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HJC i100 Modular Helmet | Gear Review

HJC i100 modular helmet

Wind noise is muffled, the view is clear, my head doesn’t feel like it’s being pulled off my shoulders – even at 70 mph – and there’s a slight stirring of the scant hair left on the crown of my head. I’ve never owned a modular helmet, typically preferring the three-quarter style, but when I was looking for something safer that still allowed some of the freedoms of a three-quarter and saw the reasonably priced HJC i100, I wanted to give it a try.

HJC i100 modular helmet

See all of Rider’s helmet reviews here.

A unique feature of the i100, which has a shell made of HJC’s Advanced Polycarbonate material, is its full-rotation chinbar for both open- and full-face riding modes, and it meets ECE safety standards in both modes.

The i100 wears comfortably, if a little heavy; the size XL weighs 4.4 lb. It’s wider than many full-face helmets because of the modular hardware, which also contributes to a little more squeezing of the cheeks when the chinbar is closed. However, riding at 70 mph with my Harley’s windshield removed (something I wouldn’t normally do with my three-quarter), there wasn’t much buffeting.

I’m mildly claustrophobic (ergo, my preference for three-quarter lids), and while the i100 doesn’t have as much ventilation as some other helmets, the movement of air through the chin vent was sufficient to not feel stifling, and the vent on the crown kept my head cooler than my three-quarter.

HJC i100 modular helmet

I appreciate how the i100’s faceshield locks in the open position (as does the chinbar), but it takes either two hands or two separate movements to get it fully closed. Pulling down on just one of the tabs on the bottom of the shield leaves a little gap on the other side that has to be pushed shut – or you must use two hands to pull down both tabs at once.

The i100 has a sunshield that lowers and raises smoothly using a lever on the left side. However, on my cruiser, the lower line of the sunshield is right in the middle of my field of vision. Supposedly you can adjust the height, but when I tried, the cog just rotated without any noticeable difference. However, I was able to easily slip on a pair of sunglasses using the glasses grooves in the removable/washable comfort liner, which is made of moisture-wicking, antibacterial material.

The HJC i100, which is also set up to accept the SMART HJC Bluetooth system (sold separately), has been a good introduction to the conveniences of modular helmets. It comes in White, Black, Matte Black, Semi Flat Titanium, and Hyper Silver, and pricing ranges from $329.99-$334.99.

The post HJC i100 Modular Helmet | Gear Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Triumph Unveils 2024 Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Limited Edition

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

For 10 years, Triumph Motorcycles has partnered with the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, an event that unites hundreds of thousands of classic and vintage style motorcycle fans all over the world to raise funds and awareness for men’s health. To celebrate this landmark anniversary, Triumph has created 250 new Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Limited Edition motorcycles.

Founded in 2012 in Sydney, Australia, the DGR was created by Mark Hawwa as a way to bring together motorcycle enthusiasts focused on a common cause for good. Today the DGR spans the world with more than 90,000 riders taking to the streets in more than 800 cities. The event has raised more than $37 million for prostate cancer research and men’s mental health. Triumph became the official motorcycle partner of the DGR in 2014, bringing a commitment to increase awareness, grow participation, and ultimately increase fundraising in support of this worthy cause.

Related: 2023 Triumph Rocket 3 R | Road Test Review

During the unveiling of the Bonneville T120 Black, Miles Perkins, Triumph’s head of brand management, called the DGR “the world’s largest road-riding charity event.”

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

“The numbers are important,” Perkins said, “but the impact is even greater than the money – phenomenal from the perspective of what this means to everyone involved and the joy of riding and the joy of being in the company of people united by passion for the motorcycling, for riding together, and contributing what they can to make lives better.”

One of Triumph’s most significant contributions has been in growing awareness and motivating fundraisers around the world by providing motorcycles from Triumph’s Modern Classic range as rewards for the top fundraisers.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

“To me, this was a real match made in heaven,” Perkins said.

Triumph Chief Commercial Officer Paul Stroud called it “a perfect fit …. something that is much more than sponsorship.”

“Everyone involved over the last decade of the DGR, from the Triumph and DGR teams, to our dealers, the army of DGR organizers and ride hosts, and the legions of riders who passionately support this wonderful event and cause should be justifiably proud of the impact their efforts have had,” Stroud said.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

In previous years, the motorcycles provided by Triumph have included a one-of-a-kind Triumph Thruxton RS DGR Edition and a custom ‘1959 Legends’ Triumph Bonneville T120 and matching Gibson Les Paul Standard guitar, awarded to the 2022 ride’s highest fundraiser as part of a collaboration between Triumph and Gibson.

Related: Triumph Announces New Colors, Names for Select 2023 Models

This year’s bike, the Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Limited Edition, features a custom DGR look. The monochrome metallic Phantom Black and Crystal White two-tone paint scheme follows a distinctive ‘dress suit’ inspired design, drawing inspiration from ‘dressing dapper’ for dinner—which is also how most riders dress for the DGR itself.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

Gold fuel tank stripe detailing and hand-painted gold pinstriping on the side panels are also inspired by the DGR’s dapper clothing and accessory style, such as the classic gold pocket watch or tie-pin. The custom DGR 2023 gold script logo is featured on the fuel tank and side panels, and a brown stitched bench seat with pillion strap enhances the vintage custom look.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

Each bike comes with a numbered certificate of authenticity featuring the motorcycle’s VIN and DGR edition number, hand-signed by the DGR’s Mark Hawwa and Triumph CEO Nick Bloor. There will be 250 bikes built, but only 249 will be available for purchase (for $13,495 in the U.S.), since edition number #001 will be presented to the highest fundraised for the 2023 DGR.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

Related: Triumph Unveils Speed Triple 1200 RR Bond Edition

But of course, the DGR Limited Edition wouldn’t exist without the Triumph T120 Black. In 2022, the classically styled Bonneville T120 received a few updates to its 1,200cc liquid-cooled parallel-Twin, which makes a claimed 79 hp at 6,550 rpm and 77.4 lb-ft of torque. It has a 6-speed transmission with a slip/assist clutch and chain final drive. Other features include two ride modes (Road and Rain) and switchable traction control and cruise control.

The 2022 Bonneville T120 also shaved 15 lb off the previous generation and features new aluminum wheels (18-by-2.75 inches on the front and 17-by-4.25 inches on the rear). Stopping power comes from Brembo front brakes with a twin disc set-up and 2-piston calipers, and ABS is standard.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

At the bike’s unveiling, Mark Hawwa, founder of the DGR, said that 10 years ago, they were “trying to find our feet and learn how to grow this event and really partner up with the brand that we felt had the same synergy as us.”

“I don’t think any of us ever realized that this would become such an important relationship, one that has touched even the guys that work at Triumph,” Hawwa said. “Obviously, times change, people move on, but each of those people that have been a part of the Triumph journey and DGR journey are still with us—riding motorcycles, taking part, getting dressed up and looking the part as well. It’s been an incredible 10 years, and I still pinch myself.”

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

Hawwa said the DGR is more than just the ride or the bike.

“For us, it’s the fact that we’ve been able to really create meaningful relationships. We’ve been able to connect a lot of people together. We’ve been able to really teach guys that it’s okay to be vulnerable and that it’s okay to talk about their health and also to educate them along the path as well.”

The Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Limited Edition is considered a 2024 model year bike. There will be 50 units available in the U.S., and dealers will start taking deposits on April 14.

2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman's Ride Limited Edition

For more information, visit the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride website or the Triumph Motorcycles website.

See all of Rider‘s Triumph coverage here.

The post Triumph Unveils 2024 Bonneville T120 Black Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Limited Edition first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

2023 KTM 390 Adventure | First Look Review

2023 KTM 390 Adventure

KTM has announced details of the 2023 KTM 390 Adventure, which will be available in dealerships in March. The 390 Adventure has been given a new look and increased off-road capability, for a bike that KTM says offers “sheer usability, superb power, and incredibly light handling.”

2023 KTM 390 Adventure

In our review of the 2020 model, our reviewer said the KTM 390 Adventure was “a lot of bike for the money, with an impressive list of standard features that make it a serious threat to value-oriented Japanese competitors like the Honda CB500X and Kawasaki Versys-X 300, as well as BMW’s G 310 GS.”

Related: 2020 KTM 390 Adventure Road Test Review

The 2023 KTM 390 Adventure still features a compact 4-stroke DOHC 373cc Single with four valves, a balancer shaft, a PASC slip/assist clutch, and electronic fuel injection. Two catalytic converters ensure the system breathes within emission targets, and the vapor design of the 3.8-gal fuel tank also contributes to its eco-friendliness.

2023 KTM 390 Adventure

Also returning for the 2023 model and contributing to the bike’s off-road persona is the Offroad ride mode (offering more rear-wheel slip) and linked Offroad ABS (disengaged on the rear, reduced on the front), as well as throttle-by-wire, Motorcycle Traction Control, and cornering ABS. Stopping power comes from Brembo BYBRE brakes (320mm front and 230mm rear discs with a 4-piston calipers on the front and single-piston in the rear), and the bike has adjustable WP APEX suspension.

2023 KTM 390 Adventure

See all of Rider‘s KTM coverage here.

The KTM 390 Adventure also still has 19-inch front and 17-inch rear wheels shod in Continental TKC70 tires, but for 2023 the wheels are spoked and have black anodized aluminum rims. The bike also comes with a two-tier seat that can be easily removed to reveal storage space or swapped out for other models in the KTM PowerParts collection, LED lights, and a windscreen with two positions. It has a claimed wet weight of 379 lb.

2023 KTM 390 Adventure

KTM says both the lightweight steel trellis chassis and the new 2023 colorway takes design cues from the company’s work at “the sharp end of rally competition.”

MSRP is $7,399. For more information, visit the KTM website.

The post 2023 KTM 390 Adventure | First Look Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Endless Curves | Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Tour Review

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
This winding road hugs the sides of colorful peaks rising from the sea at Calanques de Piana, Corsica.

The Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour was my first guided motorcycle tour. It won’t be my last. For nine days in mid-October, I rode with 10 experienced riders from six countries on intensely winding roads through spectacular scenery. We toured the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia (an autonomous region of Italy) and Corsica (an autonomous region of France). Adriatic Moto Tours made it easy: Just show up with your gear and ride.

Related: European Motorcycle Touring: What to Know Before You Go

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 1: Olbia, Sardinia

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour

After exploring Olbia’s old town on foot, I returned to the hotel to find 10 motorcycles lined up like soldiers awaiting inspection. I recognized a smiling face from the Adriatic Moto Tours website and said hello to Anže Colja, our guide for the Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour. Six riders in our group had taken an AMT tour before, and one was taking his fifth.

Later, at the introductory briefing, Anže offered insights about riding these Mediterranean islands. “The roads are fantastic,” he said, “the best in Europe. Every day we will ride narrow, twisty, technical roads, but you’re not on a racetrack, you’re on vacation. Can you see far enough to pass? Wait until it’s safe, then commit and go! Take care of each other, and have fun.” 

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Each morning, Anže briefed us on the day’s ride.

Born and raised in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, Anže is an economist by training and an affable soul by nature. He speaks Slovenian, English, German, and Croatian, plus enough Italian and French to help us order meals in restaurants that cater to locals rather than tourists. And, as we discovered, he’s one talented rider.

Anže explained that our group would stay united, though not always together, using the system of Static Corner Marking. Anže would always lead, one rider would bring up the rear, and riders in between would alternate “marking” where the route turns by remaining at the junction until the next rider arrives. Each rider also had a GPS with daily routes pre-programmed, so it was hard to get lost. And if we wanted to go on our own, we simply let Anže know.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
The coasts of the Mediterranean islands of Sardinia and Corsica are dotted with small ports and harbors full of fishing boats, sailboats, and yachts.

We also met Peter Cvelbar, who drove the support van and managed tour logistics. Peter is a staff sergeant in the Slovenian Army, and he used a portion of his leave to work this tour. Each morning, we found our bikes wiped down and positioned for a smooth departure, but he did much more. Our luggage was waiting for us in each new hotel room. Bike or equipment issues were quickly addressed. We were given information regarding travel, food, and culture. Both disciplined and easygoing, Peter worked his magic behind the scenes so all we needed to do was ride.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour

After being assigned bike keys, registration papers, and GPS units, we checked out our machines. I chose a BMW F 900 XR for its torquey twin-cylinder engine, flickable handling, and strong brakes. Its Galvanic Gold colorway certainly stood out too.

When we gathered for dinner, a guide’s principal value – local knowledge – was revealed. In Olbia’s old town, Anže led us off the main pedestrian way and along a succession of narrow cobblestone alleys, past a sign declaring “NO PIZZA,” and downstairs to an intimate restaurant. Staff were expecting us, and our table was waiting. After dessert, we returned to the hotel and traded stories on the portico, eagerly anticipating the next day’s ride. (Breakfast and dinner are included on this tour. Riders pay for their lunch, alcoholic drinks, and fuel.)

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 2: Olbia – Ajaccio

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour

Our first day riding took us north along the famous Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) and past the granite and basalt rock formations that form the two islands. The route was scenic and curvy, but Anže said we hadn’t seen anything yet.

In Santa Teresa, we caught a ferry to Bonifacio, Corsica, a historic city on a cliff, and then rode north toward Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte and the capital of Corsica. The roads to Ajaccio became tight and technical, with curves that just kept coming.

Along the coastal road in Coti-Chiavari, I spied an unpaved lay-by with a stellar view, so I pulled over. While shooting photos, I walked up to the highest rocky point. A man was sitting there, seemingly alone with his thoughts, but he gestured for me to join him. “Parlez-vous anglaise?” I asked, hoping he spoke English. He shook his head. “Non.” So instead of talking, we shared the dramatic vista in silence. After a while I said, “Au revoir,” and we shook hands genuinely, cementing a friendship of coincidence. 

At dinner in Ajaccio, Anže asked the group which of the next day’s two route options we preferred. I was leaning toward the longer option (more riding), but he suggested the shorter option through the sparsely populated interior. “Less traffic,” Anže assured me. “And twistier.” Local knowledge proved its worth once again.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
In Coti-Chiavari, Corsica, I shared a spectacular view of the Mediterranean with this coincidental friend.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 3: Ajaccio – Corte

Corsica has more mountains and rivers than any Mediterranean island, and the roads hug the constantly changing landscape. After a mid-morning break for coffee, we rode to the Calanques de Piana, spiky granite formations that rise from the sea in shades of red, brown, and orange. The road is carved into their sides. Places to stop and safely enjoy the view are few, but Anže knew just the spot. I set up a group photo against a red rock backdrop; that one’s going in a frame.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Stone peaks in shades of red, brown, and orange jut from the sea at Calanques de Piana, Corsica. The island is an autonomous region of France.

Next, we turned inland for the mountain route. Flat land is rare on Corsica, so it’s common to see cows grazing along the road. They seemed accustomed to motorcycles passing by, but we slowed down and gave them space. I had to wait as two cows crossed a one-lane bridge at a leisurely cow pace. We also encountered large pigs foraging in the road on fallen chestnuts. Later, Anže explained that Napoleon had planted chestnut trees along roads in lands he controlled to provide his troops with shade and a source of food. The pigs appreciated that too.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Happy riders from six countries mug for the camera at Calanques de Piana, Corsica.

We continued curving and gaining elevation. Our hotel in Corte overlooked the rugged landscape we rode through. The view from my room was stunning. For dinner, I chose local pork (chestnut fed?) roasted for six hours and served with cannellini beans. It was succulent – definitely not your mom’s pork-and-beans.

See all of Rider‘s International Touring stories here

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 4: Corte – Bonifacio

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour

Anže mentioned at our first rider briefing that he’s an instructor at a high performance riding school. I rode behind him as we ascended mountains through one hairpin turn after another. I noticed he was looking back at me in his mirrors – always the instructor.

We built a fair distance between us and the next rider, so Anže pulled into a lay-by to regroup. While we waited, I asked how I was doing through the hairpins and what I could do better. He suggested looking even deeper into corners and modulating speed in turns using the rear brake instead of rolling off. On these roads, I practiced this technique over and over. When our group stopped in Cozzano, Anže and I continued the lesson over coffee.

That evening, we caught a dazzling sunset from the limestone cliffs at Bouches de Bonifacio, a nature reserve. After some free time exploring the narrow, cobbled alleys of Bonifacio’s old town, Anže led us to a small restaurant that caters to Corsicans.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Views from the cliffs at Bonifacio, Corsica, did not disappoint.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 5: Bonifacio – Alghero

As we boarded the ferry that brought us there three days ago, we left behind the most intense, continuous twisties I’ve ever ridden. Anže assured me there would be more in Sardinia. Along the route in Località Multeddu, we visited Elephant Rock, which lives up to its name. Farther on, we stopped at the coastal town of Castelsardo, known for colorful homes built into the mountainside above the sea.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
In Località Multeddu, Sardinia, Elephant Rock lives up to its name.

We savored more twisties and sparse traffic until we approached our destination of Alghero. In this historic and congested city, Static Corner Marking kept the group united. We all arrived safely at our hotel as the sun was setting over Rada di Alghero.

The Carlo V Hotel and Spa is rated five stars. It’s the fanciest hotel I’ve ever visited while riding a motorcycle. Throughout this tour, our accommodations exceeded my expectations. The dinners were impressive as well. Each evening, Anže ably selected starters for the table, then we all ordered a la carte from the menu.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
At Castelsardo, Sardinia, colorful homes are built into the rocky hillside.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 6: Rest Day in Alghero

A day away from continuous, intense twisties afforded my mind and body a well-earned break. Fueled by a growing Italian vocabulary, a willingness to wander, and two scoops of mid-morning gelato, I explored the sprawling old town. After lunch, four of us enjoyed afternoon cocktails and a swim in the hotel pool, which wasn’t heated – brrrr!

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
We spent our rest day in Alghero on Sardinia’s western coast.

When my stomach signaled it was ready for dinner, I searched for cucina tipica Sarda (typical Sardinian cuisine) and chose pescata de giorno (catch of the day). The server took me to select the specific fish the chef would prepare for me. “You like grilled with patatas and pomodori, signore?” Sì, grazie. The chef served my dish tableside, and everything was delicious. A lemony concoction arrived for dessert, then I ordered a dram of 16-year-old scotch to complete the experience. Walking back to our hotel, I ran into tour members dining al fresco on the seaside promenade. We all had a good day off.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 7: Alghero – Cala Gonone

Refreshed and ready, we followed Anže along the winding coastal road south to Bosa. As we rolled through town, a smiling old woman stood on her stoop and waved to us. I blew her a kiss in return, and by the look of her reaction, I suspected it made her day.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Everyone enjoyed riding at their own pace, and we’d regroup at stops.

We kept twisting east on roads less traveled through Macomer and on to our first stop, the Nuraghe Losa of Abbasanta. It’s one of thousands of cyclopean stone monuments unique to Sardinia and built by a Bronze Age people called the Nuraghi between 1,600 BCE and 1,200 BCE. Anže arranged a private tour, and a delightful woman named Pina helped us appreciate the monuments and the people who built them.

Over lunch, Anže reminded us to embrace Sardinia’s offering to riders: roads with practically perfect grip and corners that seem to continue forever. AMT schedules the Riders’ Heaven tour twice a year: in spring (before tourist season begins) and in fall (after it’s over). That’s why these roads were largely ours.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Near Siniscola, Sardinia, this road curves along below the ridgeline.

For afternoon coffee, we stopped in Orgosolo, which has murals painted on buildings throughout the town. Most feature themes of social resistance, and many seem informed by the style of Picasso’s Guernica. 

Next, we carved curves down the mountains to Cala Gonone. Our hotel was across the street from the Mediterranean Sea, and several of us enjoyed a swim before dinner. Thankfully, the water was warmer than the hotel pool in Alghero. After dinner and more conversation, I retired for the night to the sound of waves crashing ashore outside my window.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Rocky scenery surrounded us, such as here in Zérubia, Corsica.

Adriatic Moto Tours Riders’ Heaven Day 8: Cala Gonone – Olbia

After following closely behind Anže for several days, I volunteered to bring up the rear, which presented opportunities to enjoy scenery that wasn’t whooshing past in a blur. Beyond Lula, we gained elevation along a meandering road chiseled into the mountainside. Up to the east were bald peaks reaching skyward. Off to the west was a rolling valley of green forest interrupted occasionally by terraced farmland. A road was carved into the next distant mountain too, leading to a village perched on a rocky hillside. Farther west were multiple rows of rock-topped mountains fading into the horizon.

From Nuoro to Bitti, the roads zigged and zagged through cork plantations and over mountains. Eventually we reached Olbia and concluded this incredible journey at the same hotel where it started. Peter welcomed us with champagne, and we raised our glasses in celebration. What a trip it had been!

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
Bark has been harvested from this cork oak. The bark will grow back, making it a sustainable resource.

At our final dinner, Anže told me that Sardinia and Corsica are his favorite places to ride, without question. “Not for the sights or food, which are still good, but for the roads, which are insanely good. The grip is great, the curves have positive camber, and you just keep twisting through mountains, forests, and coastlines. And off-season, when the crowds are gone, you can just go.”

AMT’s Riders’ Heaven tour was a fantastic experience for me at every level: bike, roads, routes, scenery, sights, cities, towns, people, food, accommodations, leadership, logistics – the whole package. And leveraging a guide’s local knowledge brings it all together.

Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Riders' Heaven Guided Motorcycle Tour
A champagne toast marks the end of the Riders’ Heaven tour. Salute!

In 2023, the Sardinia & Corsica – Riders’ Heaven tour runs May 13-21 and Oct. 14-22. Visit the Adriatic Moto Tours website for more information.

The post Endless Curves | Adriatic Moto Tours Sardinia and Corsica Tour Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

2022 Yamaha MT-10 | Video Review

2022 Yamaha MT-10 review
The 2022 Yamaha MT-10 is a backroad bomber. Photo by Joseph Agustin.

We test the updated 2022 Yamaha MT-10, the 160-hp scream machine that’s at the top of Yamaha’s Hyper Naked lineup. Aggressive new styling includes a pair of functional intake snorkels with Acoustic Sound Grilles that send a howling symphony up into the cockpit. Other updates include a revised 998cc CP4 inline-Four, new R1-derived electronics, upgraded brakes, refreshed ergonomics, a new TFT display, and more.

Read our full review here and watch our video review below:

2022 Yamaha MT-10 Specs

Base Price: $13,999
Website: YamahaMotorsports.com
Engine Type: Liquid-cooled, transverse inline-Four, DOHC w/ 4 valves per cyl.
Displacement: 998cc
Bore x Stroke: 79.0 x 50.9mm
Horsepower: 138 hp at 9,400 rpm (rear-wheel dyno, previous model)
Torque: 77 lb-ft at 9,200 rpm (rear-wheel dyno, previous model)
Transmission: 6-speed, cable-actuated slip/assist wet clutch
Final Drive: Chain
Wheelbase: 55.3 in.
Rake/Trail: 24 degrees/4.0 in.
Seat Height: 32.9 in.
Wet Weight: 467 lb
Fuel Capacity: 4.5 gal.
Fuel Consumption: 36 mpg

The post 2022 Yamaha MT-10 | Video Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT | Long-Term Review

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT
The 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT won Rider’s Motorcycle of the Year award last year, and we’ve tested it over a period of 12 months. Photos by Kevin Wing.

Related Story: 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT | Road Test Review

Mileage: 6,294
Base Price: $14,899 (2021); $14,999 (2022)
Accessories: $729.95

After a year together, it’s finally time to say goodbye to our 2021 Motorcycle of the Year. We’ve had a great time with the Yamaha Tracer 9 GT, so we’re sad to see it go.

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT
We added several Yamaha factory accessories to improve wind protection, storage capacity, and passenger comfort.

The Tracer 9 GT is the culmination of several generations of development and refinement, and the result is a fantastic lightweight sport-tourer built around Yamaha’s 890cc inline-Triple, which is good for 108 hp at 10,000 rpm and 63 lb-ft of torque at 7,200 rpm at the rear wheel. This is one of the most fun and engaging engines around – it’s like hanging out with three hellraising buddies who know how to keep it cool in polite company but love to get rowdy when the clock strikes 6,500 rpm.

In stock trim, the Tracer 9 GT is a versatile, comfortable machine that served us well on day rides, weekend jaunts, and multiday trips. We appreciated the Yamaha’s good wind protection, upright riding position, generous legroom, dual-height seat (31.9/32.5 inches), and adjustable handlebar and footpeg positions. None of our testers complained about soreness in wrists, lower backs, or shoulders, nor was engine heat ever an issue.

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT
We replaced the OE Bridgestone tires with Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart IVs.

Any time the road turned twisty, we were glad to be on the Tracer. With its raucous engine, excellent chassis, and semi-active suspension, we attacked corners with gusto, enjoying the confidence boost that a well-sorted motorcycle can provide. 

To get to the good stuff, we logged many miles on the slab. One of our nits to pick is how busy the engine is in 6th gear at freeway speeds. At 65 mph, the engine turns 4,200 rpm. We lost count of how many times we grabbed ghost shifts to 7th thinking there might be another gear up top. We’d like to try a rear sprocket with one less tooth to make the gearing taller.

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT
Yamaha’s Touring Windshield is taller and wider than stock.

In terms of maintenance, we did routine checks of tire pressure, oil level, chain tension and lubrication, and such. We changed the oil and filter after about 5,000 miles, and we used the recommended Yamalube products. We also took the Tracer to our local Yamaha dealer after a safety recall was announced that all 2021-22 MT-09 and Tracer 9 GT models had an improperly programmed ECU that could cause engines to stall unexpectedly in certain circumstances. It was fixed quickly at no charge.

The Tracer proved to be unforgiving of laziness with the clutch when pulling away from a stop, both before and after the recall repair. Without adequate revs, we’d stall the Tracer like a newbie.

After about 5,000 miles of hard use, the rear Bridgestone Battlax T32 GT tire was toast. We spooned on a set of Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart IV radials, and they’ve provided excellent grip and ride quality. MSRP for the Roadsmart IV tires is $189.95 for the front (120/70ZR17) and $250.95 for the rear (180/55ZR17). You can read our Roadsmart IV review here.

To enhance the Tracer 9 GT’s touring ability, we installed several Yamaha factory accessories, including the Touring Windshield ($179.99), Top Case Mounting Kit ($116.99), 50L Top Case ($289.99), 50L Top Case Backrest Pad ($74.99), and 50L Fitted Top Case Inner Bag ($66.99). 

2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT
We installed Yamaha’s 50L Top Case. It’s also available in a 39-liter size.

Installation was straightforward. The Touring Windshield is 2.8 inches wider and 3.2 inches taller than stock, and it made a big difference in terms of wind protection. The Tracer’s 30-liter saddlebags are large enough to hold a full-face helmet in each side. The 50L Top Case bumps total storage capacity to 110 liters, and the backrest pad was appreciated by passen-gers.

Over the course of nearly 6,300 miles, we averaged 44.4 mpg, which yields 222 miles from the 5-gallon tank (premium unleaded is required). Our fuel economy ranged from as high as 60.4 mpg to as low as 33.7 mpg, the latter after giving it the whip in a serious headwind.

After whining to Yamaha reps about having to return the Tracer 9 GT, we wiped away our tears when they offered us a lollipop: an accessorized 2022 MT-10. Stay tuned to find out how we get along with the Tracer’s big brother.

The post 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT | Long-Term Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura | First Ride Review

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T
This winter, the 2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura joins the company’s seven-model 2022 motorcycle lineup. Photos by Gary Walton and Leviathan.

We recently posted our first-ride review of the seven-model 2022 motorcycle lineup from CFMOTO, which ranges from the 126cc Papio to the 700CL-X Sport. I had a chance to sample each model on a private test track, and then I got a more extensive 350-mile ride on the 650 ADVentura.

Check out Rider‘s 2022 Motorcycle Buyers Guide

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T
The 2023 800 ADVentura comes in two versions: the up-spec “T” (Terrain) with spoked wheels shown above and the base-model “S” (Street) with cast wheels.

During the press event, held in late June, I also got a first ride on an eighth model, which was under embargo until August 1 and will be available in “late winter” as a 2023 model. The embargo has come and gone, so I can now talk about the 800 ADVentura. (When I asked one of CFMOTO USA’s reps how to pronounce the name, he said “add-ventura” rather than “A-D-V-entura,” which is a mouthful.)

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T
During our full day of testing eight different CFMOTO models, we played games like Avoid the Tar Snake and Tag the Flag.

GEAR UP
Helmet: Nolan N80-8
Jacket: Fly Racing Coolpro Mesh
Gloves: Fly Racing Brawler
Pants: Fly Racing Resistance Jeans
Boots: Fly Racing M16 Leather Shoes

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T
Having moved on to the 889cc version of its LC8c parallel-Twin in the 890 Adventure, KTM was happy to allow CFMOTO to use the 799cc version from the 790 Adventure. Note the 800MT on the bodywork – that’s the model name used in other markets.

Given American tastes for large motorcycles and the popularity of adventure bikes, the 800 ADVentura is the CFMOTO model that’s most likely to resonate with U.S. buyers. As described in my 2022 lineup review, CFMOTO established a partnership with KTM back in 2014, and soon after began producing KTM 200/390 Dukes for the Chinese market. In 2018, CFMOTO and KTM broke ground on a joint venture production facility in China.

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T

Given the cozy relationship between CFMOTO and KTM, it’s no surprise that CFMOTO’s top-of-the-line model is powered by a liquid-cooled, DOHC, 8-valve 799cc parallel-Twin borrowed from the previous-generation KTM 790 Adventure, which makes a claimed 95 hp and 57 lb-ft of torque. Equipped with throttle-by-wire, it has two ride modes (Sport and Rain) and cruise control.

The 800 ADVentura has a chromoly-steel frame, fully adjustable KYB suspension (front/rear travel is 6.3/5.9 inches), 19-inch front and 17-inch rear wheels, and J. Juan triple-disc brakes with cornering ABS. It has a 5-gallon fuel tank, full LED lighting, and a 7-inch TFT display.

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T

Two versions of the 800 ADVentura will be offered, an “S” (Street) model with cast wheels and a “T” (Terrain or Touring, you decide) model with spoked wheels. The T is also equipped with a quickshifter, a tire-pressure monitoring system, a steering damper, a skid plate, crash bars, handguards, and a centerstand. Claimed curb weight is 496 lb for the S and 509 lb for the T.

There was only one bike at the launch, an 800 ADVentura T, and it was hogged by everyone. I managed to get in a few laps, just enough to realize its potential. The 800 ADVentura has the wide, flat seat and comfortably upright seating position with generous legroom that we’ve come to expect from adventure bikes, and is part of what makes them so popular (unless you are short of inseam, of course).

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T

When you’re on a closed circuit, as we were on the Minnesota Highway Safety & Research Center’s 1.2-mile, 6-turn paved road course with a one-third-mile front straight, it’s only natural to give the whip to whatever you’re riding. With the 800 ADV-T in Sport mode, I pinned the throttle and felt it surge forward with gusto.

I was the 509-lb gorilla on a track shared with wee Papios and playful 300s, so I used the 800’s wide handlebar to give a wide berth to other bikes and slice my way through the two chicanes made of traffic cones. Cornering ABS gave me the confident to dive deep into turns and trail brake to scrub off speed, and the J. Juan binders did my bidding without complaint. The 800 ADV-T handled with confidence and poise, and I was sorely tempted to exit the track and hit the road.

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T

At the end of the day, after indulging in the gluttonous BBQ buffet laid out by Big Mo Cason (who drove all the way from Des Moines, Iowa, to cater the event) and a midafternoon downpour that drenched the track, I spent my last dozen or so laps of the day staring at the back of the 800 ADVentura. John Burns, who writes for Motorcycle.com and looks like Willie Nelson in high-viz gear, had grabbed the 800’s key and I did my best to chase him down on a 700CL-X.

I outweigh JB by 50 lb, probably 55 after hoovering two plates of brisket, mac-n-cheese, slaw, and cornbread at lunch, so my meat sack in the saddle knocked a big dent in the 700CL-X’s 83-lb weight advantage. Factor in the 800’s 21-hp upper hand over the 700 (95 hp vs. 74), however, and you’ve looking a pretty even odds. Lap after lap I’d close in on John, but I could never quite catch him. Burns got in way more laps on the 800 ADV-T than I did, and he can write – and ride – circles around me, so check out his review over at MO if you desire more depth and entertainment.

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura T

Overall, the 800 ADVentura felt solid, responsive, and – not surprisingly given the origin of its engine – on par with similar offerings from Europe. We look forward to getting more seat time for a more in-depth evaluation.

2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura Specs

Base Price: $9,499 (S model)
Price as Tested: $10,499 (T model)
Website: CFMOTOusa.com
Warranty: 2 yrs., unltd. miles
Engine Type: Liquid-cooled, transverse parallel-Twin, DOHC w/ 4 valve per cyl.
Displacement: 799cc
Bore x Stroke: 88.0 x 65.7mm
Horsepower: 95 hp @ 9,250 rpm (claimed, at the crank)
Torque: 57 lb-ft @ 8,000 rpm (claimed, at the crank)
Transmission: 6-speed, cable-actuated slip/assist wet clutch
Final Drive: Chain
Wheelbase: 60.3 in.
Seat Height: 32.5 in.
Wet Weight: 509 lb
Fuel Capacity: 5.0 gals.

The post 2023 CFMOTO 800 ADVentura | First Ride Review first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Beartooth and Beyond | Favorite Ride

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Heading into the clouds of the Beartooth Pass south of Red Lodge, Montana. Photos by Marilyn Rich.

Hell yes! That is the only plausible answer when friends invite you to join them on an eight-day motorcycle ride through the mountains of Montana (including the legendary Beartooth Pass), Wyoming, Idaho, and Alberta, Canada.

We start our ride in Billings, Montana, on a pair of Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Classics rented from EagleRider, and head south to Laurel, where we pick up U.S. Route 212. We continue south to Red Lodge, where the road becomes Beartooth Highway and crosses into Wyoming on its way up to Beartooth Pass (10,947 ft). This is one of the best motorcycling roads in America, and it is easy to see why, even in the rain.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride

Scan QR code above or click here to view the route on REVER

West of the pass, we turn south on Wyoming Route 296, which is also known as the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway. The byway has great sweepers as well as picturesque views of the Absaroka Mountains as it climbs up and over Dead Indian Pass (8,071 ft).

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Looking down on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.

We arrive in Cody in time to tour the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a superb display of life in the Old West. The center has five museums: the Buffalo Bill Museum, which is about his life and times; the Plains Indian Museum, which showcases art and heritage; the Draper Natural History Museum, highlighting the ecosystems of Yellowstone; the Whitney Western Art Museum; and the Cody Firearms Museum.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
The Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody, Wyoming.

We awake to a light rain that lingers until we head into the mountains west of Cody, and then the heavens open up with what my granddad used to refer to as “a real frog-strangler.” Looking over and around the windshield, I am barely able to make out the taillight of the bike in front of me, and I have no idea how he manages to follow the road on our way back to Beartooth Highway. The clouds part as we ride into Cooke City, Montana, a Wild West town where motorcycles have replaced horses at the hitching posts.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Crossing into Wyoming on the way to Beartooth Pass.

Our adventurous ride through Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park includes a wide variety of wildlife; a large RV that decides to stop, unannounced, in the middle of the road to take some pictures; and a herd of bison that crosses the highway one or two at a time, backing up traffic for a mile. When our turn comes to run the bison gauntlet, an exceptionally large bull gets ready to cross the road. We are directly behind a pickup truck, so I suggest to our riding partners that when the truck starts to move, we should stay close to its rear bumper so it looks like we’re being towed.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Buffalo looking for water in the parched Yellowstone River.

After spending the night in Jackson, Wyoming, we ride west on State Route 22 over Teton Pass (8,432 ft) and into Idaho. The winding roads, the views of the Tetons to the east, and crossing rivers with trout fisherman in waders fly casting made for a fun, scenic ride. We continue north on a stretch of U.S. Route 20 known as Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.

We cross back into Montana and end our day in Butte, once a wealthy copper mining town and more recently home to the late Evel Knievel, the legendary motorcycle daredevil. In the morning, we ride through downtown to view the mansions that signify a bygone era, and then head west through mining country. It’s Saturday morning and we are getting low on gas, so we stop in the tiny town of Phillipsburg to fill up. The gas station also serves as a general store, a casino, and a bar, all of which have numerous customers.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
The Hidden Moose Lodge in Whitefish, Montana.

We turn north from Missoula in 100-degree temperatures, finally gaining some relief along the shady roads on the eastern shores of Flathead Lake. Heading back west across the top of the lake, we encounter the largest flock of eagles we have ever seen.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Going-to-the-Sun Mountain in Glacier National Park.

We spend the night at the Hidden Moose Lodge in Whitefish, an exquisite place that serves a gourmet breakfast every morning. With full bellies, the bike feels noticeably heavier as we climb Going-to-the-Sun Road through Glacier National Park, one of the few roads that can give Beartooth Highway a run for its money. We venture across into Alberta, Canada, and visit Waterton Lakes National Park, which is the northern part of the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Entering Alberta, Canada, at Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park.

Being from the flatlands of Florida, we’re overwhelmed by the endless peaks and scenery of the Rocky Mountains. We stay at the quaint Kilmorey Lodge, overlooking the Emerald Bay of Waterton Lakes. Relaxing by the gazebo with a refreshing beverage, we’re joined by countless white-tailed deer that consume any vegetation not covered in chicken wire.

Heading south the next morning takes us back across the border through the towns of St. Mary and Browning in northern Montana. A sign on the outskirts of Browning warns of strong crosswinds, but there’s nothing more than a gentle breeze. Ten miles farther south on U.S. Route 89, the breeze becomes a 60-mph crosswind that we battle with for the better part of 40 miles.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
At Pine Creek Pass in Idaho.

The town of Dupuyer, Montana, has a population of 93 and no general store or gas station, but it does have two bars. We opt for the Ranch House of Dupuyer for lunch and are pleasantly surprised when the owner/bartender/chef cooks up a superb pulled pork dish. It’s served by his children, ages four and seven, who provide better service than waiters at many fancy restaurants.

After riding through the haze of wildfire smoke, we stay overnight in Great Falls. The final leg of our journey takes us across the flatlands to the small town of Ryegate, where we are disappointed to discover we’ve missed the annual Testicle Festival.

Beartooth and Beyond Favorite Ride
Lunch stop at the Ryegate Bar & Cafe in Ryegate, Montana.

We arrive back in Billings and return the Harleys to EagleRider. Over eight days and 1,500+ miles, I can say that there was not a single road that I would not ride again in a heartbeat. Great roads, beautiful country.

The post Beartooth and Beyond | Favorite Ride first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Chasing Quail | The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
The 12th edition of The Quail Motorcycle Gathering drew a crowd of nearly 3,200 to enjoy 270 vintage, classic, and custom bikes as well as a wide variety of vendors and food purveyors on a beautiful day in May. Photos by the author and courtesy Kahn Media.

From my home in Southern California, it’s just a day’s ride to the scenic Monterey Peninsula on some of the state’s most sublime motorcycling roads, including Highway 1 on the majestic Big Sur coast. Good food and nightlife on a Friday night in Monterey are steps away from dozens of hotels ranging from reasonable to posh, so an overnight run is both easy and fun. Add the prospect of attending a large vintage and custom motorcycle concours on the green grass of the nearby upscale golf course, and you can see why The Quail Motorcycle Gathering has been a great success since the first one in 2008.

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
Catching up after a two-year break, the 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering celebrated the 50th anniversary of Harley-Davidson’s iconic XR-750, which was actually in 2020, with a featured class.

Plenty of enthusiasts flock to The Quail just for the day, so the parking area along Valley Greens Drive becomes quite a motorcycle show in its own right. This year, 3,200 spectators enjoyed 270 notable and highly polished motorcycles arranged just so on the grass of the Quail Lodge & Golf Club in Carmel Valley, ringed by vendors of every sort. The one-day event cost $55 and ran from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., so attendees had to keep moving to see and do it all.

Led by Gordon McCall, Director of Motorsports for Peninsula Signature Events, The Quail Ride kicks off the event on Friday (not to be confused with Why We Ride to the Quail, a two-day charity ride for the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation that starts on Thursday in SoCal – for more information, visit Motovational.org). The Quail Ride is a 100-mile loop around this gorgeous area limited to 100 riders that includes two laps of Laguna Seca Raceway with its famous Corkscrew, an experience that’s worth the price of admission alone.

Listen to our interview with Gordon McCall on the Rider Magazine Insider Podcast

The Quail has hosted as many as 400 machines in past years, but as McCall said this year, “It’s too many bikes.”

“You can’t see them all in a day, and we’re a one-day event,” he said. “So we pared that back. This to me is the heart and soul of the motorcycle community. We’ve got a lot of smaller companies, smaller vendors, and they help make this possible. Just look at this – people are in a good mood. We’re ready – enough with hiding under a rock for two years.”

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
The Best of Show award went to this 1951 Vincent Rapide owned and customized by Max Hazan.

Indeed, after a two-year break due to the pandemic, the 2022 Gathering may have been a bit smaller, but I still had trouble taking everything in. In addition to traditional classes like British, Italian, Japanese, Competition, and Antique, the event showcased five featured classes. Two-Stroke “Braaaps” comprised on- and off-road ring-ding superstars, like the 1986 Suzuki RG500 Gamma from Matt Torrens of California. Other classes highlighted minibikes, BMW /5 Series motorcycles, and the Harley-Davidson XR-750, a crowd favorite and one of the most successful racebikes of all time.

While this is a very social event, it’s the bikes that are the primary draw, and there was no shortage of interesting, amazing, and historical hardware to ogle. Vintage machines wearing a time-earned patina or lovingly restored to original or better condition by the best in their field are most prevalent, but the show also includes bikes from some of the icons of the custom motorcycle world, like Max Hazan from Hazan Motorworks in Los Angeles. Hazan’s wildly custom and beautiful 1951 Vincent Rapide won Best of Show, a controversial choice to some given the irreverent nature of customs based on famous vintage bikes.

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
Chris Carter of Motion Pro accepts the Spirit of the Quail award for his multiple championship-winning 1984 Honda RS750.

But the 40-plus judges on the committee, led by veteran Chief Judge Somer Hooker, also gave top awards in many other classes to near-perfect history-making motorcycles. An incredible 1984 Honda RS750, for example, ridden to three Grand National Championships by Bubba Shobert (and owned by Chris Carter of Motion Pro) was given the Spirit of the Quail award.

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
The “mini bikes | BIG FUN” class was highlighted by this 1968 Honda Z50, which Steve McQueen had customized by Von Dutch.

Yamaha brought a fleet of famous flat-trackers from its racing past, like the 1977-78 Kenny Roberts Racing Specialties-designed, monoshock-framed MX250, one of two bikes champion racer Jeff Haney rode to multiple lap records during his undefeated 1978 season at Ascot Park. Arch Motorcycles, the company started by actor Keanu Reeves, was there with its pricey, out-of-this-world production bikes.

The Gathering was also a rare opportunity to try out apparel like airbag vests from Helite or cool jackets from Walter Leather Company, and a silent auction supporting the Monterey County Youth Museum offered everything from golf at the Quail Lodge & Golf Club to stays at The Peninsula Chicago and New York hotels.

“The success of this year’s The Quail Motorcycle Gathering was truly overwhelming,” said McCall. “From the immense support of our incredible sponsors to the amazing spectators and the diverse demonstration of remarkable motorcycles and classic cars, we are so proud to have come back stronger than ever and are excited to see what 2023 will bring.”

The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering
Former AMA pro racer and industry legend Thad Wolff (left) with his arm around Rider’s longtime Editor, Mark Tuttle. Wolff competes in ARHMA trials on his restored 1964 Triumph Tiger Cub, which he entered in the Competition Off Road class.

Me too! Next year, The Quail Motorcycle Gathering is scheduled for Saturday, May 6, 2023. Tickets will go on sale this fall, and it’s likely the all-inclusive passes will be limited in number and sell out again, so be sure to put it on the calendar.

For more info, visit Peninsula.com/en/signature-events/events/motorcycle.

The post Chasing Quail | The 2022 Quail Motorcycle Gathering first appeared on Rider Magazine.
Source: RiderMagazine.com

Dead Reckoning | Touring Western Massachusetts

On the Road Dead Reckoning
In early New England graveyards, such as Adams Cemetery in Wilbraham, Massachusetts, grave markers are irreplaceable historical documents that tell stories carved in stone. (Photos by the author)

“You’re riding your motorcycle to find graveyards – on purpose?” The conversation with a young police officer on a road construction detail in western Massachusetts was brief, but it motivated me to share why old graveyards are fascinating places to explore.

Rewind to the 1970s. My dad was a college professor whose academic interests included early New England graveyards. On weekends and summer vacations, he dragged my sisters and me along to find them. Long before GPS, such trips often became a quest since Dad’s approach to navigating involved dead reckoning. “I wonder where that road goes?” he’d say. “One way to find out.” It’s fair to say that Dad informed my interest in exploring on motorcycles.

On the Road Dead Reckoning

Scan QR code above to view route on REVER, or click here

Since Massachusetts has some of America’s oldest communities settled by Europeans, it has some of the country’s oldest graveyards. Three of Dad’s favorites were in the towns of Longmeadow, Deerfield, and Wilbraham, all in the Connecticut River Valley of western Mass. I decide to revisit these graveyards with the benefit of an adult perspective. Since they’re not even 40 miles apart, I extend the ride a couple hundred miles using Dad’s “I wonder where that road goes” approach, and along the way I find other old graveyards to explore.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
A cut flower signifies death, an hourglass shows time has run out, but a rooster suggests a new dawn.
On the Road Dead Reckoning
With eyes looking up and wings, this effigy implies the soul’s flight to heaven.

The ride begins in Longmeadow. Along Williams Street, behind historic First Church, is the Olde Burying Ground, c. 1718, a small section within Longmeadow Cemetery. In old graveyards like this, carvings in stone offer insights into family life, social status, occupations, religious beliefs, sickness, tragedy, and the ways people conceived of death.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
The Olde Burying Ground, c. 1718, a section of Longmeadow Cemetery, is the town’s oldest burial ground.

The stone of Ebenezer Bliss concludes with this stark epitaph: “Death is a Debt To Nature Due Which I have Pay’d And so must You.” The nature of one’s death is often explained, such as from smallpox, childbirth, or drowning, although Adjt. Jonathan Burt’s stone leaves us wondering, because he “departed this life in a sudden and surprising manner.”

From Longmeadow, I point my BMW F 750 GS north on U.S. Route 5 across the Connecticut River, then west on State Route 57. To avoid built-up sections of Agawam, I cut through Rising Corner and rejoin 57 past the Southwick fire station. The curves beyond Granville Gorge entice me to quicken the pace, though as I enter the village of Granville a flashing speed limit sign convinces me to roll off.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
Center Cemetery, c. 1753, in Granville was located away from the church, a widespread practice at the time.

Up the hill beyond the town hall, I come upon Center Cemetery, c. 1753. As with many old graveyards that are no longer “active” (accepting new burials), one cannot drive into this graveyard, so I park just off the road. Also like many old graveyards, it isn’t next to a church. Some early settlers of New England, notably Puritans, located their dead away from the everyday lives of the living.

The headstone of Lt. Samuel Bancraft, Granville’s first settler, includes a slight variation of the epitaph I saw earlier in Longmeadow: “Death is a debt, to nature due. I have paid it, and so must you.”

On the Road Dead Reckoning
This headstone in Center Cemetery includes a variation of an epitaph popular in the era.
On the Road Dead Reckoning
“…on her left Arm lieth the infant Wich was still Born.”

Continuing west, I enjoy several miles of new tar, but on the steep downhill curves to New Boston I am cursing the inventor of tar snakes. Beyond the village, I notice unpaved Beech Plain Road, and a right turn takes me along stands of trees dressed in vibrant yellow fall foliage. There’s not a tar snake in sight.

In Otis, I merge onto State Route 8 north and then lean west onto State Route 23, an entertaining two-lane that hugs the contours of the Berkshire Hills. Past the village of Monterey, I see a sign for River Road. Dad explained that roads of that name are usually curvy and rarely dead end. Right on both counts!

On the Road Dead Reckoning
Any dog-loving rider needs to find out where this road goes!

Following a bridge-out detour, I arrive in Sheffield. On the other side of U.S. Route 7 there’s a sign for Bow Wow Road, and being a dog lover, I need to see where it goes. A ways after it turns to dirt, I find Pine Grove Cemetery, c. 1758. I see family plots for Olds and Curtiss and wonder if these graves include ancestors of the automobile and aviation pioneers of those names.

I continue on North Undermountain Road and Pumpkin Hollow Road. At the village of Alford, Center Cemetery, c. 1780, warrants investigation. Among the finds is this pithy epitaph: “Gone not lost.”

On the Road Dead Reckoning
Down the road a piece, Bow Wow Road turns to dirt and delivers your humble scribe to Pine Grove Cemetery in Sheffield.

Leaving the town center, West Road gets the nod over East Road, and after a couple turns I’m on State Route 41 riding north through Richmond to Hancock. History buffs can visit Hancock Shaker Village. Shakers were a religious community known for their elegantly functional barns and furniture, and for their devotion to celibacy. (The latter may account for their current lack of numbers.)

Heading west on U.S. Route 20 takes me over the New York border to State Route 22 north and Stephentown. A right on State Route 43 returns me to Massachusetts, having sidestepped Pittsfield’s population center. Another right on Brodie Mountain Road leads to U.S. 7 north. At the five-corners intersection, I turn right onto State Route 43 and follow the Green River to Williamstown, a quintessential New England college town. At the junction of State Route 2, a left leads to lively Spring Street and multiple options for eats and coffee.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
In the 18th century, death’s heads began to soften with angel wings and carvings suggesting life everlasting.

Refreshed and re-caffeinated, I head west toward North Adams and know exactly where to go: up the Mount Greylock Scenic Byway. This technical twist-fest leads to the highest point in Massachusetts (3,491 ft). Rockwell Road winds me down the other side of the mountain, and at the Mount Greylock Visitor’s Center, I turn around to ride the route in reverse. This 30-mile round trip is too much fun to pass by.

East of North Adams, the scenic Mohawk Trail (Route 2) rises through the famous Hairpin Turn, on to the town of Florida, then back down through Mohawk Trail State Forest. Exciting curves and elevation changes are enhanced by the clear autumn day. At Charlemont, I go north on State Route 8A, another twisting gem, to Branch Road, which tracks the west branch of North River east to State Route 112. This two-lane path curves quick and easy south to Ashfield where a left on State Route 116 puts me on a favorite twisty two-lane. But first, I stop at Elmer’s, an eatery popular with locals as well as motorcyclists passing through.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
A monument for the War of Nationality, 1861-1865.

While jawing with some old-timers, I learn there’s a “really old” graveyard I should see on Norton Hill Road. As I pull up to Hill Cemetery, I can tell from the styles of gravestones that it’s no older than mid-19th century, but a war memorial right next to the road rewards the stop. Erected in 1867, it includes this wording: “TO THE EVER LIVING MEMORY OF THE SONS OF ASHFIELD WHO DIED FOR THEIR COUNTRY IN THE WAR OF NATIONALITY 1861-1865.” It’s the only place I have seen the U.S. Civil War described using this term.

At Creamery Road, I turn left toward South Ashfield then savor those curves on 116 to South Deerfield. It’s easy to bypass busy U.S. 5 via Lee Road and Mill Village Road to reach the Old Deerfield historic district. There, at the end of Albany Road, is another of Dad’s favorite graveyards, the Old Deerfield Burying Ground, c. 1690s (aka Old Albany Cemetery).

On the Road Dead Reckoning
Some old graves, including these at Adams Cemetery in Wilbraham, are marked by both headstones and footstones, carved with complementary designs.

More than a dozen stones date back to the 1600s, the oldest one for Mary Blanchard, who had 10 children with her first husband, John Waite, and nine more with her second husband, John Blanchard. Notably, this graveyard includes a monument to 47 settlers killed during a raid on the town by native residents and their French military allies on February 29, 1704.

Walking the rows of stones, it’s intriguing to note how the styles have evolved over time. Early carvings with skulls gave way to skulls with wings, then winged angels, and then urns with weeping willows. Few parents still give their newborns names like these: Eleazer, Flavia, Zenas, Temperence, Dorcas, Ithamser, Arrethusa, and Thankfull Experience. Also here is a gravestone for a young woman whose name is hard to read without chuckling: Fanny Forward.

Leaving Deerfield, a short stretch north on U.S. 5 connects to another River Road, this one following the Connecticut River south to Mount Sugarloaf. Beyond the bridge, a right onto State Route 47 south follows the river’s other bank where harvested tobacco fields and the Mount Holyoke Range provide scenery.

On the Road Dead Reckoning
It’s fitting that Dad is buried in one of the graveyards that so intrigued him.

Keeping to roads less traveled, I make my way through South Hadley, Belchertown, Ludlow, and Wilbraham, to Adams Cemetery, c. 1740. Gravestones here include dozens with epitaphs that speak to the difficulty of life and inevitability of death. Consider two:

  • “Friends and Physicians could not save, My mortal body from the grave.”
  • “Youth blooming learn your mortal state, How frail your life, how short the date.”

It’s fitting that Dad is buried here in one of the graveyards that so intrigued him – particularly one that is actively preserved and celebrated as a historical resource. Even if the graveyards in your neck of the woods aren’t as old, it’s likely they’re peaceful, beautiful, and interesting places to explore. When you’re enjoying a ride, take the opportunity to experience history in outdoor museums along the way. Explore old graveyards – on purpose.

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