In this motorcycle Christmas tale, originally published in the December 2021 issue of Rider, contributor Scott A. Williams relates the story of being cut off my a Massachusetts State Trooper and getting a surprising gift in return.
It was one of those Christmases where family was in far-flung locations. With just my wife, daughter, and me at home, important holiday obligations were addressed by early afternoon. The sun burned in an azure sky as the temperature rose into the 50s – rare for late December in Massachusetts – and your humble scribe was getting antsy.
“Go take a ride,” my wife insisted. “We’re going to bake cookies and you’ll be in the way. Get out of here.”
Making a plan as I rode along, I headed west over the Connecticut River toward the hill towns for fun roads, blissfully free of traffic. I calculated that I’d have time to reach Huntington before turning north for a ways, and then back east to make it home before dark.
Riding on U.S. Route 20 through the outskirts of Westfield, I spied a statie stopped at an intersection on the left, just ahead. (“Statie” is what Massachusetts natives call our state troopers.) Ideally, he’d be turning right, back toward the city, but without warning the cruiser cut in front of me. I hit the brakes – hard – and delivered a bwaaaa! from my bike’s air horn. Hey, hey, hey, I’m riding here! Inside my helmet I uttered words I do not recommend saying to a police officer in person.
If I had cut off an officer in such a manner, I’d be producing my license and registration. It was clear to me that the officer didn’t look before abruptly pulling out. Had he looked, he’d have seen me approaching, wearing high-viz gear and a white helmet, burning four accessory light arrays in addition to the OEM headlight, and riding the speed limit on an empty road with no obstructions on a clear day. I was there. If a careless civilian had cut me off, I may have dropped a gear and zipped by, but it was a statie.
Contributor Scott A. Williams, fortunately not in cuffs after his Christmas motorcycle joy ride with a Massachusetts statie.
Now, though, he was pulling away at a good clip. No lights or siren, just noticeably above the limit. I decided to keep up. Perhaps this wasn’t the wisest decision, but I stayed back at what I concluded was a respectful distance – and I started to make really good time. This section of U.S. 20 is the Jacob’s Ladder Scenic Byway, and from here out to Becket it’s my favorite stretch of 20 in the state. The road parallels the Westfield River to Huntington, then gains elevation in Chester up to Becket through a succession of S-curves. I know this road well, but I had never ridden it quite so briskly.
There’s a state police barracks in Russell, and I started thinking that this cruiser with the distinctive blue and gray paint scheme would turn in, but it did not. Approaching the village of Huntington, the statie slowed the pace. I followed suit. Was he preparing to turn north onto State Route 112? That’s another great winding road in western Mass that earned a state-issued scenic byway designation. It’s where I was planning to go, but given these unusual circumstances I felt I should be open to alternatives. One was presented when the statie continued west on 20.
The rapid rate resumed through Blandford State Forest to the town of Chester, where again the statie eased off a bit going through the village. But when those S-curves came into view, the Ford Police Interceptor sped up for that familiar, winding, uphill run.
By now this unexpected and exhilarating ride was taking me a good 40 miles out of my way, and I knew I had to start heading back east at some point. The day’s unusual warmth was melting snow, and with clear skies, the temperature would plummet once the sun went down, so black ice would be a threat. But with little traffic other than a lead-footed statie, I wanted this ride to last.
In Becket, the cruiser turned right onto Route 8 north. Recalculating … I could head north through Becket and Washington up to Hinsdale, then start a return trip east on Route 143 through Peru, Chesterfield, and Williamsburg. From the standpoint of entertainment on a motorcycle, this was all good. When I reached Northampton, I could hop on Interstate 91 and then the Mass Pike to straighten out the last leg home.
I stuck with the statie and turned north on Route 8. The snaking tar hugged the landscape past forests and farms, but I realized it couldn’t last much longer. As the center of Hinsdale approached, I made my move, signaling my intent to turn right on 143. The statie flashed his light bar twice and continued straight.
I interpreted those flashes to mean, “Sorry I cut you off back there, hope you enjoyed the ride.” Yes, officer, I thoroughly enjoyed the ride. Forty extra miles flew by in not as many minutes, leaving me with a wide grin and a great Christmas memory. No hard feelings, sir, but please watch for motorcycles.
Scenic U.S. Route 6 near Coudersport, Pennsylvania.
When I hear the first whispers of the siren’s call to hit the road, my desire to rumble off on a multiday trip slowly rises to a crescendo until I have no other choice but to pack my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT and ride toward the horizon. On a motorcycle tour such as the one I recently took into the Pennsylvania Wilds on U.S. Route 6, the journey is as important as the destination, so I take time to explore along the way.
Regardless of the destination, the trip itself must satisfy my need for the pastoral – wild land, scenic roads, and the peaceful simplicity of small towns. Cruising U.S. Route 6 deep into the hinterlands of Pennsylvania fulfills all those criteria, making for a deeply enjoyable excursion.
Riding west on Pennsylvania’s famous Route 6, a designated scenic byway, takes you through the Endless Mountains region to the north-central part of the state, known as the Pennsylvania Wilds. This region is devoid of urban/suburban sprawl and comprises over 2 million acres of public land, 29 state parks, eight state forests, ample farmland, and hundreds of miles of rural roadways to ride.
A covered bridge highlights the greenery that graces PA Route 706.
Route 6 provides a diverse and scenic ride through Pennsylvania, but it also traverses the entire country from Provincetown, Massachusetts, to Bishop, California. Construction began in 1926, and it is now the second longest road in the country at 3,227 miles. Route 6 through Pennsylvania is like a wilderness path leading modern-day explorers on steel steeds deep into the Keystone State’s hinterlands, home to bear, deer, coyote, rattlesnake, fox, bald eagle, and elk.
I began my journey by crossing into Pennsylvania from New Jersey on the Milford Bridge over the majestic Delaware River. From Milford, Route 6 begins a rolling, curving climb from the river to the highlands. Throttling on the power, I flew through forests and past ponds until reaching the big enchilada – or locally, the “Big Lake” – Lake Wallenpaupack. Thirteen miles in length, with 52 miles of shoreline and 5,700 acres of surface area, it is the second largest lake within Pennsylvania’s borders. There are six public recreations areas and a wide array of accommodations, outdoor activities, dining, and shopping.
The clear waters of Lake Wallenpaupack.
Wanting to savor this moment – and location – I turned south at PA Route 507 into a parking area and stretched my legs by walking along the shoreline of Lake Wallenpaupack and atop the dam. Route 6 passes the base of the dam as it continues to Hawley, one of the typical turn-of-the-century small towns along this route.
Mostly a two-lane rural highway, Route 6 does have a few congested areas along the way, such as in Honesdale, but Honesdale to Waymart is smooth sailing – or riding. The mountains around Waymart are capped with humongous wind turbines, which are an impressive sight, but I prefer my mountains au naturale.
Scottish Belted Galloway cows are as tough as their native Scotland. They didn’t smile for the camera.
Past Mayfield, I left Route 6 and took PA Route 107 to avoid the major congestion around Clark Summit, reconnecting with Route 6 at Factoryville. From there I cruised through the countryside to Wyalusing, where my Vulcan climbed into the mountains with confidence.
At the summit, both Wyalusing Rocks and Marie Antoinette overlooks are must-stops. Wyalusing Rocks, located 500 feet above the Susquehanna River, was once used as a signaling point for the Iroquois Indians. The Marie Antoinette Overlook is named after the former Queen of France of “Let them eat cake” fame; supposedly she once planned to immigrate to this area.
The view from Marie Antoinette Overlook on Route 6.
The river, farmland, and hills unfolded before my eyes, embracing the blue horizon and making me think of Jimi Hendrix’s lyric “Excuse me while I kiss the sky.”
From Wyalusing Rocks, I weaved west with the sweet sound of the Vulcan pulsating in my ears and the cool, crisp air enveloping me. Mount Pisgah State Park is just 2 miles north of Route 6 at West Burlington. This 1,302-acre park has a lake, picnic area, swimming pool, and a scenic overlook of the Endless Mountains region. The park provides a nice stop for rest and a walkabout.
Continuing west on my asphalt “river of dreams” through small villages and the countryside, I eventually cruised into Wellsboro and the rider-friendly Sherwood Motel – my base for exploring more of the Wilds.
A lush farm along PA Route 706.
Wellsboro is a gateway to this rural region and a popular destination for riders exploring the area. It epitomizes small-town 19th-century America so much so that its streetlamps are still lit by gas. Settled in 1806, it was named in honor of Mary Wells, one of the original settlers. Restaurants, stores, and parks are within walking distance of motels. The first night, I had a tasty dinner at the Steak House Restaurant. Initially, I was a bit anxious about dining solo, but the staff was friendly and welcoming, which is typical of most hinterland Pennsylvanians.
The morning greeted me with a cool but sunny day – perfect riding weather. Firing up my Vulcan, I rolled south on PA Route 287 to PA Route 414 west. Route 414 is one of the prettiest rides in the entire state. This section through part of the Pine Creek Gorge area is rustic, with a few small communities and scattered homes.
The Lakeview Store near Sinnemahoning State Park on PA Route 872 makes for a perfect snack stop.
Over thousands of years, Pine Creek carved the 47-mile gorge also known as the PA Grand Canyon. The 62-mile Pine Creek Rail Trail is used for hiking, river travel, bicycling, horseback riding, and cross-country skiing. Outside of the wilderness protected area, riders can cruise Route 414 as it slides along for miles next to Pine Creek.
Route 414 through Pine Creek Gorge crosses a one-lane steel-truss bridge.
Parking areas with comfort stations offer river and rail trail access. At the Blackwell Access area, I met a young couple from Maryland who were going to backpack into the surrounding wilderness. We talked a bit, and then I wished them luck and warned them to watch out for the timber rattlesnakes that live in the area. Each June there is an annual rattlesnake roundup festival throughout the region.
Riders stop at the Blockhouse Cafe.
Continuing my ride, I passed the quaint village of Cedar Run and weaved back and forth on bridges crossing Pine Creek. The roadway crawled up a mountainside presenting a great view. At the intersection with PA Route 44, I roared into the mountains of Tiadaghton State Forest. About 5 miles north of Haneyville, I turned west on Hyner Mountain Road heading toward Hyner Run and Hyner View state parks. With the sun on my face and the sweet mountain air filling my lungs, I was in rider heaven.
The narrow, winding road to the summit of Hyner View can be challenging, but the views are spectacular. Forested mountains roll toward the sky like a vast green sea, and below, PA Route 120 winds through the valley alongside the West Branch of the Susquehanna River.
Hyner View State Park overlooks the West Branch of the Susquehanna River.
I connected with Route 120 and continued west toward Renovo, once a thriving railroad company town of more than 4,000 people that has dwindled to a population of 1,228. Entering Renovo on Route 120, I stopped at a moving memorial for the soldiers who gave their lives protecting our country. A green battle tank that matches the lush grass and surrounding forest guards the memorial.
A Sherman tank guards Memorial Park off PA Route 120 in Renovo.
Route 120 heads west alongside the Susquehanna River and the railroad tracks enveloped by thousands of acres of state forests. This route west to Sinnemahoning is beautiful and one of most desolate areas I traveled through. I rode for miles without seeing another soul. It was the first time on the trip that I felt completely alone.
Wyalusing Rocks Overlook on U.S. Route 6 provides expansive views of the Susquehanna River.
People ask if I get lonely or nervous on solo trips, but I actually don’t. Whenever I pulled over for a photo or route check, people often stopped and asked me if I needed help. Sometimes they offered advice on the road conditions or suggested a scenic stop. It reminded me of Blanche Dubois’s line in A Streetcar Named Desire: “I’ve always relied on the kindness of strangers.”
At PA Route 872, I blasted north through Elk State Forest and stopped at George B. Stevenson Dam and Sinnemahong State Park’s wildlife viewing area. Unfortunately, I did not spot any elk. From there, I cruised north out of the mountainous area into lush hills and returned to Route 6 again at Lymansville.
Tubers enjoy the pristine waters of the Delaware River, one of the few major U.S. rivers with no dams.
Turning west, I followed Route 6 to Smethport, PA Route 59 west to Ormsby, and then south to Kinzua Bridge State Park, home to the Kinzua Sky Walk. The park’s namesake bridge was once known as the Viaduct, a railroad structure that spanned 2,053 feet across – and 301 feet above – the Kinzua Gorge. Partially destroyed by a tornado in 2003, what remained of the bridge was converted into a pedestrian walkway.
Visitors can now walk 600 feet out on the remaining support towers to enjoy sweeping views of the gorge and surrounding mountains, as well as a glass platform at the end of the walkway for breathtaking views down below. The Kinzua Sky Walk is an especially impressive place to enjoy fall colors.
The 600-foot-long Kinzua Sky Walk at Kinzua Bridge State Park is a popular destination for riders. Alas, motorcycle parking on the bridge is not allowed.
Cruising along Route 6, I made my way back to Wellsboro. There are three recommended stops along the way: Larry’s Sport Center in Galeton, which sells Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki, Yamaha, and Suzuki motorcycles, and the Colton and Leonard Harrison state parks, both of which have impressive views of Pine Creek Canyon.
Back at the Sherwood Motel, I enjoyed a relaxing soak in the warm water of the pool. Afterwards, I had dinner in the lounge of the historic Penn-Wells Hotel, originally built in 1869. Conversing with the bartender and locals, I felt as comfortable as a regular.
The next day, I began my journey home heading south on Route 287 to Morris, but this time I went east on Route 414. And what a great ride it was – weaving and rolling through the countryside, passing farms and surrounded by the green hills on the horizon.
Riders leaving the summit of Hyner View State Park.
Rejoining Route 6 for a spell at Towanda, my Vulcan climbed back up the mountain by the Wyalusing Rocks Overlook, and then I rode PA Routes 409 and 706 through the Endless Mountains region to New Milford.
Somewhere along Route 706, I stopped on a downward sloped shoulder for a photo. As I dismounted, over the bike went. Within minutes, people stopped to help. We righted the bike, I thanked them, and then I continued my ride. I had once again relied on “the kindness of strangers,” and I will pay that kindness forward.
At New Milford, I took a series of pleasantly undulating state routes to Damascus, where I rested and watched Pennsylvanians enjoying the Delaware River. Crossing the bridge into New York, I rolled south on the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway (NY Route 97) toward Port Jervis, which offers expansive views of Pennsylvania and New York.
Along PA Route 872, the author’s Kawasaki Vulcan basks in the beauty of Mother Nature.
As I rumbled back home through New Jersey, I could not help but relive this great Route 6 ride through the Pennsylvania Wilds. I knew the region, its roads, and many other delights would soon be calling me back.
Mary McGee, Grand Marshal of the 2023 Riding into History
Riding into History, the annual vintage motorcycle show held in St. Augustine, Florida, has named Mary McGee the Grand Marshal for the 2023 event with the theme “Get Your Heart Racing – Competition Motorcycles.”
McGee is no stranger to competition herself, having raced her way through the ’60s and ’70s and into the AMA Hall of Fame, the Off Road Motorsports Hall of Fame, and the Trailblazer’s Hall of Fame.
McGee started racing motorcycles in 1960 to help with her sportscar racing skills. People were hesitant to let a woman race, but eventually she was allowed to try out for her FIM license. Once she passed the tryout, there was no going back.
2022 Riding into History Concours d’Elegance, Photo by Dragan Harbov
She became the first woman to have an FIM license in the U.S., the first woman to finish the Baja 1000, and the first woman to compete in road races and motocross in the U.S., among other accomplishments.
Mary McGee racing the Baja 500 in 1975 aboard her Husky 250
Since then, McGee has been an ambassador for the sport, encouraging others, especially young women, to give motorcycles and competitive riding a try. Through speaking at events and being active on her Facebook page, McGee continues to uplift others and shine a light on the sport.
2022 Riding into History Concours d’Elegance, Photo by Dragan Harbov
As Grand Marshal of Riding into History, McGee will participate in the Grand Marshal Tour and Grand Marshal Banquet, where attendees can hear her speak about racing as a woman in a male-dominated sport and hear her stories. She will also participate in the Concours D’Elegance, where attendees can meet and talk to her.
2022 Riding into History Concours d’Elegance, Photo by Dragan Harbov
Riding into History 2023 will take place at the World Golf Village near St. Augustine, Florida, April 14-15. The event attracts hundreds of antique and vintage motorcycles to be displayed around the lake at the center of the World Golf Village. Riding into History is a nonprofit, and proceeds go to K9s for Warriors to provide service dogs for disabled veterans. Spectator admission is $15 per person, and there is no charge for show entrants.
The author and his brother (right) weren’t always this close. But time –and a Harley-Davidson –heals all wounds.
Thirty years after the fact, my older brother still likes to remind everyone that I managed to blow a full-ride scholarship my first semester at college even though I was supposedly “the brains of the family.” I think he enjoys telling the story because, at the time, he believed it was a flaw in my armor, a chip in the chrome plating. But even then, he must have thought I would do well for myself. Otherwise, he might not have made a deal that ultimately brought him to my doorstep with a Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail in the spring of 2018.
Along for the Ride, A Few Lengths Behind
In my office, I have a framed picture of my brother, age 5, and a chubby 2-year-old me. We’re wearing matching striped railroad overalls with thick leg cuffs, holding hands, and I have a big smile. I’ve always looked up to my brother. He was the epitome of cool – as soon as I knew what “cool” meant – even if he wanted nothing to do with his younger, dorky brother as we got older. If anything, that made him cooler.
Even in our teen years, when he was getting in trouble and I was getting straight A’s, I watched him admiringly from behind my textbooks, wishing I were as fearless and willing to take risks.
A few years later, I ended up following him to the local college. With my grades, I could’ve gone somewhere more prestigious, but in my senior year of high school I had started hanging out with my brother and his friends. I was welcomed into his fold. We were friends again, like we hadn’t been since childhood.
I followed him onto the ski slopes – down mogul hills and over cliffs I probably shouldn’t have. When he got into motorcycles, starting with a Yamaha V-Max, I followed him there too. My first bike was a Honda V65 Magna. It’s a miracle I didn’t kill myself, but maybe I just didn’t have it long enough. I only owned the bike a little over a year before I had to sell it.
Here’s where the details get fuzzy. But it was college after all.
In my recollection, around this time my brother offered me a deal: Whoever could get himself a Harley first would then get the other brother one when he could reasonably afford it. The benefit of this deal was each of us eventually having at least one bike, either bought ourselves or gifted to us. But if we were both successful, we would each ultimately have two bikes.
When he bought a Sportster 1200 – and started doing pretty well in the business world – I got excited, especially as I was still screwing around somewhat aimlessly (this was after blowing that scholarship). Certainly my bike wouldn’t be far off.
Then he got a Fat Boy, and I thought, “Wait a minute.”
Turns out, my brother remembered the deal differently.
Deal or No Deal
By his own admission (when I called to tell him about this article), my brother proceeded to customize probably five other Harleys.
Several years and motorcycles later, after a few beers, I asked him about it.
“That wasn’t the deal,” he said. “It was that we both get one for ourselves first and then one for the other brother.”
“What if one of the brothers never ended up being able to afford one for himself to begin with?” I said, still living paycheck to paycheck at the time.
We continued to debate the finer details of a deal made about 15 years earlier. At the end of the night, I didn’t think I convinced him I was right – that kind of victory over an older brother is rare. But in 2018, after selling his business in a lucrative deal, he called me and said, “So, do you want a Jeep or a Harley? But whatever you pick, I get to choose the style.”
Who was I to argue?
I chose the Harley, and a month later, he showed up towing a 2004 Heritage Softail Classic with just over 8,000 miles. Talk about feeling like a kid again. Or at least that carefree 20-something-year-old. It was a dream – and a deal – come true.
Sometimes I wonder if my brother made that original deal because he felt bad that I had to sell my motorcycle. He says he just thought I would hit it big before him and things would’ve gone the other way. Funny how life works.
Whatever his reasons, he came through. These days he doesn’t ride anymore. After selling his business, he moved to Hawaii and traded his jeans and riding jacket for a wetsuit and fins. But after all these years, he is still the epitome of cool.
This article first appeared as the Exhaust Note feature in the October 2022 issue of Rider.
The empty expanses of the rolling, twisty New Jersey County Route 650 beckons riders from the tri-state area and beyond. (Photos by the author)
Greenery, blue skies, and sunshine were bursting forth upon the land like an invitation from Mother Nature to fire up my machine and go forth on a ride on some of my favorite northeastern backroads. I accepted her call and began my cruise a few miles north of the New Jersey border in Pine Island, New York.
Negative depictions of the state in film and television cause some people to think New Jersey is covered in urban sprawl, oil refineries, and clogged “highways jammed with broken heroes on a last chance power drive,” as Bruce Springsteen put it.
Although true for some parts of New Jersey close to the metropolises of New York City and Philadelphia, it’s called the Garden State for a reason. Northwestern New Jersey and northeastern Pennsylvania are blessed with farmland, forests, lakes, rivers, state parks, small towns, country churches, and most importantly, great roads to ride. Those blessings make this loop route a memorable favorite ride.
If you had to guess, would you think this scene was in New Jersey? With farms, forests, and few people, it lives up to the Garden State name.
With the sun warming my face and the sweet fragrance of greenery filling my lungs, I rumbled south on my Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT. I had sold my heavy Vulcan 1700 Voyager, and although I missed all its bells and whistles, I enjoyed the backroad nimbleness of the much lighter 900.
On Glenwood Road (County Road 26) just north of the New Jersey border, the Blue Arrow Farm has an impressive replica of a western Plains Indian village. In New Jersey, Glenwood Road splits, and I turned west onto the rolling, serpentine County Road 565 and stopped at the unique Farm at Glenwood Mountain. Encompassing 170 acres, it sells grass-fed, free-range beef from Scottish Highland cattle, free-range chicken, eggs, turkey, and pork, as well as local honey and organic fruits and vegetables. They also host private farm-to-table dinners and weddings.
A “wooly bully” at the Farm at Glenwood Mountain stares down the author.
Rolling southwest toward Sussex takes you along the border of Wallkill River National Wildlife Refuge, which runs 9 miles along the Wallkill River (one of the few rivers in the U.S. that flows north) and protects 5,100 acres of land. Wildlife abounds in this area, including waterfowl, raptors, coyotes, deer, and bears. Throughout my years cruising through rural New Jersey, I have been lucky enough to spot several bears, as well as red foxes, a coyote, and numerous great blue herons.
Wallkill National Wildlife Refuge is an ideal place for quiet nature walks.
After crossing over State Route 23, I passed The Village Smith and Cycle Works, a motorcycle repair and blacksmith shop where you can get new tires for your motorcycle and new shoes for your horse. Naturalist writer and gadfly Henry David Thoreau said to “simplify, simplify” your life. In rural New Jersey, we say “diversify, diversify” your life to succeed.
A rider and passenger cruising one of New Jersey’s empty country roads on a spring day.
Continuing on 565 to rustic Plains Road, I connected with U.S. Route 206. Cruising north toward Kittatinny Mountain, I saw some interestingly named eateries, such as Jumboland Diner and Firehouse Bagels, which has a real firetruck as part of its decor.
Passing through part of Stokes State Forest, which encompasses more than 16,000 acres, I turned onto County Route 560, sailing toward the Dingmans Ferry Bridge, one of the few remaining privately owned bridges in the United States.
The author’s Vulcan 900 soaks up some rays in Pennsylvania next to the pristine water of the Delaware River and the Dingmans Ferry Bridge.
Opened in 1900, the bridge is 530 feet long and crosses the Delaware River into Pennsylvania. Riding high above the river on a motorcycle over its wooden planks is quite the experience. This rustic bridge lies within the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, which spans 70,000 acres in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. A boat-launching area next to the crossing has views of the bridge.
Two impressive waterfall areas are nearby: Dingmans Falls and Childs Park. Both are worth a stop. Dingmans Falls is reached by a short, flat stroll on a boardwalk through the forest and alongside the stream. Childs Park is more challenging, with stairs going both up and down and a rugged walkway.
The author’s Vulcan rests proudly on one of the many curving roads that grace this rural ramble through New Jersey and Pennsylvania.
After a brief respite by the river, I fired up my machine and took State Route 739 to Silver Lake Road – a winding, rolling traverse through state forest land, lakes, and hidden gated communities. With areas of huge trees and forests lining the road, you get the feeling of motorcycling through primeval times. Route 402 north is much the same but is a faster-paced ride.
Blooming Grove Road (County Road 4004) and Well Road (CR 434), meander past country stores, rural homes, and forests. I felt like I was riding through a simpler era in America. At U.S. Route 6, a scenic byway that traverses the northern part of Pennsylvania, I roared toward Milford, a touristy town with several good restaurants.
The stone edifice of the St. John Neumann/Good Shepherd Parish stands stoically in the aptly named Lords Valley, Pennsylvania.
After a late lunch at the Apple Valley Restaurant, I cruised across the modern Milford-Montague Toll Bridge with great views of the river back to Jersey. County Route 650 serpentines back through Stokes State Forest, which is a favorite of riders who love to challenge its rolling curves or just cruise along serenely. Traveling Routes 519 and 23 to Sussex, I headed northeast on State Route 284 to Bassetts Bridge Road, Lake Wallkill Road, and Glenwood Mountain Road.
Riders returning from the Pennsylvania/New Jersey hinterlands while appreciating the roadside scenery.
As my Vulcan weaved through the countryside to Routes 565/517 and back to Pine Island, I reflected on what an enjoyable ride it had been. It was one I was destined to repeat.
Is this 2022 Harley-Davidson XL883 Sportster one of that last air-cooled Evos? (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)
Few motorcycle brands are as legendary as Harley-Davidson. You won’t find the Hells Angels on Gold Wings or Panigales, after all. Within the brand, the Evolution (Evo) Sportster is truly iconic.
Born in 1957, XL Sportsters were the smaller performance models for more spirited riders. Originally equipped with 883cc and 1,000cc Ironhead engines, they were updated in 1986 to the Evo that produces the sound that many associate with Harley.
1957 Harley-Davidson XL Sportster (Photo by Jeff Bowles, lic. CC-A 2.0 G)
Development on the engines started during the notorious AMF years in the 1970s, and the original Evo was a 1,340cc variant, which replaced the aging Shovelhead in 1984. They are air-cooled with push rods, overhead valves, and enough vibration to remind you that it’s no Japanese cruiser. There’s nothing quite like an Evo.
The 1986 Sportsters got 883cc and 1,100cc Evo engines that hardly changed over the next 36 years. The 1,100cc Evo got bumped up to 1,200cc in 1988, fuel injection was added in 2006, and a 5-speed transmission replaced the 4-speed in 1991. And that’s about it. We live in a very different world today where European emissions standards are strangling anything that runs on gas.
Harley’s old-school Evo rumblers just aren’t clean enough, so a new breed of Sportsters is taking their place. The Sportster S and Nightster (a recycled Evo Sportster name) have the latest Revolution Max engines first seen on the Pan America adventure bike, while the Milwaukee-Eight powers the Softail and Touring models.
2021 Harley-Davidson Sportster S (Photo courtesy Harley-Davidson)
The Revolution Max is a liquid-cooled V-twin with a lot more power, but it lacks the character of the admittedly obsolete Evos. Harley has finally axed the last two traditional Sportsters – the Iron 883 and Forty-Eight (1200) – with production slated to end in 2023. They were discontinued in Europe in 2020 due to Euro 5 regulations.
Evo Sportsters have a cult following for a reason – they have infinite character. Riding an Iron 883 in 2022 is similar to riding its 1957 counterpart, which is truly special. They’re also incredibly customizable – you can build an entire Sportster from scratch with aftermarket parts. It’s a tinkerer’s dream, and few Sportsters end up alike. So many have been punched out of the factory that they’ll seemingly live on forever in the preowned market.
Are there any equivalents from other brands? Can you buy a new bike that’s comparably old-school? You certainly can, and we’ll start with a brand that’s even more old-school than Harley.
Royal Enfield
1951 Royal Enfield Bullet 350 (Photo courtesy Bonhams)
Harley-Davidson was founded in 1903, but Royal Enfield started in 1901. In fact, it’s the oldest motorcycle brand with continuous production. Originally an English company, it produced a model as iconic as any Sportster: the Bullet. Launch in 1948, it beats the Sportster as the oldest motorcycle design in history. Both the Bullet and Royal Enfield names come from the same place, as the original company was a subcontractor to the Royal Small Arms Factory in Enfield, London, which produced military rifles and swords.
2002 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 (Photo by Samihasib, lic. CC-A 2.0 G)
Like Harley, Royal Enfields were instrumental in World War II, used extensively by the British Army and Royal Air Force. The Indian Army began using Royal Enfield Bullets in the late 1940s and opened a factory in Madras. By 1955, 350cc bullets were sent as kits to Indian factories and production of complete motorcycles soon followed under license. The legendary 1955 Indian Bullet remained relatively unchanged, unlinking itself from the British counterparts that were updated in the late 1950s.
2021 Royal Enfield Meteor 350 (Photo courtesy Royal Enfield)
The British company fell into disarray in the early 1960s and was shut down by 1970, but India’s arm endured and produced the 1955 Bullet for domestic riders. Success was not infinite, as superior Japanese bikes almost wiped out the brand in the 1990s. India’s Eicher Motors bought the near-bankrupt company, and the long-running Bullet received significant quality improvements, while additional models were also developed.
2022 Royal Enfield Classic 350 (Photo courtesy Royal Enfield)
Today, there are two primary engine displacements – 350cc Singles and 650cc Twins. Smaller than the outgoing Evo engines but with no less character. All have fuel injection and emissions equipment to pass Western regulations. In fact, the Royal Enfield Meteor 350 became the best-selling 125cc-and-above motorcycle in the U.K. In the American market, the Bullet name was recently dropped in favor of the Classic (and Meteor) 350, while the Continental and INT 650s, Scram 411, and Himalayan 411 adventure bike are relatively new models.
Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 (Photo by the author)
All of them remain old-school and true to their roots, and you won’t find anything closer to bikes from the 1950s and 1960s. I dare say the Classic 350 is even more “vintage” than the Sportsters, while the new 650cc parallel-Twins are classically designed as well. Royal Enfields are designed in England and built in a state-of-the-art factory in India, and they’re half the price (or less) of new Sportsters. For old-school enthusiasts, they’re tough to fault.
BSA and Norton
BSA stands for Birmingham Small Arms Company, which began manufacturing firearms in the 1860s. in 1905, a bicycle with a small Minerva engine was built and motorcycle production became inevitable. The versatility of BSA was very evident during World War II when 67 factories supplied millions of rifles and machine guns, along with 126,000 M20 motorcycles.
By 1950, BSA was the largest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. From 1938 to 1963, BSA’s Gold Star became an icon for the brand and was among the fastest bikes in the 1950s. It was called “Gold Star” after a Gold Star badge was awarded to Wal Handley in 1936 for running the Brooklands racing circuit at over 100 mph on a BSA Empire Star. Gold Star bikes had single-cylinder, 4-stroke engines in 350cc or 500cc displacements, and each came with dynamometer results to confirm horsepower.
BSA merged with Triumph and Norton to form Norton-Villiers-Triumph in a desperate attempt to save all three in the 1970s, but none could overcome the rising dominance of Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha. Triumph made a successful comeback in the 1990s with models reentering the U.S. market in 1995. The rights to Norton were bought in 2008, and the famous Commando was again produced in England, but the company fell into bankruptcy in 2020.
2023 Norton Commando 961 (Photo courtesy Norton)
India’s TVS Motor Company subsequently bought Norton, and expensive hand-built performance bikes are now being produced. A pair of 2023 retro Commando models were also just announced, the 961 SP and 961 CR (the latter with clip-ons), which follow the very limited 2019 Commandos. Prices are high, starting at nearly $19,000, and the 961cc parallel-Twin only pushes out 76.8 hp. That leaves BSA, which is currently under Indian ownership (sound familiar?) and reintroducing the Gold Star.
2022 BSA Gold Star (Photo courtesy BSA)
The 2022 Gold Star has a 652cc single-cylinder engine that provides old-school character as thumpers tend to do. It makes 45 hp and can reportedly do the ton (100 mph), which is the same as the original 500cc model. Thankfully, the bike remains basic without ride modes, other electronics, or a fancy digital display. Like the 650cc Royal Enfields and even the new Commando, there are twin analog gauges for us Luddites. It’s ultimately a modern-ish bike with an old look and feel (like contemporary Triumphs) and certainly a very classic badge.
There are some niche brands selling old-school designs that are genuinely intriguing. Janus Motorcycles is an American company based in Indiana, but it doesn’t have a historic pedigree. These are simply new bikes with old-school charm. There are three models, but the Halcyon 450 has the biggest engine (445cc) and is the one to get. It reminds me of a 1920s James Flat Tank 750, minus the V-twin, and the single-cylinder thumper is sure to have character. Most onlookers will also think it’s a 100-year-old antique. With a top speed of 90 mph, it’s viable for highway rides, although I’d keep them short. The bikes are only available in the U.S. (but not California), and prices start at $14,995 for the Halcyon 450.
U.K.-based Wardill Motorcycles is similar to Janus, but it has a history going back to 1927. The modern incarnation is owned by Mark Wardill, grandson of the original designer, so there’s direct family involvement as well. The new Wardill 4 is based on the 1927 Wardill 3, which was revolutionary at the time with a patented 2-stroke supercharged engine (Kawasaki’s H2 wasn’t the first).
Wardill 4 Prototype with Mark Wardill (Photo courtesy Wardill Motorcycles)
Although a lot of positive attention was received, Wardill only produced prototypes and was soon forgotten. The Wardill 4 looks even older than the Janus Halcyon 450, with triangular girder forks, a longer tank, ridged frame, and 250cc single-cylinder engine. It puts out a paltry 17.3 hp but will allegedly hit a top speed of 90 mph. There are also drum brakes front and rear, so those looking for something old-school have struck oil with this one.
Brough Superior is a French brand with an English history going back to 1919. This was a luxury brand through and through, not unlike Duesenberg or Rolls-Royce, and was a favorite of Thomas Edward Lawrence, aka Lawrence of Arabia. In fact, he died riding one in 1932 (model GW 2275). The brand ceased production in 1940 to focus on the war effort and was unable to resume operations afterward.
2021 Brough Superior Lawrence (Photo courtesy Brough Superior)
It was founded by visionary George Brough and recently revived by Thierry Henriette, and the first new model based on the famous SS100 from 1924 was unveiled at the EICMA show in Milan in 2013. There are several models to choose from today, from the SS100 to the Lawrence Original, and all are hand-built luxury bikes with price tags to match. They really capture the early style of the originals while employing state-of-the-art engineering throughout. The 997cc V-twin of the new SS100 looks a lot like what Indian has in the Scout models, but these are very different beasts. It’s respectable in the power department, with 102 hp and 64 lb-ft of torque.
Triumph and Kawasaki
Technically, all the bikes mentioned are modern classics, but brands like Royal Enfield and BSA maintain classic designs that compare well to the Evo Harleys. Bigger, more popular brands have capitalized on this vintage trend as well with thoroughly modern, retro-styled bikes. Triumph is the most recognized with the 1960s-inspired Bonneville line. Named after the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah, the original model launched in 1959 and had a 650cc parallel-Twin, while later models were upgraded to 750cc.
2023 Triumph Bonneville T100 in Meriden Blue (Photo courtesy Triumph)
Although shuttered in the 1970s, Triumph made a triumphant return in the 1990s. Yes, pun intended. Today’s Bonnevilles look very similar to the mid-century originals but are modern, high-performance machines. The 1990s bikes started with 800cc parallel-Twins, later upgraded to 865cc, and today there are speedy 900cc and 1,200cc models. Performance is superior to Harley Sportsters, but that Harley character is missing with the smooth liquid-cooled engines. Bonnevilles have better starting prices than Sportsters, however, so enthusiasts can get a retro British thrill with money left over for accessories.
2023 Kawasaki W800 (Photo courtesy Kawasaki)
Triumph isn’t the only brand pushing out modern classics. Kawasaki has the W800, based on the 1966 650cc W1 (and even the 1949 BSA A7), Moto Guzzi has the 850cc V7, based on the 1971 V7 Sport, and Ducati has the Scrambler, loosely based on the 1962-1976 models. And so on. However, when comparing modern bikes to Harley, one brand can’t be overlooked.
Indian Motorcycle
Harley and Indian were the two great American brands during the first half of the 20th century. The first Indian prototype was finished in May 1901, beating Harley by a couple of years. Public sales began in 1902, and a year later, Indian’s Chief Engineer Oscar Hedstrom set a motorcycle speed record at 56 mph.
1953 Indian Chief 80 (Photo courtesy Mecum)
The first V-twin debuted in 1905 as a factory racer and hit production models in 1907, and Indian was producing 32,000 bikes annually by 1913. During World War I, the company focused on the war effort and exhausted its civilian supply, which drained inventory and forced many dealers to abandon them. Indian never fully recovered, and Harley became the bigger, more popular brand. The Scout and Chief V-Twin models, introduced in the early 1920s, are iconic and live on today as modern interpretations. Competition and mismanagement led to Indian’s demise in 1953, leaving Harley as the primary U.S. motorcycle manufacturer, but the brand came back a couple of times in the late 1990s and early 2000s, only to repeatedly falter.
In 2011, Polaris acquired Indian and successfully revived the brand. There’s a smorgasbord of models today, including the performance-oriented, flat-track inspired FTR 1200. The Scout models are the closest to Harley’s Evo Sportsters but equipped with modern, more powerful liquid-cooled V-Twins. The new Revolution Max Sportsters are now appropriate comparisons. Under Polaris, Indian has become a modern performance-oriented motorcycle manufacturer, but the bikes still provide an old-school, nostalgic ride thanks to classic looks and outstanding V-Twins.
Evo Sportster: The King is Dead, Long Live the King
Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200 (Photo by the author)
This is not an exhaustive list of Evo Sportster alternatives, but it demonstrates a broad commitment to classic designs for those of us that prefer vintage-inspired rides without lots of angled plastic, bleeding-edge technology, and race-ready performance. Traditional Sportsters are a rare breed, a throwback to the past, but they’re certainly not alone. Although they’re soon to be dead, new kings will rise. Royal Enfield, BSA, Moto Guzzi, Triumph, Norton, and even Kawasaki remind us that a host of brands have very interesting histories and aren’t ready to close the door on vintage models. And that’s a very good thing.
A lone rider cruises up to the highlands stretch of Arkansas Highway 16.
For motorcyclists, Arkansas Highway 16 is one of the top highways in the Ozarks that has the added virtue of being one of the least used highways in the state. It’s mostly known to local riders and some savvy visitors but is overlooked by most travelers because it doesn’t lead anywhere in particular.
Another reason it’s mostly unknown is that it doesn’t have a cool moniker like the “Pig Trail” section of Arkansas Highway 23. So I propose that the 160-mile stretch from Fayetteville to Clinton henceforth be known as the “Ozarks Scenic Highlands Skyway.”
Arkansas Highway 16: ‘Your last route of choice’…by car at least
Highway 16 begins in the northeastern part of Arkansas at the Oklahoma border and runs southeasterly across about two-thirds of the width of the state. From Fayetteville to Greers Ferry, it winds from one little town to another through small communities with unique names like Swain, Nail, Deer, Lurton, Witts Springs, and my personal favorite, Ben Hur.
If you were traveling by car from Fayetteville to Greers Ferry, Highway 16 would be your last route of choice. That’s exactly what makes it fantastic for riders. From Fayetteville, the ride east on Highway 16 out of town is fairly pedestrian, but once you get past Elkins, the road parallels the upper portion of the 710-mile White River.
The highway becomes more serpentine as it climbs into the highlands of the Ozarks. At Brashears, Highway 16 intersects the Pig Trail Scenic Byway section of Highway 23 for about 4 miles until Hawkins Hollow and becomes very twisty.
Located near the junction with the Pig Trail Scenic Byway, the Pig Trail Bypass Country Cafe serves a mean “Hooshburger.”
A look at the Arkansas State Highway map reveals that the highway has more than enough squiggly lines to delight the sport rider. And it has more than enough drop-dead gorgeous scenery to delight the cruising rider.
Riding high through the Ozark Mountains, Arkansas Highway 16 winds its way through beautiful scenery full of dense forests and lush pastures.
Just shy of 10 miles later at Boston, Highway 16 breaks out on the ridge tops and stays up there. The highway then defines what I call the “Ozarks Divide.” Creeks and rivers on the south side of the highway flow into the Arkansas River while those on the north side flow into the White River. The result of being up on the ridges on Highway 16 is that you often have spectacular vistas and views on both sides of the road at the same time – thus my suggestion to call it the Ozarks Scenic Highlands Skyway.
Views like this are why the author think Arkansas Highway 16 should be called the Ozarks Scenic Highlands Skyway.
Arkansas Highway 16: Watch for Deer…and Ben Hur?
The 161-mile ride from Fayetteville to Clinton takes up to four hours, depending on how many stops you make. But if you don’t stop along the way, you’ll miss out on interesting experiences with the locals in those unique places with unique names.
For example, there’s a tiny spot on Highway 16 called Fallsville. At the least, I like the town for the irony of its name as a stop on a top-tier motorcycling road, considering it contains a four-letter word for riders if there ever was one. Fallsville is located at the western junction of Highway 16 and Arkansas Highway 21, and despite the odd name, it’s a great spot for a break. Besides the wonderful roads, it’s places like Fallsville that make the Ozarks marvelous for riders who want to experience the local culture.
If you’re inclined to take a hike (not a good idea in July or August) you can go to Glory Hole Falls, 5.7 miles northeast of Fallsville on Highway 16/21. It’s beautiful, especially when the water is flowing fast. The hike is a mile each way, downhill to the falls and uphill on the way back.
Known as the “Glory Hole,” after a rainstorm, water rushes down the hillside from above and creates a beautiful waterfall. Photo by J.P. Bell.
Twenty miles east of Fallsville (and about 11 miles past where Highway 16 splits off Highway 21) is a veritable metropolis compared to Fallsville. The town of Deer has one convenience store and a public school whose mascot is cleverly named the Antlers. Only in the Ozarks!
A couple of miles past Deer, Highway 16 joins Arkansas Highway 7 heading south, where the roads occupy the same right-of-way and eventually join Arkansas Highway 123. This trifecta of outstanding Arkansas highways – 7, 16, and 123 – are all dynamite roads. Highway 7 is revered as “Scenic 7.” Highway 123, like 16, is a lesser-known road that should be on every rider’s bucket list.
Freelance writer Teri Conrad takes a break at the junction of Arkansas highways 16 and 27. There are no bad riding roads in this area.
The roads go their separate ways at Sand Gap – formerly Grand Gap and Pelsor – where you’ll find the old-time Hankins Country Store. During peak riding season, hang around a while and you’re bound to meet riders from all over the country.
Don Hankins ran the 1922-era Hankins Country Store in Pelsor for years. It recently reopened under new ownership.
As much as I like Deer, my favorite place name along the way has got to be the dot on the map called Ben Hur, which has no store or businesses. It’s just a tiny community with a great name. According to an article in the Arkansas Times, the town was named in honor of actor Charlton Heston, presumably a nod to his 1959 movie of the same name. In Heston’s twilight years, he reportedly asked the town fathers to consider renaming it “Cold Dead Hand” but to no avail.
Between Fayetteville and Clinton, Arkansas Highway 16 intersects several other fantastic state highways, including 7, 21, 23, 27, and 123.
There are dirt roads winding off across the area on either side of Highway 16. One of my favorite routes is the Hurricane Wilderness Ramble, which begins in Deer. These are wonderful roads for ADV riders. But regardless of what you ride, you will enjoy traipsing across this twisty Ozarks Scenic Highlands Skyway.
With a lineup of ADV bikes that ranges from the entry-level 390 Adventure to the high-performance, 160-hp 1290 Super Adventure R, KTM knows adventure. The last KTM Adventure Rider Rally was held in Breckenridge, Colorado, in 2019. After a two-year hiatus due to Covid, the popular on/off-road rally returns this September in Donnelly, Idaho. The following is the official press release from KTM.
KTM North America, Inc. has announced that the KTM Adventure Rider Rally is back on the calendar for 2022 with an entirely new format for participants to enjoy. One of the oldest and most popular events on the global KTM Adventure Rally calendar, the 17th running of this special event will welcome KTM riders from every part of the globe to experience the ultimate adventure September 16-18 at the picturesque Tamarack Resort in Donnelly, Idaho.
2022 KTM 1290 Super Adventure R (Photo by Kevin Wing)
Featuring an all-new format, this year’s event will offer a designated loop for each day of riding, which includes options for all skill levels and a common lunch/gas spot supported by KTM. Participants will have a unique opportunity to experience first-hand the future of KTM Adventure in the presence of Red Bull KTM Factory Racing’s Dakar Rally Champion Kevin Benavides and KTM ambassador Chris Birch, as well as the chance to ride alongside both offroad experts – and other notable names – throughout the event.
To ensure that everyone has a fun and safe rally, participants will ride in groups of 2-4 people each day. Adventurers can sign up ahead of time as a pre-determined group and individual self-navigators will be teamed up on-site with a rider/group of the same skill level. All groups must have a SPOT device and GPS devices.
Back by popular demand, a limited number of participants will have the opportunity to do an adventure-style camp out. The ride will be led by KTM’s Chris Fillmore for the second year and the camping has been extended by a day to allow campers to experience this true adventure.
As always, the KTM Adventure Rider Rally is designed for KTM Adventure and Enduro owners but is open to all brands of street legal motorcycles. KTM Ride Orange Street Demos will take place on Thursday to allow all participants the opportunity to participate in all rides on Friday and Saturday.
There will also be Riding Technique and Technical Riding Seminars available for those who wish to participate, as well as plenty of Adventure vendors on-site. Participants will receive an event t-shirt and hat, along with a pre-event dinner on Thursday, Breakfast on Friday – Sunday, as well as an Awards Dinner on Saturday evening.
For more information or to register for the KTM Adventure Rider Rally in Donnelly, Idaho, visit the official page.
Brady Smith Sr. and Jr., from Joplin, Missouri, winners of the Full Restoration 1959 Super Cub-Milestone Honda Award.
The Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club of America (VJMC) recently held its annual national motorcycle rally in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, in the heart of the Ozark Mountains. This year’s VJMC national rally, which took place June 23-25, celebrated the club’s 45th anniversary. More than 160 club members enjoyed three days of riding, bike shows, and camaraderie with their vintage Japanese motorcycles.
“This club has been successful for 45 years because it brings people and vintage Japanese bikes together for fun, friendship, and new riding experiences,” said Tom Kolenko, President of VJMC. “We have a great vintage community that celebrates the past while riding into the future.”
Yamaha XS650
Founded in 1977, VJMC is the premier worldwide club dedicated to the preservation, restoration, and enjoyment of vintage Japanese motorcycles (20 years or older) and the promotion of the sport of motorcycling. The VJMC hallmark is “participation at all levels and to have fun” – for all motorcycle enthusiasts young and old.
Membership in the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club of America is $35 per year and includes a full-color 64+ page magazine printed six times per year, rides, rallies, and shows at local, regional, and national events. The VJMC has over 3,300 members and is a 100% volunteer-based, nonprofit club.
For more information visit VJMC.org or call (763) 420-7829.
Small-displacement Honda SLs, Kink n Go, and Honda generator 2.
Americade, the largest touring rally in the U.S., was held June 7-11 in Lake George, New York. (You can read our 2021 Americade Rally Report here.) The event was a huge success, with tens of thousands of attendees, demo rides from eight major motorcycle manufacturers, an enormous vendor expo, guided and self-guided rides, and entertainment. The organizers are already planning for next year’s rally, and they recently issued the following press release announcing new dates.
Americade 2023 will take place one week earlier than normal, May 30-June 3, starting the Tuesday after Memorial Day. Americade 2023 will celebrate a historic milestone, its 40th event, featuring a number of special additional live music, entertainment, and motorcycle attractions.
“Laconia will be celebrating a big milestone too, their 100th, next year,” said Christian Dutcher, Americade’s Director, “and having two major events overlapping during special years doesn’t make any sense. So, we’re going to slide Americade earlier to give each event a little elbow room.”
Americade 2022 featured the most factory demos of any event in the U.S. and in 2023 Americade will likely feature even more. Kim Knupp, National Events Manager for Yamaha said, “This is exciting news. It’s a great move for Americade and will increase attendance. It opens up opportunities for those who want to go to both events but currently can’t.”
Additionally, national brand vendors fully support the move as well. “I support it 100%,” says Melissa Auclair, of Mustang Motorcycle Seats. “Not only will it benefit the vendors, but it will also benefit the customers.”
Americade 2023 kicks-off in full May 30 (May 29 pre-registered attendees).
