsodic about my Street Triple. I used to ride a Bonneville, and while the beautiful Bonnie will always have a place in my heart, as a smaller, lighter rider, a sportier bike suits me better. The Street Triple is the very definition of “flickable,” and while my 2015 doesn’t have a ton of low-end torque, the smooth acceleration through the upper rev range makes getting there a pleasure. There is little that can compare to the distinctive pop-pop-pop of that throaty triple, mine made even rowdier with a Two Brothers slip-on exhaust.
Upstate New York is rife with bucolic scenery.
Now, where was I? Right, potholes on the Taconic.
The 104-mile parkway took 40 years to build, from the mid 1920s until its completion in 1963. Parts of the road were designed by Franklin D. Roosevelt during his tenure as head of the Taconic State Park Commission, and we can thank him for insisting those sections follow the natural landscape instead of powering through in a straight line. Built in a simpler time, the Taconic has narrow lanes and minimal shoulders. Posted at 50 and then 55 mph, the nimble Street Triple is perfectly suited to slip through bottlenecks created by drivers white-knuckling along at 40 mph. Though a state parkway, it isn’t boring and has plenty of gentle curves, but do be on the lookout for accidents and state troopers.
A view over Saratoga Lake so beautiful even a hummingbird needed a moment to take it in.
The Taconic ends at the junction with Interstate 90, but a better choice is to take back roads up to Saratoga Springs through farm and horse country. The town is home to the Saratoga Race Course, one of the oldest horse tracks in the country, dating to 1863. The annual meet runs from mid-July to Labor Day, but there is harness racing year-round. Saratoga is famous for its mineral springs and bath houses, and there are plenty of excellent restaurants and vibrant nightlife to enjoy. Its extensive, elegant historical district showcases many pristine Victorian mansions.
View from a hill south of Amsterdam. In the distance, I-90 powers west through the Mohawk Valley.
To head south back to New York City, I start by cutting 30-odd miles west to Amsterdam on State Route 67. There are rolling fields of corn and that upstate staple, Stewart’s Shops, where you can stop for a quick coffee and a warm-up. Even midsummer mornings can be chilly this far north. Amsterdam’s story is like that of many upstate towns, especially those along the Erie Canal. Industry boomed and then died, and now these places are trying to reinvent themselves for the modern era. Some are faring better than others, but almost all of them retain a shadow of their former glory in architecture and design, which makes a trip through this area feel like a trip back in time.
Route 67 runs into Route 30 near the intersection of all the major arteries in the area, including the muscular Mohawk River. A primary tributary of the Hudson, the Mohawk looks serene in the summer but is prone to dangerous floods, particularly in spring when the snow melt comes roaring down. Take Route 30 over the river and over the Thruway, and then civilization quickly gives way to the lovely curves and hills of the Schoharie Valley.
The original Blenheim Covered Bridge dates to 1829 and has been painstakingly restored. It claims the title as the longest single-span wooden bridge in the world, though it no longer connects to anything.
You don’t have to enjoy the smell of cow barns but it won’t hurt if you do, as Route 30 runs through mile after mile of farmland. Every 20 miles or so you’ll slow down from 55 to 45 to 35, one small town after another like links on a chain. If you’re fussy about filling up with 93 octane you may have to wait a minute to find a station, but they do exist.
These little towns are a living history of the ups and downs of upstate New York. Some look a lot worse for the wear while others have managed to thrive, hanging baskets of petunias cheerily welcoming just as you see the 35 mph sign. But all the parts of Route 30 are rife with historical markers and sites, including several covered bridges. Drop a kickstand and look around.
The Schoharie County Courthouse, beautifully preserved since 1870.
The upper portion of Route 30 often mirrors the curves of Schoharie Creek, making for a meditative, hypnotic ride. The Schoharie turns east just outside of the ambitiously named Grand Gorge, south of which are the headwaters of the East Branch Delaware River. Here the road flirts along with the creek as it gradually builds in volume, both you and the waters being drawn south.
I recommend stopping for a break in Margaretville. Ice cream at the Bun n’ Cone is optional, but however you refresh, you’ll want to feel bright-eyed and bushy-tailed before you hit the next section of the road. Follow the signs to stay south on Route 30 and enjoy 30 miles of pure happiness as the road undulates along the Pepacton Reservoir. My favorites are the big sweeping horseshoe curves, the kind motorcyclists dream of — the ones that seem to go on forever and challenge even the most experienced riders to hold their line, creating that perfect harmony of rider and road and machine.
A quiet back road in the Catskills.
The road along the reservoir is in fair to very good condition, some stretches recently repaved. I’ve seen all manner of bikes on this road and can pretty much guarantee that whatever you ride, it’ll feel like it was made for the Pepacton. In addition to those glorious sweepers, there are lovely views of the reservoir and, as the western shore marks the Blue Line boundary of the Catskill Park, the surrounding forests are thickly green in the summer and a riot of color in the fall.
You may well be tempted to make the run down to Downsville and then back up to the top once or twice, and there’s no shame in pursuing that desire. It’s a gorgeous road and deserves to be enjoyed. When you’re about out of gas, or it’s dark, or you were supposed to be home three hours ago, I recommend heading east on Route 206, another pretty little road that pops you over a hill and down into the town of Roscoe, which has staked its claim as Trout Town, USA. There are several breweries and distilleries in the area, which makes a compelling case for booking a room and making Roscoe your home for the night.
Roscoe, New York, aka Trout Town, USA, has a homey, small-town feel to it. Decades ago the New York Ontario & Western Railway used special “trout cars” to carry millions of hatchlings to stock local rivers and streams.
Roscoe has several small-town attractions, including a railway museum and a bridge handy for watching fly fishers ply their trade. If I’ve hit Roscoe by 1 p.m. or so I usually take the long way home — Route 30 down to Deposit and Route 97 along the Delaware River to Port Jervis. If you’ve spent your day riding Pepacton over and over again, you can pick up Route 17 and deadhead it about 80 miles back to the city.
The next time you ride out to Pepacton, add Route 10 along the Cannonsville Reservoir to your itinerary. There’s little in the world like the feeling of taking one of those big sweepers, the road unspooling ahead and the bike humming beneath, your hand on the throttle and your eyes up toward the exit, chasing that white line rolling away before you, the exhausting thrill of knowing you have so many more excellent miles to go.
Above the Amenia Hairpin, this lay-by looks over the New York landscape east of the Hudson River.
Snakes employ astonishing methods of locomotion. Legs? Who needs ’em! Using muscles and scales, snakes hug the landscape as they wind along their way. Roads can be like that, with narrow, winding runs of asphalt that hug each rise and bend.
Snaking asphalt brings joy to this motorcycle rider, and east of the Hudson River there’s a region with plenty of it. This area of small towns, farms and woodlands straddles New York’s border with Connecticut and Massachusetts. The rolling landscape means the roads rarely go straight, and with some route planning it’s easy to avoid population centers. Connecting roads with snake-like curves is the inspiration for this ride.
Roughly in the center of this region is the western Massachusetts town of Great Barrington. It has a picturesque, old-fashioned Main Street neighborhood and interesting options for eats, accommodations and entertainment, so it’s a good base of operations for two routes that begin and end there.
Map of the route taken, by Bill Tipton/compartmaps.com.
My friend Andrew joins me and we’re up early to take photographs in the best morning light. Andrew points out the Mahaiwe Performing Arts Center on Castle Street. Berkshire County, the westernmost part of Massachusetts, is renowned as an arts region, and this historic venue has been a performance site since 1905. One marquee is lit up and the neon calls to be captured.
Mahaiwe (“muh-HAY-we”) Theater on Castle Street in Great Barrington opened in 1905 as a vaudeville house and has presented arts programming continually ever since. A major renovation was completed in 2005.
On Main Street, at the corner of Taconic Avenue, the sun shines brightly on St. James Place. It was built as an Episcopal church in 1857 and by the late 20th century it had fallen into disrepair. But it was renovated and, in 2017, reopened as an arts center with offices and performance spaces.
Built in 1857 as St. James Episcopal Church, the restored St. James Place is now home to several Berkshire arts organizations.
Just south of downtown, we bear right onto Massachusetts State Route 23/41. After a quarter-mile on the left, in a green space next to Silver Street, we find the Newsboy Statue. In 1895, William L. Brown, who was a town resident and part owner of the original New York Daily News, presented it to the people of Great Barrington. I was a paperboy, so it feels right to stop and pay my respects.
The Newsboy Statue pays homage to young entrepreneurs (your humble scribe among them) who spread the news.
When 23 goes right, we stay left on 41 then make a quick right onto Mount Washington Road. It can be hard to find the signs that point the way to Bash Bish Falls State Park, but it’s worth the effort. Turn right onto Cross Road, right onto West Street and left onto Falls Road to the park. Bash Bish Falls is the highest single-drop waterfall in Massachusetts and a short walk from the parking area.
Bash Bish Falls is the highest single-drop waterfall in Massachusetts.
Continuing west lands us in New York, the first of many “border crossings” we’ll be making. We turn left at New York State Route 22, which will make several short appearances throughout our route, then start looking for Under Mountain Road. At U.S. Route 44, we go right and when we reach McGhee Hill Road, begin to meander through sparsely populated areas along serpentine roads.
We curve around Hunns Lake, then in Bangall turn hard left onto Bangall-Amenia Road. A ways on we merge back onto U.S. 44 and pull into the scenic overlook to survey the landscape from a standstill. Just below the overlook — and waiting when we hop back on the bikes — is the Amenia Hairpin, a delightful and downward sloping left curve. Farther along, Halls Corners Road and Chestnut Ridge Road keep us smiling.
Sometimes, snake roads appear to have their own scales.
By the Union Vale Fire House, a right on Clove Road has us winding south and a bit west. U.S. Route 9 eases us to Philipstown, then we turn left onto State Route 301 through Fahnestock State Park. The area ahead is known to local curve-loving riders, and we spot several enjoying it with a mechanical symphony from their bikes’ exhaust.
Back underway we’re on Gipsy Trail Road and County Road 41 to Farmers Mills. Haviland Hollow Road crosses into Connecticut. We wrap around Squantz Pond State Park and back into New York, then roll north through Pawling and Wingdale. At Dog Tail Corners Road we wag left and soon we’re in Connecticut again, crossing Bulls Bridge over the Housatonic River and turning north onto a gently winding stretch of U.S. Route 7 that parallels the river. The quaint village of Kent is a good place for a break, but we make our stop just beyond at Kent Falls State Park to see another great waterfall.
A few miles north is Lime Rock, home to the Lime Rock Park racing circuit. Actor and philanthropist Paul Newman spent a lot of time here, shunning the spotlight, making friends and honing skills that would lead him to the Sports Car Club of America national title (as an amateur) in 1976 and a second place finish with his team at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1979. Lime Rock Road goes right past the track, which is quiet today.
Old movie houses like Quirino’s Crandell Theater in Chatham, New York, offer an alternative to the Cineplex.
A right on Connecticut State Route 41 begins the return stretch north into Massachusetts and we arrive back in Great Barrington, leaving 221 snaking miles behind us. I notice that the First Congregational Church, which was in shadow this morning, is now basking in afternoon sun. Built in 1883 from locally-sourced limestone, it’s listed in the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.
Unlike early this morning, Great Barrington’s old-fashioned Main Street neighborhood is bustling now. There are interesting places to eat, shop, explore and spend the night. U.S. Route 7 just north of downtown resembles Anytown, USA, with additional options for accommodations, restaurants and stores, plus a microbrewery.
On such a calm, fair morning, we’re surprised by the absence of pilots at Koladza Airport in Great Barrington.
It’s another early start for day two and another easy roll down Main Street to Massachusetts State Route 23, then right onto State Route 71 and into New York before shooting briefly south onto New York State Route 22 and turning right onto County Road 21. In much of New York, numbered county roads are the roads less traveled, and in this region they embrace the rolling hills and keep me smiling. Sight distances are typically short and forest critters could emerge from anywhere, so I dial up my Spidey senses.
We like that creative use of an inverted curve sign, but wish it was pointing to breakfast.
Crow Hill Road and State Route 203 lead us to Chatham and another still-sleeping downtown. There’s no place open for breakfast yet so we continue to Old Chatham, but the Country Store hasn’t opened either.
My bike’s long shadow reveals how early it is…still too early for breakfast!
County Road 13 snakes through East Nassau and Stephentown, then we curl back west on County Road 16 toward Nassau. A right on Rabie Road curves toward West Sand Lake, then Route 351 goes to Poestenkill and Plank Road goes to Berlin. At State Route 22 we turn north to Petersburg then slither east up Taconic Trail (State Route 2). At the top of the ridge we cross into Massachusetts and wind back down to Williamstown.
Massachusetts State Route 2 cuts through the picturesque campus of Williams College. In front of the Museum of Art, we stop to look at several sets of large, disembodied eyes, sculpted in bronze. I ride my bike onto the sidewalk to set up a photo, and even though no one is around I get the feeling I’m being watched.
“Eyes” by Louise Bourgeios, standing watch next to Goodrich Hall at Williams College.
A short ways on, we turn right onto Luce Road toward Notch Road and the Scenic Byway to the summit of Mount Greylock. On a map, this narrow, 7-mile, seasonal jewel resembles a sidewinder, with successive climbing hairpins. We keep up the revs and power through, while staying alert for trail hikers crossing the road.
From a left at the T, Summit Road rises to the highest point in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts (3,491 feet). Reaching skyward another 92 feet is the Massachusetts Veterans War Memorial, a lighted beacon atop a granite tower, which was completed in 1932 and rededicated in 2017 after a two-year renovation. On a clear day we’d see nearly 100 miles over western Massachusetts, southern Vermont and eastern New York, but today we’re in the clouds.
The Massachusetts Veterans War Memorial rises 92 feet above the summit of Mount Greylock, the highest point in the Commonwealth (3,491 feet).
Also near the summit is Bascom Lodge, built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Out front I talk with a young couple who are “thru-hikers,” completing all 2,190 miles of the Appalachian Trail, which runs through here. They started in Georgia a few months ago and have a few more weeks to reach the end in Maine. What’s their hike been like so far? “It’s sure a good way to get to know someone,” the young man replies, eliciting a steely gaze and raised eyebrows from his companion.
Back down the mountain, Rockwell Road rewards us with more twisties and hairpins. At the bottom, a right on U.S. 7 and a sharp left on State Route 43 soon has us back into New York and more curvy county roads through Stephentown, East Chatham and Austerlitz. A short run north on New York State Route 22 and then east on State Route 102 returns us to Massachusetts.
Andrew circles (over and over) before Tracy Memorial Village Hall (c. 1913) in Chatham, New York.
Rolling through the village of Stockbridge seems to transport us into a Norman Rockwell painting, and there’s a reason for that. Norman Rockwell lived here, and his experience inspired his iconic scenes of 20th century American life. Fans of his work can go one mile south on Massachusetts State Route 183 to the Norman Rockwell Museum.
State Route 102 continues along the Housatonic River toward Lee and U.S. Route 20, where most vehicles (thankfully) turn into the outlet mall. We continue onto the best stretch of U.S. 20 in Massachusetts, Jacob’s Ladder Trail. The alternating downhill curves going into Chester are downright danceable on a motorcycle, and mellower curves continue all the way to Russell. There, a right on Blandford Stage Road takes the less traveled leg over to State Route 23.
Turning west, Route 23 twists and curls back to Great Barrington, all the way hugging asphalt undulations in that most enjoyable manner: like a snake.
West Branch Reservoir Causeway in Carmel, New York, is the southernmost point in our southern loop.
A solo rider flying the twisties of the Hawks Nest high above the Delaware River. Photos by the author.
When I head out for an overnight adventure, I like to ride back roads in the hinterlands that are devoid of the traffic and complexity of the 21st century. I seek the simplicity in life that naturalist writer Henry David Thoreau advocated more than 150 years ago. Cruising alongside lakes and rivers, through forests, over mountains and by farms on rolling, serpentine two-lane roads make my trip. Meandering through the hinterlands of New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania suits me as an excellent favorite ride.
Map of the route taken, by Bill Tipton/compartmaps.com.
I began my journey on Westbrook Road in Ringwood, New Jersey, crossing the Westbrook Bridge over the expansive 2,310-acre Wanaque Reservoir. Views of sparkling blue water licking the mountainous shorelines north and south of the bridge are impressive. Snaking along the bumpy shoreline road, I turned right onto Stonetown Road, a favorite of local riders. This rolling, weaving road runs through forests and past country homes before bursting into the open sky at the Monksville Dam and Reservoir. A parking area on the other side has a walkway across the dam and provides a scenic opportunity to stretch your legs.
The Saints Peter and Paul Russian Orthodox Church in Union Dale, Pennsylvania, started as a farm church for European immigrants in 1904 and was built at its current location in 1923. It gives you the feeling of being on the Russian steppes rather the farmland of Pennsylvania.
From the dam, I continued on Route 511 cruising through Long Pond Ironworks State Park and crossing over the reservoir toward the eight-mile-long Greenwood Lake, which is half in New Jersey and half in New York. You can ride along the east or west shore; both are scenic but Lakeside Road (the west side: Routes 511/210) has more expansive vistas of the lake. Rumbling along the sun-drenched Lakeside Road, I drank in the views of the sparkling water, boats and the forested mountains rising from the shoreline. Cruising into the Village of Greenwood Lake with its 1950s vibe, I connected with Route 17A, which serpentines up the mountain to The Bellvale Creamery overlook.
Thanks for the delicious ice cream!
There the hinterlands spread out before your eyes like a smorgasbord of farmland and forest, and the ice cream isn’t bad either. Gliding down the mountain on my 1,700cc Kawasaki Voyager to Warwick, I sailed over the waves of Routes 1A and 1, through the black dirt farmland of Pine Island while breathing in the sweet aroma of its many onion farms. Just northwest of Port Jervis is one of New York’s premiere motorcycling roads, the Route 97 Upper Delaware Scenic Byway. This fantastic road snakes alongside 70 miles of the mighty Delaware River. The famous Hawks Nest section has scenic overlooks hundreds of feet above the Delaware River, where Route 97 cuts into the mountainside and has more curves than a sidewinder.
Thundering northwest while paralleling the Delaware River is a rider’s dream: weaving in and out of forests but with river vistas of rapids, smoothly flowing sections and river runners. You might even spot a bald eagle nesting or swooping down from the heavens like a World War II dive bomber to snatch a tasty fish for its lunch.
“In the middle of the night
I go walking in my sleep
From the mountain of faith
To the river so deep” —Billy Joel, “In the Middle of the Night” The mighty Delaware River flowing below the Hawks Nest.
Crossing into Pennsylvania at Cochecton on the Damascus Bridge, I headed west on the winding and rolling Route 371, which travels into Pennsylvania’s lush farmland. At the Route 191 intersection, I headed northeast, continuing into rural Pennsylvania with its country churches, farms and woodlands. Soon this snaking road drifted back toward the forested western shore of the Delaware River. Reaching Route 370, I again headed west toward my night’s destination: an old inn at a great location. Unfortunately, I discovered it was much in need of improvements, so I shall say no more.
“Almost heaven, [Pennsylvania]
Younger than the mountains blowing like a breeze
Country roads, take me home”
—John Denver, “Take Me Home, Country Roads”
The next morning I fired up the Voyager and headed southwest on Route 370 to Route 670, both great roads that sail smoothly through the wide-open Pennsylvania countryside. At Belmont Corner, the rustic and bumpy Belmont Turnpike (Route 4023) leads through backcountry farmland; no gentleman-farmer farm stands here, just the real deal: cows, barns, manure and corn.
How sweet it is breathing in the scents of the Pine Island black dirt farm region.
I rode the bumpy Route 4023 south to Routes 247/296, which are equally scenic but a far less rustic ride with smooth pavement. Thundering toward Waymart, its mountaintop wind turbines stand guard over the territory below like centurions. South of Waymart, I turned onto Route 3028, bouncing my way through the countryside until I took respite at the humongous Lake Wallenpaupack. From there I cruised over the rolling hills and through the forests of U.S. Route 6 to Milford, where I stopped for lunch and a looksee at the motorcycle apparel and gear store: Life Behind Bars.
A lone kayaker enjoys some rays while feasting his eyes on the 5,700-acre Lake Wallenpaupack.
Riding across the Milford Bridge, high above the Delaware River, I felt like an eagle gliding through the heavens. Heading north on the sinuous Route 521 to Port Jervis, I decided to take the same route home from whence I came. With the sun bathing my face and the low rumble of my Voyager humming in my ears, I knew it would not be long until I again meandered through the hinterlands of New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania. After all, this favorite ride has a wild river, farms and forests, country churches and fantastic roads to ride.
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